This is the third in a series of how-to articles detailing my 2012 DH bike build, the Santa Cruz V-10.

Trimming Brake Hoses

I tend to save the brake hoses until last, cutting them after the fittings are set at the correct angle and the exact position of the hose on the frame has been established. Cutting hoses is a one time deal. Once a hose is too short, you’re outta luck, so do it right the first time. Make sure all the lines are secure and that there are no kinks in the places where they have movement, such as at the head tube and suspension.

It’s also a good idea to trim the ends off cable ties as close to the connection as possible. Doing so leaves behind a smooth surface rather than a jagged edge which can catch on clothing, or worse, yourself. Use a sharp blade to carefully remove the excess off the cable tie.

So after all the brake lines are tied down, I get to the business of trimming the lines. Avid makes it very easy with some new tools that were introduced at Interbike this year. I used Avid’s pro bleed kit (along with extra compression fittings, nuts, and barbs) along with two cool new tools that make life way easier: the hand-held hose cutter and barb-end driver.

First, I established how much hose I needed to cut by removing the hose from the lever end and then marking the hose where I felt it needed to be cut. For the front wheel it is a simple matter of making sure that when the suspension is fully extended, the brake cable doesn’t tug or interfere with the other cables’ movements. For the rear brake, I made sure that when the steering is in full lock left or right, the hose did not pull.

On the XO brakes, an 11mm wrench and the supplied crowfoot (8mm) tool were used to remove the lines. After that, I simply cut the hose using the Avid hose cutter (leaving an amazingly clean cut) and then installed the new compression nut, compression fitting, and barb, in that order (not forgetting to toss on the boot first). The barb fitting tool made short work of installing the barb end. Once that was done, I then reinstalled the hose (for further details see this post). Finally, I bled the hoses. This video will help with that:

Once the hoses are bled, you can get to finishing off the bike and those little details such as cable stops and ties. I use the supplied Avid cable joints: they are durable and clean looking. Just be sure that you test spin the wheels to make sure the CPS hardware and calipers are lined up with the wheels. Finally, double check to make sure the front and rear wheels are buttoned up.

Stay tuned for my final Santa Cruz V-10 build article on dialing in the cockpit.

Who is Twenty6? I met with owner Tyler Jarosz at Interbike and, judging by our conversation, he is highly passionate about riding and his products definitely reflect that. The company is based in Bozeman, Montana, surrounded by some of the best biking in the country which clearly influences Twenty6 designs.

From pedals to brake levers, everything from Twenty6 has design appeal as well as function. After picking up my pimped-out package of the new Predator pedals, F1 stem, and Dualie levers, I was stoked to get back home and install these parts. Looking at the gear from Tyler, you can truly see the level of his CNC skills.

Predator Pedals

The Predator pedals have seen significant changes over the previous model (the Prerunner). For one thing, the body has been increased in size, with a bit more meat towards the outboard of the pedal. Not only did the body size get larger, but the pedal’s profile has actually changed with a more pronounced concave shape that provides better pin placement and traction. Speaking of the pins, Tyler explained to me the importance of his pins: these are not run-of-the-mill hex pins… they are engineered to have a break-away point to prevent damage or pull through.

The axle features an Enduro bearing near the axle root and a turcite bushing at the other end. Making sure everything stays mostly clean and running smooth, a Quad O-ring is designed to keep the crap out and provides a measure of pedal resistance (i.e. you can control the spin of the pedal). To keep the weight down, you have the option of either a titanium axle or a chromoly one. At a weight of 320 grams (ti axle) or 390 grams (chromoly), both options are very light for their size.

F1 Stem

The F1 Stem has been revised for this year with a one-piece mount to the upper crown while still keeping the same front cap. The added support stiffens the stem, preventing possible bending when you do case it, and it gives the rider more feedback. The stem is offered in two lengths with a choice of 40/45mm or 50/55mm and weighs ±150 grams, slightly heavier than the previous model as a result of the stiffer design. The F1 has a clamp diameter of 31.8 only, so installing your older 25.4 bar won’t work here. It mounts easily to any 4 bolt direct mount fork.

Dualie Levers

Small parts like a brake lever can easily be missed and taken for granted, but Tyler went to the trouble of coming up with some great levers for many a brake, including the Avid Codes that I reviewed earlier this year. The Dualie levers are machined from billet 6061 T6 aluminum and weigh about 50 grams (depending on the model). The attention to detail that went into the two finger design is impressive, with the machining both reducing weight and enhancing grip.

Installation

I had an easy time installing the new gear on my bike. The most work went into installing the levers on the Codes because you have to make sure that you engage the spring and carefully swap out the reach adjuster. A tip here would be to apply a bit of grease to the small hole where the spring and detent ball is installed then carefully slide the adjuster nut sideways, ensuring the detent ball stays put (use a toothpick or a slender tool to hold in the ball). The pedals and stem installations were no-brainers. The stem is a plug and play affair with a very straightforward install – just remember to torque everything down evenly (6Nm).

Predator Test

I used both the Predators and F1 stem on my Opus Nelson and the Dualie levers on my Banshee Legend, and they work great! The pedals had excellent grip, with no issues. My foot felt firm and balanced on the pedal and the large platform worked well even when it got really messy. The pin pattern on the Predator worked great at holding the shoe yet allowing me to rotate my foot without too much resistance when I needed to use some body English. You would think that the large pedal would strike every rock in sight (and I thought that too), but that was not the case. I make it a point to keep my feet at the 3 and 9 o’clock position when traveling through rock gardens and rock drops (places that will destroy most pedals if you’re not paying attention). Even so, I still thought that these would strike. They didn’t though… as long as I was upright. Even in the berms I was paying attention to see if I was close to striking, but I had no issues. The very thin profile of the pedal keeps it away from most everything, though I did strike a few times on an exceptionally large boulder section aptly named “The Coffin” at Blue Mountain.

To keep the pedals fresh, Tyler has an extensive choice of replacement pins, and he even has a repair kit available.

F1 Stem Test

The F1 stem worked well, holding the bar firmly in place without even a hint of creaking. Even after going down hard on a few occasions, I was impressed to see that the bar and stem remained perfectly aligned without a hint of movement or bending.

Dualie Test

I instantly loved how the Dualie levers felt over the stock Code levers. They provide a definite improvement in feel without any hint of slipping: I never had to use a second finger to stop the bike. Speaking of feel, the machining on the levers grab the finger nicely, even with wet gloves on. All this equates to a better, more confident braking experience with the Dualie levers. If you are looking for a major upgrade on your levers, look no further.

Bottom Line

All in all, Tyler’s Twenty6 products are definitely worth checking out. They easily offer the most color choices around! So what will all these cost? For the Predator Ti pedal you’re looking at $269 – $289 (white). The F1 stem comes in at $129 – $139 (white) and the levers are priced at $74 – $79 (white). Some of these parts may be a bit on the pricy side of things, but these are not your run-of-the-mill components!

I would like to thank Twenty6 for sending the gear down for review.

Interbike is a fascinating place, and if you ever get the chance to stroll through the booths you will find tons of fascinating products. Jeff and I were both really impressed with some of the things we saw, and at other times we were thoroughly unimpressed by some of the downright-ridiculous designs. We made sure to swing by most of our usual stops to chat with folks such as e*thirteen, Fox, iXS, Spank, SRAM, Shimano, Intense, Santa Cruz, Osprey, THE, and Easton. Interbike is seriously the greatest when it comes to getting a sneak peak at the latest gear and talking with your favorite riders.

e*thirteen

One of my first stops was at the e*thirteen booth. It’s hard to believe you can improve on such a great crank, but e*thirteen managed to squeeze 60 grams out of last year’s design by using an alloy axle and machining a little bit off the spider here and there. Not only did the crank just go through a weight reduction, but they also managed to change up the bottom bracket, making it more durable and easier to install.

Along with the cranks, there are two clever new pedals from e*thirteen: the LG1+ and LG1R. The pedals feature an alloy body, plates that attach to the pedal, and user-selectable 4mm or 7mm pins. The LG1R has titanium spindles and pins while the LG1+ features chromoly. The difference in weight between the two pedals is 88 grams (380g and 468g, respectively).

Race Face

Hard Goods

Race Face was at the show, but you had to look really hard to find their booth. Essentially the hard goods line-up has changed ever so slightly with the introduction of the Chester cranks. The Chester is basically Race Face’s entry-level DH crank, the Respond is their mid-level, and the Atlas is their top-tier DH crank.

Race Face is also getting ready to launch the SIXC, which is a new DH crank modified with a longer-than-average axle. The SIXC cranks will be lighter than the new XO DH coming out from SRAM and the rubber boots are a nice addition meant to save the crank ends from damage.

Soft Goods

I spent some time talking with Wendy from Race Face and she was proud to show off some of the clothing and protection that will be offered for next year. It looks like the trend is toward simple colors with large contrasting logos and neat argyle prints (kind of like the Singletracks jersey). Needless to say, Wendy (who also does the design work) has done a great job at making gear that will look cool for both men and women.

The new trend in MTB armor is softer, more flexible pieces and Race Face is on the ball with their Flank line-up. This soft wrap-around leg armor features a ton of excellent elements such as D3O on the impact points of the knee and shin and a Terry Cloth liner.

Stay tuned for more from RaceFace in the near future.

Niterider

A brilliant example of lighting at Interbike was Niterider. With all their lights out on display, this booth really was a beacon in a sea of bike gear. Niterider’s best and brightest, the Pro 3000 LED, uses 6 large Cree LEDs and a massive Li-Ion battery; the whole package retails for less than $700. Along with the top model, Niterider has a light for just about every budget, including both rechargeable and non-rechargeable units. I had a chance to talk with Tom, the founder of Niterider, and it seemed that we both shared the same passion for good lighting systems and the conviction that there really weren’t any good bike lights available when Niterider started out.

FSA

FSA was displaying all of their 2012 gear nearby and the smell of high quality, nicely-finished carbon saturated the booth. The K-Force and SL-K gear for the XC-Trail rider may be a good idea for those looking to save some weight. I really appreciated the extensive use of uni-directional carbon in the products that were on display. The cranks feature a spine of aluminum to keep things stiff along with the monocoque structure that you see. With other carbon goodies in the form of bars, seat posts and stems, FSA was out to impress.

Ritchey 29er

Despite not being a big 29er fan, I just had to stop and stare a while at this beautiful 29er by Ritchey. For one thing, I owned one way back in the day that was made by Tom Ritchey himself, and my bike had the same “America F*$@ ya” paint job. I kinda miss that bike, and this beautiful ride, although very modern, still has that classic look to it. I found myself wishing I had the cash to pick one up.

From the integrated seat post clamp, to the adjustable rear dropouts that allow you to go either singlespeed or geared, to the highly-polished look, this bike really is a stunner. It’s a steel frame and has a projected cost of $999 (frame only). Depending how you build it up, you can get weights down to 21lbs for a single or 23lbs if you’re going with gears.

THE

THE was showing off their new colors for this year’s T2, along with some cool armor and gear. There’s a decent mix of mild to wild color schemes for you.

Loaded Precision

Loaded Precision was showing off a few new components for this year with their signature series wheels and pedals. For those of you who are interested, they will have a 150mm rear axle available soon in addition to all the present wheel configurations… and in a variety of colors to really pimp your bike out. Anthony from Loaded also mentioned the growing number of products in their XC line-up, including some fire-red 29er wheels!

Topeak

Topeak was there showing off their vast array of pumps and gear. Some interesting additions included a new chain tool called the Link Meister which is geared toward serious users and shops. The head on the Link Meister adjusts so that you can get the pins out perfectly straight without messing things up, thanks to an adjustable shoulder which cradles the chain in the link separator. A really robust set of mud guards for suspension bikes caught Jeff’s eye as well as mine. It may have been sheer fascination about the whole idea, but I have to say they looked pretty sweet. I was thinking about tossing a pair on my DH bike…

For the Apple fanboys and fangirls out there, Topeak showed an iPhone 4 (and now iPhone 4S) compatible stem mount. Unlike the other iPhone handlebar mounts we’ve seen and used, this one put the phone front and center and leaves a cut-out for the phone’s camera. Not only can you use your iPhone as a GPS/cycling computer, now you can use it as a POV camera. Brilliant!

Randomness

When you go to Interbike, you will inevitably come across some oddities along with all the cool ideas. Below is one such product in the making (which type is it? that’s up to you). Still a prototype, this 4-wheeled pedal bike features full independent suspension using Rock Shox Monarchs. As Jeff and I chatted with the owners, we did see many places were weight could be removed. Presently this bike is pushing over 50lbs.

Azonic

Azonic proudly displayed the Outlaw wheels, which have been their staple product for many years and are now available in a 29er version and in an expanded color line. Along with that were bars and stems in the same color patterns for that perfect match.

Azonic has partnered up with O’neal to produce some cool looking threads and skid lids. Their focus seems to be all about color and a mix of retro patterns with modern graphics.

Twenty6

Before the show started, I got an invitation to visit Twenty6. Twenty6 is a small, high tech company that machines kick ass gear. Not only is the gear super slick, but they also have some rich color choices.

Below is just a sample of different color options. I’ll have a review written up soon on the Predator pedals, so stay tuned!

Pro Riders

Remember when I mentioned that Interbike offers access to celebrity riders? Well, great riders like Matt Hunter and Darren Berrecloth were at the iXS booth for a while signing posters and chatting it up.

I even got to spend a little while chatting with Matt. Having limited time, I just had to ask him how he did a particular jump in Seasons where he boosted off a kicker into a loose wall of dirt… it looked absolutely crazy! I got him to talk about how he felt going into it for the first time. It turns out a mix of confidence and fear with a bunch of adrenaline thrown in motivated him. I was really impressed to hear that he is human like the rest of us. Just in case you’re wondering, you can meet Matt in Whistler yourself during the summer months at the Summer Gravity Camp.

iXS

Speaking of iXS, they had a great line up of new 2012 gear on display. With a huge range of colors and improvements, I can’t wait to see when they will all be available. The new METIS shown below looks even better up close. The additional pad in back provides a perfect mating to a Leatt brace, and it provides excellent ventilation.

Not only does iXS make cool helmets, but they also produce a bunch of hemispherical goggles that really rock. They offer a dozen graphic styles to match or clash your helmets. iXS’s gloves and clothing are definitely something to behold. This is one website you must visit.

Spank

Spank had a bunch of shiny, new parts on display as well. They had a prototype stem that I thought looked absolutely amazing! The stem was beautifully CNC-machined, but I was told by Gavin Vos, the co-owner of Spank, that it is just a sample and that the final forged unit will be even stronger. The introduction of complete wheels from Spank also really peaked my interest. Even though I have no issues lacing up my own wheels, a complete solution with both hubs and rims is something I personally like.

The new Spike bar with another Spike stem prototype on display.

Speaking of Spike, stay tuned for a review of the new Spike pedals which, based on my initial rides, are excellent. These beasts have forged bodies with 20 pins on a true flat / thin body. How thin? 12mm to be exact. Not the thinnest, but in practical terms you can’t get much thinner without sacrificing strength.

In a previous post we talked a bit about wheels. Well, Spank has a few wheel sets bound to suit your riding style. The Spike and Spoon wheels look excellent with a bunch of innovative features like the BeadNip profile, the OhhBah inner wall, and zero eyelet construction. Again, Gavin explained why they decided to go without eyelets. They thought, “Why drill an extra large hole and add an eyelet, when precision drilling the holes with the correct angle will make a better interface and stronger wheel?”

Kore

Kore had a bunch of glossy parts out on display as well as a neat prototype of a new 35mm-diameter bar. They aren’t trying to set another standard just for the heck of it, but they reason that with bigger hit bikes, there is a real need for stronger gear that is more resistant to fatigue.

SRAM

One of my last Interbike stops was with SRAM. I talked with Tyler Morland for a while, and he showed off all the goodies to me. SRAM knows how to deliver! For one thing they had celebrities there with their bikes. Can you name the rider pictured below?

You know you done good when you have a tire named after you, like Danny Hart. Danny was around with his Giant showing off all the SRAM gear.

SRAM had all their components on display with new colors like the XO Silver, and there were other new additions to the line up like the XO DH chainring and bashguard.

Jeff and I both agree that the new X5 Group could be a game-changer next year. It looks like X9 but at a much lower price point. Tyler pointed out that essentially these two groups are the same and that the reduced pricing is a result of changes in materials. You will probably start seeing these on bikes in the $800 range – nice gear at a cheaper price point.

Shifting looks very X9ish as well.

The biggest story with SRAM is that you will have two more choices on gear for a total of 4 gear ranges for the chainrings: the original 42-28, 39-26, and now a lower 38-24 and an even lower 36-22. Another important set of products that SRAM will be releasing are easy-to-get repair kits for all your forks, shocks, and other gear.

Santa Cruz

The final stop that I had to make was Santa Cruz bikes. Like SRAM, you couldn’t miss this gorgeous booth with wall-to-wall wood and bike porn. Not to mention that Greg Minnar, Steve Peat, and Josh Bryceland were on hand as well.

Below are three of my favorite Santa Cruz bikes from the show:

The new carbon Nomad. This bike already was made even stronger than the aluminum version of the V10.

The new Carbon V10.

I got all goose-bumpy when I saw this rig! And to think that you can literally jump an entire highway with this bike and it’s still lighter than some XC bikes. What a testament to the strength found in newer carbon structures.

Santa Cruz Tallboy.

I have a lot of respect for this bike; the Tallboy is the bike that really turned me onto 29ers. A few people I know have this bike and they work magic on it–it climbs like a billy goat!

Well folks stay tuned for more – I hope to get a few more Interbike pics posted of even more sweet mountain bikes!

At Interbike this year we saw a number of mountain bike brake refinements along with a few interesting new developments from companies like Avid and Formula. Here’s what we found.

SRAM / Avid

One of the biggest deals at the show was Avid. The company is revamping their rotors this year and changing them to even sizes in line with the industry which is a big step for them. The new rotors are the HS1 (all stainless) and the higher-end HSX (two piece with aluminum center) in 140, 160, 180, and 200mm sizes. The new hexagonal-shaped rotor has been cross-drilled instead of having the rotor milled out. The smaller, more numerous holes will run smoother with less “growl” as the pads do their job bringing your bike to a stop.

The entire line of Avid brakes that feature taper bore (Elixir, XO, and XX) have been tweaked internally with a revised bladder to reduce air permeability. The new design adds an air trap system to prevent air from entering the reservoir and an O-ring just in front of the air trap to further improve the feel of the brake and maintain consistency. The new Elixir 9 also gets an improved contact point adjuster for 2012. Along with that, the World Cup brakes lose the tri-align system in favor of weight savings, bringing them down to 277 grams (weight includes lever, caliper, and 160mm rotor and hardware).

Shimano

Shimano had a see-through XT brake set on display with windows into the caliper and lever assembly (pics below). The complex lever design fits great for one finger operation and the adjustment on the lever works well at setting reach as well. The simple linear piston and return spring with its relatively large volume should perform nicely. However, even in this cutaway you can see how air could be trapped in the piston area of the master cylinder. Just be sure to have the reservoir pointing up and full when bleeding the system out and it shouldn’t be a big deal.

The brake caliper itself looks great with a simple, elegant design that makes it easy to remove top-loaded pads. But having the bleed port below the hose means you are doing a caliper-to-lever bleed only. Not a bad thing but with visuals like this you can get a better idea of what you’re dealing with. Now if only these would work in the real world I would be sold!

Formula

Formula has refined their mountain bike brake line-up as well. The new oval piston DH monster, the Formula RO, has a totally redesigned lever and master cylinder with more volume than the current THE ONE. Along with a redesign, the unit is also more robust. Stroke reach adjustments are built into the lever and the RO can also be had with optional FCS (contact point adjustment).

The top-load design makes for easy removal and servicing of the pads and pistons. The calipers on the RO are forged one-piece designs to keep weight to a minimum. The bleed port is located in the middle of the caliper making it easy to flip flop the calipers if you decide to run “Moto” style.

At about 361 grams per wheel, these are heavier than THE ONE brakes but heavier duty as well (not that there was anything wrong with THE ONE). The robust design as shown above and the redesigned levers scream DH.

THE ONE with reach adjust on the lever.

And when I saw the latest idea from Formula I was screaming like a little girl at a Justin Bieber concert. Formula is working on a new hydraulic brake hose quick release fitting. Coming from a race background and using zero loss quick releases before I was super stoked! Talk about making some jobs easy. The best part of the quick release is that the hose end is just slightly larger than the hose itself, opening up a bunch of possibilities for routing.

Ashima

Ashima Brakes has been coming up with inventive ways of making brake rotors run cooler and lighter. Wayne Moore let me in on some ideas that have been floating around, some of them a bit crazier than others but you never know.

The photo above shows a test concept that uses a simple fan that would pump air through the rotor to cool things off a bit. Simple, somewhat effective, and lightweight. Usually nothing gets in that space anyhow. Another idea Ashima is working on is a three spoke aluminum rotor core with carbon reinforcement (for added stiffness) and steel braking surfaces for compatibility. Of course this is still under development but it should make for a lightweight rotor.

Due to time constraints we didn’t get a chance to hit everyone else but believe me, Hope, Magura, Funn and others were also showing off their goods as well.

More to come…

At Interbike last year I previewed the technology behind the Hayes Prime brakes, particularly the virtues of the poppet cam and new reach adjusters. This summer I finally got a chance to thoroughly give these brakes a go and this is my review.

Tech

The Prime Pro brakes represent somewhat of a departure from other Hayes components with a host of new features not found in the rest of the current line-up. The poppet cam technology inside the brake master and the re-designed lever / detented adjuster really sets the Primes apart from simple piston / reservoir systems. Here you’re getting a complex, scaled down version of a braking system that you would find on some sport bikes.

Checkout the video from Hayes below to see the poppet cam and how it adjusts the dead stroke.

Poppet cam

In addition to the poppet cam, Hayes includes a bunch of other great features that make the Prime a truly premium brake. For starters, the Pro kit features titanium and anodized aluminum bolts to shave weight plus you get a two piece rotor (with the Pro sets) made from an aluminum center and stamped stainless steel brake surface.

The caliper is a redesign that is very user-friendly with an easy-to-remove bridge pin holding the two pads in place. With this system you can remove the pin and pull out the pads for a quick service or change without having to pull the caliper off.  The higher placement of the two caliper bridge bolts and corresponding placement of material also makes for a stiffer caliper design.

Installation

These Prime brakes screamed out for abuse so I installed them on my DH rig. The brakes feature burly construction which makes them a natural choice on AM – DH bikes.

Installing the Primes on my Banshee Legend took about 40 minutes. Both hoses were long enough on my medium frame that I still needed to trim the brake lines a good 6 – 8 inches each. Don’t worry – Hayes supplies you with hose ends to do this operation. All you need is a proper brake housing cutter (a Park CN-10 or similar) and you’re golden.

After trimming the hose I installed the levers and calipers. It’s important to tighten the lever clamp top bolt so that there is no space left; torque the bottom clamp bolt at 3.4Nm. The caliper itself takes a bit more work to dial in but a tool like the Hayes Feel’R gauge makes life easy. Set the caliper squarely over the rotor and check the spacing using a gauge or two business cards on each side of the rotor; with the brake applied, tighten the caliper down to 9Nm.

Double check for leaks and proper torque before burnishing the pads with some safe stops (about 30-50) at medium speed. After that it takes a little more riding to really get the lever reach and contact points adjusted properly. I found sitting on the bike standing still is not good enough – I needed to hit the slopes to get a realistic feel for the levers. With the levers dialed I adjusted the contact points.

Performance

How well did the Prime brakes perform? After some serious trail time I have to say these are right up there with the other brands I have played with. Hayes comes out on top in terms of adjustment characteristics and the poppet cam works very well. The detents on the reach adjuster are easy to dial with positive feedback with a nice click between settings. All of the adjustments can be done with gloves on and without any tools needed to make things move.

The Primes offer roughly the same power as the Avid Codes and modulation that’s comparable to the ONE from Formula. I did notice that I needed a bit more finger force on my end to stop the bike than with other brakes I’ve tested. But stop they did. Even on the hardest courses at Blue Mountain, which are notorious for burning up brakes (Shot Glass and O-Chute), the Primes fared well. I did get some noise near the bottom of the runs but I didn’t get any fade. I definitely got these brakes super hot, so much so that the rotors changed to a blue color, which is a good indication of the amount of heat involved.

The Primes modulate very well and by playing with the contact point you can adjust how they engage. The brakes will ramp up faster if your contact point is closer to the bar, more slowly as you move away from the bar. By moving the lever out at the same time you can get the brake to work virtually any way you want it to work. I tend to set up my brakes to have the maximum pressure (fully engaged) with the levers parallel to the bar with about an inch in between the two. I have seen other people set their brakes so the lever touches the bar on maximum pressure (a big no no but who am I to say), and although I am sure you can do that, I didn’t. Throughout my tests with the Primes I always had consistent feel and no change in force through the braking stroke.

Having tanked my bike more than once (I broke my ankle and played ping pong with the bike down a slope), the Hayes Primes didn’t show any signs of damage – the levers survived and nothing was bent. As with any bike part, you will have to service these brakes. After every few rides or so I tend to pull the pads (easy with the Primes) and retract and extend them, just to make sure the pads don’t stick due to accumulated dirt and dust (doing this also keeps the seals moist). Checking up on your equipment also gives you a good indication of how much pad is left, leaving you enough time to order a new set if necessary.

All in all I think Hayes did a great job bringing a powerful and reliable brake to a highly competitive market.  So for about $260 a wheel, try out a set and I think you too will be impressed.

Thanks to Joel Richardson and the folks at Hayes for sending down the brakes for review.

Josh rolls into the trailhead parking lot, five minutes early for the weekly group ride. Almost everyone else is already there, putting bikes together and doing standard pre-ride maintenance.  Matt is already pedaling around on his Jabberwocky, extolling the beautiful simplicity of riding a steel frame with 29″ wheels and only one miserable gear to anyone who will listen.

As Fitch puts away his shock pump after fine-tuning the air pressure in his massive fork, Josh notices that he is wearing his favorite pair of baggies, complete with a hole over the left butt cheek from a nasty wreck into a thorn bush on last week’s ride. Fitch wouldn’t ride a hardtail if his life depended on it.

“Everyone’s bike is different,” John thought.”Every bike is so different, that being different is almost ordinary. Is there any component or bike out there that is truly original anymore?”

In a sport that is rooted in rebellion and bucking the system, the quest to stand out from the crowd is deeply ingrained. The individualistic streak runs so deep in the mountain biker’s psyche that he even strives to stand out from the crowd of his fellow riders.

But in a subculture rooted in individualism with everyone riding a different style or brand of bike, how do you up the ante and truly make your mountain bike a unique machine?

Enter Dirty Dog

Dirty Dog’s mission is to do precisely that:

To make high quality, high performance components that look unlike anything else in the marketplace. Our theme is to, ‘Leave Your Mark,’ or stand out in the crowd. There are so many incredible bikes to choose from, but most are built up with standard component groups. DirtyDogMTB allows you to express yourself.

The Web Rotors

Dirty Dog hooked me up with a snazzy pair of Web rotors to review. At 160 mm (6″) in diameter, these rotors are at home on either my FS trail bike or my 29er. Weighing in at 109 grams, they are both stylish and weight conscious.

Installation is a snap: just take off the old rotors and put on the new ones, tightening the bolts down incrementally in a star-shaped pattern.

On The Trail

The web rotors’ performance was spot-on out on the singletrack. Stopping power was just as good as all of my other 160 mm rotors, thanks to a modern wave pattern providing maximum heat-shedding abilities.

While stopping the bike is a mandatory feature of any brake rotor, the Webs really do bring that “bling” factor to the playing field. These rotors are seriously original, and they do add that little bit of personal touch to an often overlooked part of the bike.

At an MSRP of $38.95 per rotor, this is both a stylish upgrade and a relatively affordable one!

More Rotors from Dirty Dog

Compared to some of Dirty Dog’s newer rotor offerings, the design of the Web rotor is pretty tame (though more affordable).

Check out some more of their rotor designs:

Bone Burner, MSRP $68.95 in 160 mm size

Dragon, MSRP $68.95 in 160 mm size

Skull, MSRP $68.95 in 160 mm size

Ace of Spades, MSRP $68.95 in 160 mm size

If you are looking to customize the snot out of your mountain bike, be sure to pick up a pair of Dirty Dog rotors!

Thanks to Dirty Dog for providing these rotors for review!

SRAM has been busy over the last year or two integrating and simplifying product lines across their brands (SRAM, Avid, RockShox and TruVativ) to offer true component group selections for mountain bikes. SRAM helped me set my bike up with the X0 component group this past fall which includes the freshly-designated XO hydraulic disc brakes.

Tech and materials

For those who are familiar with the Avid brake line, the XO brakes essentially take up where the Elixir CR brakes leave off (though the Elixir CRs are still considered the X9 brakeset). Based on the specs available online there isn’t much difference between the X0 brakes and Elixir CRs – except for the fact that the X0s weigh 40 grams less! The X0 brakes come equipped with slightly different brake pads (organic vs. sintered) and a more streamlined master cylinder.

The Avid X0 brakes tip-toe onto the scale at 333 grams which is lighter than most hydraulic disc brakes out there (though somehow the XX version is nearly 50 grams lighter than that!). SRAM was able to get the weight down thanks to carbon levers and a sleek in-line master cylinder and reservoir design that’s not only lightweight, it also takes up very little space on your bars. The lever body and caliper feature durable aluminum bodies.

Installing the X0 brakes is a cinch and aligning the caliper and rotor is literally a two step affair: 1. squeeze the brake lever and 2. tighten the bolts. That’s it. I’m not mechanically inclined myself but I installed these brakes in about 30 minutes and had them spinning rub-free on the first attempt. I found the standard hose length to be more than adequate; in fact, even on my large 29er I ended up with a bit too much hose up front (I haven’t found the time to trim the hoses to length yet).

The brake pads on the X0 brakes are top-loading which means you don’t have to remove the wheel to replace the pads. This might seem like a minor detail but it could come in handy during a race like last year’s Fools Gold 100 where competitors burned through multiple sets of brake pads due to gritty and wet conditions. And finding replacement pads at your local bike shop shouldn’t be an issue since the pads are fairly standardized across the SRAM/Avid line (unlike other brakes we’ve used).

On the trail

Let me start this by saying: these are the best hydraulic disc brakes I’ve tested. The first time I used the X0 brakes on the trail it was like a revelation – this is how mountain bike brakes should work. The levers feel completely comfortable and natural and easily lend themselves to single finger pulls (something I’m finally getting used to). It turns out SRAM has put a lot of thought into the placement of the lever pivot (closer to the bar) to align more closely with the arc your finger makes as you pull the lever in.

I also really like the positive clicking sound and feel whenever I release the lever. I’m not sure if there’s a real performance reason for this (like letting you know the brake is fully disengaged) but it feels solid and satisfying on the trail. Contact point adjustment is built into the master cylinder with barrel-adjuster type controls which helps tailor the lever feel and performance to each individual (and helps compensate for pad wear over time).

From day one my X0 brakes have been whisper quiet on the trails and I rarely experience that spaceship warbling sound I notice when others grab the chicken switches. The included rotors are mated perfectly to the pads and after 6+ months of riding in all kinds of conditions (wet, gritty, hot, snowy) I still have some wear left on the first set of pads.

One of the key performance metrics for any mountain bike brake set is modulation and in my experience the X0s offer smooth, regulated stopping power that’s easy to throttle from a little to a lot while screaming down the trail. SRAM talks about something they call “Deep Stroke Modulation” which is heavy on marketing-speak and light on actual technical details but honestly I don’t care – the ability to control braking power on the X0 brakes is both intuitive and consistent. As far as I can tell it’s just magic.

In keeping with the idea of providing a true mountain bike component group, SRAM offers the X0 brakes in multiple color ways (red, blue, gold, and black). The shiny black finish, which SRAM calls “Black Onyx,” looks hot but it’s also great at shedding mud and cleaning up after a dirty ride. No need to spray these parts with Pam – they’re already slickity slick.

Overall

If you haven’t guessed by now, I love the Avid X0 brakes and would recommend them to anyone building up or upgrading an XC/AM bike. To me, the best bike parts are easy to install (check), low maintenance (check), and don’t get in the way on the trail (check) – along those dimensions Avid’s X0 brakes are 3 for 3. Go ahead and give the X0 brakes a shot – what’s stopping you?

A mystery box arrived on my desk last week, the contents of which attracted loads of interest around here: Ashima composite body hydraulic disc brakes. The 180mm front and 160mm rear setup looks super trick with red anodized highlights at the lever and caliper. But the real attention getter is the composite body. That’s right: these babies are light. Weight for front caliper/hose/lever is 197g, rear is 213g (zip ties included). By comparison Bike Rumor’s first look at the 2011 Shimano XTR Race version came in at 215g front 229g rear.

I won’t go into too much more detail, as I plan to throw up another post as soon as these brakes are mounted on my new ride. Yep, it’s also new bike day! It will be my first foray into the world of singlespeed 29ers and my second new bike in less than a month. The first was the steel cyclocross bike I mentioned in my January post about off-season training. It’s a spree, and I couldn’t be happier.

Looking at the photo above you might be thinking: are these Avid Codes?!? Yup they sure are. Totally revamped and improved for 2011 and you can see the difference right away. Gone is the clunky over-sized design; instead, the new Codes feature a sleek, lightweight profile that is very close in concept to the rest of the Avid brake line up. Fortunately the Codes keep many of the unique features that make them durable and reliable enough for gravity riders.

Crashing is inevitable for those who ride the slopes at high speed and the new Avid Code brake levers still feature the “Bend Zone” that allows the lever to flex which prevents damage to the lever body. The new levers also feature the same ultra-durable, 3-cartridge bearing pivot system as the previous generation Codes.

The 2011 Code system weighs in at 410 grams for the 160mm post mount version and the updated lever sports the same Taperbore technology as the rest of the 2011 Avid brake line-up. The integrated reservoir and pad contact adjustment is also featured on the new Codes as is an adjustable reach knob (shown above). The adjustable reach option is a wise addition to the brake since DH riders often have widely varying preferences for lever-to-bar distances. The new finish and graphics are something to behold – the whole set-up almost looks like surgical equipment!

The new Avid Codes still utilize a four piston caliper but this time around they feature a top loading pad (my personal favorite feature on a brake – other than stopping) and a caliper that has had a bit of the fat trimmed off with an adjustable banjo for that perfect fit. The caliper is a forged 2-piece unit that uses two bridge bolts compared to the four bolts that were used in previous versions. Thanks to the re-design, the new caliper is just as stiff or even stiffer. For friction material you’re getting a steel backing plate with organic linings which makes for a quieter brake. Inside, the brakes are running on DOT 5.1 fluid which keeps things crisp with great modulation. The Tri-align mounting system is perfect for frames that may not be perfectly straight and allows you to install the brakes in a fraction of the time it might normally take.

Speaking of installation, you get everything you need for each brake (front and rear) – just make sure to order the correct version for your needs and application. Although the calipers and levers are the same for front and rear, the hose lengths, rotors, and adapters are different. My set (shown above) came with front and rear 203mm G3 Cleansweep rotors. Following the easy instructions from Avid (these seem to get better every year), make sure you pay attention to the rotor bolt “star” installation section. Torque the T25 bolts down with a torque wrench and your rotor is good to go.

Following that, install the adapters as needed, and torque them in place. Finally, you’re ready to install the brakes to your bike. You can either fasten down the caliper or the levers first; I like to start with the calipers so I can run the cables exactly the way I want. Install the CPS caliper hardware loosely at first and run the cables up to the bars, fastening them to the frame with cable ties. [Side note: I used to love those snaps that some frames come with until mine popped off at the wrong time and I got a hose torn off. Lesson learned.] Now, at the bar end it’s just a matter of setting the correct angle and spacing, fastening the split clamp down with the supplied stainless steel hardware and torquing everything in place. Lastly, if necessary, shorten the hose.

The chart below shows the subjective brake performance of the new 2011 Avid Codes.

Once all that assembly stuff was out of the way I had to take these brakes out on the trail. This time around I installed the brakes on a brand new bike – my Banshee Legend II project bike – so I really didn’t know what to expect. Having ridden the older Codes (and honestly not liking them), I had a dim view of what was to come.

After putting these brakes to the test I’m happy to say the new Codes ride very differently than the older units. Avid really improved the brakes’ modulation – previous models worked more like on/off switches in many cases. I guess the revamped lever was part of the trick. Now when I ride I can play with the lever a bit to better control the wheel and I can still stop the bike in a hurry. After burnishing the pads I found I got surprisingly high levels of stopping power.

I also got a nice feel throughout the stroke when applying the brakes. At first contact there seems to be a very quick build of friction and stopping power with a high amount of torque. In some cases I found that I had to ease off the lever a touch as torque continued to build from the pads heating up. The second I got off the lever, the release was immediate with zero drag. Doing this often on some other brakes often leads to brake fade. Even over long runs the lever never went mushy. The Codes are definitely “one-finger brakes” thanks to the high braking forces – perfect for those of us who love gravity, are on the heavier side, or are just plain hard on our brakes.

Overall the 2011 Avid Code brakes ($235 MSRP) are impressive and offer a big upgrade over previous generations. Improved modulation, durable construction, and consistent performance make these a great choice for anyone who rides hard.

Thanks to the folks at Avid for sending down these brakes for a review.

SRAM is coming in hard this year with some sick components and most notably is offering a 2×10 ring set-up from the top of the line down to the bottom. From XX to X7 you can now build up your bike with one less chainring! For those who are still on the fence, 3×10 is also available (though not in the XX line). Not too long ago I got my hands on both the full X0 and X9 groups and today I’m going to take you through the X9 line and give you the lowdown on this great looking group.

For 2010, unlike previous years, SRAM is going with a complete component group approach (and I do mean complete).  The X9 group covers everything you need to complete that finished look to your bike: matching graphics on the crank, rear derailleur, brakes, calipers and even hubs makes this group an eye-catcher. Available in three graphic color choices (red, white, and grey), you can be assured these will match up with nearly everything out there. The X9 can be used for the racer but is really meant for the experienced rider. Think of this group as your put on anything, go anywhere type gear. It’s certainly strong and reliable enough for even the most demanding riders.

Tons of Options

The X9 group is full of options which makes it super versatile for mountain biking applications. Beside the 2×10 and 3×10 options on the crank, you can also select gearing with 26-39, 28-42 (more race-oriented), or 22-33-44 teeth. Bottom bracket compatibility is not a problem either with press fit 30 and traditional threaded bottom brackets (GXP) options.

Depending on your gear choice up front you have three derailleur options. Short cage works best for those who plan on using only one ring up front and are targeting a more gravity-oriented build. The medium cage is perfect for 2×10 with either the 11-32 (race-oriented) or 12-16 (everyone else) cassette. The long cage is for those running the full 3×10 set up. With the rear derailleur you’re also getting some great tech and bling there. The carbon outer cage and alloy inner cage make this derailleur lightweight and strong. The sealed cartridge bearing in the upper pulley will ensure longer life and less maintenance.

For the front derailleur there’s a dizzying array of clamping styles available. SRAM offers both high and low clamp options as well as high and low clamp direct mounts (and don’t forget top or bottom pull!). Did I also mention the 2×10 and 3×10 derailleurs are specific as well? Compared to the X9 of a few years back, this derailleur is a big improvement with a tighter, more compact design and an intelligently placed though bolt that won’t interfere with some DW or VPP lower links.

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Brand new shifting pods styled after the XX units make for a more compact, lightweight unit (232 grams in 2×10 configuration). With a sleek design and two color choices (red or white/grey) these match the other components nicely. Speaking of matching, you can also opt for the matchmaker option to save even more weight and space on your bar. I personally like the rubberized cover window that allows you to change the cable without removing the shifter and cap that the 9spd version has. Both crisp and positive up and down shifting is what you get here.

The 2×10 Revolution

SRAM has spent a ton of time and money perfecting the 2×10 and the effort has definitely paid off. The latest model chain rings are made from thicker blanks of high strength 7075 series aluminum and to add even more strength, the bolt circle has been enlarged on the outer ring, making it stiffer and preventing flex. Along with that, the new X-Glide technology improves shifting dramatically by offering 4 up-shift and 4 down-shift points and 14 of what they call “sweet spots.” Basically what you end up with is all around improved performance over previous models (see graphic below).

Avid Elixir CR Brakes

Rounding out my X9 group is the matching Avid Elixir CR brakes.  The new Elixir brakes feature a carbon lever as well as contact and reach adjustments. Coming in at 375 grams (160mm rotor) these brakes work well on anything from an XC bike to a FR rig. With four G3 rotor diameter choices (203mm, 185mm, 160mm,  140mm* rear only) you can decide how much stopping power you really need. The 850mm front hose and 1600mm rear hose are long enough for any bike out there (except tandems). Further internal refinements in the Taperbore technology and internal reservoir promise more control, feedback, and power when braking compared to older style straight bore model brakes.

I opted to go with 185/160mm rotors on my new 5.5″ trail bike (the Opus Clutch). The Elixir CR brakes also feature an integrated reservoir which makes for a smaller package than the familiar Juicy line of brakes. Other technologies that have been incorporated into the the Elixir CR brakes is the contact point adjustment (allows for a short or long stroke on the lever) and the power reserve geometry (which places the pivot closer to the bar) for a more natural, ergonomic feel to the lever pull. On the caliper end of things your get DOT 5.1 fluid and top loading pads (I love that feature) which have sintered material (great for longer life) and metal backing plates.

Performance on the Trail

How did the X9 hold up and perform on the trail?  The very first word that came to my mind was smoooooth – it’s hard to believe that the x9 is third from top-of-the-line at SRAM. The X9 shifts fast, much faster than what I was used to with my older 2010 X9 model derailleur and shifters. I noticed that the same solid shifting performance on the rear now extended to the front as well – I guess all that design work paid off! The rear shifting works great as well, both up-shifting and down-shifting. Having used other crank models from SRAM, the new  X9 2×10 cranks are far superior. I noticed right away the increased stiffness and less ring warpage when I really got on the pedals.

The larger 12-36 cassette looks odd at first but in combination with the 26-39 that I have up front I noticed that it’s optimized for my style of riding. Down shifts are nearly instant and I didn’t find myself making as many recovery shifts to get back into cadence. Since I’m running 26″ wheels on a bike that comes in at 27lbs I found I didn’t need that ultra low 1.3m / revolution that you can get with a 3×10 setup. The 1.5m / revolution is perfect for my fitness level (a 29″er may be a bit harder to push).

At this time of year most of my riding has been in cold weather at night with my regular group of hardcore riders at my favorite spots. The DVP offers a good technical challenge with quick climbs, switchbacks, skinnies, bridges and about 12 miles of distance per lap, perfect for testing XC – AM bikes. Hitting the climbs with my Opus and dropping into the 26T front chainring, I’m happy to sit and spin with no real problems. Even when I’m on the steep climbs, the cranks stay steady and stiff without much flexing at all. I prefer the 26 tooth gearing here rather than that of a 22 tooth granny because I found I had a more control over my bike without the feeling of lifting the front wheel and losing momentum. The difference in gearing distance is a real improvement for my personal riding style.

I have to say I was surprised and equally impressed at the SRAM brake improvements as well.  The new Elixirs seems to offer better control in terms of braking force modulation. To me, previous models had more of an on/off feel to them. Overall braking force has also improved – I noticed that the sintered pads and the new G3 rotors work well at bringing the bike to a fast stop. With a host of features like the tool-free contact and reach adjustment, these brakes will fit just about every hand. I found the adjustments worked well for me, however the contact point barrel was a bit hard to move. Another nice thing you will also notice is the lack of noise – braking is now a silent affair.

If you have a chance, get yourself on a bike with the SRAM X9 2×10 and feel the difference for yourself. Have fun with it and really see what good quality at a reasonable price can get you. The complete X9 group will run about $1,100 (depending on options), and about $420 less without the brakes – a great value for those looking to build up a new rig for the new year!

Thanks to the folks at SRAM for sending down the X9 group for product review.

It’s taken us a while to get a hold of the folks at Shimano but this year we finally cornered them at Interbike. I talked with Devin Walton at the Shimano booth last month and we had just enough time to go over the new Dyna-Sys technology and XTR components. It’s a good thing too – the new XTR and Dyna-Sys represent a whole new level of shifting performance for Shimano.

Everyone has probably heard of XTR but fewer may be familiar with Dyna-Sys. In reality Dyna-Sys is more of a “how” than a “what” – it’s all about how the drivetrain reacts to mountain bike forces and conditions. Shimano put a lot of thought into which gears people use most often and found most revolved around the middle chain ring. This isn’t all that surprising – every frame maker already optimizes their chainlines so the main pivot is placed slightly above the middle ring. This prevents the rear suspension from reacting when power is applied but if you deviate from that intersection you will induce loads into the suspension either in the form of pedal kickback or drop-away. So, dropping the chainline into a 22T granny gear or shifting up to the 44T outer ring adds undesirable forces.

Dyna-Sys takes this into account and changes the tooth count on the outer and inner rings, offering a 42, 32, 24 setup (on the triple ring crank). This means the rider should be spending more time on the 32 and 42 rings and less on the 24. Paired with the 11-36T rear cassette, the middle ring becomes more usable. If you do have to drop down to the granny ring, you’re only going to be doing one or two recovery shifts because the difference between the gears is less than before.

Shimano didn’t stop at just changing gear combinations on the XTR group. For 2011 the company is making specific component groups for the strong trail bike market as well as the XC market. Knowing that there are many riders who want the legendary performance of XTR on their trail bikes, Shimano also knows that those same riders don’t want compromises. So the company is offering trail-specific components including cranks, chains, wheels, and brakes. Even seemingly minor details were redesigned – for example the side plates on the chain were designed to optimize shifting so that the plates match the shifting ramps and pins on the chainring to speed up shifting.

The integration of Servo-Wave brake-boosting technology into an XTR-level brake generates high levels of stopping power (125 percent of the previous XTR benchmark for the trail brake) that can be precisely modulated with single-finger effort, leaving a better grip on the bars for charging through anything the trails toss at you. This was achieved in part by a return to an axial configuration rather that the previous radial one.  Full ceramic caliper pistons, heat-sink-looking fin-backed brake pads to shed heat, and truly cool IceTech aluminum-core rotors go even further to keep heat generation at bay. These all-new brakes are said to maintain cool, quiet performance in virtually any conditions.

This is just a bit of what is new from Shimano for this year. Not only does Shimano have the all new XTR group available for the trail rider and XC racer, they also have a ton of other refinements in everything from their shoe line-up to wheels and components like the XT and SLX groups. Check out Shimano’s website when you can and hopefully stay tuned for more from Shimano in the future.

It’s always fun stopping by and chatting it up with the guys from the Hayes group because there’s so much to talk about – both bike and non-bike stuff. At Interbike last week I spoke with Richard Travis, Joel Richardson, Tom Porter and last but not least, Scott Boyd.

Starting off with Manitou we discussed the success of the Dorado Pro. Based on feedback from pro and amateur riders alike, it looks like this fork is on its way to becoming a classic. The Dorado will not see any changes for 2011 which isn’t surprising – it’s already super dialed.

The new Marvel fork from Manitou is intended to replace the Minute and it’s a redesign rather than simply a name change. With a new one-piece lower that’s designed to be a bit stiffer, the Marvel also features more clearance for high volume tires. The fork crown has been redesigned to accommodate a tapered head tube and is stiffer to make sure those stanchions remain pointing in the right direction. An Absolute+ damper cartridge and an air spring on the right fork leg round out the package.

The hotly anticipated Prime brakes from Hayes were on display in both white and black. Up close these brakes definitely look like they mean business. You’re getting 26mm pistons and a high tech poppet cam within the master cylinder that can be adjusted to open at different positions to dial in the stroke. The Prime brakes also feature a nice positive detent on the brake lever for adjusting lever position. Speaking of the lever, it felt great in my hand and my brake finger fit nicely in the curve of the blade. With all the right hardware and trick parts, expect a full review in the near future.

Answer continues to expand its line-up with a stem that drops the center of the bar 20mm instead of raising it as well as a new AM stem called the Rove. On top of that, Answer has an ultra cool anodized bar that’s not actually in production – though one day it may be, depending on demand. So if you like the skull & bones bar pictured below let Answer know by dropping them an email. Heck you never know – after all that’s how some of the coolest cars came to be. Answer has also added a new winter glove (rated to 25°F) to the two gloves in the current line-up.

Take a look at these cool looking carbon rims from Sun Ringle below (there is just something about a carbon rim that makes me feel all fussy). Only available in 26″, the Carbon SRD rims are mated to straight-pull spokes and the same hubs as the Charger Pro wheels with 24 spokes and a decent 1555 grams in weight. These wheels are good for your XC – AM rider with various adapters to accommodate nearly all the widths and fork configurations out there. Along with those wheels, Sun Ringle has also introduced a new rim for the DJ market called the Estate rim. At 600 grams and 34mm wide double walled construction, these may be worth considering when you taco your current set.

Check these products and more at the Hayes websites.