I recently worked with my buddy Chris to pimp out his 2010 Fox 40 to 2012 specs and it was a big success. Well, Fox decided to send down a brand new 2012 Fox 40 FIT RC2 for us to compare and review as well.

I was pretty stoked to give the 2012 Fox 40 a thrashing after fixing up the 2010. The new 40 incorporates all of the prior knowledge that Fox has gleaned from their other forks into a beautiful 6.81 pound package.

Intended for serious downhill service, the 40 is not for the budget-minded rider. Rather, the 40 is intended for the person who puts a premium on performance. With riders like Aaron Gwin running the 40 and winning world championships on it, I am sure we can all agree that it is definitely race-proven.

Specs

The 2012 Fox 40 comes in either white or black diamond (a slightly metallic black), with a 1 1/8 steering tube and a full 8″ (203mm) of travel. The fork travel can be reduced by changing up the shim height on the coil side in 1/2 inch (12mm) increments, potentially dropping it all the way down to 6.5″ (165mm) of travel.

As I previously mentioned on the Pimp My 40 article, this 40 comes with all the goodies: Kashima coated stanchions and low friction SKF seals are standard. On the spring side of things, a standard titanium coil (blue for 150-180lb) comes installed, and two extra steel coils (purple and green) are provided if you’re on the lighter or heavier end of the scale.

Dampening is handled by the new inverted FIT damper, which I have already had experience with. The damper takes care of high and low speed compression (up top) and rebound (down at the axle), which makes it easier for a rider to tune the bike. The FIT damper has been in existence since 2005, but this time around Fox re-engineered it by inverting it and changing up the controls, which effectively kills two birds with one stone.

For starters, the inverted damper removes un-sprung mass from around the axle, so that it is now supported by the spring. The second advantage is the improved placement of the compression dials. Previous versions had the compression dials at the axle, which made changing settings on the fly impossible. One would have to stop completely, dismount, and remove the protective cover in order to access the controls.

With the new damper there is also a reduction in internal friction, which further improves damper sensitivity. This is accomplished by low friction seals and a new bladder design.

Installation

Installing the Fox 40 requires a few tools:

• Saw guide
• Hacksaw
• Measuring tape
• Headset press (if this is a new installation)
• Star nut tool
• 4, 5, and 6mm hex keys
• Torque wrench

Installation of a dual-crown fork requires good measuring skills, correct tools, and a strong mechanical background. If you do not have all of these skills then just leave this job to a bike shop… there’s no shame in that. If you do have all of the aforementioned skills and want to do it on your own, here’s how:

Start off by installing the bearing cups in the frame with the headset press.

Follow that by installing the lower race on the fork (be careful not to damage the steering tube in any way).

Once the race and cups are installed, remove the upper crown from the fork using the 5mm hex tool.

Measure the head tube, and add the stack height of the headset. On the Fox 40 you must have a minimum stack height of 105mm and no greater than 166.8mm. If you fall on the short side, you’re adding spacers between the upper crown and headset. If you’re on the tall side, you need a shorter headset.

Install the fork, complete with bearings and spacers. Some people who run a direct-mount stem have the steering tube cut flush, as is the case in my situation. If you’re of like mind, place a mark on the steering tube where the top of the crown meets the steering tube. Remove the fork and then cut the steering tube 3mm shorter. It is critical that you get this right: anything greater than that gap, and you’re replacing the steering tube (measure twice, cut once).

Use a saw guide to cut the steering tube, making sure that you remove all the burs on the inside and outside of the tube. Install the star nut using the correct tool at a depth of 4-10mm.

Install the fork with all the spacers as you had it when you set it up the first time. Adjust the star nut tension to about 1.6Nm.

Once the fork is attached to the bike, installation is pretty much the same as all other forks. Installation of the stem, bars, and brakes is covered in this article. For more information, check out the Fox owner’s manual.

Setting up the fork does take a bit of time, but it is well-worth the trouble. You can check out our previous Pimp My 40 article for more information, but the procedure is essentially the same.

Start by setting up the sag, dialing it a turn or two on the left hand dial until you have 25-30% sag. After that, set your high speed compression, low speed compression, and rebound. We used the settings from our previous tests as a starting point (11 HSC, 12LSC, 10R clicks) and found them to be bang-on. In my case, I added +4 HSC and +2 Rebound and it worked great.

Review

The performance of the Fox 40 is tough to beat: the small bump sensitivity is right on par with other excellent forks such as the Dorado Pro. Like the Dorado, I found that the new 40 tracks wonderfully, even if the ground is full of ruts and roots.

The overall reduction in stiction is noticeable when doing back-to-back runs, compared to 2011 or older models without the Kashima coating and SKF seals. I felt that the wheel spent more time tracking the terrain than clipping objects.

On the rougher end of things like the bigger hits and gnarly square-edged rocks, the 40 exceeded my expectations. The 40mm stanchions really made sure that everything stayed straight. There was no hint of flex in the system, even glancing off rocks and roots.

The mastery over the front wheel that the 40 provides will be very hard to beat. Once the fork was tuned correctly, I didn’t notice any negative effects from either the compression or rebound controls. I loved the control layout with the compression dial up top and the rebound below. I also like how the dials on the Fox 40 have a very positive “click” to them, which didn’t leave me wondering if I had actually made a change or not.

Throughout the entire testing period the 40 worked flawlessly without a single issue.

To make this the ultimate fork, I would like to see independent rebound controls for both high and low-speed rebound.  At this level, it would be nice to have the ability to further tune the fork rather than compromise. I felt that shredding stuff like rock gardens with intermittent roller sections taxed the single rebound setting.

Being a bit of a weight weenie, I would also love to see a bit of weight removed, bringing the fork closer to 6.0 lbs. I’m not sure if that would mean a compromise in stiffness (which I love), or the removal of a coil spring replaced with air (which might change the feel of the spring).

Bottom Line

This fork, complete with the new FIT RC2 damper, works flawlessly and will be hard to beat.

MSRP: $1,600.

I would like to thank the folks at Fox for sending down the 40 for a review.

A few weeks back I reviewed the 2012 Fox TALAS RLC FIT. While I was reviewing that fork I also had the new RP23 installed to control the rear of the bike. Add those two together and you have a lot of butter. It’s a silky-smooth ride for sure, even on the roughest of terrain.

Specs

Fox’s 2012 RP23 with Adaptive logic boost valve is a significant upgrade over the previous model. The most obvious change is the color; well, it’s not so much a color change as a coating change. Not only did Fox coat the air piston in Kashima, but they coated the air sleeve with it as well. This year’s RP23 is all Kashima – a nice upgrade for sure. Another significant change lies in the way you set the dampening, with revamped compression/rebound and platform settings, making it much more user-friendly.

Now before you get all excited and rev up your car, ready to race out and get one, there are a few things to consider. First up: tuning the shock for your ride. Before I received my shock I had to let Fox know the bike model, as Fox tunes the dampening shim stack to the leverage ratio of your bike. Grouping builds in a few tune levels, this ensures the shock has the best control over your rear wheel. As a result, a product such as this is best purchased new, or at least from a someone who used it on a bike with the same leverage ratio as yours.

The Adaptive logic boost valve is pretty easy to use and gives you the freedom of absolute control. The design of the valve allows you to choose one of two platform options. The climb/sprint mode has the full level of compression for those uphill rides or sprints.  Then, with a flick of the switch, the shock opens up to one of three levels: full open, medium, or light. The full open works great for faster descents and rougher terrain on a slope. The other two settings, the light and medium, are great to fine tune to the terrain that you’re riding when not climbing.

At this point you’re probably wondering how much of a weight penalty you’re looking at to use the RP23. The good news is that they are pretty light, but they aren’t the lightest out there as this shock is still all aluminum. A 6.5 x 1.5 comes in at just over 200 grams. My 7.5 x 2″ unit comes in at 213 grams (without spacers), making it one of the lighter units I have tested in that length. I am still amazed at how light people can make these things.

Installation

Installing the RP23 is pretty easy. On most frame sets you only need to remove the two bolts holding the shock in place. I always recommend replacing the hardware that attaches them with new stuff (sold separately), simply because the old hardware has already been worn in and, in most cases, worn out. After all, wearing out the new bushings that come with the shock is no fun.

To set up the rear shock, you will need a high pressure shock pump and a friend. In order to get things set the right way you need to prep yourself. Get your gear on so you are at your riding weight. For example, I weigh in at 205lbs with hydration pack (filled with water) and all of the munchies that I would take on a normal ride.

So hop on the bike and pedal around, bouncing a bit to get things all settled, then stop by your friend without dismounting and have him/her set the o-ring back against the air sleeve while remaining in your riding position. Then carefully dismount and measure the distance from the o-ring to the air sleeve. In my case I wanted to see 1/2″ of sag (25% sag). It took a few tries to get the air pressure right at about 165psi, but it’s necessary to take the time.

Once that was set I concentrated on my rebound setting. I went out and hit a familiar section of trail with a good mix of features. I was trying to identify a packing-down feeling (too much rebound) or a bucking feeling (too little). Either of those feelings needed to be tuned out. In the end I played around between 3-5 clicks clockwise.

The next setting was the adaptive logic part. That was pretty easy to set (three choices), and was accomplished on the same trail section. You’re looking for good control over the wheel with little or no wallowing feeling out back. On the jumps, look for too much travel. If that is the case, bump it up a level. I ended on the highest setting of 2 on that dial, and after that I used the ProPedal lever often on the climbs.

The Test

So how did the new Rp23 feel on the trails? Keeping up with the rest of the Fox line up, the RP23 performed superbly, as I mentioned in my opening statement. The Rp23 is very smooth, with no stiction that I could detect.

My usual riding spots are Kelso and the Don. Both spots offer up a wide range of terrain, with Kelso having more aggressive slopes and rocky patches that make a great test track for shocks, really showing how they interact with the terrain. The Don has a mix of technical terrain with webs of roots all over that also challenge the shock in the rutted stuff.

The RP23, in my opinion, feels a bit softer than many other similar shocks, and I found that I spent a lot of time with the ProPedal on. I did play with the air pressure by adding a bit more, but I found that it just made it harsh–not exactly what I was looking for. The shock is a bit more active compared to other units which tend to ramp up quicker.

After my test I decided I need to rethink how suspension should work. The plusher feel did offer up more traction and having a more active wheel helped the bike follow the terrain a bit better, providing more contact over the surface. I guess that is what they mean by a “bottomless feel.” Overall I have to say that the RP23 is at home on any bike up to 5.5″ of travel. After that you may want to consider something a bit more aggressive.

All in all it’s a great shock and a nice upgrade for when you want more control over your ride. Fox has the Rp23 pegged at $420 MSRP which is a premium price for a rear shock, but still not too far from the cost of the other brands at this level.

I would like to thank the folks at Fox for sending down the RP23 for a review.

Fox has revamped their entire lineup for the 2012 production year. As a part of this revamp Fox has delineated the lines between their products so that you and I can understand them a bit better. The top-tier Factory line is where you can find the Talas 150 FIT RLC and all the latest and greatest technology by FOX. The mid-level gear is under the Performance category, using conventional coatings on the components and a slightly simplified damper. Finally, the Evolution line features high-quality entry-level forks that are priced for people looking for true quality at a real bargain.

Features

The 2012 Talas is truly something else… “revamp” doesn’t even begin to cover the advancements! For starters, the Talas features the new Kashima coating on the stanchions. To assure you that you got the real deal, the stanchions are now printed with a genuine Kashima coat logo, so that you and all of your friends know it! Kashima is a very low friction hard coating on the stanchions that is designed to extend the service life as well as provide a super low friction surface for the seals and bushings to ride on.

After my 1 1/8″ steering tube was cut to size (7 7/8″ or 200 mm  in length), the Talas weighed in at 3.8lb – pretty respectable for a fork with 5.9″ (150 mm) of travel when extended. The Talas is offered in both 9mm and 15mm QR configurations, but truthfully a fork with this much travel should really be run with the 15QR. If you’re still sitting on the fence thinking about going to 15QR, just stop thinking and go for it.

The last Fox 32 fork I reviewed was the 2010 32 Float 150. At that time it had the non-FIT damper, but this time around the Talas 32 runs a FIT damper cartridge. That in itself is a great feature to have on a fork. The FIT (Fox Isolated Technology) essentially runs a damper inverted with the single walled bladder holding all the suspension fluid. This prevents aeration (the production of tiny air bubbles) and improves the overall performance of the fork. First introduced back in 2005 on the 36 and 40 models in the RC2 dampers, the 32 FIT has benefited from all that development to now provide a 32 version with as little internal friction as possible.

Another big benefit that comes from inverting the damper is the location of the dials. Up top on the damper cartridge you have the low speed compression control, the lock-out adjust, and the lock-out lever. The rebound knob is located down below on the bottom of the fork leg, which makes more sense as the rebound setting is something that is changed less frequently, primarily only when tuning. The TALAS 2-step lever is located on the left leg, and in the middle of the lever is the rather stealthy air valve.

Installation

Installation of the Talas 32 150 RLC should only be attempted if you have the proper tools. With a price of about $880-$895 (depending on steering tube), you don’t want to screw things up and cut the steering tube too short. For this job you will need:

• Threadless saw guide
• Hacksaw
• Vise or stable bike stand
• Tape measure
• Lower race tool (length of aluminum pipe which fits over the lower race)
• Star nut tool
• Torque wrench
• Hex Keys

Begin the installation by removing your existing fork, being careful not to damage the brakes, shifters, or anything else you need to reuse. Once the old fork is off the bike, carefully remove the lower race and then measure the steering tube length. The measurement is taken from the face of the fork where the race fits to the end of the tube (be sure to check out our fork installation guide).

Once everything is installed it literally takes 5 minutes to set up the fork. I started setting sag by placing the fork at its 150 mm length and then playing with the pressure until I got 20% sag using 90 psi in the air spring. I ended up setting the fork with 4 clicks from soft on rebound, 10 clicks on the lock out, and 7 from soft for compression. I found that this combo worked great for the majority of terrain that I have ridden around Southern Ontario.

The Test

So what does Ontario offer? Well, depending on where you ride, there is soft, loamy terrain, slate, and some really rocky areas. It is definitely a great mixed-bag of terrain that is perfect for testing out any suspension.

I used the Talas on my 5.5″ Opus Crate, which is my go fast(ish) trail bike, so I use it for a variety of conditions. I have used the fork on step down drops of 6ft ± with smooth transitions, fast rolling terrain, and technical rocky sections. The Talas hasn’t let me down in any of those conditions.

I found that once I had tuned the fork it was almost a set-and-forget situation. Once the settings for compression and rebound were dialed in, the damper was so effective at keeping me in a good riding position that, aside from a few long climbs, I almost never used the lock-out. In spite of that, the lock-out is easy to get to with or without gloves.

On the technical climbs (usually the rocky ones) the Talas adjustments come into play nicely. Dropping the travel down from 150 mm to 120 mm steepens the head angle and lowers the center of gravity a bit more, allowing for a better position while climbing. Once the climb is over, the control knob on the Talas’s side is, again, easy to get to with or without gloves. Just remember to lean back a bit or cycle the fork to get the bike back into full travel.

The inverted FIT damper with the compression knobs up top, like its bigger cousin the 36 FIT, makes a lot of sense. I find that I tend to play around with the compression much more than rebound, so having the controls up top allows me to access it easily if I have to.

Based on my experience riding with the Talas, and having tested many forks in the past, I think that the 2012 Fox 32 Talas 150 FIT RLC provides superior performance! The fork offered good control over both the small bumps as well as the bigger hits… just what a fork like this is designed to do. The Kashima and low friction seals make a huge difference over older, non-Kashima coated forks. And the 15QR makes for hair-splitting precision steering, even when glancing off rocks. “Control over the wheel” should be the mantra here.

The buttery feeling of zero stiction, the precision tracking from the improved stiffness in the fork lowers due to the 15QR, and the positive click feel to the controls all enhance the performance and repeatability of this fork. But most importantly, take all the tech away, and what you have is a tool to enhance your ride that makes itself known to the rider.

The 32 Talas 150 FIT RLC is listed at $895 MSRP, though some places may sell them a little bit less. Check out Fox for more information and stay tuned for a write up on the RP23–coming soon!

I would like to thank Fox for sending down the Talas for review.

Interbike is a fascinating place, and if you ever get the chance to stroll through the booths you will find tons of fascinating products. Jeff and I were both really impressed with some of the things we saw, and at other times we were thoroughly unimpressed by some of the downright-ridiculous designs. We made sure to swing by most of our usual stops to chat with folks such as e*thirteen, Fox, iXS, Spank, SRAM, Shimano, Intense, Santa Cruz, Osprey, THE, and Easton. Interbike is seriously the greatest when it comes to getting a sneak peak at the latest gear and talking with your favorite riders.

e*thirteen

One of my first stops was at the e*thirteen booth. It’s hard to believe you can improve on such a great crank, but e*thirteen managed to squeeze 60 grams out of last year’s design by using an alloy axle and machining a little bit off the spider here and there. Not only did the crank just go through a weight reduction, but they also managed to change up the bottom bracket, making it more durable and easier to install.

Along with the cranks, there are two clever new pedals from e*thirteen: the LG1+ and LG1R. The pedals feature an alloy body, plates that attach to the pedal, and user-selectable 4mm or 7mm pins. The LG1R has titanium spindles and pins while the LG1+ features chromoly. The difference in weight between the two pedals is 88 grams (380g and 468g, respectively).

Race Face

Hard Goods

Race Face was at the show, but you had to look really hard to find their booth. Essentially the hard goods line-up has changed ever so slightly with the introduction of the Chester cranks. The Chester is basically Race Face’s entry-level DH crank, the Respond is their mid-level, and the Atlas is their top-tier DH crank.

Race Face is also getting ready to launch the SIXC, which is a new DH crank modified with a longer-than-average axle. The SIXC cranks will be lighter than the new XO DH coming out from SRAM and the rubber boots are a nice addition meant to save the crank ends from damage.

Soft Goods

I spent some time talking with Wendy from Race Face and she was proud to show off some of the clothing and protection that will be offered for next year. It looks like the trend is toward simple colors with large contrasting logos and neat argyle prints (kind of like the Singletracks jersey). Needless to say, Wendy (who also does the design work) has done a great job at making gear that will look cool for both men and women.

The new trend in MTB armor is softer, more flexible pieces and Race Face is on the ball with their Flank line-up. This soft wrap-around leg armor features a ton of excellent elements such as D3O on the impact points of the knee and shin and a Terry Cloth liner.

Stay tuned for more from RaceFace in the near future.

Niterider

A brilliant example of lighting at Interbike was Niterider. With all their lights out on display, this booth really was a beacon in a sea of bike gear. Niterider’s best and brightest, the Pro 3000 LED, uses 6 large Cree LEDs and a massive Li-Ion battery; the whole package retails for less than $700. Along with the top model, Niterider has a light for just about every budget, including both rechargeable and non-rechargeable units. I had a chance to talk with Tom, the founder of Niterider, and it seemed that we both shared the same passion for good lighting systems and the conviction that there really weren’t any good bike lights available when Niterider started out.

FSA

FSA was displaying all of their 2012 gear nearby and the smell of high quality, nicely-finished carbon saturated the booth. The K-Force and SL-K gear for the XC-Trail rider may be a good idea for those looking to save some weight. I really appreciated the extensive use of uni-directional carbon in the products that were on display. The cranks feature a spine of aluminum to keep things stiff along with the monocoque structure that you see. With other carbon goodies in the form of bars, seat posts and stems, FSA was out to impress.

Ritchey 29er

Despite not being a big 29er fan, I just had to stop and stare a while at this beautiful 29er by Ritchey. For one thing, I owned one way back in the day that was made by Tom Ritchey himself, and my bike had the same “America F*$@ ya” paint job. I kinda miss that bike, and this beautiful ride, although very modern, still has that classic look to it. I found myself wishing I had the cash to pick one up.

From the integrated seat post clamp, to the adjustable rear dropouts that allow you to go either singlespeed or geared, to the highly-polished look, this bike really is a stunner. It’s a steel frame and has a projected cost of $999 (frame only). Depending how you build it up, you can get weights down to 21lbs for a single or 23lbs if you’re going with gears.

THE

THE was showing off their new colors for this year’s T2, along with some cool armor and gear. There’s a decent mix of mild to wild color schemes for you.

Loaded Precision

Loaded Precision was showing off a few new components for this year with their signature series wheels and pedals. For those of you who are interested, they will have a 150mm rear axle available soon in addition to all the present wheel configurations… and in a variety of colors to really pimp your bike out. Anthony from Loaded also mentioned the growing number of products in their XC line-up, including some fire-red 29er wheels!

Topeak

Topeak was there showing off their vast array of pumps and gear. Some interesting additions included a new chain tool called the Link Meister which is geared toward serious users and shops. The head on the Link Meister adjusts so that you can get the pins out perfectly straight without messing things up, thanks to an adjustable shoulder which cradles the chain in the link separator. A really robust set of mud guards for suspension bikes caught Jeff’s eye as well as mine. It may have been sheer fascination about the whole idea, but I have to say they looked pretty sweet. I was thinking about tossing a pair on my DH bike…

For the Apple fanboys and fangirls out there, Topeak showed an iPhone 4 (and now iPhone 4S) compatible stem mount. Unlike the other iPhone handlebar mounts we’ve seen and used, this one put the phone front and center and leaves a cut-out for the phone’s camera. Not only can you use your iPhone as a GPS/cycling computer, now you can use it as a POV camera. Brilliant!

Randomness

When you go to Interbike, you will inevitably come across some oddities along with all the cool ideas. Below is one such product in the making (which type is it? that’s up to you). Still a prototype, this 4-wheeled pedal bike features full independent suspension using Rock Shox Monarchs. As Jeff and I chatted with the owners, we did see many places were weight could be removed. Presently this bike is pushing over 50lbs.

Azonic

Azonic proudly displayed the Outlaw wheels, which have been their staple product for many years and are now available in a 29er version and in an expanded color line. Along with that were bars and stems in the same color patterns for that perfect match.

Azonic has partnered up with O’neal to produce some cool looking threads and skid lids. Their focus seems to be all about color and a mix of retro patterns with modern graphics.

Twenty6

Before the show started, I got an invitation to visit Twenty6. Twenty6 is a small, high tech company that machines kick ass gear. Not only is the gear super slick, but they also have some rich color choices.

Below is just a sample of different color options. I’ll have a review written up soon on the Predator pedals, so stay tuned!

Pro Riders

Remember when I mentioned that Interbike offers access to celebrity riders? Well, great riders like Matt Hunter and Darren Berrecloth were at the iXS booth for a while signing posters and chatting it up.

I even got to spend a little while chatting with Matt. Having limited time, I just had to ask him how he did a particular jump in Seasons where he boosted off a kicker into a loose wall of dirt… it looked absolutely crazy! I got him to talk about how he felt going into it for the first time. It turns out a mix of confidence and fear with a bunch of adrenaline thrown in motivated him. I was really impressed to hear that he is human like the rest of us. Just in case you’re wondering, you can meet Matt in Whistler yourself during the summer months at the Summer Gravity Camp.

iXS

Speaking of iXS, they had a great line up of new 2012 gear on display. With a huge range of colors and improvements, I can’t wait to see when they will all be available. The new METIS shown below looks even better up close. The additional pad in back provides a perfect mating to a Leatt brace, and it provides excellent ventilation.

Not only does iXS make cool helmets, but they also produce a bunch of hemispherical goggles that really rock. They offer a dozen graphic styles to match or clash your helmets. iXS’s gloves and clothing are definitely something to behold. This is one website you must visit.

Spank

Spank had a bunch of shiny, new parts on display as well. They had a prototype stem that I thought looked absolutely amazing! The stem was beautifully CNC-machined, but I was told by Gavin Vos, the co-owner of Spank, that it is just a sample and that the final forged unit will be even stronger. The introduction of complete wheels from Spank also really peaked my interest. Even though I have no issues lacing up my own wheels, a complete solution with both hubs and rims is something I personally like.

The new Spike bar with another Spike stem prototype on display.

Speaking of Spike, stay tuned for a review of the new Spike pedals which, based on my initial rides, are excellent. These beasts have forged bodies with 20 pins on a true flat / thin body. How thin? 12mm to be exact. Not the thinnest, but in practical terms you can’t get much thinner without sacrificing strength.

In a previous post we talked a bit about wheels. Well, Spank has a few wheel sets bound to suit your riding style. The Spike and Spoon wheels look excellent with a bunch of innovative features like the BeadNip profile, the OhhBah inner wall, and zero eyelet construction. Again, Gavin explained why they decided to go without eyelets. They thought, “Why drill an extra large hole and add an eyelet, when precision drilling the holes with the correct angle will make a better interface and stronger wheel?”

Kore

Kore had a bunch of glossy parts out on display as well as a neat prototype of a new 35mm-diameter bar. They aren’t trying to set another standard just for the heck of it, but they reason that with bigger hit bikes, there is a real need for stronger gear that is more resistant to fatigue.

SRAM

One of my last Interbike stops was with SRAM. I talked with Tyler Morland for a while, and he showed off all the goodies to me. SRAM knows how to deliver! For one thing they had celebrities there with their bikes. Can you name the rider pictured below?

You know you done good when you have a tire named after you, like Danny Hart. Danny was around with his Giant showing off all the SRAM gear.

SRAM had all their components on display with new colors like the XO Silver, and there were other new additions to the line up like the XO DH chainring and bashguard.

Jeff and I both agree that the new X5 Group could be a game-changer next year. It looks like X9 but at a much lower price point. Tyler pointed out that essentially these two groups are the same and that the reduced pricing is a result of changes in materials. You will probably start seeing these on bikes in the $800 range – nice gear at a cheaper price point.

Shifting looks very X9ish as well.

The biggest story with SRAM is that you will have two more choices on gear for a total of 4 gear ranges for the chainrings: the original 42-28, 39-26, and now a lower 38-24 and an even lower 36-22. Another important set of products that SRAM will be releasing are easy-to-get repair kits for all your forks, shocks, and other gear.

Santa Cruz

The final stop that I had to make was Santa Cruz bikes. Like SRAM, you couldn’t miss this gorgeous booth with wall-to-wall wood and bike porn. Not to mention that Greg Minnar, Steve Peat, and Josh Bryceland were on hand as well.

Below are three of my favorite Santa Cruz bikes from the show:

The new carbon Nomad. This bike already was made even stronger than the aluminum version of the V10.

The new Carbon V10.

I got all goose-bumpy when I saw this rig! And to think that you can literally jump an entire highway with this bike and it’s still lighter than some XC bikes. What a testament to the strength found in newer carbon structures.

Santa Cruz Tallboy.

I have a lot of respect for this bike; the Tallboy is the bike that really turned me onto 29ers. A few people I know have this bike and they work magic on it–it climbs like a billy goat!

Well folks stay tuned for more – I hope to get a few more Interbike pics posted of even more sweet mountain bikes!

Mountain bike suspension manufacturers seem to have raised the bar yet again this year. Everyone from Fox and Rockshox to DT Swiss and Marzocchi to newcomer Formula was proud to show off their latest and greatest.

Fox Racing Shocks

Stopping off at Fox first, I spent some time talking with Josie Jacques-Maynes, an accomplished mountain bike racer in her own right, about their 2012 line up. Fox is splitting the line into three categories: Factory, Performance, and Evolution with Factory being the highest end with all the latest and greatest. The entire 2012 line up gets new SKF low friction seals which improve sensitivity. The rich Kashima coating still finds itself on all the Factory line forks and now on the RP23, RP2, DHX Air 5.0, and the DHX- RC4 shocks.

Fox is also coming out with an all new longer travel 29er fork for 2012. There are two versions: a Float with 140mm of travel or a TALAS with 110/140mm travel. Up close you can tell FOX took their time to evaluate this fork before bringing it to market with careful consideration to both weight and strength. Coming in at 4.54lbs (TALAS taper steerer 15QR) this fork is begging to be tossed on a Yeti SB95 or similar long-travel 29er.

Fox is also nearly ready to release their version of the dropper seat post. So far what is clear is that it will come in two sizes (30.9mm and 31.6mm) and will feature a remote lever (natch). Checking the test model I did the wiggle test and lo and behold, this one had nearly zero side-to-side play compared to others on the market. Am I waiting to test one… YES.

As for the rear shocks I am stoked on getting ready to give a full review on the 32mm TALAS and RP23 shocks. This year’s RP23 has what Fox calls Adaptive Logic which provides a greater range of ProPedal tuning and increases the Boost Valve effectiveness.

Fox previewed a new technology still early in development that uses any Android device or Garmin GPS along with a special pump (with built in ANT+) to set up the fork. First you scan the QR code on the fork , then hook up the pump and the app tells you what to do next. Seems like a neat concept for setting up the fork correctly. The program even gives you recommended compression and rebound settings. This unfortunately is still under development but if executed well I can see it helping many riders get their suspension set up right.

Rockshox

Swinging by Rockshox and talking with Tyler Morland about everything SRAM, we went through all the numerous tweaks that Rockshox has made for 2012. Lower friction damper cartridges, Keronite on the top models, and tapered carbon steering tubes are just the start of what Rockshox has to offer this year. The really big news for Rockshox is the expanded offerings in the 29er markets. You can now get your hands on a SID, Reba, Recon, Revelation, and the lower cost XC versions for big wheel rigs. With travel options from 80-140mm, Rockshox is making sure you’re covered.

The all new Motion Control DNA damper cartridge is lighter and features greater adjustability and improved sensitivity. For all you gram counters, the lightest 29er SID weighs in at just 1450 grams – pretty damn light for sure. Jeff has posted a few articles about longer travel 29ers bikes and the Revelation 29er with its 32mm uppers and 20mm maxle will surely find its way onto many a Trail 29er soon.

On the longer travel side of things, the Lyrik gets major upgrades with a choice of a BoXXer-derived Mission control DH damper, a Dual position air system that will drop the travel down 30mm in just one 110°degree sweep, or the BoXXer-style solo air spring. Stiff 35mm stanchions and three choice of steering tubes will  round things out. The BoXXer gets tweaked as well with further improvements to sensitivity as well as some weight savings with the lowers coated in Keronite rather than paint. The Keronite is a very hard uniform surface, much like a ceramic compound which helps reduce weight while keeping strength high.

At Rockshox it doesn’t end with new forks. The photo above says it all. There are now white color options on the Monarch and Monarch Plus shocks and even a new carbon option on the Monarch which gets some versions below 200 grams. The Monarch Plus is now available and will pair nicely with a Lyric on those longer travel Trail or AM bikes.

Another new item from Rockshox this year is the Kage rear shock. The Kage matches the Domain series of forks and is a lower priced option to the Vivid line up. The Kage RC has pre-load, compression, and rebound adjustments and comes in at 402 grams (no hardware and no spring, 216mm length).

DT Swiss

DT Swiss also made an appearance at Interbike this year to show off their suspension tech. The forks all have a very uniform look to them which could be a bit confusing but other than that you’re looking at a solid choice. For one thing the XRC 100 Single shot comes in at just 1170 grams with a carbon steering tube (with an unique internal rib for stiffness). The lowers are carbon as well with a reverse arch much like Manitou forks. The biggest fork is DT’s EXM 150 coming in at 1675 grams.

The EXM 150 features a magnesium lower with a polished center bridge called the torsion box. Controls on the EXM are much like many platforms with a threshold control and independent rebound and compression circuit adjustment (Launch Control). The ABS (Auto Balance System) is used for the damper which makes it easy to set up the air spring. The positive and negative air chambers set themselves automatically.

DT Swiss also offers the incredibly light XR carbon rear shock. At its shortest length, 165mm, you have a shock that is 142 grams. Pretty crazy but yeah, talk about light. The XR also gets a new air spring with the same ABS platform as the forks for precise set up. What I find unique about this shock is the threaded carbon canister. To date I believe this is the only carbon component that has threads right in the material. Using an aluminum damper shaft for the rest of the construction and carefully placed seals should keep this damper working for some time.

Manitou

Unfortunately Manitou was not at Interbike this year but they have a few refinements on the Dorado and R7. The big news for them is the release of the Marvel, the first for Manitou with a QR15, using the familiar hex that has been used successfully on their 20mm through axles. In addition to the Marvel, a tuning kit is being offered that will allow everyday riders to tune their suspension to perfection. For the rear suspension a tweaked Revox shock is coming this year. Stay tuned for a review on that soon!

Formula

Formula is making a debut this year with their very own fork design using 33mm stanchions for a good mix of stiffness and weight savings. Add to that a pull spring for small bump compliance and a main air spring for the bigger bumps and this promises a sensitive shock. The display models were QR9 with post mounts and it wasn’t clear if a 15QR is on the way. What you can see in the cutaway is the thin lowers and even the lower DU bushing, all designed to keep things as light as possible.

Marzocchi

Marzocchi was at the show showing off their latest line of extensive forks along with a display of legacy fork models. The line up has been revamped with new models and changes in the damper cartridges. The new Corsa Superleggera Carbon 29er fork features a one-piece tapered steering tube / upper crown and a weight that rivals some 26er forks at 1650 grams. This fork offers three travel lengths (80, 100, and 120mm) and is internally adjustable using a new hydraulic travel adjust system (Switch TA) that works completely independent of the damping system. Relying on hydraulics, the optional travel change of 40mm (on the 55 series) or 30mm (on the 44 series) automatically re-extends without pulling back up on the bars.

On the bigger side of things, the 66 hasn’t changed much over the last year, but the 888 RC3 Evo gets a new and improved cartridge and finally a 4-bolt mounting system for the stem.  The Roco line up of rear shocks sees a color change, now in black to tone things down a bit.

Unfortunately we didn’t have enough time to check out everyone at the show – we missed Suntour and X-Fusion – but hopefully next year we will stop by and check that out for you. Stay tuned for more coverage from Interbike!

Not everyone can afford the latest and greatest all the time. But if you find that you’re in need of a rebuild on your older 2005-2008 or 2009-2011 Fox 40 and want the best Fox has to offer, have I got news for you!  Fox was cool enough to contact me to see if I wanted to pimp someone’s 40 for them. One of my good riding buddies happened to have popped the diaphragm on his 2010 fork after one too many flat landings, making him the perfect candidate for an upgrade.

After considerable riding time, all Fox 40 forks start to lose plushness and exhibit increased stiction which affects sensitivity and increases harshness. This can be due to contamination of the fluids and minor loss of lube over time, not to mention the wear associated with thousands of cycles of compression and rebound. Needless to say, my buddy Chris was super stoked for the pimped out parts!

With an upgraded inverted cartridge, Chris is getting a host of improvements, the most obvious of which is the repositioning of the compression knobs (now on top). Internally the cartridge is more reliable which reduces the chance of bladder cap bending and bladder blow outs.

Performance-wise the new cartridge puts the weight of the oil and cartridge body on the top of the fork which reduces sprung weight. Because of the new placement of these parts, the bump force does not need to overcome that weight to start absorbing the actual bump. This improves fork sensitivity.

For this task the following FOX parts must be ordered:

2005-2008 40′s: 820-08-126-kit  Service Set: Inverted 40 RC2 05-08 Retro Cartridge Assy Complete
2009-2012 40′s: 820-08-092-kit Service Set: 2011 40 RC2 Cartridge Assy Complete ($450)
SKF 40 seals part# 803-00-616 Info to pass on below. ($35.00)
2005-2008 40′s: 208-03-056 Kashima Stanchion tubes x2 ($300 for a set of two)
2009-2012 4o’s:  208-03-056 Kashima Stanchion tubes x2 ($300 for a set of two)
Fox Float fluid

And here’s the tool list you’ll need for the job:

32mm 6pt socket
1.5,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,10mm Hex key set.
10mm deep socket
15mm open socket
7,12,15,16mm wrench
10-18mm cone wrenches (thin)
13,14mm crowfoot
Pick
Plastic hammer
Screwdriver
Torque wrench
Extensions
Graduated liquid container
20cc syringe
Cleaning solution
Micro towel

I would also highly recommend a flashlight and a repair stand to do the work on.

Start off the job by clearing out a work area and have all your supplies with you. Safety glasses would be a good idea, especially when dealing with fluids and cleaners.

First, remove the front wheel and brake. Carefully remove the 4 pinch bolts on the axle using a 5mm hex key. The caliper follows next with the same 5mm hex key; remove the cable guide using a 2.5mm hex key and re-mount the guide (it’s small and can easily be misplaced).

At this point there should be nothing attached to the lower assembly so it is safe to remove the stanchions from the upper and lower crowns. Loosen the six bolts that hold the upper and lower crown assembly to the stanchions using a 5mm hex key. Once they are all loose, slide the stanchions from the upper and lower crown. If you find them to be a bit snug, use a brake tool (those little plastic spacers that people usually discard) and tap them in the pinch space (trust me it works great). The stanchions should slide out very easily. Just remember to catch the two bumpers and more importantly, remember to put them back.

Now that the fork is removed, it needs a good cleaning before you go any further. You don’t want any contamination to enter the fork when working so a good cleaning product like Bike Super Wash from Finishline should do the trick. Use an old tooth brush and get into the hard-to-reach spots around the lower assembly to get all the grime that may have collected. After drying everything with a lint-free cloth, release any spring tension on the coil side by backing out the the pre-load.

Place the spring stanchion in your bike stand and make sure you’re not scratching anything (wrap the stanchion once with a cloth). Since you’re replacing both stanchions and the damper cartridge you only need the guts out of the spring side. Using the 32mm 6pt socket, remove the top cap (counter clockwise). Note how many spacers were placed directly under the top cap and use a pick to pull out the damper spring.

On the bottom of the fork use a 6pt 1omm socket and loosen the bolt that holds the plunger shaft about 3 threads, then give it a tap or two with a soft face hammer to loosen it up. Get ready to catch the 40ml of oil that will drain out from the fork lowers.

After the fluid drains, set the lowers aside and wipe down the bottom half of the spring side.Using a pick and small screwdriver (or second pick), carefully remove the spring clip that holds the plunger shaft assembly in place. I use the second screwdriver to pry the spring out of the groove while the pick rotates around moving the spring clip. Once it is off, save the plunger assembly and spring clip.

Place the new stanchion in the stand carefully (again wrapped with cloth or the packaging material that it came in) groove side up first. Install the plunger assembly and spring clip. The clip should go in easily – just carefully work it in with a circular motion using the pick as a guide. Turn the stanchion thread side up and install the spring and spacers (remembering the order in which they were removed). Then install the top adjuster assembly. Us a bit of Fox Float fluid on the O-ring to prevent it from binding. Torque down the top cap to 24 Nm and set aside for final assembly.

With the remainder of the fork (old damper cartridge and lowers), you now can place the damper side of the stanchion in the repair stand.

Remove the protective cover from the compression tuning knobs and remove them using a 2.5mm hex key. After that, use a 15mm deep socket to loosen the bottom nut.

With the nut loosened about 3 threads, reinstall the cover and tap that with a soft face hammer until the damper shaft comes loose (get ready to catch the fluid). There will be about 40ml of fluid in that space that will need to be caught before you can separate everything. Remove the nut fully and you’re done with the damper unit.

Clean up the fork lowers using a bike cleaning spray and remove any residue. Once clean you can now proceed by removing the seals and foam O-rings. I use a pry bar (basically a wide screwdriver) covered in cloth to protect the finish of the fork.

After a bit more cleaning I soak the O-rings in Float fluid and carefully place them in the fork, followed by the new low-friction seal. To install the seal I use a bottom bracket tool that happens to fit snugly around the seal without damaging the seal itself. The most important thing is to avoid bending or physically touching the seal lip and spring. You could even use a PVC tube of close diameter here. Whichever method you use, be sure the seals go in as straight as possible.

With the new damper cartridge, remove the top screw that holds the two compression adjusters, and set it aside temporarily (do not tip it over or that small detent ball in the photo above will drop out). Remove the lower cap and the red rebound knob using a 2.5mm hex key. Then apply a light coating of Fox Float fluid to the damper cartridge O-ring. Thread the cartridge into the new Kashima-coated stanchion all the way down (don’t worry about torque yet). Place the assembled unit in a bike stand (protecting the coating with a rag or packaging material), and use the 32mm 6pt socket to torque the cap to 24 Nm. Install the adjusters and single tapered bolt. The adjusters are indexed so be careful to match things up – the single tapered bolt uses 1.5 Nm max, so use caution.

At this point you should have two complete stanchions and a lower crown assembly with new seals. Install the damper cartridge on the right side (the arch of the fork is forward) and the spring side stanchion on the left. With both ends it is critical to carefully install each stanchion with a twisting motion, so that you do not fold the lip of the seal. A bit of Fox Float fluid on the seal itself and the stanchion will work great at eliminating any chance of the seal grabbing.

Once each one is in I temporarily place the bottom nuts in place until I can fix the whole unit on the bike. With a friend and those plastic brake shims installed, carefully reinstall the stanchions back into the fork crowns. Now remember to slide the frame bumpers on before sliding the stanchion into the upper fork crown. At this point you can also feed your cabling as well. Once you have the stanchions in place, remove the shims and line up the stanchions.

This is a good time to use a quality measuring tool to get both sides in place at the right heights. By adjusting the height you can also slightly adjust the steering angle. With a near-flush stanchion to the top crown you have a slightly shallower head angle for more stability at higher speeds. With 10mm of stanchions over the deck of the upper crown you have a steeper head angle which is better for tighter situations. Torque the bolts to 7.28 Nm and while you’re there, set the bumpers and double check the torque on the adjuster caps.

Turn the bike and fork upside down and fill each leg with 50ml of 10wt Fox green suspension fluid or equivalent. Then place the new washers supplied with the seals and torque the bottom nuts to 5.6Nm. Lastly, install the red rebound knob using a 2.5mm hex key.

With the bike upright, install your wheel and front brake. Remember to torque all the bolts and do a once-around check to make sure you didn’t miss anything.

Was all this work worth it? From the very first time we compressed the chamber we noticed a massive change in the fork. Talk about buttery. I personally hate using food as an analogy for bike performance but.. buttery smooth it is. My good buddy Chris ended up taking his bike literally from my shop at home to a Pennsylvania bike park within 24 hours.

Here’s what Chris has to say about the upgrades:

The test venue for the fork upgrade was Seven Springs Bike Park located just outside of Sommerset, Pennsylvannia.  (The park) has a diverse selection of trails from the ever so fun “Aline” type trail aka “007″ to faster rocky tech trails such as “EC” designed by top rider Eric Carter, to some pretty gnar trails such as “Frankenstein” which was littered with huge rock gardens and decent sized rock drops.

Before the first ride, the high and low speed compression knobs were set in the middle positions at 11 of 22 and 13 of 26 clicks respectively. I normally run with only two to three clicks of preload which is just enough to make sure the spring is not loose. Rebound to me is the hardest setting to get “dialed” as it should be fast for bashing through rocks without pack-up but slow enough to cushion big hits without bucking you off of your bike like a wild horse after landing something big.  The best starting point for rebound is in the center position (10 out of 20 clicks).

The first trail I rode was a perfect test for the fork which was a flowy trail called 007 with tons of jumps and big berms and even a few rock sections.   This trail was great for getting a feel for all aspects of the fork set-up.

During the first run of the day I totally forgot about the new fork by the end of the trail.  It felt so good that I got lost in the moment and joy of riding.  Once the utter awe of amazement wore off I took a few more runs down 007 paying more attention to the fork settings and honestly the fork was set up pretty bang on for the most part and there (were) only a few things to slightly adjust.

The high speed compression was set a bit soft with the bike slightly diving into the front travel a bit too much on rougher landings and drops. After a few more test runs I was confident (in) my observations and I cranked the high speed dampening up maybe 4-5 clicks which now was set at (14 out of 22). After getting the high speed compression set, adjusted, and tested out for a few runs I felt as if I could use an ever so slight increase in response from the rebound. 3 clicks faster seemed to do the trick (so now 13 out of 20 clicks towards fast rebound).  The low speed compression was pretty bang on in the center position. I tried adding a few clicks of dampening from the center, as well as taking a few clicks off but I really liked the feel of the fork with it set exactly in the center position (13 out of 26 clicks)

One thing I really liked about the 2012 fork parts compared with the 2010 (is) the revised damper cartridge. I find that I like to adjust my high and low speed compression far more often than my rebound. Riding at different places often times requires slightly different compression settings  depending upon the terrain.  On this version of the fork the high and low speed knobs are located right at the top of the stanchion which makes adjustment an ease.  The knobs are buttery smooth to turn and the clicks are very pronounced.

Thanks to the folks at FOX for sending up the parts for the modifications.

For gravity-oriented mountain bikers, the Fox DHX RC4 should already be familiar. But if you’re just starting to get serious about DH mountain biking, read on to learn about this essential upgrade.

The DHX is your top level rear shock from Fox with more features than you can shake a stick at. For the techie rider you’ll love playing with this unit to get it to do exactly what you want. With 15 rebound settings, 18 low speed compression settings, and 12 high speed compression settings (plus 4 turns of bottom out control), this shock is all business.

The Fox DHX RC4 is a high performance, racing-oriented rear shock designed to give you complete freedom to set up and control your rear wheel. Fox spent a ton of time dialing the shock in and incorporating their Boost Valve technology and the latest Boost Valve implementation features speed-sensitive dampening control over the last third of the shock travel. This means the shaft speed of the shock determines the amount of dampening you get as you approach the end of the shock travel. So those big drops and rock gardens that are your nemesis now become non-issues. Working in parallel with the Boost Valve are the two compression circuits (high and low speed) and the rebound circuit, providing precise control over the rear end of your bike.

With all those potential adjustments, setting up the RC4 takes a bit of time (it gets easier the more you do it). You’ll want to make sure you have a reference spring rate before you get started – check with Fox or your frame manufacturer if you’re not sure. My Opus Nelson with 7 inches of wheel travel and a shock travel of 2.75 inches has a leverage ratio of approximately 2.54. So being 200lbs with gear and knowing I gotta stop that mass in about 2.3 inches (to prevent excessive bottoming) plus the fact that my previous spring felt a bit too soft, I went with a 450lb spring (200lb x 2.3″= 460lb/inch approximately). With this spring I use very little pre-load which is a good thing. I opted for the titanium version to keep the weight down on my bike, though steel springs are much more affordable and cost about $30 each.

Once the spring was in and installed correctly (make sure the ends of the spring are seated on the lower retainer and not in the gap), I set the sag according to the table in the owner’s manual. From there I headed to the slopes at Blue Mountain and the flowy Haole trail with a 2.5mm and 3mm allen key for some fine tuning. I have a checklist I use for setting up my shocks starting with low speed compression, high speed compression, then rebound. After those are set I work on the extras like Boost Valve.

The Haole trail at Blue Mountain features sections of slow rises and falls as well as mildly rooted sections and a few small jump features. There are also some sweeping berms and switchbacks which are perfect for configuring low speed compression settings. So after a few runs I ended up going with 10 turns back from full +ve. After I was happy with that setting I concentrated on the high speed compression. Going to another slope with squared edged rocks and heavily rooted sections I sessioned Waterfall and O-chute (black diamond and double black diamond runs). This is a perfect workout for any shock and I ended up with a setting of  6 from full +ve. Finally I turned my attention to the rebound which I had been playing with throughout the day and finally settled on 8 from full +ve. Tweeking the Boost Valve to get just the right amount of rise on the spring rate I ended up with 1.5 turns back from full-in.

So how did the DHX RC4 do? Well, so far this is my favorite coil shock I’ve ridden. It’s very smooth and produces virtually zero sticktion. Plus I can feel everything on the slope with this shock.

At one point I did back-to-back runs with the RC4 installed on my FR bike and my DH bike and found this shock allowed my FR bike to give my DH bike a run for its money. Sure it would have been a better test to use identical bikes but knowing both bikes very well I could say that the traction off the back on my FR bike was superior. The RC4 produced smoother tracking in the rear end compared to the banging I felt on the other bike. I found I could really toss the bike deeper and faster into corners with the rear end hooking up nicely.

I would definitely recommend the DHX RC4 for anyone upgrading their rig or planning on stepping up their game on the race circuit. For $585 MSRP for the shock plus $30 for a steel spring you’re getting a world-class rear shock well worth the coin for your AM-DH rig.

I would like to thank the folks at FOX for sending up the 2011 DHX RC4 for review.

Back in March I post an On Test article where I covered the technology packed inside the 100mm Fox F29 Terralogic suspension fork.  Now that I’ve put a bunch of miles in I’m ready to post my final review.  Did it live up to the performance claims and marketing hype?  Is Terralogic the next best thing since sliced bread?  Read on to find out.

Install and Set Up

Installing the fork was easy – no issues.  The crown race pressed on nicely, the brake mount was faced, and the threads were clean and smooth.  This was my first time using a thru-axle, and Fox’s 15mm QR was very easy to set up and use.  The axle slides in on the left side through the fork leg and hub and into the right fork leg.  In the right fork leg there’s a nut the axle threads into.  You thread it in until it starts to snug up, then flip the lever closed.  How that nut is positioned will determine the orientation of the lever.  You should set the nut up so that when you close the lever it is pointed up parallel to the fork leg, easy to use but tucked up out of the way.  Once you get this dialed, it will always close in the same position, and it’s very easy and fast to install or remove the axle.  No tools are needed to remove or install the wheel in the fork.

How this nut is positioned in the drop out determines the QR lever’s position when it’s closed.  That black clip holds it in place, making the Fox QR15 a tool-free thru-axle.

To get the fork’s suspension settings the way I wanted I first turned the Terralogic function off (more on Terralogic later) and used the air pressure guide in the owner’s manual as a starting point for setting the sag and spring rate.  The guide was pretty accurate – I ended up using only about 5psi more than it suggested for my weight.  Next I set up the rebound.  I wanted the fork to rebound quickly, but not so quick that it seemed like it was fighting back.  My initial rebound setting turned out to be a little too slow (too much rebound dampening) and the fork packed down on repeated high speed hits. With a few turns of the red knob on top of the right leg, everything was gravy.  I settled on 5 clicks from full fast (there are 15 settings).

The red knob on top of the right fork leg adjusts rebound.  The air valve is hidden beneath the blue knob on top of the left fork leg.  An o-ring on the left fork leg lets you see how much travel you are using.

Lastly I set up the Terralogic threshold. I found a steep hill in my neighborhood and hammered up it out of the saddle. With the Terralogic knob in position 1 the feature is basically turned off so the fork bobbed a lot.  I started dialing up the Terralogic until I got no more bob, which for me was position 9 of 15.  Then it was time to load up and head to the trails!

Terralogic is adjusted using the knob on the bottom of the right fork leg.  It’s not easy to get to while riding, but doesn’t need to be.  It is a set-it and forget-it setting.

Terralogic on the Trail

I have a hard time explaining how the Terralogic feels when riding.  The problem is this: it doesn’t feel like anything.  You never notice it working, locking or unlocking the fork – it just does it.  When you’re out of the saddle climbing there is no bob.  When you push down on the pedal all of your effort goes to turning the cranks, not compressing the fork.  When you hit a bump the fork soaks it up.  It climbs with the efficiency of a rigid fork, but glides over rough terrain like a suspension fork.  It’s pretty awesome really.  And when the fork locks or unlocks you can’t feel it.  There is no clicking noise, or vibration, or anything.  It just happens.

When you first get on the bike the fork will sit down into its sag like any fork will.  But then the Terralogic keeps it locked there until you hit a bump hard enough to overcome the threshold you have set.  At speed, that means any bump bigger than what your tires can’t smooth out on their own. At low speed however, sometimes the fork won’t soak up stuff that a normal fork would.  If you hit something hard when climbing it will soak it up, then lock out again.  It does all of this without you ever needing to flip a switch or turn a dial.  Just ride.

The Terralogic setting is something you’ll rarely need to adjust – I left mine on the same setting 95% of the time.  I did soften it up by 1 click when I did the Snake Creek Gap Time Trials though, because the course is super technical with an 8-mile long rock garden.  I went 1 click stiffer for a 10-mile XC race and a few local 3-mile time trials because I knew I’d be out of the saddle really hammering hard a lot.  Other than those few rides I left it alone.

No bob, even when hammering out of the saddle.

On my other suspension fork (a Manitou Tower Pro) I have to use a lot of compression dampening and a really high spring rate to keep it from bobbing when I’m out of the saddle.  That doesn’t work all that well as far as soaking up trail irregularities – the fork is a lot stiffer than it needs to be.  But Terralogic allows you to use a softer spring rate for more plushness without losing any pedaling efficiency.

Bump Compliance

The faster you go the better this fork feels.  The compression dampening feels a little slow at low speed, but once you pick up some steam the fork feels great.  It’s super smooth on medium to big hits, and never bottomed out hard enough for me to notice. In years past Fox forks were known for not using all of their travel, well not anymore – I used all 100mm every ride.  The F29 doesn’t do a great job at smoothing out small bumps, or ‘chatter’, however.  To improve small bump compliance Fox has started using a different seal/wiper on their 2012 forks – and the new parts will fit many older forks as well.

Stiffness

This fork is plenty stiff for XC and trail riding.  I never felt any flex under braking or cornering.  The thru-axle does an incredible job of stiffening things up for cornering – it’s noticeably better than a standard 9mm quick release.  It’s a night and day difference, way more so than I expected.  There is a much more “connected” feeling between the handlebars and the tire’s contact patch on the ground.  The front wheel doesn’t get knocked off line as easily either, and this is especially noticeable on mid-corner bumps.  I really noticed the difference when I went back to another fork with a standard quick release axle after riding this Fox fork for several months.  The standard axle felt like the front wheel was trying to fold over when pushing hard into corners. It actually scared me and I stopped several times to check and make sure everything was tight!

I don’t ever want another suspension fork without a thru-axle – the added stiffness and control is amazing.

Other Good Stuff

The gold Kashima coated stanchions are really good looking, and they are slick!  They’re very easy to wipe off.  The coating is durable too:  I’ve got no scratches at all, the stanchions still look brand new.  I also really like the brake hose routing, and the bolt-on guide that keeps the hose in place.  The fork holds air extremely well:  I never needed to top mine off.  I checked the pressure after about three months of use just to see if it had lost any air, and it was still good.  All adjustment knobs are decked out in anodized aluminum, no cheap plastic here.

The QR lever is strong and beefy, and actually takes less force to close than a regular 9mm quick release.

The Bad

For starters, this isn’t the lightest fork out there so weight weenies beware. Also the seals on top of the fork chassis aren’t the greatest – I started getting oily grease on my stanchions after about 400 or so miles.  I didn’t notice any change in performance, but if left alone for too long there could be issues.  Fox’s seals have been one of the few areas of complaints about their forks – hopefully the new seals will be better.

Speaking of seals, the Terralogic knob could use an o-ring seal or something.  Since it’s located at the bottom of the fork and is shaped like a thimble it can fill up with mud (which dries to rock hard dirt) and makes it difficult to turn the knob.  It happened to me after one of the Snake Creek Gap races – I had to remove the knob and knock the dirt out.

To some this fork may seem expensive. Although it’s not out of line when compared to the top end offerings from other suspension companies, still, $900 is a lot of money.  Of course, the best is never cheap – you gotta pay to play!  That being said, this is a great fork, and whether it’s a good value or not is something everyone will have to answer for themselves.

For 2012 Fox is using new seals which will hopefully keep this from happening.  I have some Enduro seals coming in the mail, so look for a How-To article and a review later this summer.

Who is it for?

This is a fantastic fork for the right type of rider who doesn’t mind paying for performance.  I don’t think the Terralogic would work well on a full suspension bike; it might feel unbalanced unless the rear suspension had a similar auto-lockout feature like Specialized Brain equipped bikes.  Those of you who like to sit and spin your way up the climb, you don’t need the Terralogic function either, so check out the less expensive Fox RLT version of the F29 instead.  But for hardtail XC racers, single speed riders, and anyone who likes to get out of the saddle and hammer – you’ll love this fork.

See it in action!

Want to see for yourself how well the Terralogic works?  Check out this short video clip I took riding at the Long Cane Horse Trails.  The first part of the clip is mostly climbing – notice how there is little to no pedal-induced movement when I’m out of the saddle, yet it still soaks up bumps.  The last part of the clip is going downhill, with a bit of full-on panic braking at the very end to keep from missing a turn.

I would like to thank Fox Racing Shox for providing this fork to review.

FOX is one of those companies that doesn’t stop tinkering. Every year for the past few years I have seen improvement upon improvement and this year is no exemption. The shiny new 2011 36 TALAS FIT RC2 180 is exactly what I am talking about, with a host of improvements and brand new features. In fact, this is the first year FOX has produced a much needed 180mm version of the fork.

Tech and Features

First, the most obvious features: a new lower leg assembly and Kashima coated stanchions. The upper crown and hidden longer stanchions aren’t as obvious but they’re equally important. FOX wanted to make sure the TALAS was as bullet-proof as possible so they added extensions below the axle in the lower housing to allow room for the stanchions under full compression. The thinking is they wanted to spread the bushings as far apart as possible to better manage twisting and torsional forces.

Each model in the RC2 lineup features an all-new FIT RC2 inverted damper for consistent damping performance and reliability. The new FIT RC2 damper lowers un-sprung weight which essentially allows the fork to react more quickly for better steering control. The internal single-wall bladder has been engineered to hold all the fluid and provides consistent, fade-free damping by preventing the fluid from aerating. The inverted design offers the same range of adjustability as standard but the compression adjusters have been moved to the top of the stanchion for convenience. The rebound control, which is a set-and-forget kind of item, is now located on the bottom of the fork.

The TALAS 36 180mm has an incredibly large amount of bushing overlap. A look at the new below-axle tube design give you a hint of what had to be done to create this extremely stiff chassis. The upshot is Fox offers the lowest axle-to-crown distance available in a 180 mm fork. The RC2 model pictured comes with Kashima coated stanchions which provides nearly stiction-free performance for quicker suspension response and improved durability (longer life). The two step adjustable travel on the new 36 TALAS, with its ergonomically-pleasing TALAS lever, makes it super easy (even with gloves on) to toggle between 180mm to 140mm of travel.

Installation

Installing the TALAS is pretty much like any other fork – just remember to measure twice and cut once. The tapered head tube can be cut with either a pipe cutter (with a fresh blade) or with a Park SG-6 Threadless Saw Guide and saw (my method of choice). Install the star nut and lower race and you’re pretty much good to go (always torque the bolts to the manufacturer’s recommendations).

Dialing it in

After the fork is installed on the bike it’s time to get things dialed in. As I mentioned before, the controls on the new TALAS are not the same as older units which speeds up the entire process. Remove the center dust cap on the left leg, making sure you’re at full travel, and set the pressure so you have 25-30% sag and that’s about it for the air spring. If for whatever reason the o-ring is missing, place a tie wrap to get your reference point. There should be about 45mm of sag. After dialing the sag I started working on compression and rebound settings. Keep in mind I am 200lb with gear, armor, and shoes so my pressure was set at 74 psi.

Low speed compression is set using the smaller inside blue knob on the right fork leg. When setting the low speed compression you’re looking for the balance point where you can hit the brakes or accelerate without having the front of your bike dive or excessively move. Ride hard and hit the brakes, noting how much the bike pitches forward. You don’t want the bike to blow through the travel but at the same time you don’t want the fork to stay rigid. Ultimately you need the fork to follow the trail as closely as possible. I ended up setting the LSC to 9 clicks from full (+).

For me the high speed compression (top outer blue knob) took more work to get just right and I ended up sessioning a few jumps to get it dialed in. Most riders will probably only need to set this once after finding a satisfactory amount of control. Adjust your high speed compression setting so the fork doesn’t blow through its entire travel too quickly when taking a big hit (active word here is BIG). Keep adding damping until you have a controlled fork compression without the fork eating up all its travel and bottoming out (stopping abruptly in its internal bump stop). You will know you have too much high speed compression when you feel your wrists compress and an uncomfortable amount of force travels through your body on impact. I ended up with 9 clicks from full (+) to get the HSC where I wanted it.

Rebound is the next setting to manipulate and you can also do this one on the trail. Here you’re looking for a controlled return to ride height after the fork compresses. You don’t want the fork to feel like it’s a bucking bronco, tossing you off the bike on return (too much rebound) nor do you want the fork to come up so slow that it feels like the fork is losing travel over multiple bumps (too little rebound). My rebound setting was smack in the middle at 9 clicks from full (+).

Performance on the trail

So how did the FOX TALAS 36 perform? For a 180mm fork I noticed the initial bit of travel is very plush and then ramps up a bit mid stroke to end stroke. This actually works great because it absorbs a lot of the small trail chatter and unevenness that could cause the wheels to slip. Speaking of slip, the huge stanchion and bushing overlap really keeps this fork stiff and tracking where you want it.

Tracking through rock gardens is cruise-missile-like – even those hard-to-traverse round rocks that are sometimes tossed in the trail “just for fun. Height adjustment also works flawlessly. At Blue Mountain I ran the fork on my Nelson back to back with my other DH rig and found I actually gained a second on some runs, probably due to the greater control I found in the corners. Compared to last year’s TALAS the controls are easier to use and the 40mm drop on the front for most bikes is just about right to make you want to tackle that climb rather than hike-a-bike.

Now if you’re looking to lose some weight with a buttery smooth outta-the-box kinda fork with adjustable travel from 180mm – 140mm of travel, then test ride the FOX TALAS today. And if you’re a female rider who wants a truly kick butt setup, the TALAS gives you a lightweight front end and 180mm of travel yet still turns very well. The great thing is that the TALAS comes in 4 flavors that just might fit the bill if you’re in the need of a fork that’s 160mm+ for your AM-DH bike. At $1090 MSRP this is not the cheapest option out there but it’s a solid purchase for sure.

Overall ratings (out of 10)

Tracking and steering	9.0
Rebound control	9.5
Compression control	8.5
Construction and quality	8.0
Trail worthy 1 For light XC, 10 For extreme FR/DH	9.5
Overall performance quality out of 10	9.0

I would like to thank FOX for sending out the TALAS for a review.

I just received two very cool products to test and review: the 2011 Fox F29 Terralogic fork and a WTB LaserDisc Trail 29 wheelset.  In this post I’ll go over the technical nitty gritty of the products and what they promise to do.  There is a lot of technology and engineering in both the wheels and fork, so I’m just going to cover the basics.  After I have some time to thrash ride them, I’ll let you know if they deliver on those promises or not.  Okay, let’s get on with it!

Fox Racing Shox F29 Terralogic Fork

SPECS
Travel: 100mm (also available in an 80mm)
Dropout: 15QR (standard 9mm option also available; only the 100mm version has the 15QR option)
Steerer: Straight 1-1/8″
Weight: 1.88kg (uncut steerer, includes axle, brake hose guide, and star nut)
Damper: FIT
Other: Terralogic option; Kashima coated stanchions; adjustable rebound
MSRP: About $850-$910 depending on options

What does all that mean?  Let’s start with the FIT damper.  FIT is an acronym for Fox Isolated Technology.  It’s a cartridge style damper, meaning the oil is sealed inside a bladder, not free to move around inside the fork leg like an open bath damper.  The FIT damper uses less oil and is lighter and eliminates aeration (air bubbles in the oil).  All of this should mean a fork that works consistently even when it gets hot toward the bottom of a long gnarly downhill.

That gold Kashima coating on the stanchions is about a lot more than pretty looks.  It’s a Fox-exclusive coating that, compared to standard hard-anodized stanchions, is not only harder for more durability and scratch resistance, but also much smoother, for less friction.  There is some variation to the color of the coating, so any two forks may have different looks, and in fact the color can vary from one fork leg to another.  This coating is only available on aftermarket forks.

The 15QR thru-axle has been improved for 2011 over previous versions.  It’s now 21g lighter with no decrease in stiffness.  Compared to the standard 9mm QR axle, the 15QR thru-axle gives a much stiffer connection between fork legs, minimizing flex and improving steering precision.  Of course a thru-axle hub is required and these days many hub manufacturers sell thru-axle conversion kits so getting a new fork doesn’t necessarily mean needing a new front hub.  This will be my first experience with a thru-axle and I’m looking forward to seeing the difference for myself.

Now, lets talk about the main reason I’m excited about trying this fork: Terralogic.  Terralogic promises to give you the best qualities of both a rigid and suspension fork.  It allows you to set the fork so it stays rigid when subject to slow, or small, forces, but when the force exceeds a certain threshold the fork acts like a normal suspension fork, soaking up the bumps to let you ride faster and maintain traction.  That threshold is adjustable, with 15 different settings to choose from, and is intended to be a set-it-and-forget-it affair.

How does that translate to trail riding?  In theory, I should be able to get out of the saddle on climbs and hammer uphill while the fork stays locked out to give me maximum efficiency.  And when I start down the hill the fork will soak up whatever the trail throws at it.  And best of all – I won’t have to flip any levers or turn any dials while riding.  Just pedal and steer.

Once I put some miles on the fork I’ll let you know if it actually works as advertised and is worth the lofty price tag.  In the meantime, head over to the Fox website if you want more details on the fork.

WTB LaserDisc Trail 29 Wheels

SPECS
Front Hub: LaserDisc Lite, 15QR (9mm QR also available)
Rear Hub: LaserDisc Lite (single speed specific also available)
Rims: LaserDisc Trail 29er
Spokes: Butted 14/15 Gauge, Black
Rims: Alloy, Black
Weight: Front – 970g; Rear – 1130g* (including quick release)
MSRP: Front – $280; Rear – $400

The LaserDisc Trail 29 wheelset is WTB’s all around trail bike 29er wheelset.  WTB positions this wheelset as light enough for cross country racing but strong enough to stand up to aggressive trail riding. To me the build seems to focus a little more on strength and stiffness than it does low weight. The wheels have a very nice all black color scheme (other than the sticker pictured above); nice and low key, which I like.

The hubs are WTB’s own design and they keep the weight down with an aluminum shell, freehub body, and axles.  The bearings are stainless steel and the freehub features six dual-sided pawls for 12 points of engagement.  A singlespeed-specific rear wheel/hub is available, as is a standard quick release front wheel/hub.  The wheels are not designed for tubeless use.

The rims are WTB’s popular LaserDisc Trail 29er rims.  The 27mm width is on the wide side for typical XC use, and should work nicely with wider tires.  The rims are 32 hole, and do have eyelets.  The eyelets add some weight but should allow for higher spoke tension and a stiffer wheel build.  The rims also feature WTB’s patented I-Beam and Unbendium Bulge shapes, both of which increase strength and stiffness without adding excessive weight.

The spokes are, surprise, also WTB’s own design.  They are double butted to keep weight down, but are a little different from most spokes.  Most double butted spokes are 2.0mm at the J-bend and nipple where strength is needed most, and only 1.8mm in the middle.  But WTB’s spokes are 2.5mm at the J-bend to increase strength over a standard spoke.  The nipples are an aluminum alloy instead of brass to keep weight down.

I’m looking forward to trying these wheels since they’re pretty different from the wheelset I’ve been riding for the last year.  The WTB’s are heavier, but they have a wider rim and should be much stronger and stiffer.  But they are not tubeless ready, which is already a strike against them in my opinion.  I’ll ride them with tubes, and will probably try and convert them to tubeless as well.  I’ll let you know how it works!

Check out WTB’s website for more details.

*Note – On the WTB website the rear wheel weight is listed as 970g, which I think must by a typo, accidentally carried over from the front wheel specs.  The weight listed above (1130g) is what my wheel weighed on my Feedback Sports Alpine Digital Scale.  The front wheel matched the claimed weight exactly.

I would like to thank Fox and WTB for providing these products for review.

One of the most popular booths at Interbike this year was Fox, no doubt due to all those cool looking forks on the walls. Like a window display in the red light district, you just have to stop and look. Well trek7k and I had a chance to talk with Elayna Caldwell, Marketing Manager at Fox, to go over the line up and to preview some cool things to come.

To start, Elayna mentioned that all the 2011 top model aftermarket forks, from the XC-oriented 32 F-Series forks all the way to the big 40 RC2, will get an new Kashima coating. Kashima is a slick anodizing coating laced with molybdenum disulfide and Fox is the only MTB shock company that has a license for the process. The cool thing is you can actually feel the difference between a regular fork and one with the Kashima coating.

Not only do these forks have a fancy new coating on them but they are also reworked internally with a more linear air spring as well as a lighter QR15 axle (21grams lighter). The reintroduction of a totally new Terralogic inertia valve is a new addition for this year and can be seen throughout the line-up of 32mm forks (except the 831 and 32 Float). The Terralogic valve acts much like an intelligent platform adjustment – it “senses” the trail (actually it is sensing the shaft speed of the damper and not your pedaling forces) and opens up the damping unit when it needs to. Otherwise the Terralogic valve stays closed for maximum performance. You can also adjust the threshold level by choosing from one of 15 positions.

Another key addition to the 2011 Fox line-up is an all new 180mm fork. You might assume Fox just went and extended the stanchion legs a bit to get more travel and called it done but no, not Fox. The company went and designed this fork from the ground up with durability, light weight and stiffness in mind. How’d they do it? Well they started with a new lower fork chassis to allow for more overlap of the DU bushings and Kashima coated stanchions (on the RC2) models. The fork body extends about 1.5 inches below the axle mounts that allows a lower placement of the bottom DU bushing. A new FIT RC2 damper has been added for fade-free performance and increased small bump sensitivity.  A few more key features like intelligently placed compression adjusters up top (previous models were on the lower right fork leg) and a stiffer fork crown make this a killer fork that delivers on Fox’s ambitious design criteria.

The TALAS suspension forks (both the 32mm and 36mm chassis) sport a host of new features, all of which made me salivate when thinking about the options (yes, options). In the 32mm TALAS you can get the fork with or without Terralogic, 140/110mm of travel, and either a standard 1 1/8″ inch or tapered steerer. If none of that floats your boat and you want the RLC version, this unit is offered in 150 / 120mm and 140 / 110mm travel configurations with two steering tube choices. All the forks come with either a QR15 or a QR9 axle. The 36mm units feature either 180/140mm of travel using the new FIT RC2 damper or 160/120mm of  travel using the improved FIT RLC damper (based on the successful 32mm model). The 36mm chassis forks only come with a 20mm axle (as they should).

Forty. Need I say more? The big 40mm FIT RC2 fork from Fox has been improved once again for those who love pointing bikes downhill and riding really fast. At 6.81 lbs. this isn’t the lightest fork out there but it’s probably one of the most bomb-proof forks you’ll find. The slick Kashima coating really improves the sensitivity of the fork and should perk up small bump compliance. To further improve the feel of the fork, Fox added a lower friction titanium coil in the left leg. All of this allows the rider to really dial in this beast. Speaking of dials, the 40 also uses the same design as the 36mm chassis which places the compression dial up top with the rebound dial on the bottom. This fork reacts quicker, keeps a consistent feel all day long, and makes adjustment easier as well.

And now for something completely new from Fox: a telescoping seatpost. Looking at the prototype I noticed right away the improvements Fox is targeting for this product release, most notably a lack of hydraulics to spit out. The activation lever is a tiny pivot that shouldn’t interfere with seat rails or dig into the seat itself. The prototype also seemed very stiff with little side to side movement unlike other telescoping seatposts on the market. Even though this is only a prototype I can tell it will be a game-changer. Short video below.

Another über cool item on display was the titanium one-piece fork crown. Ohh yeah that’s right, titanium – not carbon. Up close it looked so nice. Will it come into being for us mere mortals? I just got a smile and a maybe from Elayna.

Check out the Fox Racing Shox website and take a peak at the rest of the line up. Hopefully trek7k and I will get a few full-on reviews of some Fox shocks for you soon!

Here’s a quick guide to installing (or not installing) the Fox 32 Float 150 FIT RLC fork and how to dial it in for max performance on the trail. If you’re looking for a review, check this out.

Installation Tips

Don’t plan on installing this fork yourself unless you have all the proper tools handy and are competent enough for the task. Just in case you’re wondering, you will need either a pipe cutter with a new blade on it or a steering tube cutter guide and a hack saw. You will also need a star nut installation tool. Having said that, once the steering tube and star nut are installed, the rest of the installation is actually easy.

You’ll want to make sure you have enough brake hose for full travel (though you can step the travel down to 130mm using the included spacers). Always follow the recommendations on the included interactive installation CD when mounting the wheel and setting up your quick release for the first time. Keep in mind that the QR should not brush up against the fork at all when the QR locks in place.

Take your bike around a parking lot or on the street and jounce the fork for a while to get all the fluids in place. Let everything settle in for a bit before continuing onto bigger and gnarlier stuff. This is actually an important step and should never be skipped before setting op the fork, no matter how hard it may be to wait.

Setup

The 32 Float 150 RLC has four settings: air pressure, rebound, low speed compression, and lock-out threshold. The first setting you’ll want to adjust is the air pressure and sag. To do this you should have ridden around a bit to get all the bushings well lubricated to make sure that nothing sticks. Dial all the settings to the lightest levels by backing out the knobs (counter-clockwise) on both the compression bezel and the rebound knob on the bottom of the fork leg. Once that is complete you can set the sag on the fork.

Get dressed up in your full cycling gear and weigh yourself in. Look up your weight on the chart in the owners manual to find the correct pressure setting and use the provided shock pump to pressurize. For example, at my weight (full in @200lbs), Fox recommends 95 psi for the correct amount of sag.

Setting compression and rebound along with lock-out settings are all about user preference and will vary from rider to rider and will depend on your terrain, riding style, and ability. Ultimately you want the fork to track the terrain without feeling like it wants to toss you off the bike. You also don’t want a fork that feels like it’s about to bottom out on moderate drops. I generally like to set rebound first, then compression.

You can get a good idea of the initial rebound setting while standing in one spot and jouncing the fork. Start turning the rebound dial clockwise a few clicks at a time, and test each change by opening your hands and pushing down hard on the bars. The rebounding fork should not push your hand off the bars when it returns; if it tosses your hands off, there is too little rebound. Now, go for a ride and pay attention to how the fork is returning. On multiple hits the fork should not pack down (that is, lose travel every hit). Once the rebound is set, it’s time to get the compression and lock-out dialed in.

Compression should be set on the fly, preferably on a section of trail that you know well. With the compression knob you want to add enough compression (clockwise) so that when you take a drop / bump you don’t blow through the entire travel. Instead, you want to have a controlled compression without hitting the bump stop. You can also use the lock-out feature as a higher-level compression setting when taking larger drops or as a way to improve efficiency when pedaling through flats and climbs.

The 2010 Fox 32 Float 150 FIT RLC offers a wide range of settings you can tweak to get the perfect ride. Experiment to find the settings that work best for you!