Mountain bike suspension manufacturers seem to have raised the bar yet again this year. Everyone from Fox and Rockshox to DT Swiss and Marzocchi to newcomer Formula was proud to show off their latest and greatest.

Fox Racing Shocks

Stopping off at Fox first, I spent some time talking with Josie Jacques-Maynes, an accomplished mountain bike racer in her own right, about their 2012 line up. Fox is splitting the line into three categories: Factory, Performance, and Evolution with Factory being the highest end with all the latest and greatest. The entire 2012 line up gets new SKF low friction seals which improve sensitivity. The rich Kashima coating still finds itself on all the Factory line forks and now on the RP23, RP2, DHX Air 5.0, and the DHX- RC4 shocks.

Fox is also coming out with an all new longer travel 29er fork for 2012. There are two versions: a Float with 140mm of travel or a TALAS with 110/140mm travel. Up close you can tell FOX took their time to evaluate this fork before bringing it to market with careful consideration to both weight and strength. Coming in at 4.54lbs (TALAS taper steerer 15QR) this fork is begging to be tossed on a Yeti SB95 or similar long-travel 29er.

Fox is also nearly ready to release their version of the dropper seat post. So far what is clear is that it will come in two sizes (30.9mm and 31.6mm) and will feature a remote lever (natch). Checking the test model I did the wiggle test and lo and behold, this one had nearly zero side-to-side play compared to others on the market. Am I waiting to test one… YES.

As for the rear shocks I am stoked on getting ready to give a full review on the 32mm TALAS and RP23 shocks. This year’s RP23 has what Fox calls Adaptive Logic which provides a greater range of ProPedal tuning and increases the Boost Valve effectiveness.

Fox previewed a new technology still early in development that uses any Android device or Garmin GPS along with a special pump (with built in ANT+) to set up the fork. First you scan the QR code on the fork , then hook up the pump and the app tells you what to do next. Seems like a neat concept for setting up the fork correctly. The program even gives you recommended compression and rebound settings. This unfortunately is still under development but if executed well I can see it helping many riders get their suspension set up right.

Rockshox

Swinging by Rockshox and talking with Tyler Morland about everything SRAM, we went through all the numerous tweaks that Rockshox has made for 2012. Lower friction damper cartridges, Keronite on the top models, and tapered carbon steering tubes are just the start of what Rockshox has to offer this year. The really big news for Rockshox is the expanded offerings in the 29er markets. You can now get your hands on a SID, Reba, Recon, Revelation, and the lower cost XC versions for big wheel rigs. With travel options from 80-140mm, Rockshox is making sure you’re covered.

The all new Motion Control DNA damper cartridge is lighter and features greater adjustability and improved sensitivity. For all you gram counters, the lightest 29er SID weighs in at just 1450 grams – pretty damn light for sure. Jeff has posted a few articles about longer travel 29ers bikes and the Revelation 29er with its 32mm uppers and 20mm maxle will surely find its way onto many a Trail 29er soon.

On the longer travel side of things, the Lyrik gets major upgrades with a choice of a BoXXer-derived Mission control DH damper, a Dual position air system that will drop the travel down 30mm in just one 110°degree sweep, or the BoXXer-style solo air spring. Stiff 35mm stanchions and three choice of steering tubes will  round things out. The BoXXer gets tweaked as well with further improvements to sensitivity as well as some weight savings with the lowers coated in Keronite rather than paint. The Keronite is a very hard uniform surface, much like a ceramic compound which helps reduce weight while keeping strength high.

At Rockshox it doesn’t end with new forks. The photo above says it all. There are now white color options on the Monarch and Monarch Plus shocks and even a new carbon option on the Monarch which gets some versions below 200 grams. The Monarch Plus is now available and will pair nicely with a Lyric on those longer travel Trail or AM bikes.

Another new item from Rockshox this year is the Kage rear shock. The Kage matches the Domain series of forks and is a lower priced option to the Vivid line up. The Kage RC has pre-load, compression, and rebound adjustments and comes in at 402 grams (no hardware and no spring, 216mm length).

DT Swiss

DT Swiss also made an appearance at Interbike this year to show off their suspension tech. The forks all have a very uniform look to them which could be a bit confusing but other than that you’re looking at a solid choice. For one thing the XRC 100 Single shot comes in at just 1170 grams with a carbon steering tube (with an unique internal rib for stiffness). The lowers are carbon as well with a reverse arch much like Manitou forks. The biggest fork is DT’s EXM 150 coming in at 1675 grams.

The EXM 150 features a magnesium lower with a polished center bridge called the torsion box. Controls on the EXM are much like many platforms with a threshold control and independent rebound and compression circuit adjustment (Launch Control). The ABS (Auto Balance System) is used for the damper which makes it easy to set up the air spring. The positive and negative air chambers set themselves automatically.

DT Swiss also offers the incredibly light XR carbon rear shock. At its shortest length, 165mm, you have a shock that is 142 grams. Pretty crazy but yeah, talk about light. The XR also gets a new air spring with the same ABS platform as the forks for precise set up. What I find unique about this shock is the threaded carbon canister. To date I believe this is the only carbon component that has threads right in the material. Using an aluminum damper shaft for the rest of the construction and carefully placed seals should keep this damper working for some time.

Manitou

Unfortunately Manitou was not at Interbike this year but they have a few refinements on the Dorado and R7. The big news for them is the release of the Marvel, the first for Manitou with a QR15, using the familiar hex that has been used successfully on their 20mm through axles. In addition to the Marvel, a tuning kit is being offered that will allow everyday riders to tune their suspension to perfection. For the rear suspension a tweaked Revox shock is coming this year. Stay tuned for a review on that soon!

Formula

Formula is making a debut this year with their very own fork design using 33mm stanchions for a good mix of stiffness and weight savings. Add to that a pull spring for small bump compliance and a main air spring for the bigger bumps and this promises a sensitive shock. The display models were QR9 with post mounts and it wasn’t clear if a 15QR is on the way. What you can see in the cutaway is the thin lowers and even the lower DU bushing, all designed to keep things as light as possible.

Marzocchi

Marzocchi was at the show showing off their latest line of extensive forks along with a display of legacy fork models. The line up has been revamped with new models and changes in the damper cartridges. The new Corsa Superleggera Carbon 29er fork features a one-piece tapered steering tube / upper crown and a weight that rivals some 26er forks at 1650 grams. This fork offers three travel lengths (80, 100, and 120mm) and is internally adjustable using a new hydraulic travel adjust system (Switch TA) that works completely independent of the damping system. Relying on hydraulics, the optional travel change of 40mm (on the 55 series) or 30mm (on the 44 series) automatically re-extends without pulling back up on the bars.

On the bigger side of things, the 66 hasn’t changed much over the last year, but the 888 RC3 Evo gets a new and improved cartridge and finally a 4-bolt mounting system for the stem.  The Roco line up of rear shocks sees a color change, now in black to tone things down a bit.

Unfortunately we didn’t have enough time to check out everyone at the show – we missed Suntour and X-Fusion – but hopefully next year we will stop by and check that out for you. Stay tuned for more coverage from Interbike!

I had an absolute blast at the Sea Otter Classic this year! I don’t think it’s possible to spend the week at Sea Otter and not have a good time! It’s over a week later and I still haven’t finished sifting through all of the information that I collected at the event and writing reviews of all of the products that I tested, so there is no way that I could recap the entire event in just one blog post. Instead, I’d just like to post a collection of photos of cool products that I saw along with a few of my general impressions from the event.

View of the expo. Photo Credit: brightroom, seaotterclassic.com

Interesting MTB Products

Here are a few products that I thought were just plain awesome:

Dirty Dog DH Stem

All photos with no other credit listed were taken by yours truly.

Dirty Dog is known for creating incredibly unique brake rotor designs. This new stem named the “Reaper” is designed to be unlike any other stem on the market. Due to its short length and heavy weight, this is definitely not intended for the XC crowd… but I would love to mount one of these on my DH rig!

Purely Custom Bash Guard

This bash guard by Purely Custom is a truly innovative design. They have worked long and hard to integrate the rubber edge into the metal guard, and to identify the perfect balance between tackiness and durability in the compound. The result is a bash guard that is very environmentally friendly and doesn’t leave unseemly marks on rocks and other trail obstacles. In addition, it works like a third tire to provide extra traction and stability as you go over an obstacle. Instead of hitting a rock and sliding down it, this guard sticks and allows you to pedal right through!

Fox Suspension

I always enjoy ogling the new suspension, and Fox’s new line looks as gorgeous as ever!

Wooden Bicycles

Photo Credit: Arleigh Jenkins.

Photo Credit: Arleigh Jenkins.

I found out after returning from Sea Otter that I missed one of the coolest booths at the whole show: Renovo’s wooden bicycles. Since I didn’t personally get to see these 2-wheeled wooden works of art, be sure to read Arleigh Jenkins’ post about them at BikeShopGirl.com.

More Beautiful Bikes

One of the bikes I got a chance to test ride was the Diamondback Sortie. Oh how I envy joetutt and his new frame!

I also did my first-ever legitimate mountain bike singlespeed ride… and it was on a steel-framed Spot hardtail with a belt drive! I loved the simplicity of this bike and I’ll probably be writing a more detailed post about it sometime soon…

I would love to have the chance to test out a Niner Carbon Air 9. Maybe someday…

Of course, I’ve got to give a shout-out to my bros at Airborne bikes for the stellar rigs that they are introducing this spring. I got to put in some serious time on both the Goblin 29er and the Wingman DJ bike and I can’t believe the incredible value that Airborne is providing in these two bikes! I’ve already written a short review of the Wingman, and will soon be drafting an initial impressions review of the Goblin, along with a more detailed review after I’ve been able to ride it for a few months. Be sure to check out some GoPro footage of the Wingman on the pumptrack further down this post.

Nutritionals

It seemed that around every corner, there was another booth for some type of granola bar, organic energy drink, or some other type of food. Well one thing is clear: mountain bikers like to eat, and they (generally) like to eat healthy!

I was in heaven while sampling all of these various flavors of peanut butter. I got the chance to sample everything from a raisin-laden peanut butter to dark chocolate and p.b. I’m seriously a peanut butter fanatic, and basically every single flavor that I sampled was the best I have ever had! This all-natural peanut butter perfection will cost you though: MSRP is $5-6 per bottle. ilovepeanutbutter.com

FRS was giving away delicious, natural energy drinks all weekend. Check out this blog post for more details on FRS.

In addition to the couple of products mentioned here, I saw booths for Hammer Nutrition, Luna Bar, Larabar, Nuun, a few different coffee sellers, Dannon yogurt, and of course Clif had a massive tent, as usual. More than once I passed on buying lunch and opted instead to just stroll the fair and eat samples!

MTB Racing

Traditionally, racing is what the Sea Otter Classic is renowned for, so naturally there were tons of races and practice runs going on every minute of the day.

Photo Credit.

Jerry Hazard of the Airborne Flight Crew tearing it up during his DH race run!

Manualing through the rollers during practice for the speed and style competition.

Photo Credit: Arleigh Jenkins

Photo Credit: Arleigh Jenkins

Dual Slalom race.

Riding

Rider: Tony Caruso. Photo: Greg Heil.

While there are races going on all the time during the event, many riders (such as myself) choose to ride at a more leisurely pace and explore the massive 80+ mile network of trails at Fort Ord.

The pumptrack was also a very popular feature this year. The footage below was taken on Thursday, the industry-only day, so I basically had the place all to myself. But once Saturday hit, the track was teeming with literally dozens of people all day long.

Pumptrack footage taken aboard the Airborne Wingman.

The big air bag was a big hit as well.

Conclusion

So maybe I did try to recap the entire event in just one article.  This has definitely been a mega-post, but it is just a small sampling of all the action that takes place at Sea Otter every year!

What are you doing next April?

We just got a press release from the folks at Manitou with news about the Circus DJ forks. The 2011 models have arrived and feature a new casting and crown design while the price has been reduced on the Comp model ($339 MSRP). At the end of the press release we found this little interesting tidbit for riders who “deliver the proper gnar”:

Manitou is a big supporter of everything Dirt-Jump, Slope-style, Park, Street and Pump and we’re considering all sponsorship opportunities for 2011. HBG produces a number a dirt jump products and a new PUNCH dirt jump wheel program is set to release at Sea Otter in April of 2011. If you work in a shop shredding local trails and/or enter DJ comps we’d like to hear from you. Send your resume and contact info to us and we’ll get back to you.

Hayes Bicycle Group
Attn: 2011 Sponsorship/Pro Deal
5800 West Donges Bay Rd
Mequon, WI. 53209

Makes me wanna run off and join the Circus…

More details at manitoumtb.com.

One of the most popular booths at Interbike this year was Fox, no doubt due to all those cool looking forks on the walls. Like a window display in the red light district, you just have to stop and look. Well trek7k and I had a chance to talk with Elayna Caldwell, Marketing Manager at Fox, to go over the line up and to preview some cool things to come.

To start, Elayna mentioned that all the 2011 top model aftermarket forks, from the XC-oriented 32 F-Series forks all the way to the big 40 RC2, will get an new Kashima coating. Kashima is a slick anodizing coating laced with molybdenum disulfide and Fox is the only MTB shock company that has a license for the process. The cool thing is you can actually feel the difference between a regular fork and one with the Kashima coating.

Not only do these forks have a fancy new coating on them but they are also reworked internally with a more linear air spring as well as a lighter QR15 axle (21grams lighter). The reintroduction of a totally new Terralogic inertia valve is a new addition for this year and can be seen throughout the line-up of 32mm forks (except the 831 and 32 Float). The Terralogic valve acts much like an intelligent platform adjustment – it “senses” the trail (actually it is sensing the shaft speed of the damper and not your pedaling forces) and opens up the damping unit when it needs to. Otherwise the Terralogic valve stays closed for maximum performance. You can also adjust the threshold level by choosing from one of 15 positions.

Another key addition to the 2011 Fox line-up is an all new 180mm fork. You might assume Fox just went and extended the stanchion legs a bit to get more travel and called it done but no, not Fox. The company went and designed this fork from the ground up with durability, light weight and stiffness in mind. How’d they do it? Well they started with a new lower fork chassis to allow for more overlap of the DU bushings and Kashima coated stanchions (on the RC2) models. The fork body extends about 1.5 inches below the axle mounts that allows a lower placement of the bottom DU bushing. A new FIT RC2 damper has been added for fade-free performance and increased small bump sensitivity.  A few more key features like intelligently placed compression adjusters up top (previous models were on the lower right fork leg) and a stiffer fork crown make this a killer fork that delivers on Fox’s ambitious design criteria.

The TALAS suspension forks (both the 32mm and 36mm chassis) sport a host of new features, all of which made me salivate when thinking about the options (yes, options). In the 32mm TALAS you can get the fork with or without Terralogic, 140/110mm of travel, and either a standard 1 1/8″ inch or tapered steerer. If none of that floats your boat and you want the RLC version, this unit is offered in 150 / 120mm and 140 / 110mm travel configurations with two steering tube choices. All the forks come with either a QR15 or a QR9 axle. The 36mm units feature either 180/140mm of travel using the new FIT RC2 damper or 160/120mm of  travel using the improved FIT RLC damper (based on the successful 32mm model). The 36mm chassis forks only come with a 20mm axle (as they should).

Forty. Need I say more? The big 40mm FIT RC2 fork from Fox has been improved once again for those who love pointing bikes downhill and riding really fast. At 6.81 lbs. this isn’t the lightest fork out there but it’s probably one of the most bomb-proof forks you’ll find. The slick Kashima coating really improves the sensitivity of the fork and should perk up small bump compliance. To further improve the feel of the fork, Fox added a lower friction titanium coil in the left leg. All of this allows the rider to really dial in this beast. Speaking of dials, the 40 also uses the same design as the 36mm chassis which places the compression dial up top with the rebound dial on the bottom. This fork reacts quicker, keeps a consistent feel all day long, and makes adjustment easier as well.

And now for something completely new from Fox: a telescoping seatpost. Looking at the prototype I noticed right away the improvements Fox is targeting for this product release, most notably a lack of hydraulics to spit out. The activation lever is a tiny pivot that shouldn’t interfere with seat rails or dig into the seat itself. The prototype also seemed very stiff with little side to side movement unlike other telescoping seatposts on the market. Even though this is only a prototype I can tell it will be a game-changer. Short video below.

Another über cool item on display was the titanium one-piece fork crown. Ohh yeah that’s right, titanium – not carbon. Up close it looked so nice. Will it come into being for us mere mortals? I just got a smile and a maybe from Elayna.

Check out the Fox Racing Shox website and take a peak at the rest of the line up. Hopefully trek7k and I will get a few full-on reviews of some Fox shocks for you soon!

It’s always fun stopping by and chatting it up with the guys from the Hayes group because there’s so much to talk about – both bike and non-bike stuff. At Interbike last week I spoke with Richard Travis, Joel Richardson, Tom Porter and last but not least, Scott Boyd.

Starting off with Manitou we discussed the success of the Dorado Pro. Based on feedback from pro and amateur riders alike, it looks like this fork is on its way to becoming a classic. The Dorado will not see any changes for 2011 which isn’t surprising – it’s already super dialed.

The new Marvel fork from Manitou is intended to replace the Minute and it’s a redesign rather than simply a name change. With a new one-piece lower that’s designed to be a bit stiffer, the Marvel also features more clearance for high volume tires. The fork crown has been redesigned to accommodate a tapered head tube and is stiffer to make sure those stanchions remain pointing in the right direction. An Absolute+ damper cartridge and an air spring on the right fork leg round out the package.

The hotly anticipated Prime brakes from Hayes were on display in both white and black. Up close these brakes definitely look like they mean business. You’re getting 26mm pistons and a high tech poppet cam within the master cylinder that can be adjusted to open at different positions to dial in the stroke. The Prime brakes also feature a nice positive detent on the brake lever for adjusting lever position. Speaking of the lever, it felt great in my hand and my brake finger fit nicely in the curve of the blade. With all the right hardware and trick parts, expect a full review in the near future.

Answer continues to expand its line-up with a stem that drops the center of the bar 20mm instead of raising it as well as a new AM stem called the Rove. On top of that, Answer has an ultra cool anodized bar that’s not actually in production – though one day it may be, depending on demand. So if you like the skull & bones bar pictured below let Answer know by dropping them an email. Heck you never know – after all that’s how some of the coolest cars came to be. Answer has also added a new winter glove (rated to 25°F) to the two gloves in the current line-up.

Take a look at these cool looking carbon rims from Sun Ringle below (there is just something about a carbon rim that makes me feel all fussy). Only available in 26″, the Carbon SRD rims are mated to straight-pull spokes and the same hubs as the Charger Pro wheels with 24 spokes and a decent 1555 grams in weight. These wheels are good for your XC – AM rider with various adapters to accommodate nearly all the widths and fork configurations out there. Along with those wheels, Sun Ringle has also introduced a new rim for the DJ market called the Estate rim. At 600 grams and 34mm wide double walled construction, these may be worth considering when you taco your current set.

Check these products and more at the Hayes websites.

After seeing more than one set of super wide 800mm bars at Interbike, element22 and I were having a conversation that went something like this:

element22: Wow, 800mm bars – that’s gotta be as wide as it gets.
trek7k: I dunno, next thing you know someone will come out with 820mm so they’re just a little wider than everyone else. It’s an arms race.

Fast forward to later in the day and our meeting with Sean from Ritchey / Syncros. Strolling around the booth I literally knocked a set of bars off the display and immediately element22 recognized the gag: 1000mm handlebars (1 meter or 39.37 inches for those who aren’t up on the metric system). Sean assured us the bars were created just as a conversation piece but I’m not so sure. Apparently the feedback from some younger riders was that they’d be interested in giving the 1000mm bars a try. Add to that the fact that the bar was produced with thicker walls for added strength – at the very least someone will be riding with these babies to see how they feel on the bike. What do you think – how wide is too wide for mountain bike handlebars?

Aside from the gag bars, Syncros unveiled a totally innovative (and patented) mountain bike stem called the FRIC. The “Intelligent Clamp” design wraps 260-degrees around the bar (unlike traditional 180-degree stem clamps) to reduce bar stress and increase fatigue strength. Reduced bar stress is a great thing for anyone who runs carbon bars but is wary of over-torquing things. Of course this means most bars will need to be threaded through the stem on installation but that’s a small price to pay. The stem also sports a centered steer tube slot which means improved bolt clearance. The whole package weighs just 124 grams – sweet.

Stems and bars are certainly interesting but what really caught my eye was the new 29er fork from Syncros. From a distance the rigid carbon fork looks like a standard suspension fork – but one that’s been blacked out for stealth early-product testing. Most of the rigid, carbon mountain bike forks I’ve seen look like they belong on a road bike but this one definitely fits the scene. I’m hoping to get a few test rides in on one of these in the near future – stay tuned for more…

The company also showed off updated wheels (including 29er hoops), pedals, and hubs. Honestly we could have spent all day drooling over the latest stuff at the Ritchey / Syncros booth.

Ritchey / Syncros has a great reputation for innovative design and solid products and the line-up for 2011 certainly doesn’t disappoint. Where will the company push the boundaries next?

2010 marks an exciting year for Fox Racing Shox with a ton of new and truly innovative products coming from Bob Fox’s team of engineers and factory test riders. Boost valve technology is now standard in the Float rear shock and there’s also a new DH-specific rear shock called the DHX RC4 that looks super promising. In addition, Fox has taken the hugely successful FIT damper technology from the DH and FR shocks and scaled it for 32mm XC and Trail forks for a new level of performance across the boards. Along with the new damper, the 32mm chassis is now compatible with QR15 thru-axle systems as well.

The 2010 Fox 32 Float 150 FIT RLC (MSRP $870) comes in at a feather light 3.88lbs with 150mm of travel (1 1/8 steering tube) compared to last year’s 140mm version at 3.97lbs. FIT stands for Fox Isolated Technology and the FIT damper basically reduces oil volume and weight by 71g. The damper also produces a reduction in un-sprung weight (weight not supported by the air spring) which ultimately increases tire-to-ground responsiveness and traction. Another major benefit of the FIT damper is the elimination of fluid aeration which translates into consistent damping, even over washboard trails. This is accomplished through a bladder that holds the fluid in a vacuum sealed, reduced volume chamber to prevent fluid from foaming up when traveling though the piston.

For those who might be skeptical about the QR15 thru-axle, it’s definitely time to reconsider. The QR15 was developed in collaboration with Shimano and the engineers optimized the design for weight, stiffness, and packaging for XC to light AM bikes. Bikes with the QR15 have 15% greater torsional fork stiffness with a full 25% gain in transverse shear. Ultimately this increases rider confidence and makes the fork a stronger, stiffer unit, with sixth-sense-like steering response.

On The Trails

Once everything was dialed in (see my article on Fox 32 Float 150 FIT RLC installation and set-up) I had some great opportunities to give this fork a workout with varied terrain from rollers and rooted terrain to fast, dry, hard pack on the Don trail network here in Ontario. To be honest I didn’t pay much attention to the fork for the first couple of hours of riding since most forks, including this one, need time to get broken in and to get all the seals set and working correctly. During my warm-up I found I needed to increase my initial compression and rebound settings.

After working the kinks out I really started paying attention to how the 32 Float 150 works. I have to say for a fork that has only 150mm of travel it rides like it has much more than that. The travel seemed especially long when the fork started hitting rougher, extended rooted surfaces where the 32 Float performed fantastically. Ultimately this fork seemed to perform nearly as well as the Fox 36 Talas despite the smaller diameter stanchions. This unit is a whole 1.1 lbs lighter than the 36 Talas and the narrower stanchions make this fork great for the aggressive trail rider who can make do with 10mm less travel.

Hitting 4-foot drops was nothing for this fork and it soaked up the drops as if they were sidewalk curbs. So with that bit of experience I started hitting bigger 6- and 7-foot set downs with smooth transitions with no worries and a big smile. I noticed that the harder the fork worked, the more comfortable it felt, much like the 36 Talas I reviewed not too long ago.

In the corners I definitely noticed a huge improvement over the 9mm wheel mount version that I tested last year. For starters I noticed my discs didn’t rub in berms and flat corners – the old version flexed enough that the hub would torque slightly and the disc would rub on my brake pad. Needless to say, the QR15 is well worth the upgrade by itself (that is if you have a QR15 wheelset or plan on getting one soon). The QR15 really did improve tracking on the trail and kept me pointed where I wanted to go.

If there were one thing I would improve on this fork it would be the compression dials and indicators. Unlike another fork I also ride often, the amount of difference from one click to the next on the 32 Float 150 FIT RLC is not as clearly defined which means it takes a bit of luck to find the right levels.

All in all, the Fox 150 FIT RLC is a great mountain bike fork. It tracks precisely, takes bumps, roots and drops with ease, and soaks up terrain like a mop. This fork may not be the lightest around but it is certainly very tough and responsive. I would definitely recommend the Fox 32 Float 150 FIT RLC to any of my long legged trail bike friends!

Performance Chart:

Specs from FOX:

WEIGHT (15QR-includes axle)
3.88 lbs / 1.76 kg (1 1/8″ steerer)
3.85 lbs / 1.75 kg (1.5″ taper steerer)

TRAVEL
5.9 inches (150mm)

ADJUSTMENTS
- Low speed compression- Lockout force adjust- Lever actuated lockout- Air spring pressure
- Rebound

DAMPER
NEW FIT

LOWER LEG
(post-style disc brake mounting only)
- 15QR thru-axle system

STEERER
Standard: 1 1/8″
Optional: 1.5″ Taper

SPRING
Air

FORK COLOR
White

INTENDED USE
XC, Trail, AM

Thanks to the folks at Fox for sending over the Fox 32 Float 150 FIT RLC for review.

Here’s something all you who own 2007 and newer Manitou forks are going to be extremely interested in hearing about. The best part? It won’t cost you an arm and a leg to upgrade your front suspension.

Just in time for the holidays, Manitou has released the new Absolute+ damper cartridge (MSRP $44.99 -$69.99 depending on fork model). The Absolute+ is basically a new damper unit that will give you 8 low speed compression levels and a shimable high speed compression circuit on your Manitou fork. It’s super simple to install and you can be up and running in just 15 minutes.

The Absolute+ unit is similar to a TPC damper but the Absolute+ allows you to change up both hi (called the Pro Stack) and low speed compression (called the Speed needle). Out of the box the Absolute+ is set up for the average rider, however if you find yourself riding super rough trails or are on the heavier side of the spectrum, (180+ lbs) you will need to re-shim the high speed compression unit for maximum performance (your local shop can help you out on this).

A close look at the damper side by side to a TPC you can see a totally redesigned piston assembly.

In this article I will give you the low down on installation which will allow you to decide if you want to DIY or get a pro to do it for you. For this job you’ll need a few socket wrenches (20mm and 24mm) and one 2mm allen key. Pretty simple tool list, huh? You may want to consider changing the fork oil at the same time but it’s not necessary. Factory oil will work well with this damper unless you’re over 250 lbs. (in which case you’ll want a heavier oil).

Installation

For most home mechanics, replacing the damper will take less time than reading this article. First, turn the TPC knob full open (soft, counterclockwise). Then with the 2mm allen wrench, remove the solitare screw that holds the adjuster knob on. After you remove that screw carefully remove the cap and remove the two detent bearings and springs. Once that step is done you can remove the damper cartridge by turning it counter-clockwise with a 20mm wrench until it is totally off. You can now compare the two damper cartridges.

With the cartridge out you can either dump the oil and replace with fresh stuff or just check the level and top it off as necessary. Use a measuring tool like a vernier caliper or a simple tool cut out of cardboard with graduations on it and top off the level using the chart provided by Manitou. Each fork has a different recommended oil level so it’s important that you get the right amount (my Minute needs a level of 87mm for example).

Once you have the right oil level, you can insert the damper cartridge and torque to 45 – 55 in/lbs or 5.1 – 6.2 Nm. Carefully install the springs and then the bearing detentes (180 degrees appart). For this step, make sure you have the fork level, otherwise the detents will fall out. The final step is to install the cap with the allen screw; torque it down and then you’re ready to go.

Performance

On rocky trails with big drops I found the Absolute+ improved performance over the TPC unit that it replaced. For one thing the new control knob is easier to adjust and makes it much easier to identify settings at a glance. There are eight levels of control which offer distinct differences in slow speed compression. The shock worked equally well on washboard technical stuff and even the larger hits. One great thing I observed was how the fork didn’t feel like it was blowing through its travel too quickly on drops around the 4- 6 foot level.

For about $50 this upgrade is well worth the coin and will really improve the performance of your older 2007+ Manitou fork. Once you get the fork dialed in you will see that the separated circuits really do a great job controlling how your fork behaves.

Manitou has been doing a lot of  work revamping their product line-up and beyond the Absolute+ they have several new and exciting products just around the corner. Thanks to the folks at Manitou for providing the Absolute+ damper for review.

The Fox Talas 36 RC2 fork is just the ticket for those who like to travel through the air with the greatest of ease while avoiding going splat upon landing. Fox has revamped its entire product line for 2010 and I just had to try the latest arrival: the Fox TALAS 36 RC2 (now with FIT damper). This fork is impressively stout, more adjustable than a NASCAR, and lightweight for its class (less than five pounds). How did Fox manage to cram so many features into such a lightweight package? Well, for starters the new FIT damper reduces the amount of oil required which in turn reduces the fork’s weight. FIT technology also eliminates the chance of oil aeration (turning from fluid to foam) which translates into better control throughout your ride.

Installation

Seeing that this fork is not cheap, do not attempt to install this one unless you have all the tools handy and are competent enough for the task. Let’s face it: when a bike part costs more than a thousand dollars it’s not something you want to make a mistake on unless you’re Donald Trump (and I’m guessing he doesn’t do his own MTB work). Now, having said that, once the steering tube and star nut are installed, the rest of the installation is actually a snap. Just make sure you have enough brake hose for full travel and the correct amount of load on the quick release skewers at the axle.  Always follow the recommendations on the included interactive installation CD when setting the sag and use the table provided by Fox to set the correct pressure for your weight. Above all, remember to weigh yourself in full gear with water, otherwise you will be off and will need to add more pressure later.

Before setting up this fork I strongly recommend riding around a parking lot or on the street while jouncing the fork for a while to get all the fluids where they need to be.  This one step I never skip – and keep in mind the “showroom push down” doesn’t cut it.

Setup

After bouncing around for a bit to get all the fluids well circulated I got down to business setting up my fork. The TALAS has four settings: air pressure (spring rate), low speed compression, rebound, and high speed compression. The images below show the controls for the TALAS  rebound, high speed and low speed compression and finally the height control.

Sag is controlled via air pressure and is the first thing that needs to be set. Just follow the included CD instructions on selecting a starting pressure and you should be well within the ball park. This fork allows you to roll with either 100, 130, or 160mm of travel so I chose to use the fork’s full 160mm length for my sag measurement. Fox recommends a 20% sag which translates into 32mm at a 160mm length.

Low speed compression is set using the small blue knob and stacked dials on the right fork leg (they are covered with a black screw cap). When setting the low speed compression you’re looking for the point where you can hit the brakes or accelerate without having the bike pitch excessively. Ride hard and hit the brakes, noting how much the bike pitches forward. You don’t want too much movement but at the same time you don’t want the fork to stay rigid. Ultimately you need the fork to follow the trail and thankfully this setting can be tweaked both on and off the trail.

Rebound is the next setting to manipulate and you also can do this one the trail. Here you’re looking for a controlled return to ride height after the fork compresses. You don’t want the fork to feel like it’s tossing you off the bike on return (too little rebound) nor do you want the fork to come up so fast that it feels like the fork is losing travel over multiple bumps (too much rebound).

For me the high speed compression (big blue knob) setting was a bit more challenging and I ended up using more of a “seat of the pants” approach to get it dialed in. Most riders will probably only need to set this once after finding a satisfactory amount of control but those who live and breathe traveling through the air will probably want to play with this setting more often. Adjust your high speed compression setting so the fork doesn’t blow through its entire travel too quickly when taking a big hit. Keep adding damping until you have a controlled fork compression without the fork eating up all its travel and bottoming out (stopping abruptly in its internal bump stop). You will know you have too much high speed compression when you feel your wrists compress and an uncomfortable amount of force travels through your body on impact.

On the trails with the TALAS 36

On rutted, rooty trails the fork followed the trail as if my tire was glued to the ground.  During my test rides there was never an instant when I felt the fork lose control over the front wheel. Granted, I was using a fairly lightweight but strong wheel set-up (Eskar S-works 2.3 and Sun-Ringle STR8 Track wheels), but clearly the fork took control and managed the wheel nicely over rutted braking areas without a single complaint.

Flying over larger jumps, drop downs, and waterfall rock gardens I felt very confident and in full control of the bike. The 160mm fork with its 36mm stanchions and the 20mm quick-release really kept everything aligned upon landing and soaked up jumps as if they were just bumps. Nailing every jump without having the front end want to bury itself in the dirt or push me off the bars was just fantastic. I love a fork that can do that!

Climbing with the TALAS is what I really liked because I could go from 160mm to 130mm to 100mm in just two clicks without having to remove a glove. This feature is a must for those who intend to toss this fork on an all-mountain or trail rig. At 160mm travel, climbing can be a bit tough and yes the steering will wander a touch (put a wider bar on and this is a non-issue). But turn the travel down to 130mm or even 100mm and you’ll have a steeper head angle and your weight will be better distributed over the bars – now you’re climbing with the rest of the group. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying you will be as efficient as your buddy on his XC rig, but at least you can keep up!

Descending with this fork on a few ski runs at Blue Mountain, ON was ridiculously fun – I just cranked the fork up to its full travel (160mm) and went. At speed with this fork I felt like I was on rails with the added comfort of total control when landing jumps. I also found I didn’t need to add steering corrections when I hit patches of rocks or roots. Going fast and flying over doubles is what this fork lives to do.

Final notes on the TALAS

This fork rocks and Fox gives you everything you could possibly want in a lightweight, neat package. Not only do you get a highly capable fork that is very light for its size and travel but you also get a fork that can be dialed in precisely for any riding style. Overall this is a great buy so give your LBS a shout to see if you can get a test ride on a Fox TALAS 36 RC2 – I’m betting you won’t be disappointed. Just don’t let sticker shock deter you – in mountain biking you almost always get what you pay for!

Cheers

How I Rate the Fox TALAS 36 RC2

Specifications from Fox:
WEIGHT (1 1/8″ steerer): 4.99 lbs (2.26 kg)
WEIGHT (1.5″ straight steerer): 4.90 lbs (2.22 kg)
WEIGHT (1.5″ taper steerer): 4.95 lbs (2.25 kg)
TRAVEL: 6.3 inches (160 mm) TALAS travel adjust 160-130-100
ADJUSTMENTS: Low speed compression, High speed compression, Travel (160-130-100mm), Air spring pressure, Rebound
LOWER LEG: 20QR thru-axle system; post-style disc brake mounting
STEERER: Standard: 1 1/8″, Optional: 1.5″ or 1.5″ Taper
SPRING: Air
FORK COLOR: Titanium
INTENDED USE: DH, FR, AM

Just a quick thanks to the good folks at Fox Racing Shox’s for the TALAS fork and Opus Bikes for their great bikes that they produce.

Pretty much the biggest upgrade you can give your mountain bike is a new fork but the installation can seem daunting even to experienced MTB tinkerers. If you’ve been considering a fork upgrade but aren’t sure where to start, you’re in luck: here is the step by step procedure that nearly all shops will use to successfully replace your MTB fork. Once you get good at the procedure you could easily do this task in about 35 minutes but for the first time, allot yourself a good hour and a bit. No need to rush this job -the more care you take the better results you will have.

Read your manufacturer’s instructions

The very first thing anyone should do is read the installation instructions. I don’t care if you are an experienced mechanic or a bike tech, there is always something in there that you may not have know or forgotten, and funny thing it is usually the most important piece of information that you need.

Gathering  all the Tools

To do this job you need to round up a few items and tools:

Bike stand
Shop rags (to clean up remove excessive grease)
Allen sockets 3, 4, 5, 6mm (for use with your torque wrench)
Allen keys 3, 4, 5, 6mm
Side cutter (for removing old tie straps)
Soft face hammer
Chisel / standard screwdriver or crown race puller (Park tool #CRP-1)
Tape measure or ruler
Hack saw
Half round file with holder
Pipe cutter with new blade
Threadless saw guide (Park tool #SG-6 or similar)
Threadless nut installer (Park tool #TNS-1 or similar)
Tube that will fit over the steering tube and install the lower crown race
Torque wrench
Shock pump (high pressure up to 250psi)

You may need a new brake adapter if you are changing a fork that had IS (International Standard) mounts to one with post mounts but if your forks use the same mounting system you won’t need an adapter.

Warnings

This is IMPORTANT: If you do not feel you can do this, then don’t. Steering tubes are generally not replaceable so if you cut yours too short, then you’re outta luck. As always, MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE! When in doubt, read the last sentence again.  When cutting you should wear safety glasses and you should never use a file without a handle. Be careful not to nick the side of the steering tube with any sharp object.

Removing front wheel and top cap

The very first step is to remove the front wheel. Next, release the top cap, take it off, and put it aside in a container so you don’t loose the bolt and cap.

Removing the front brake

Most bikes today use post mount brakes and in this case, it’s a simple matter of removing the two bolts that secure the caliper onto the fork. If you have an IS adapter, (International Standard) remove the brake from that point. Make sure all the hardware is placed in a small plastic bag (these use different bolts and should be kept separate).

Removing Brake Hose

Most bikes have the brake hose attached to it in one of two ways: a small plastic mount or a plastic tie wrap. If your fork uses a tie wrap, carefully cut it off, avoiding touching your brake line. Otherwise, simply remove the hex bolt that holds the clip in place and move the brake hose and caliper away. Under no circumstances should you be removing the brake line from the caliper.

Removing Stem Assembly

Use the series of photos below for the following instructions.

With one hand on the lower crown, hold the fork in position while loosening the stem bolts. The moment the bolts are loosened the fork will fall so better to be safe than sorry! Once you have released the bolts enough, remove the stem and bar as an assembly and allow it to sit on one side of the bike. Afterward, remove the spacers and top crown race and place them somewhere safe.

Remove fork

Once you have removed the fork you’ll find the lower bearing race and seal which you’ll need to remove so pay attention to the orientation of the bearing. Your bearing may not look like the one in the picture (this is what is called a cartridge bearing) but bearings won’t stray too far from this design. Keep in mind cartridge bearings are packed with grease so check to see how smooth they are moving (twist them and feel for grittiness, the smoother the better). If your bearings are rough you may want to consider a new headset at this time.

Remove lower crown race

If you plan on reusing your old headset you’ll need to remove the lower race; otherwise, skip this step. There are a two ways that you can remove the lower race: use Park Tools CRP-1 OR if you are careful enough you can use a sharp chisel or a screw driver and gently tap the race off by working around ring, removing it evenly. Just be careful not to hit the steering tube! Wedge the tool between the fork crown and race, prying it upward until it pops off. Once off, put the race with the other parts of the headset.

Measuring Steering Tube Length

Measure the existing steering tube from the mounting face of the crown to the end of the steering tube (you may want to record that number). Next mark the new steering tube with a felt marker.

If you’re placing a new headset and it is not the same as the one that came off, you’ll need to use another method to figure out the steering length. To do that, first measure the head tube of the bike, then check the manufacturer’s info for the stack height of the headset plus the spacers and the thickness of the stem. Add it all up and with that total number subtract 2mm and that should be the length that you need to cut.

Head tube length  +
Headset stack height  +
Spacer stack  +
Stem thickness  +

Subtract 2mm from that total (this is for the top cap clearance and space required to preload the bearings).

Mark and cut the fork

With the correct length marked on your fork you now have two options for cutting the fork. The first method is to use a threadless saw guide and a hack saw. Set your guide so that when the blade draws over your mark it sits just above the cut line – this ensures that the tube extension doesn’t get cut to short. Ease up on the last few strokes before cutting through – this will prevent a large burr from forming at the end that will have to be filed clean. Finally, carefully remove the saw marks off the top and file the edge at a 45 degree angle to ensure there is no burr or edge that can scratch you or components on installation.

The second method involves the use of a pipe cutter with a fresh blade (shown above). Just make sure to line up your pipe cutter just above the cut line and rotate evenly to get a clean cut.

Installing the star nut

This step really is really best accomplished using a star nut setting tool, though you could try to install it by other means (you will have a very hard time doing so). Screw the star nut onto the nut setting tool all the way, then line up the star nut with the steering tube (do your best at lining things up here otherwise you will have issues later). Tap the star nut in to place and make sure you set it in a minimum of 5mm. Some tools have a stop that will set the nut in the right way every time.

Install the lower bearing race

Once the star nut is installed it’s time to install the lower bearing race. You can go and purchase the correct tool from a tool manufacturer such as Park or find yourself a tube that fits over the steering tube.  I fashioned the tube shown here myself and included a small nylon ring to protect the bearing race. Carefully tap the bearing ring in place and make sure the race sits squarely on the fork crown.

Install fork

Once the lower bearing race is installed you can go ahead and replace the fork. Remember to replace the lower bearing and seal, then install the fork. Next, install the upper bearing, keeping in mind the orientation of the bearing, then install the compression ring (make sure flat side up) and the top cover. If you plan on using spacers below the stem, install them now followed by the stem itself. You should end up with 2- 3mm of space. Finally you can replace the top cap and stem bolt. Do not torque anything yet.

Install the front brake and cable

At this point you should be ready to install the front brake. When you have the brake loosely installed, make sure you’re using the correct bolt length (there should be 8 threads exposed past the caliper). Replace the front wheel with disk, being careful not to jam your rotor into the pads. Once the front wheel is correctly installed now you can set the caliper in place. The way I usually set up the brake is to slowly compress the brake lever, keeping the caliper as centered as possible when applying brake pressure. Slowly tighten the bolts down. Release the brake and spin the wheel while listening to make sure that the pads are not contacting the rotor. You may need to re-adjust the brake by loosening the bolts slightly and carefully moving the caliper until you don’t hear it rubbing when spinning the wheel. DO NOT stick your fingers near the rotor while in motion.

Once you are satisfied with the performance of the front brake, apply brake pressure again and torque the caliper bolts to the amount recommended by both the brake and fork manufacturers. If the fork you are installing states a lower torque value, use that one.  The final job is to keep the cable from rubbing on any moving parts. Some forks come with a convenient mounting point, others require a tie wrap.

Now it’s finally time to line up the wheel with the stem and bars. Stand in front of your bike and hold the wheel between your legs. With your hands grab the bars and wiggle them side to side, slowly centering the bars. Once set you can tighten the stem bolts a bit.

Now, double check to see if the bar is straight. Grab the front brake and rock the bike fore and aft while listening and feeling for a light clunk. If the front clunks you may have insufficient pre-load on the stem top cap in which case you’ll need to loosen the two stem bolts slightly and give the top cap bolt a half turn. Keep doing this until the clunk disappears. If the steering suddenly gets too stiff, you went too far on the top cap tension. Once you have the correct tension, line it up and now torque the stem bolts (use the correct torque from the stem manufacturer).

Now – you’re done! You did it!

Cheers.

Just a quick thanks to the folks at Manitou,Hayes and Opus for their support.

Well folks here I am, back at it again. I’ve been spending some time lately checking out what Manitou has to offer in the all mountain/ XC categories of forks. The biggest thing I have to say about the Manitou Minute Elite TPC (MSRP $650.00), is WOW – what an awesome fork right out of the box! No mods are necessary for this one, just a few pumps on the high pressure shock pump to get the correct sag and this fork was hauling up slopes, ripping the trail apart, and soaking up 6 foot drops like they were curb hops.

To help me evaluate the performance of MTB products, I’ve found it best to change just one part at any given time and to use the same test course for consistency. Once again, the course that I chose for my test of the Manitou Elite TPC was Kelso Conservation Area. The course offers singletrack, rock gardens, high G turns, and drops up to 10′. Kelso is also a stop on the DH circuit here in Canada which makes it the perfect setting to thrash this fork.

Installation

First up, I removed my old fork unit, making sure to remove the bottom crown race from the old damper with care. I then measured the steering tube twice to get the correct length and then marked the Minute with a fine felt marker. After measuring a third time I finally cut the steering tube to the correct length using a very sharp pipe cutter. You could go out and purchase a specialized tool such as the SG-6 from Park or you could use a hack saw with a fresh blade in a pinch. Either way is correct, just be sure to finish the job by removing any burrs.  Also, don’t forget to install a fresh star nut (use a nut setter such as the TNS-1) and finally place the fork on the bike (look for a more detailed post on the procedure coming soon). The whole process took me about 35 minutes and after installing the 20mm axle and brake I was good to go.

Setup

A quick ride revealed that I needed to add a bit more pressure in the fork (too much sag). For those who don’t know, sag is the fork compression you get when sitting still on the bike, hands on bars. I set the compression to mid-way from full left and set the rebound to mid-way as well – with the Manitou Minute the ideal sag is about 25%. Whenever setting the sag on the fork it’s a good idea to have the gear and water you will ride with on you, otherwise you will be off. On my first ride I also had to change the compression and rebound settings to compensate for the slight bobbing I got on extended climbs. This particular model is not equipped with a lock out.

Compression

Riding around finding drops and doubles can be exhausting but luckily Kelso makes it all accessible. Right away I found the Minute features plush, smooth control of the fork through it’s entire travel with a bit of ramping (increase in air spring rate) and the end of its stroke. What you get is a fork that is predicable when going off drops and controllable without coming to a dead stop when you touch down. Hitting rock gardens was equally as fun – the fork went through them with no issues, taking each bump equally well.

If you remain seated in your saddle when climbing the levels set with the control knobs will more than compensate for the pedaling forces you generate and will keep you from losing energy. Now with a fork like this, there will be some movement when pedaling but certainly not enough to annoy you. Using the compression knob you can dial out most of the slow shaft speeds that are associated with this, just don’t dial out too much. The great thing about the Minute is its ability to maintain ground control when climbing and braking.  Once you dial in the right settings you’ll want the fork to set about a half inch while under braking but no more than that.  One reason this fork offers such great control is that it produces very little static friction.

Rebound

The rebound circuit on the Minute will control the behavior of the fork when it is returning back to its ride height. Use the control located on the bottom of the fork to control how quickly the fork returns after compression. You know when you’ve got this right when the fork comes back controlled, without wanting to toss you off the bike. Luckily the rebound circuit on this fork works very well once set. Going through rough terrain and watching the fork follow the trail smoothly without beating on my wrists was a definite indicator to me that the rebound and compression circuits are working well.

Overall Impressions

The Manitou Minute Elite is one of those forks that, once you spend the time setting it up correctly, you’d be hard pressed to find another fork that performs as well in the same category. I was very impressed with the fork’s performance, particularly its ability to take both large hits (up to 6 foot drops) and rock gardens. I don’t think I’ve ever ridden a fork that inspired as much confidence as this one has, especially in the 140mm class. The fork always felt smooth, tracked extremely well, and kept me in control. Under braking and climbing the fork maintained wheel contact and never felt like it was blowing through its travel.

The only thing I *might* change on the Minute Elite TPC is the hex bolt through axle configuration. Even though it is very stiff and strong with no chance of damaging the fork, a tool free version would be a welcome addition.

Manitou Specifications:

For those of you who like a more objective rating system, here’s how I rate the Manitou Minute Elite TPC on a 10-point scale:

• Tracking and steering                                                           9
• Rebound control                                                                    8
• Compression control                                                             8
• Construction and quality                                                      8
• Trail worthy (1 for light XC, 10 for extreme FR/DH)     7
• Overall performance & quality                               8.5
  

I also received a press release on Manitou’s latest damper unit that will be available on the 2010 year models and can be added to existing 2007  R7, Minute, and Drake forks. The unit is called the Absolute + and it allows you to more finely tune your fork. The Low and High speed compression circuits can be tuned independently from one another plus the unit includes a lockout feature. Manitou will also be releasing a lockout lever called the MILO which will be available in a right hand version only.

So stay tuned – who says you can’t make a great fork even better?

Just a quick thanks to the folks at Manitou for the chance to review their product. Oh yeah – and be sure to check out the new Manitou website – it’s updated with all the new forks as well as a wealth of information for all their stuff.