Mountain bikes are personal items, and we all customize ours to some degree. Still, our preferences changes and skills evolve, and as a result our bikes are really just works in progress.
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I would like to get my trail bike down to about 27 lbs. It currently weighs in at 30. However, it is less expensive for me to lose 3 lbs. So, I keep telling myself save your money and stop eating so much.
I wish that my bikes were spaced more consistently. It’s boost in front and non-boost in back, meaning that its difficult to upgrade wheelsets. If I had non-boost spacing out front and in back, then I’d be able to swap wheels with my cyclocross bike. If I had boost in front and back, then I’d have compatibility with my wife’s bike and it would be easier to buy replacement wheels.
CX bike – 12×100, 12×142
MTB bike – 15×110, 12×142
Wifes CX bike – 15×100, 12×142
Wifes MTB – 15×110, 12×148
This is kooky. Each bike has a 622mm bead seat diameter and disc brakes, and was manufactured between 2017 and 2019. We got a 650b wheelset to share between us on our cross bikes to make them more sendy – still searching for the 12mm endcaps so that I can try them. I’m at the point where I’m considering making my own endcaps in the machine shop. I would love to be able to give my wife a wheel in the pit, or to share a nice set of carbon race wheels for either bike. Even if we just had compatibility between CX or MTB’s it would be a win.
Anyway there is hardly any weight savings in moving away from 15mm front axles on road/cross bikes, and the benefits from boost spacing on a cross country mountain bike is spurious. If the industry stuck to 15×100 and 12×142 across the board it would encourage people to buy more bikes or to buy more wheels. Especially in that with older 135mm mountain wheels the switch to 142 spacing is a simple end cap swap.
The price haha
Rear cassette because it’s a GX and heavy. One of those things I ride till it’s worn out and upgrade then though.
I love my bike! Maybe it’s just for the bling and ease of service, but chain guide mounts and a threaded bottom bracket really can keep a bike in best condition and less maintenance after a year or two. Was excited to run Sram group and after two years very jazzed to replace it with Shimano. Down the line might upgrade hubs or change to a Fox fork. I can’t afford a new bike every year or even every couple years but keeping it rolling and planning upgrades is one way to keep pushing for every ride and appreciate all that is out there.
I have a Scott Spark RC 900 SL. I wouldn’t change a thing!
One thing is a wheelset for Sunspot. Onyx hubs once more since zero lash engagement is an addiction as much as color to replace the dreaded “Hearse Black”. Pithy little dirt ripper gets to be bitchen!
Nothing, I like it just the way I had it built. It’s a Yeti sb130 T3 with carbon wheels and AXS shifting.
I’d change my steel hardail from QR to thru axles (the bike isn’t all that ancient, it’s a 2015 and I have two other, newer bikes). I’ve been looking at newer steel hardtails but none of them seem to have the same character in what I want in a steel hardtail without going to a custom built frame.
Not a thing. I‘ve been mtn biking since 1987 and I’m current riding my third bike. It’s a Specialized Epic Hardtail Pro Carbon (2016) that I bought 2nd hand from my nephew. I’m having the time of my life on it. The bike it replaced had 27” wheels, caliper brakes, triple crank, and was at least 30 lbs. This bike has 29ers, SRAM components, and weighs in at 21 lbs. It’s like a whole new sport. I roadride which keeps my legs strong for mtn biking, now my favorite non winter sport.