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Okay, I’m a little frustrated. I’m determined to shed my reliance on the LBS for basic maintenance, but I have spent hours trying to adjust my rear derailleur (Shimano SLX M662 Shadow), but can’t get it right. I’m using the Zinn bike maintenance book as a guide and have gone through the steps over and over. I guess I’ll take it to the LBS because I just want it fixed (and my front needs some work too). I wonder what I am missing though. Any thoughts?
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What specific symptoms are you having? Maybe we can narrow it down to a specific issue.
Some times it helps to read it from someewhere different as well. Try Shimano’s website or even the tutorial on this site.
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"GoldenGoose" wrote
What specific symptoms are you having? Maybe we can narrow it down to a specific issue.
Hmmm, well, I’ve messed with it so much my symptoms have changed. I think where I left it last night it was shifting pretty smoothly toward the largest rear cog, but was hesitating/skipping when shifting toward the smallest cog.
On top of everything else, I think the results of my barrel adjustments may have been hampered because I was using my hitch mount bike rack as a bike stand. If there is pressure on the cables, then it might affect the results I see when adjusting, right?
I felt like I was going in circles. Example: following the guide, I would adjust the high gear limit and get that feeling right, then I’d adjust the low gear limit and get that feeling right, go to the middle cog and adjust the barrel adjusters. By the time I finished, it was like whatever I did along the way offset what I adjusted previously. Then again, maybe I’m just crazy…
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I’ve looked over the tutorial that element22 posted on this site, and I found a couple of references on the Shimano site. I’ll keep digging and maybe I can get enough different perspectives to triangulate a better understanding of the whole picture.
I’m riding tonight…I hope it doesn’t give me fits!
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How worn is the chain/cassette? How old are the cables?
Sometimes when stuff is getting marginal, no amount of tuning will get it working correctly. I replace my chain and cassette pretty much every spring.
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"ChiliPepper" wrote
[quote="8valvegrowl":19gcmbtl]How worn is the chain/cassette? How old are the cables?
Sometimes when stuff is getting marginal, no amount of tuning will get it working correctly. I replace my chain and cassette pretty much every spring.
True, very true! Yeah, keep in mind that if the freewheel cassette cogs are wore out, the chain will jump and skip around, but that goes as well with a wore out chain as well. You definitely want to have those cables checked as well. 😉
Sounds like you need to adjust the barrel adjustment after making sure that your H & L stops are correct. Check the B adjustment as well.[/quote:19gcmbtl]
I was wondering about. As a matter of fact, I am pretty sure there are some cogs on my cassette that are out of line a bit. To answer your question though, they are the original cassette, chain, and cables. I bought the bike in April of 2009. I’ve got about 500 miles on it. Time to replace?
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One other note while your checking the condition of your chain.
Make sure its not bent…
back pedal and look at the chain (best to look from the back of the bike to the front of the bike). and make sure all the links are straight and not twisted. That could make life frustrating when trying to nail down whats wrong.
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Thanks again for the suggestions. I did some more adjusting of the H and L last night before my ride and all in all it didn’t give me too much trouble. I still think it needs some attention though. I’ll keep tweaking and maybe look at replacing some parts. Is there a time/mileage recommendation for replacing chains, cassettes, etc., or it is more based on condition?
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They make a tool for checking chain stretch.
I base mine off of visible wear, you can see when the cassette teeth are starting to wear/get marred.
500 miles is not unusual to replace drivetrain components, depending on riding conditions and maintenance.
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I checked out the tool on Price Point. Seems pretty affordable. What about cassettes? Are they pretty interchangeable as long as I get a 9-spd? I see prices a broad range of prices…
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Yeah 9-Spd cassettes are pretty much all compatable. The difference in price is material choices and weight savings. If your getting one a good balance in price to weight and performance is the Shimano XT or the PG-980 from Sram.. Pretty light and not to costly..
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Price Point has a 2009 SRAM 980 for $47 vs. $70 for a 2010 and $80 for the Shimano XT. I currently run a SRAM PG950 11-32T. These cassettes are also offered in a 11-34T. What are the pros and cons to changing to a 11-34T. Are their any compatability issues I should know about?
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I’ll third the PG-980. Great cassette for the $.
As for 11-34T cassette. The 34T will yield a little easier spinning, especially in the middle ring, I find that the granny gear with a 34T is almost unusable.
Only 1 issue with swapping from an 11-32 to an 11-34, and that is chain length/derailleur cage size, but if you are buying a new chain, when you install both, just be aware that the new chain will need to be slightly longer to accomodate the bigger sprocket. I wouldn’t worry about the derailleur cage, as it’s only an issue if you are running triple front rings (or a big double ring setup) and trying to run a mid cage derailleur.
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"8valvegrowl" wrote
I’ll third the PG-980. Great cassette for the $.
As for 11-34T cassette. The 34T will yield a little easier spinning, especially in the middle ring, I find that the granny gear with a 34T is almost unusable.
Only 1 issue with swapping from an 11-32 to an 11-34, and that is chain length/derailleur cage size, but if you are buying a new chain, when you install both, just be aware that the new chain will need to be slightly longer to accomodate the bigger sprocket. I wouldn’t worry about the derailleur cage, as it’s only an issue if you are running triple front rings (or a big double ring setup) and trying to run a mid cage derailleur.
Well, I don’t need easier pedaling, so I’ll stick with the 32. I’ve looked at some tutorials for replacing the cassette. It seems pretty straighforward, but is it? Especially for someone mechanically challenged (but trying to learn)? In other words, is it a beginner level job, or is it better left to the pros?
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This is the best vid I’ve seen, he explains it so simple it’s easy to understand,, good luck…
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkzvfCaIbyQ
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