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The LBS closed down so I bought some tools and am feeling frisky. I am thinking a good winter project for me is a new front crank and chain ring. I have noticed I never use the smallest chain ring or the biggest so I want to go to one chain ring. Need to know a good reasonably priced product. Basically the most bang for my buck. Right now I have the stock chain ring for a 2010 Trek Top Fuel 8.
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Here’s a great resource for converting to a single chainring. There may be more to it than you realized…
[url:32yq5ks4]http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/trail-tech-how-to-convert-to-a-1x-drivetrain-37451/[/url:32yq5ks4]
Best bang for your buck would be the chainguide option they mentioned, because you could keep your current set up – just remove the small and large chainrings. But as they say, special front chain rings AND a rear dearilleur with a clutch is the best bet. (But high $$.) Good luck on your project! Should be fun.
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Thanks. Will read the article now. And then just need to find a chain guide and possibly a new chain ring right from the start.
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I’ve been riding a 1×8 since I came back to riding a mountain bike, was a roadie for 20+ years but road mtb before that. I remembered that I didn’t really use the big and small rings so when I built-up my bike I went for a single speed crank and a 34 chain ring. I do have a chain retainer on the crank and on occasion drop the chain given the right circumstances. Not a biggie though. I’m a big fan of a 1x for sure.
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Probably more than you want to jump into but it might offer a couple of options. I had a Stylo SS crank, and just moved into a 1×10, with X9 type 2 rear derailleur and shifter, Wolftooth chainring… it shifts like butter. Plus, no need for chain guide with the type 2. Endless is also coming out with chainrings… love their stuff.
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I went from 3X8 to 1X9 a couple of years ago and life is great! Picked up a discounted Race Face Evolve crankset (previous years model) online and added a Race Face 38T chainring designed for a 1 X setup…not a big deal but chainrings have ramping on the teeth to accomdate front gear changes so it isn’t necessary with a 1 X setup. Your middle chainring right now is probably a 32T (+/-) so the 38T gives me a little more top end while demanding a little more leg muscle on the climbs. That’s easy to swap out if you’re going to ride different trails with more climbs. I did all the work myself and the Park tools I bought more than paid for themselves. The other consideration you want to ponder is a short cage derailleur for the rear cassette. Your 3 X setup probably includes a long cage derailleur to soak up the slack associated with 3 chainrings up front. You dont’ need it with a 1 X setup so a short cage derrailleur will make gear changes really crisp and snappy. This is not a requirement but is the logical evolution of a 1 X drivetrain.Here are my lessons learned and what I did:
1) Race Face Evolve crankset (came with 32T single ring but picked up a 38T single ring for the type of riding I do). Do your research as there are tons of great cranksets–I picked Race Face because of affordability, reliability, made in N.A. and they are EXTREMEMLY easy to install.
2) A chainguide was absolutely essential and I went with MRPs "1X" chainguide made specifically for 1 X setups with a cross country/free ride focus. Works flawlessly. I’ve never dropped a chain on the trail.
3) After riding this way for a while I decided to complete my drivetrain transformation. I picked up an X9 rear cassette (and short cage derraileur) along with the X9 gear shift lever. A 9 speed chain completed the transformation.My bike is not a "high end" carbon machine so that’s why I went with the componenets that I did. You might want to increase or decrease the quality of your build but mine is a great balance of value and quality.Couldn’t be happier.Good luck!
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Thanks for the advice. Now I just need to buy the parts and try. Also think I need a crank puller tool right?
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"topjimmy" wrote
Thanks for the advice. Now I just need to buy the parts and try. Also think I need a crank puller tool right?
If it’s a 2010, it probably doesn’t use a traditional crank puller. Check out this video, because it’s likely what you’ll have to do.
[url:3fy5089t]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCDcJ1W9Doo[/url:3fy5089t]
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New front chain-ring, cassette and chain installed. Weighed all the stuff I took off and it shaved a pound off the total weight of the bike. Not a gram junkie though. Hopefully I will try it out tomorrow or Sunday. Once the bike is washed I will update with photos.
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Out with the old:
In with the new:
New cassette as well with the new chain:
Had a chance to test it today and it works great. I am so glad I did this.
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Looks awesome!! I’m a little envious : ) Remember: if you find your chain falling off the front chainring, option 1 is to get a chainguard, option 2 is to upgrade to a SLX + rear derailleur (the "+" means it has a mechanism that reduces chain bounce).
Keep us posted! I’d love to find out if that chainring is sufficient to keep the chain from falling off.
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Well I rode 5 miles and the chain did not come off. From what I understand with this Race Face chain ring you don’t need a guide.
From the description on Amazon:
[i:1hpehk85]"Narrow Wide tooth profiling ensures ultimate chain retention"[/i:1hpehk85]
[url:1hpehk85]http://www.amazon.com/Race-Face-104mm-Single-Chain/dp/B00DBRV9EK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_8[/url:1hpehk85]
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"topjimmy" wrote
From what I understand with this Race Face chain ring you don’t need a guide.
Right, but in conjunction with a clutch rear derailleur. I don’t own any of this single ring stuff, but I think the idea is that as you have it you may drop your chain on some serious bumps, whereas with the derailleur too you’d be fine. But if I were you I’d say having to put chain back on once every 75 miles isn’t that big of a deal!!
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