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What is the general rule of thumb when selecting frame size on a MTB?
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Check out these articles for more info:
http://www.singletracks.com/blog/uncate … w-it-fits/
http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-tr … ike-a-pro/
http://www.gregridestrails.com/2011/01/ … lf-on.html -
Amazing write ups. Also, if you are buying new – the folks at your LBS should fit you before you ever buy the bike. If they don’t offer such a thing, I would look for a different bike shop. I had one sell me a large frame without even offering to fit me and that was back before I knew ANYTHING about sizes or mountain bikes for that matter. Luckily, my second bike was purchased at a different shop that fit me perfectly for it and made sure I was comfortable prior to buying. If you are buying second hand, those write ups are what you need
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"mtbgreg1" wrote
Check out these articles for more info:
http://www.singletracks.com/blog/uncate … w-it-fits/
http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-tr … ike-a-pro/
http://www.gregridestrails.com/2011/01/ … lf-on.htmlThat’s why this site is great, information is always at your finger tips and the sources can be trusted.
Great informative articles guys!
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Since you just asked for a "general rule of thumb" reading pages of bike fit info may not be exactly what you’re looking for, so here’s a generic fit statement that most company’s utilize:
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What about going up one size like from 17.5 to 18.5 and shortening the stem? I am a natural fit for a 17.5 but it was suggested to try an 18.5 and to shorten the stem for a more aggressive ride. Any thoughts on this idea?
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"Gdb49" wrote
What about going up one size like from 17.5 to 18.5 and shortening the stem? I am a natural fit for a 17.5 but it was suggested to try an 18.5 and to shorten the stem for a more aggressive ride. Any thoughts on this idea?
I just went from a 16 to a 17.5, only because the bike I just got was 1) secondhand and 2) only came in either 15 or 17.5. I don’t think going smaller would have been a good idea. That being said, I had to lower the stem all the way to feel comfortable, but I have not done a proper fitting yet. Your best bet is to go to a shop and see how the sizes feel. I think that is one easy and free way to do it
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"Gdb49" wrote
What about going up one size like from 17.5 to 18.5 and shortening the stem? I am a natural fit for a 17.5 but it was suggested to try an 18.5 and to shorten the stem for a more aggressive ride. Any thoughts on this idea?
So basically you will end up with exactly the same size top tube, but potentially have your weight further back in relation to the center of the bike.
My thought on that is where were you back when I was in sales? 😼
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Keep an eye on headtube length and standover height.
Bigger bike = longer wheelbase = not as manuverable.
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But .. But … the sales guy said it’s a more aggressive ride!!!
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Bigger bike = longer wheelbase = not as manuverable.
What he said.
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Sounds like the old trick of having the bigger bike in stock, so lets sell it, even if it doesn’t fit, and then make him buy a new stem also! I’d wait while they order you the right size, personally, or go to a different shop.
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Sales guy is legit, I was planning on buying a bike anyways. It was not an atempt to jack me. Not much loss in manueverability with a jump from 17.5 to 18.5 and the weight back would be nice for big drops and steep stuff, which is what I like to ride. I’m 5’10" so 18.5 is not much of a stretch. Just tinkering with the idea and knew I’d get some good advice on this site.
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"Gdb49" wrote
the weight back would be nice for big drops and steep stuff
If you are are into more aggressive riding then you would defiantly want the smaller of the two frames!
It has been said twice already, but I honestly and truly feel it needs mentioning again.
"dgaddis" wroteBigger bike = longer wheelbase = not as maneuverable.
In the end you are the one riding the bike and if it feels good to you when you throw a leg over it then go for it!
"I remember someone saying once that its easier to make a small frame feel bigger then it is to make a bigger frame feel smaller"
Is this correct, no clue. Just get the frame that suits you the best. -
"I remember someone saying once that its easier to make a small frame feel bigger then it is to make a bigger frame feel smaller"
Is this correct, no clue. Just get the frame that suits you the best.[/quote]
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"Gdb49" wrote
Sales guy is legit, I was planning on buying a bike anyways. It was not an atempt to jack me. Not much loss in manueverability with a jump from 17.5 to 18.5 and the weight back would be nice for big drops and steep stuff, which is what I like to ride. I’m 5’10" so 18.5 is not much of a stretch. Just tinkering with the idea and knew I’d get some good advice on this site.
Being your height is 5’10", what is your weight? Weight has a big factor in frame size as well, especially in FR discipline riding. I am 6′ and weigh in at around 210 and all my FR/DH bikes are medium frame bikes which usually fall into a 17" to 18" frame size. I will say this, it is much harder to maneuver or throw tricks with a larger frame, and a larger frame is kinda of clumsy on step-downs (ledge drops to trans or flat). I do not see why a 18.5" would change it much, as this is just the seat-stay measurement. What you need to be concerned about is the top-tube length change and chain-stay length. A 1/2" is not much, but a 1" change is a big difference in FR/DH, especially with the chain-stay.
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"CP1" wrote
[quote="Gdb49":2a77ad7w]Sales guy is legit, I was planning on buying a bike anyways. It was not an atempt to jack me. Not much loss in manueverability with a jump from 17.5 to 18.5 and the weight back would be nice for big drops and steep stuff, which is what I like to ride. I’m 5’10" so 18.5 is not much of a stretch. Just tinkering with the idea and knew I’d get some good advice on this site.
Being your height is 5’10", what is your weight? Weight has a big factor in frame size as well, especially in FR discipline riding. I am 6′ and weigh in at around 210 and all my FR/DH bikes are medium frame bikes which usually fall into a 17" to 18" frame size. I will say this, it is much harder to maneuver or throw tricks with a larger frame, and a larger frame is kinda of clumsy on step-downs (ledge drops to trans or flat). I do not see why a 18.5" would change it much, as this is just the seat-stay measurement. What you need to be concerned about is the top-tube length change and chain-stay length. A 1/2" is not much, but a 1" change is a big difference in FR/DH, especially with the chain-stay.[/quote:2a77ad7w]
Chainstay length is generally the same on every size frame. Whether that’s a good thing or not is another thread haha.
I don’t see how weight has anything to do with frame size. Body proportions do however. A 5’10" rider with really long arms will want a larger frame than a 5’10" person with little t-rex arms.
But, at 5’10" you might fit a large frame better, or you might like how it feels anyways. I’m the same height and I like a long top tube, so I ride a large for most companies. I like being stretched out. I’m just doing go-fast XC riding though, not freeride type stuff.
Ride both sizes, buy the one that feels best.
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"dgaddis" wrote
I’m the same height and I like a long top tube, so I ride a large for most companies. I like being stretched out. I’m just doing go-fast XC riding though, not freeride type stuff.
I was speaking of FR/DH disciplined riding, not laid forward XC discipline riding, thus why FR/DH was mentioned, not XC. Large bikes are clumsy with FR/DH unless you are a big guy, and obviously he is not (height that is…lol). As per weight, yes, large frame bikes are typically built stronger than medium frame bikes, and the taller and especially heavier the rider is, a more large frame would help in the landing scenario.
Ride both sizes, buy the one that feels best.Yes, I agree with your sentiments here. Do try both. However, there are medium size frames with longer top-tubes as well. 😉
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See, this is why I shoot out these questions. 2 days later and I have more info than I could get in a month of riding 😆 And that’s if I could hold of 10 bikes!
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just read an article by the owner of Betterrides and he recommends buying a larger frame and shortening the stem and widening your bars.
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