Bombardier

I'm currently in the United States Army, and became an avid mountainbiker/gearhead in 2005. Due to a back injury during my last tour in Iraq, my moutainbiking has been curtailed severely, but my love of anything with two-wheel pedal power has not.
 
A tool kit organized in a gray case, featuring various bicycle maintenance tools including wrenches, a chain tool, and hex keys, all neatly arranged. The case is open and sitting on a wooden surface.
  1
A flat lay image featuring bicycle maintenance items, including two chains, a SRAM packaging box, a pack labeled "8," a set of sprockets, and additional components arranged on a textured black surface.
  3
A chain tool featuring a blue handle and a black base, positioned beside a section of bicycle chain. The tool is designed for connecting or disconnecting links in the chain.
  1
A green vintage bike with wide tires and a unique curved frame is positioned on a wooden surface. The bike features a distinctive handlebar design, a spring seat, and is set against a backdrop of wooden panels and a closed door.
This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket.  With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain.  Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools.  A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1711" title="toolkit" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1712" title="allenkey" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey-156x300.jpg" alt="" width="156" height="300" /></a>

a crank-puller,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1713" title="cranktool1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1714" title="bb-tool" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key.  This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1716" title="crank1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1717" title="crank3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller.  This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1718" title="cranktool3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1719" title="cranktool4" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle.  Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1720" title="cup-driveside" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside-256x300.jpg" alt="" width="256" height="300" /></a>

NOTE:  This bike is equipped with a chainguide.  For our purposes here, I'll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1721" title="cupremoval1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

NOTE:  On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" will not work here.  This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power!  Keep that in mind, so if you're trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won't budge, try turning it the other way.  There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1722" title="cupremoval2" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

There!  You're done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process.  Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE!  When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten!  Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs.  Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1723" title="done" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>
This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket.  With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain.  Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools.  A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1711" title="toolkit" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1712" title="allenkey" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey-156x300.jpg" alt="" width="156" height="300" /></a>

a crank-puller,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1713" title="cranktool1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1714" title="bb-tool" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key.  This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1716" title="crank1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1717" title="crank3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller.  This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1718" title="cranktool3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1719" title="cranktool4" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle.  Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1720" title="cup-driveside" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside-256x300.jpg" alt="" width="256" height="300" /></a>

NOTE:  This bike is equipped with a chainguide.  For our purposes here, I'll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1721" title="cupremoval1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

NOTE:  On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" will not work here.  This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power!  Keep that in mind, so if you're trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won't budge, try turning it the other way.  There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1722" title="cupremoval2" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

There!  You're done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process.  Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE!  When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten!  Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs.  Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1723" title="done" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>
  1
This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket.  With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain.  Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools.  A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1711" title="toolkit" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1712" title="allenkey" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey-156x300.jpg" alt="" width="156" height="300" /></a>

a crank-puller,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1713" title="cranktool1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1714" title="bb-tool" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key.  This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1716" title="crank1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1717" title="crank3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller.  This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1718" title="cranktool3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1719" title="cranktool4" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle.  Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1720" title="cup-driveside" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside-256x300.jpg" alt="" width="256" height="300" /></a>

NOTE:  This bike is equipped with a chainguide.  For our purposes here, I'll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1721" title="cupremoval1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

NOTE:  On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" will not work here.  This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power!  Keep that in mind, so if you're trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won't budge, try turning it the other way.  There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1722" title="cupremoval2" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

There!  You're done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process.  Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE!  When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten!  Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs.  Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1723" title="done" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>
This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket.  With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain.  Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools.  A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1711" title="toolkit" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1712" title="allenkey" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey-156x300.jpg" alt="" width="156" height="300" /></a>

a crank-puller,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1713" title="cranktool1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1714" title="bb-tool" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key.  This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1716" title="crank1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1717" title="crank3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller.  This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1718" title="cranktool3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1719" title="cranktool4" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle.  Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1720" title="cup-driveside" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside-256x300.jpg" alt="" width="256" height="300" /></a>

NOTE:  This bike is equipped with a chainguide.  For our purposes here, I'll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1721" title="cupremoval1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

NOTE:  On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" will not work here.  This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power!  Keep that in mind, so if you're trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won't budge, try turning it the other way.  There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1722" title="cupremoval2" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

There!  You're done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process.  Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE!  When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten!  Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs.  Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1723" title="done" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>
This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket.  With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain.  Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools.  A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1711" title="toolkit" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1712" title="allenkey" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey-156x300.jpg" alt="" width="156" height="300" /></a>

a crank-puller,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1713" title="cranktool1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1714" title="bb-tool" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key.  This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1716" title="crank1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1717" title="crank3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller.  This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1718" title="cranktool3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1719" title="cranktool4" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle.  Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1720" title="cup-driveside" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside-256x300.jpg" alt="" width="256" height="300" /></a>

NOTE:  This bike is equipped with a chainguide.  For our purposes here, I'll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1721" title="cupremoval1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

NOTE:  On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" will not work here.  This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power!  Keep that in mind, so if you're trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won't budge, try turning it the other way.  There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1722" title="cupremoval2" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

There!  You're done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process.  Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE!  When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten!  Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs.  Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1723" title="done" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>
This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket.  With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain.  Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools.  A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1711" title="toolkit" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1712" title="allenkey" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey-156x300.jpg" alt="" width="156" height="300" /></a>

a crank-puller,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1713" title="cranktool1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1714" title="bb-tool" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key.  This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1716" title="crank1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1717" title="crank3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller.  This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1718" title="cranktool3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1719" title="cranktool4" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle.  Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1720" title="cup-driveside" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside-256x300.jpg" alt="" width="256" height="300" /></a>

NOTE:  This bike is equipped with a chainguide.  For our purposes here, I'll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1721" title="cupremoval1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

NOTE:  On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" will not work here.  This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power!  Keep that in mind, so if you're trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won't budge, try turning it the other way.  There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1722" title="cupremoval2" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

There!  You're done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process.  Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE!  When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten!  Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs.  Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1723" title="done" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>
This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket.  With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain.  Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools.  A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1711" title="toolkit" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1712" title="allenkey" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey-156x300.jpg" alt="" width="156" height="300" /></a>

a crank-puller,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1713" title="cranktool1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1714" title="bb-tool" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key.  This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1716" title="crank1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1717" title="crank3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller.  This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1718" title="cranktool3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1719" title="cranktool4" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle.  Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1720" title="cup-driveside" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside-256x300.jpg" alt="" width="256" height="300" /></a>

NOTE:  This bike is equipped with a chainguide.  For our purposes here, I'll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1721" title="cupremoval1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

NOTE:  On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" will not work here.  This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power!  Keep that in mind, so if you're trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won't budge, try turning it the other way.  There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1722" title="cupremoval2" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

There!  You're done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process.  Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE!  When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten!  Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs.  Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1723" title="done" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>
  1
This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket.  With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain.  Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools.  A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1711" title="toolkit" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1712" title="allenkey" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey-156x300.jpg" alt="" width="156" height="300" /></a>

a crank-puller,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1713" title="cranktool1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1714" title="bb-tool" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key.  This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1716" title="crank1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1717" title="crank3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller.  This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1718" title="cranktool3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1719" title="cranktool4" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle.  Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1720" title="cup-driveside" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside-256x300.jpg" alt="" width="256" height="300" /></a>

NOTE:  This bike is equipped with a chainguide.  For our purposes here, I'll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1721" title="cupremoval1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

NOTE:  On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" will not work here.  This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power!  Keep that in mind, so if you're trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won't budge, try turning it the other way.  There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1722" title="cupremoval2" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

There!  You're done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process.  Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE!  When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten!  Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs.  Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1723" title="done" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>
  1
This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket.  With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain.  Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools.  A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1711" title="toolkit" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1712" title="allenkey" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey-156x300.jpg" alt="" width="156" height="300" /></a>

a crank-puller,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1713" title="cranktool1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1714" title="bb-tool" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key.  This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1716" title="crank1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1717" title="crank3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller.  This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1718" title="cranktool3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1719" title="cranktool4" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle.  Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1720" title="cup-driveside" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside-256x300.jpg" alt="" width="256" height="300" /></a>

NOTE:  This bike is equipped with a chainguide.  For our purposes here, I'll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1721" title="cupremoval1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

NOTE:  On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" will not work here.  This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power!  Keep that in mind, so if you're trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won't budge, try turning it the other way.  There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1722" title="cupremoval2" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

There!  You're done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process.  Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE!  When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten!  Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs.  Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1723" title="done" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>
  1
This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket.  With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain.  Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools.  A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1711" title="toolkit" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1712" title="allenkey" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey-156x300.jpg" alt="" width="156" height="300" /></a>

a crank-puller,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1713" title="cranktool1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1714" title="bb-tool" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key.  This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1716" title="crank1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1717" title="crank3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller.  This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1718" title="cranktool3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1719" title="cranktool4" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle.  Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1720" title="cup-driveside" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside-256x300.jpg" alt="" width="256" height="300" /></a>

NOTE:  This bike is equipped with a chainguide.  For our purposes here, I'll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1721" title="cupremoval1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

NOTE:  On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" will not work here.  This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power!  Keep that in mind, so if you're trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won't budge, try turning it the other way.  There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1722" title="cupremoval2" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

There!  You're done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process.  Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE!  When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten!  Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs.  Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1723" title="done" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>
This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket.  With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain.  Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools.  A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1711" title="toolkit" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1712" title="allenkey" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey-156x300.jpg" alt="" width="156" height="300" /></a>

a crank-puller,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1713" title="cranktool1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1714" title="bb-tool" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key.  This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1716" title="crank1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1717" title="crank3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller.  This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1718" title="cranktool3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1719" title="cranktool4" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle.  Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1720" title="cup-driveside" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside-256x300.jpg" alt="" width="256" height="300" /></a>

NOTE:  This bike is equipped with a chainguide.  For our purposes here, I'll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1721" title="cupremoval1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

NOTE:  On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" will not work here.  This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power!  Keep that in mind, so if you're trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won't budge, try turning it the other way.  There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1722" title="cupremoval2" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

There!  You're done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process.  Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE!  When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten!  Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs.  Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1723" title="done" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>
This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket.  With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain.  Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools.  A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1711" title="toolkit" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1712" title="allenkey" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey-156x300.jpg" alt="" width="156" height="300" /></a>

a crank-puller,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1713" title="cranktool1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1714" title="bb-tool" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key.  This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1716" title="crank1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1717" title="crank3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller.  This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1718" title="cranktool3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1719" title="cranktool4" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle.  Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1720" title="cup-driveside" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside-256x300.jpg" alt="" width="256" height="300" /></a>

NOTE:  This bike is equipped with a chainguide.  For our purposes here, I'll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1721" title="cupremoval1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

NOTE:  On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" will not work here.  This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power!  Keep that in mind, so if you're trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won't budge, try turning it the other way.  There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1722" title="cupremoval2" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

There!  You're done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process.  Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE!  When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten!  Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs.  Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1723" title="done" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>
This article illustrates how to remove an internal-cup ISIS bottom-bracket.  With the proper tools, this job will take at the very most 10 minutes, given a bike that has been well taken care of. I say again, this is a walk-through for removal of INTERNAL BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.

Not illustrated is the removal of the chain.  Though not completely necessary, I like to remove it as it would otherwise pull on the front derailleur cage.

The first step is to obtain the proper tools.  A good beginning toolkit is one similar to this:

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1711" title="toolkit" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/toolkit-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

The three specific tools needed for this job are a hex-key,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1712" title="allenkey" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/allenkey-156x300.jpg" alt="" width="156" height="300" /></a>

a crank-puller,

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1713" title="cranktool1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool1.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

and a bottom-bracket cup remover.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1714" title="bb-tool" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bb-tool-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Now, remove the crank end caps with your hex-key.  This will expose the threads for installing the crankarm removal tool.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1716" title="crank1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank1-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1717" title="crank3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/crank3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

Next, install the crankarm removal tool, and use a 15mm wrench or socket to tighten the puller.  This will pull the crankarm off the bottom-bracket splines.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1718" title="cranktool3" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool3-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1719" title="cranktool4" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cranktool4-224x300.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a>

Good, your crankarms are removed from the bottom-bracket spindle.  Again, this walk-through is only good for internal-cup bottom-brackets!

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1720" title="cup-driveside" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cup-driveside-256x300.jpg" alt="" width="256" height="300" /></a>

NOTE:  This bike is equipped with a chainguide.  For our purposes here, I'll skip the removal and installation of this part.

Install the bottom-bracket cup removal tool into the splined interface.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1721" title="cupremoval1" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval1-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>

NOTE:  On the right side of the bracket shell, the threads will be reversed, so "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty" will not work here.  This is to keep the bearing cups from walking out of the bottom-bracket shell under power!  Keep that in mind, so if you're trying to loosen up a bearing cup and it won't budge, try turning it the other way.  There should not be that much torque put on any of these fasteners.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1722" title="cupremoval2" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/cupremoval2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>

There!  You're done!

When reinstalling your bottom-bracket, make sure you use a quality lock-tite compound on all the threads of any component you removed in this process.  Reinstallation is the exact opposite of what is written here.

NOTE!  When reinstalling the bottom-bracket cups, do not over-tighten!  Pay attention to the instructions that came with your new bottom-bracket, or look online for the proper torque specs.  Overtightening can cause the bearings to bind, which will lead to galling and catastrophic failure.

<a href="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1723" title="done" src="https://www.singletracks.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/done-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>
  2