Today I have something from Truvativ that has just been “declassified” from the company’s Blackbox technology group. The Descendant crank has actually been around since 2009 and was initially tested by Peaty himself. And unlike some cranks out there that are all about the bling, the Descendant crank is all about the business of performing on the slopes.

The Descendant crank arms are made from forged AL-7050-TV, the same material that’s regularly used in aerospace landing gear and bulkhead construction. The cranks share the same forging technology and design techniques as the Holzfeller but that’s basically where the similarities end. Truvativ managed to get the Descendant’s weight down to 822 grams which is especially impressive considering that the SRAM X9 crankset that I reviewed just a little while back comes in heavier at 845 grams. Sure the X9 has two chain rings but remember, the Descendant is made for the gravity crowd where parts have to be beefier, stiffer, and stronger. Just think about it – that’s about 240 grams lighter than the Holzfeller, 150 grams lighter than Saint, and 100 grams lighter than RaceFace Atlas FR!

Of course weight savings are great but they don’t mean squat if a crank can’t endure the abuse of DH and FR mountain biking. On any bike the crankset is the most important link between man and machine and it’s really a spot where you don’t want unnecessary flexing. Fortunately the Descendant over-delivers on the promise of high strength and stiffness (more on that later).

Another great thing about the new Descendant crank is the options that are offered. With three crank arm lengths (165, 170, 175mm) and two chain ring options (36 or 38) along with 73mm or 83mm bottom bracket options you’re pretty much covered. Now speaking of the bottom bracket (a sore spot for many cranks), the new Team GXP bottom bracket comes with Gutter seal technology and a new forged cup design. The gutter seal basically keeps junk out and reduces seal drag which means more power goes toward turning the crank instead of overcoming drag.

Unlike multi-ring cranks, the chain ring on the Descendant doesn’t feature shift ramps. Instead, the rings are machined from AL-7075 T and cut to a 4mm thickness so they’re still compatible with the present 8, 9, or 10spd systems. The chain ring is held in place with steel bolts and I opted to run an e*thirteen SRS+ chain retention system rather than risk bashing off the frame’s ISCG tabs. Although it might look better to show off the crank and ring, I decided to work with the strength of the crank’s spindle and bolted up the bash guard there instead. Besides, it’s cheaper to replace a bash guard than to replace a frame if the tabs get bent.

Installing the cranks was a piece of cake using a standard 16-notch external BB tool. Follow the easy to understand, full color instructions for proper spacer installation. Also remember to use a high quality grease to lube the cups before installation and add a touch of lube to the spindle before installing the non-drive side of the crank. As always, torque everything down precisely using a digital torque wrench like the D-Torq DX from Topeak. Remember, when it comes to torque, too much of a good thing is no good at all.

Hitting the Trail

I was really impressed with the solid feel of the Descendant crank on my Banshee Legend II. While hitting step-downs and decent-sized jumps I immediately noticed the stiffness of the cranks upon landing. I had no worries about things bending because I really didn’t felt much flex at all. Even when pedaling hard on the flats the crank felt rock solid with zero visible wobble. Even after casing it a more than a few times and bashing the cranks on rock gardens, the cranks stayed straight with just a few scratches on the ends of the crank arms.

Let’s face it, if the Descendant crankset is good enough to carry pro mountain bikers like Peaty to 17 podium finishes, 7 world cup wins, and the top three places the 2009 World Championships, it’s good enough for you and me. At just $185 MSRP you’re getting a lot of crank for your money.

Thanks to the folks at Truvativ for sending up the Descendant crank for review.

Pssst – hey you on that DH bike – wanna drop some weight and increase performance on your rig? I though so. At 5.98lbs, the BoXXer WC is probably the lightest 200mm DH fork on the market today – the next closest contender I know of is the 6.4lb Manitou Dorado MRD – so you’re looking at a good half pound off that front end of yours. The weight savings alone are huge but there are many more refinements to be had with the Rock Shox World Cup BoXXer.

Let’s start with the outside of the fork and work our way in. The BoXXer is available in 4 colors this year: red, white, and black plus the new super cool Keronite finish. Keronite is basically a very hard ceramic finish that can be applied to aluminum, magnesium, and titanium. The process is similar to that of a plasma coating except it’s far more advanced and precise. The process actually works at a molecular level, changing the base material to a ceramic surface, resulting in a super hard surface with enhanced base material properties. Having had a few of my projects treated with Keronite, I can say it is simply amazing.

Other external changes include re-tooled knobs to save weight and new graphics with the World Cup championship colors. The familiar etched graphics on the stanchions and pressure chart on the fork leg are nice touches and help with sag set up on the go. The BoXXer features post mounts to increases the stiffness of the brake assembly over older IS standards; many of the newer brakes being produced are post mount compatible.

Internally the BoXXer has a host of new features over last year’s 2010 model. For one thing, RockShox put the fork under a microscope to reduce friction (something of a bother from last year’s model). The engineers looked at everything from seals to bushings and re-designed the damper cartridge and the Solo air spring assembly to eliminate friction points. RockShox kept the 35mm 7000 series aluminum stanchions, which are hard anodized for long life and lower friction (stiction), the lower magnesium legs with the power bulge, and of course the high performance Maxle Lite DH 20mm axle.

The re-worked Dual Flow adjustment (high – low speed rebound) and the tuned Mission Control DH valving (high-low speed compression) really perk up this fork for 2011. Although it takes a bit of time to set everything just right, the effort really pays off in the end. The re-worked valving truly changes how the fork behaves over fast, rough terrain and absorbs the larger features that you’ll find anywhere. The internals sport a totally upgraded Solo unit (which can be retro-fitted into the 2010 model, though not the Race version), but unfortunately the new damper won’t fit – sorry. I checked simply because I have a few friends who own the 2010 WC and they were interested in upgrading after riding my 2011 version.

Installing the BoXXer WC (1-1/8″ aluminum steering tube) was pretty easy – it’s just a matter of measuring twice and cutting once. As always, read the manual and torque the bolts in place with a quality torque wrench. Remember spacing between crowns must be 156mm ±2mm. The minimum the stanchion length is exposed on the top crown is 2mm so before cutting the steering tube (if you’re going with a direct mount stem) it must extend 2mm from the top of the upper crown. Other than that business, all is good.

Dialing it in

Setting up the BoXXer WC took a good solid day of riding plus a break-in period. I found the fork needed a little time to get everything seated and felling creamy smooth. With the BoXXer it’s important to follow the RockShox tuning recommendations to get the fork set up right – that is, unless you have your own world-cup tech on speed dial. Get the air spring pressure set first (sag) by jouncing the fork a few times to equalize the pressures in the positive and negative chambers. I found the BoXXer-specific pump to be great – the large air volume this pump delivers is helpful – otherwise you might be there all day with a standard shock pump.

Once the sag is set it’s time to configure the beginning stroke rebound dampening (first 25% of travel). This really should be done on the trail and not on the streets. Find a familiar section of trail and session it. Add one or two clicks at a time to the small knob on the bottom (hold the larger knob to keep it from turning). You want the fork to return fast, but not so fast that it stings the hands or feels like it’s going to toss you off the bike. Next, set the end stroke rebound (for coming off bigger hits) where the travel range goes from 25% to 100%. Again, you’re looking to avoid getting bucked off the bike. Too much of either the high or low speed rebound and you get what’s called packing down – basically losing more and more travel with every hit.

Now, set up the low and high speed compression. Low speed compression allows you to to balance trail sensitivity and fork dive – basically changing how the fork feels. Too much compression and the fork tends to skip over some of the bumps and feels very harsh; too little and the fork dives when hitting the brakes and cornering. Once you get the low speed set, dial in the high speed setting for big drops, rock gardens at speed, etc. The goal here is to get maximum control over the wheel. You don’t want the fork to blow though the travel on the big hits so add more compression until you get a controlled compression. Too much snaps the wrists back and stings; too little and it feels like the bike bogs down and gets wallowy.

The final setting is the end stroke adjuster which changes the volume of the air chamber during the fork’s last 20% of travel. Reducing the volume will ramp up the spring rate, yielding a more progressive feel. This is one of those settings that is totally subjective, depending on the rider. If I was going from a drop to flat I would add more end stroke (for my 200lb. weight I’d add about 4 turns).

Ok, even though some of this might sound more complicated than a NASA checklist, don’t worry. The tuning guide that RockShox includes is easy to follow and understand and Rockshox encourages you to play with the settings. I ended up downloading the guide and printing out a few of the “My Favorite Setting” charts to remember what I liked best during testing. All the controls were easy to use except the bottom out dial – I recommend having a 2.5mm allen key handy and being prepared to remove the air from the air spring to adjust it. I did take the knob off and added a tiny touch of synthetic lube to the seal before replacing it to see if that would help. This gave me marginal improvement and was really the only small issue I found with this fork.

Hitting the Trail

I installed the BoXXer WC on my Banshee Legend II and it definitely stepped up the Legend’s game. Once the fork was broken in I spent a bit of time re-setting the dials and had a really good time. The lightness of the fork really made it easy to control the bike and on low speed, technical rock gardens and general gnar I felt consistent control over my front wheel.

Taping the powerful 2011 Code brakes would cause almost any bike to dive like a submarine but I found with the compression set midway at 6 clicks and the low speed at 4 clicks, the fork struck a good balance between traction and control. Even on taxing rock gardens where the suspension travel got a real workout I still maintained perfect control over the bike without having it pack down underneath me. On rock gardens there’s always the chance of a glance causing the bike to slip sideways; some forks will twist in this situation. On the BoXXer I didn’t notice any flex – the bike always tracked where I wanted it to go.

Big hits with the BoXXer were just too fun. The lighter weight allowed me to move the bike a bit more without a lot of extra body effort. The lighter weight also seemed to increase performance of the bike as well. A lighter fork reduces sprung mass to a degree, particularly if the reduction in mass is on the fork lowers.

Overall the BoXXer WC works very well and any racer should be happy with this unit with little worry about maintenance. So my last two cents? Try 0ne out for yourself,  I’m sure you will be impressed. If you have a 2010 model and don’t want to fork out the cash for a new one, get yourself the air cartridge (fits WC and Team models only) for a nice performance boost.

Ok, so how much does this wonder of modern mountain bike technology cost? Well as far as world class forks are concerned, I can say the BoXXer is right in line at $1,700 MSRP. Now if that is a bit more than you can afford, test out the Team or Race versions. These forks are a bit heavier and feature a coil spring which can be more difficult to tune but are definitely worth a look.

A big thanks to Tyler Morland from RockShox for setting sending up the BoXXer WC for a review. Another thanks to my good friend Michael Chan for taking those snowy shots. Stay tuned for a write up on a few other exciting products from Rockshox as well as SRAM. Next up: the Rockshox Vivid Air.

SRAM is coming in hard this year with some sick components and most notably is offering a 2×10 ring set-up from the top of the line down to the bottom. From XX to X7 you can now build up your bike with one less chainring! For those who are still on the fence, 3×10 is also available (though not in the XX line). Not too long ago I got my hands on both the full X0 and X9 groups and today I’m going to take you through the X9 line and give you the lowdown on this great looking group.

For 2010, unlike previous years, SRAM is going with a complete component group approach (and I do mean complete).  The X9 group covers everything you need to complete that finished look to your bike: matching graphics on the crank, rear derailleur, brakes, calipers and even hubs makes this group an eye-catcher. Available in three graphic color choices (red, white, and grey), you can be assured these will match up with nearly everything out there. The X9 can be used for the racer but is really meant for the experienced rider. Think of this group as your put on anything, go anywhere type gear. It’s certainly strong and reliable enough for even the most demanding riders.

Tons of Options

The X9 group is full of options which makes it super versatile for mountain biking applications. Beside the 2×10 and 3×10 options on the crank, you can also select gearing with 26-39, 28-42 (more race-oriented), or 22-33-44 teeth. Bottom bracket compatibility is not a problem either with press fit 30 and traditional threaded bottom brackets (GXP) options.

Depending on your gear choice up front you have three derailleur options. Short cage works best for those who plan on using only one ring up front and are targeting a more gravity-oriented build. The medium cage is perfect for 2×10 with either the 11-32 (race-oriented) or 12-16 (everyone else) cassette. The long cage is for those running the full 3×10 set up. With the rear derailleur you’re also getting some great tech and bling there. The carbon outer cage and alloy inner cage make this derailleur lightweight and strong. The sealed cartridge bearing in the upper pulley will ensure longer life and less maintenance.

For the front derailleur there’s a dizzying array of clamping styles available. SRAM offers both high and low clamp options as well as high and low clamp direct mounts (and don’t forget top or bottom pull!). Did I also mention the 2×10 and 3×10 derailleurs are specific as well? Compared to the X9 of a few years back, this derailleur is a big improvement with a tighter, more compact design and an intelligently placed though bolt that won’t interfere with some DW or VPP lower links.

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Brand new shifting pods styled after the XX units make for a more compact, lightweight unit (232 grams in 2×10 configuration). With a sleek design and two color choices (red or white/grey) these match the other components nicely. Speaking of matching, you can also opt for the matchmaker option to save even more weight and space on your bar. I personally like the rubberized cover window that allows you to change the cable without removing the shifter and cap that the 9spd version has. Both crisp and positive up and down shifting is what you get here.

The 2×10 Revolution

SRAM has spent a ton of time and money perfecting the 2×10 and the effort has definitely paid off. The latest model chain rings are made from thicker blanks of high strength 7075 series aluminum and to add even more strength, the bolt circle has been enlarged on the outer ring, making it stiffer and preventing flex. Along with that, the new X-Glide technology improves shifting dramatically by offering 4 up-shift and 4 down-shift points and 14 of what they call “sweet spots.” Basically what you end up with is all around improved performance over previous models (see graphic below).

Avid Elixir CR Brakes

Rounding out my X9 group is the matching Avid Elixir CR brakes.  The new Elixir brakes feature a carbon lever as well as contact and reach adjustments. Coming in at 375 grams (160mm rotor) these brakes work well on anything from an XC bike to a FR rig. With four G3 rotor diameter choices (203mm, 185mm, 160mm,  140mm* rear only) you can decide how much stopping power you really need. The 850mm front hose and 1600mm rear hose are long enough for any bike out there (except tandems). Further internal refinements in the Taperbore technology and internal reservoir promise more control, feedback, and power when braking compared to older style straight bore model brakes.

I opted to go with 185/160mm rotors on my new 5.5″ trail bike (the Opus Clutch). The Elixir CR brakes also feature an integrated reservoir which makes for a smaller package than the familiar Juicy line of brakes. Other technologies that have been incorporated into the the Elixir CR brakes is the contact point adjustment (allows for a short or long stroke on the lever) and the power reserve geometry (which places the pivot closer to the bar) for a more natural, ergonomic feel to the lever pull. On the caliper end of things your get DOT 5.1 fluid and top loading pads (I love that feature) which have sintered material (great for longer life) and metal backing plates.

Performance on the Trail

How did the X9 hold up and perform on the trail?  The very first word that came to my mind was smoooooth – it’s hard to believe that the x9 is third from top-of-the-line at SRAM. The X9 shifts fast, much faster than what I was used to with my older 2010 X9 model derailleur and shifters. I noticed that the same solid shifting performance on the rear now extended to the front as well – I guess all that design work paid off! The rear shifting works great as well, both up-shifting and down-shifting. Having used other crank models from SRAM, the new  X9 2×10 cranks are far superior. I noticed right away the increased stiffness and less ring warpage when I really got on the pedals.

The larger 12-36 cassette looks odd at first but in combination with the 26-39 that I have up front I noticed that it’s optimized for my style of riding. Down shifts are nearly instant and I didn’t find myself making as many recovery shifts to get back into cadence. Since I’m running 26″ wheels on a bike that comes in at 27lbs I found I didn’t need that ultra low 1.3m / revolution that you can get with a 3×10 setup. The 1.5m / revolution is perfect for my fitness level (a 29″er may be a bit harder to push).

At this time of year most of my riding has been in cold weather at night with my regular group of hardcore riders at my favorite spots. The DVP offers a good technical challenge with quick climbs, switchbacks, skinnies, bridges and about 12 miles of distance per lap, perfect for testing XC – AM bikes. Hitting the climbs with my Opus and dropping into the 26T front chainring, I’m happy to sit and spin with no real problems. Even when I’m on the steep climbs, the cranks stay steady and stiff without much flexing at all. I prefer the 26 tooth gearing here rather than that of a 22 tooth granny because I found I had a more control over my bike without the feeling of lifting the front wheel and losing momentum. The difference in gearing distance is a real improvement for my personal riding style.

I have to say I was surprised and equally impressed at the SRAM brake improvements as well.  The new Elixirs seems to offer better control in terms of braking force modulation. To me, previous models had more of an on/off feel to them. Overall braking force has also improved – I noticed that the sintered pads and the new G3 rotors work well at bringing the bike to a fast stop. With a host of features like the tool-free contact and reach adjustment, these brakes will fit just about every hand. I found the adjustments worked well for me, however the contact point barrel was a bit hard to move. Another nice thing you will also notice is the lack of noise – braking is now a silent affair.

If you have a chance, get yourself on a bike with the SRAM X9 2×10 and feel the difference for yourself. Have fun with it and really see what good quality at a reasonable price can get you. The complete X9 group will run about $1,100 (depending on options), and about $420 less without the brakes – a great value for those looking to build up a new rig for the new year!

Thanks to the folks at SRAM for sending down the X9 group for product review.

Ohhh yeah! Finally, after what seemed like ages of waiting, my Banshee Legend II is ready to ride – and this past weekend I got to break it in. After the final parts arrived on Wednesday while I was work, I spent the evening getting everything cut, measured, installed, and torqued in place (more on that in a few).

A project bike like the Banshee Legend II is not something you can slap together and hope for the best. It’s important to look at what you’re going to be doing with a bike like this before you even spec the first part. Flying over rock gardens, drops, step ups, and almost anything else, you gotta make sure the bike (and you!) survive.

Just after arriving home from Interbike back in September, I was stoked to unbox the Banshee Legend II frame. At that point I already had some of the major components handy so I got most of the bike assembled. I installed a Cane Creek XXc headset and moved my Dorado fork over to the new rig. With a frame that’s worth a lot of $$, you may want to get a pro to do this part of the build, or at least invest in a headset press. I added an Answer DH direct-mount stem and my favorite handlebars, the Answer 780 DH, which pretty much completed the front end.

For stopping power I installed a set of Formula ONE brakes and the like-new Havoc DH wheel set I had on hand from last year (gotta hand it to Easton for building such a great set of wheels).

Then, a few weeks back a nice box of components arrived at my doorstep from SRAM with X.O shifting and the new Descendant crank (same one Peaty rides with). Now some may wonder why I decided to put a 10-speed drivetrain on a DH bike (many riders may argue a 9 or even 6 speed cassette is good enough). Three reasons: I’m not interested in butchering a cassette just to get a six-speed drivetrain, 10-speed spacing is tighter so shifting speed increases, and, perhaps most importantly, I’m no pro so I need a few extra gears when I actually have to pedal on the flats.

After another long night of installation and getting all the gears perfect and shifting amazingly on the stand, I had to wait on a rear shock and possibly a matching front fork. Well just last week a rather large box arrived, once again from SRAM. I got everything I needed to finish up the Legend plus two other bikes I’m building for next season (get ready for some interesting reviews and great products). This delivery added the new Vivid Air RC2, the BoXXer WC, and the new Code brakes. So yup, I had work to do. Off with the Dorado and on with the BoXXer as well as installing the Vivid and the new Codes. Looking at the bike I realized that this is turning out to be an almost all-SRAM DH bike.

Finishing off the bike with pedals, grips, saddle, and seatpost, I was still a few hours away from completion. Getting the cable and hose lengths just right is important and shouldn’t be rushed. After all, perfection is in the details so I ended up using Gore cables (love those so much!) for the rear derailleur to make sure the shifting is as smooth as possible. In fact these cables from Gore are a bit different from previous versions; unfortunately I can’t tell you how yet (they’re still top-secret). Anyhow, I also spent some time bleeding the Codes after I shortened the hoses; now I was ready for testing!

This weekend I took the Legend II to a local area where I could do some DH pre-testing (rock gardens, step downs, jumps, gaps and table tops abound). After a few runs I realized many of the components need a break-in period before they’re operating at full performance. Needless to say I still had a blast and I can’t wait to get more serious test rides in on my project bike.

I am very greatful to everyone who helped make this bike happen. Folks like Tyler Morland (Avid, Rockshox) Morgan Meredith (SRAM), Jay MacNeil (Banshee), Lois Mabon (Gore), Richard Travis (Manitou), Tom Porter (Answer), Christoph Vogl (Formula), Toby Henderson from THE, and Mark Reidy who reps Easton.

Stay tuned for more reviews on these great products and hopefully some more great AM-DH reviews on other items not yet installed!

Cheers

Hooking up with Morgan and Tyler from SRAM at Interbike, trek7k and I had a chance to go over the 2011 SRAM MTB product line. We got an up close look at the XX, X0, and X9 groups as well as all the other great mountain bike components. Overall I was really impressed with the SRAM booth – it had to be the biggest at Interbike. Everything was displayed in cool-looking cases like we were in a jewelery store display plus they had iPads and flat screen TVs up front!

We started off with a quick tour of the XX product line. The XX is the only SRAM group that is only offered in a 2×10 configuration (no 3×10 option available). Even though people may think the XX line is for XC racers only, don’t be surprised to see see this group on almost any style of bike, from DH to XC. The real star here is the carbon composite/aluminum cranks that weigh a scant 694 grams (with the BB30 option)

In my bike photo above you can see the rear derailleur and if you look closely you can almost see through the feather-light rear cassette (takes 9 hours to make one of these on a CNC machine). These cassettes weigh in at just 208 grams (11-36t), light enough for even the pickiest weight weenie. Heck, even the rear derailleur weighs less than 181 grams.

SRAM is always looking to take things to the next level so it comes as no surprise that the all new XX World Cup brake went on a diet and weighs a supermodel-thin 279 grams. SRAM also dropped the contact adjustment and with an obsidian black finish, these brakes look purdy.

The 2011 XO line is full of options for you and your bikes, including colors (red, black, gold and blue). You also have a choice with the XO to run 2×10 or 3×10 with multiple gear ratios available. With a new chassis in the rear derailleur you’re also looking at weight savings (about 200 grams depending on cage length) and greater strength. A new front derailleur is available with four clamping options to fit virtually any frame. To complete the group, Avid has a set of matching XO brakes that are Matchmaker X compatible plus a slightly less expensive cassette arrangement made from stamped steel instead of solid machined metal.

I was particularly interested in the X9 group as it offers the go-to components that most people will rock on their rides. This year the X9 group is all about options, tons of options. Just like the X0, the X9 can be configured as a 2×10 or 3×10 system. SRAM also offers Avid Elixir CR brakes and X9 hub options including new 142mm widths for your XC/AM rig.

As with the X0 line, you can choose from multiple colors (red, white, and gray make for many good color combos). SRAM ensures that the entire line-up is über compatible, including all the stems, bars , and grips.

The new CODE brake also caught my eye at Interbike. Compared to last year’s version the new CODE is more compact and, in my opinion, a better solution. You still get a very stout lever fully supported on bearings plus taper bore technology and the same integrated reservoir as the other Elixir series brakes. At 410 grams there are some weight savings as well.

So grab yourself a coffee or another beverage and check out all the 2011 component choices at Rockshox, Truvativ, and Avid. You can also keep up with the latest right here on the blog with upcoming reviews of the X0 group and other hot gear from SRAM coming soon.

At this point in the MTB season you’ve been out dozens of times and may be experiencing “ghost shifting” or your shifting just isn’t what it used to be following a nasty crash. Now is a good time to check your gears.

Before we get started there are a few derailleur parts I’d like to illustrate and explain.

Limit Screws

There are three limit screws (shown above): the B-screw (B-tension adjustment) found on both Shimano and SRAM rear derailleurs, the H-screw (high gear limit stop), and the L-screw (low gear limit stop).

B-tension Adjustment

The B-screw controls the derailleur body’s angle in relation to the sprocket-set. Shift to the largest sprocket and check the distance between the guide pulley and the large sprocket. Adjust the B-screw until the pulley rubs the large sprocket, and then tighten the screw until it barely clears and the chain does not bind.

High Gear Limit Stop

The H-limit screw high gear limit stop prevents the guide pulley from shifting any further past the highest gear and into the axle. In order to adjust it properly there must be zero tension on the lower inner cable. If you feel tension, loosen the cable adjuster until there is none. Now check from behind to see how the chain is riding on the smallest sprocket. If it looks like it wants ride off into the axle, tighten the H-screw clockwise until it lines up. If it looks like it is rubbing on the next gear, loosen the screw until the chain is nicely centered on the sprocket. Now re-adjust the cable tension until the derailleur shifts smoothly down to the next gear.

Low Gear Limit Stop

The L-limit screw prevents the guide pulley from shifting any further past the lowest gear and into the wheel spokes. Shift down to the lowest gear, step behind the bike, and check how the chain rides on the sprocket. If it looks like it wants to ride into the spokes, tighten the L-screw clockwise until it is centered on the sprocket. If it looks like it wants to shift down, loosen the screw until it lines up. As an extra precaution you can use your thumb to gently push the derailleur body and make sure the chain will not run into the spokes, as this could obviously have a nasty effect on both you and your bike.

Now that we have the limit screws figured out, let’s start adjusting your gears. This article assumes you’re using a conventional derailleur where the default, no-tension state places the chain in high gear (smallest cog in the back).

NOTE: Stop here and read this first. Check your chain to make sure it isn’t bent. Look down the chainline as you back pedal and look for twisting. If anything looks wonky, replace the chain first.

NOTE 2: Check the cassette and chain rings to make sure the teeth are straight and none are missing or bent. Both these items will make smooth shifting impossible.

Replacing Cables and Housing

Starting from the top, shift all the way into high gear. From here, if you want to replace the cable (’tis the season), you would release the bolt that holds the cable at the rear derailleur and remove the old cable. After opening up your shifter pod, (SRAM X.0, x-9, x-7) it’s just a matter of loosening up the single screw on the pod, pulling the cable out, and inserting a new cable (replace cap). For Shimano shifters there is a plastic cover to remove (near the thumb shifter); pull out the old cable and insert the new one (replace plug).

Check out your cable housing and remove the housing caps to get a better look. If the ends look frayed it may be time to replace the cable housing as well. If you do decide to change the housing, use the existing pieces to match the lengths. Cutting shifter cable housing requires a proper cutter (not a side cutter as it squishes the housing and increases drag on the cable); try the Park CN-10 cutter. Using a proper cutter also ensures a nice clean, straight cut essential for proper shifting. Once the housing is all cut and installed with cable ends, feed the shifting cable through and down to your derailleur. Do not attach the cable at this point.

Alignment and Tensioning

Check out the alignment of your derailleur in two spatial planes. From behind the bike, first check to see if your derailleur hanger is straight. Next, look at the two jockey pulleys and the cassette body to make sure they all line up – there shouldn’t be an angle between them. If there is and it’s small, you can try to bend it back by hand. Looking top down at the derailleur, check out the pulley positions again, this time relative to the cassette body. They should be straight from this angle as well; if not, you may be able to tweak the derailleur hanger to get them in line.

After all the limits are set, let’s get the chain in place and install the shifting cable. Both Shimano and SRAM derailleurs have a small detent with mounting bolt where the cable goes. Before you tighten down the cable, double check that everything is routed properly and you have turned the adjuster screw all the way in and then out two turns (more on this later). Pull the cable and tighten it in. Turn the pedals and pay attention to the rear cassette as you go and shift up one gear. If the derailleur hesitates then you need to turn out the adjuster screw on the shifter pod (half turns) until it shifts. Shift down and back up again checking to see you get a clean shift. If you’re satisfied, try shifting up again; if the shift is jumping almost two gears at a time, you went to far. Check to see (viewed from behind) that in any given gear, everything is in line as you shift. The chain line on each gear should be dead on.

Once you have the derailleur shifting smoothly on the stand, get out there and test it out! Adjusting a rear derailleur takes patience but in the end it’s a great skill for any mountain biker to have.

There’s a lot of buzz around the SRAM XX component group and this afternoon I got a brief opportunity to see how the rich live. Clearly it’s tough to evaluate an entire component group at once but I will say every piece of the XX package is dialed in, buttery smooth, and stunningly beautiful.

The SRAM XX drivetrain, from shifter to derailleur to cassette and crank felt ultra-precise. Of course to me the real test of a derailleur is to see how long I can go without making adjustments but I have a feeling the XX will do just fine no matter what is thrown at it.

Some riders may question the logic of going with a 2-by-10 set up and admittedly it’s not for everyone. During my limited test ride I found the range of gears more than adequate but your mileage may vary.

SRAM recently created a channel on YouTube with how-to videos showcasing SRAM, RockShox, Avid, and Truvativ service and installation. So far the most popular SRAM channel videos cover how to bleed Avid brakes, how to rebuild a RockShox Monarch shock, and how to change the SRAM X0/X9 chain. Most of the newer videos cover mountain bike components but there are a few road component videos in there as well.

There’s nothing like having an expert mountain bike mechanic walk you through an install for the first time and these videos are pretty much the next best thing. Now if SRAM could just come out with a robot to do the actual repairs to my bike