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Can anyone recommend a good new disc wheel set? I’m riding a Cannondale F600 team sobe and it has Mavic 117 wheels. They seem to have held up well and really, after a re-tensioning and truing they will probably be fine. However, I’ve noticed the rear wheel has been making a lot of noise from the hub. I found that the hub was loose (wheel wiggled back and forth on hub) so I snugged it up a tad so that it still spun freely but with no wiggle. Since then I’ve done a couple gravel road rides and I’m noticing a lot of noise from that hub. Any ideas on what I should do? Can you tear the hub down and replace things or clean it? Never done anything with hubs before, but not scared to try. Just don’t want to cause more harm then help.
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I would take it apart and look at everything,your not gonna mess anything up anymore than it already is,matter of fact your just making it worse by NOT taking it apart and looking at it.Look at your bearings and races,and pawl body.I took one of my stock pawl bodys apart last summer and the thing was cracked in two peices so when the cassette came off everything went everywhere,bearings and peices all over the bench,haahahaha.
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Not sure what type bearings that your specific set of hubs has in it but it’s probably either "cup and cone" or "cartridge style" bearings.
Some of the cartridges are sealed and can’t really be taken apart and repacked with bearing lube. If sealed cartridge, just get a new cartridge bearing set and put them in. Some of the cartridge style can be popped open with a razor blade and you can simple clean the old lube out with a rag. Like Steve said, check all your parts for wear when you are cleaning them. Grit can get inside the lube and causes the bearings and races to wear out.
Cup and cone will require a few cone wrenches to open and adjust them properly but it’s the same deal as above when cleaning and repacking them with lube. Lots of cup and cone hubs have a "dust seal" around the outside to keep dirt out but that can usually be [i:2vm5y8eb]carefully[/i:2vm5y8eb] pulled out with needle nose pliers.
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IF you decide to take it appart you need to visit your local LBS and purchase the special freebody grease from Shimano that will make sure that when its together again it keeps everything running smoothly
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After about 2 hours of wrench time this weekend I was able to get this figured out.
I tore the hub apart and replaced the ball bearings and cleaned/relubed the whole works. Readjusted the cone and put it back together. During this process I also noticed that the spoke tension was very low around the whole wheel. Threw it on the truing stand and about 45 minutes later had retensioned and trued the wheel.
Well, to justify all this, I rode not quite 14 miles yesterday and the difference from before is night and day. Between the retensioned wheel and the new "hub guts" it’s running nice and quiet and feels like a new ride.
Thanks all for the encouragement!!! It wasn’t near as bad as I was guessing.
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