A good bike work stand makes cleaning, maintaining, and repairing your bike exponentially easier. Commercial models start at about $150 and a really good one can be as much as $275. But what if you could build a decent stand for a fraction of that? I decided to see if it could be done, and I am pleased to report that I now have a functioning work stand that cost me $60 in materials and 2 hours to build.

Here is everything you will need to do the same.


Electric or cordless drill
Drill bits: 1/4″ 3/16″ 1/8″ and a 7/8″ spade bit
Hand saw or Skil saw
7/16″ wrench and 7/16″ socket with ratchet (or nut driver)
Phillips screwdriver
Tape measure
Sharpie pen
Safety glasses


One 3/4″ Pony pipe clamp
One 3/4″ x 18″: pipe (threaded ends)
One 3/4″ x 60″ pipe (threaded ends)
One 3/4″ 90elbow
One 3/4″ floor mount flange
One 24″ x 24″ x 3/4″ plywood square
Four 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ hex bolts
Four 1/4″ hex nuts
Four 1/4″ lock washers
Eight 1/4″ flat washers
Four #10 by 3/4″ sheet metal or wood screws (flat head)
Two wooden blocks, approximately 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ thick (cut from a 2×4)



Two pieces of scrap foam or other padding material
Gorilla tape (1″ wide)
One refreshing beverage per hour of labor

Assembly Instructions

Step 1 – Position the flange near a corner of the plywood square, one inch from each edge. With a pencil, mark the four holes.

Step 2 – With the 1/4″ bit, drill two of the holes for the flange. Temporarily insert two of the bolts and the flange. This will allow you to accurately drill the other two holes.

Step 3 – Assemble the pipes and fittings. Join the short and long pipes with the elbow and attach the flange to the other end of the long pipe. Get them as tight as possible by hand.

Step 4 – Use the 7/8″ spade bit to countersink the underside of the holes you drilled in step 2. The countersink depth will need to be about 1/4″ and you can use the Sharpie to mark the depth right on the bit. When you have drilled all four, check them with a bolt and flat washer. If the bolt head protrudes at all, drill it a little deeper.

Step 5 – Install the four 1/4″ bolts with four of the flat washers up through the countersunk side of the holes. Carefully place the base on the floor so that the bolts don’t fall out and install the pipe assembly onto the top, over the protruding bolts. Install the hex nuts finger-tight and then use the leverage of the cross pipe and the anchor of the bolts to tighten the elbow and flange joints. Remove the hex nuts and reposition the pipe assembly as needed in order to have the cross pipe pointing at the opposite corner of the plywood. When it is tight and straight, install the remaining four flat washers, the four lock washers, and then the four hex nuts on the protruding bolts and over the flange. Use the wrench and socket to tighten them.

Step 6 – Install the Pony clamp according to the instructions on the package. The clutch piece slides on first and then the crank piece screws onto the threaded end of the pipe. There is a spring that can thread onto the pipe, but it isn’t necessary. Tighten it as much as you can, ending with the clamp jaws on the right side of the cross pipe when facing it head on. The cross pipe will probably tighten a little more during this step.

Step 7 – Adjust the clutch half of the clamp as needed so that the full reach of the clamp can be utilized. When it is adjusted properly, place the wooden blocks into the clamp jaws and tighten the clamp just enough to prevent them from falling out. Thenuse the 3/16″ bit to drill two holes through each half of the clamp and slightly into the block. Once through the metal, use the 1/8″ bit to drill a little deeper as a pilot hole for the #10 screws. Screw in all four of the #10 screws to hold the wooden blocks in place.

Step 8 – Trim the padding to roughly cover the face of each block and secureit with the Gorilla tape.

Step 9 – Clamp your bike in place by the seatpost and consume the remainder of your beverage while admiring your handiwork.


The stand will work okay as it is, but it’s not a bad idea to cut a vertical v-notch or circular impression into the face of each of the wooden blocks. This will help keep the seatpost from tilting while also not needing the clamp as tight. A v-notch can be cut with a miter saw, or a hole saw can be used to make a seatpost-sized vertical hole. Either way, you should still cover it with padding and Gorilla tape as described above.

Cut the bottom from a sturdy plastic jug and use a hose clamp to attach it to the vertical pipe for use as a small parts tray.


Everything I needed for this project was available at my local Home Depot for $59.85 with tax. I already had the foam, Gorilla tape and some wooden blocks, so figure a few dollars more if you need to purchase those. My materials list, with Home Depot stock numbers, is available here.

My bike weighs 27 lbs and it sits securely on the stand,but if I was planning to use it with a heavier bike, I would go with a 1″ vertical pipe and a 1″ to 3/4″ reducer elbow.

I used galvanized pipes and fittings, but black steel pipe will work just as well and is usually a few bucks cheaper.

I am very pleased with the outcome of my $60 investment and 2 hours of work. The stand is solid, the right height for working, and it’s light enough to move around easily. The one glaring disadvantage when compared to a commercial work stand like those from Park Tools is that you can’t rotate the bike around the axis of the support arm, but in light of the $200 I saved, I can live with that.

So get over to your local builders supply store, put your new stand together, and stop flipping your bike upside down on the ground to work on it!

# Comments

  • dgaddis

    By far one of the nicest DIY repair stands I’ve seen, nice job!

  • ltud

    Not bad for half the price of a Park Tool PCS-9.

    I designed a wall mounted stand for my friend that is similar in function to the Park Tool PRS-4W-1 ($264). The materials list is three pieces of metal, an old seatpost, four mounting screws and one pin. His father built it for him with scraps from his workplace so it cost him nothing ($0).

    It only requires two simple welds, so even if you can’t weld, you should be able to find someone to do it for you for next to nothing.

    My design rotates too, that’s what the pin is for. Rather than using one horizontal tube, I used two. They are nested with a series of holes in each tube. By varying the placement and selection of these holes my friend can adjust the extension of the arm and the angle of the bike. The same thing can be accomplished with a set screw for greater adjustabilty, but it slightly increases the amount of effort involved in the build.

    I’d really like to have my own, but I already had been given a Park Tool stand and I can only use one at a time . . .

    If anyone wants to build their own, let me know and I’ll send you some details.

  • fleetwood

    Very cool. I’ve been looking at getting a bike stand. Maybe I’ll give this a shot.

    One question: is it top heavy at all with the bike on it?

  • maddslacker

    @Fleetwood Due to the length of the arm (18″) and the diagonal length of the base (34″) and the pipe clamp being set in a few inches from the end of the arm, the weight of the bike is almost exactly centered over the plywood base.

    That being said, as I mentioned, if I did it again I would probably use 1″ pipe for the vertical, with the corresponding flange and elbow. I would also maybe go with sturdier plywood, as on mine the corner where the vertical pipe attached flexes up a tiny bit. I was trying to not have to buy a full sheet of plywood, cut it, and then have leftovers.

    On my completely flat garage or basement floor it works fine, and these are really just nit-picky observations.

  • bikenut1

    great job!! i always wondered how hard it would be to do one. pretty darn easy with instructions like that. defiantly like the price differance. and i am with you on the rotating part.

  • kcrushz

    … now if someone can post a “How to build a 2-bike indoor stand” …

  • maddslacker

    That’s easy:
    Use a 4′ by 4′ base and mount the 1″ x 60″ vertical pipe in the middle.
    On top, instead of the elbow, attach a t-connector and two cross arms with two pipe clamps.

  • UniballLenny

    Yes! This will be built as soon as I get home! Thanks so much! Love all the detailed instructions. Keep ’em coming!

  • jasonrhoads

    I have a nice bike stand from Northern Tool Supply (Item# 193023). It’s not something they advertise in store, but they will ship to store for free and it arrives in a week. It’s 49.99 +tax. I like it a lot and work on my bike (specialized hard rock disc) along with my family bikes and neighborhood bikes for the kids. I just can’t get my wife’s ‘other’ bike an ’80’s model Huffy cruiser.

  • jasonrhoads

    So far so good. There are some plastic bits to it so i’m careful getting it loaded.

  • barrygxnz

    Excellent work!
    My first attempt used a 1/2″x24″ pipe and a 3/4″x1/2″ 90, (as HD didn’t have a 3/4″ x 18″ piece of pipe), and a 1/2″ pipe clamp. That proved to be a fail, as the clamp didn’t have enough meat on it to hold the blocks parallel when clamped to the seatpost.
    Bought a 3/4″ clamp and a 3/4″x12″ nipple, (still no 18″) and all good now.

  • nygbrad

    Great idea. I took it and made a work stand for my brothers truck. Mounted a steel plate behind the access panel and used mostly the same materials you did.

    Rack 1

    Rack 2

  • VTR996

    I made one very much like this awhile back; I used 1″ pipe, and the long pipe is only 36″, because I use it clamped in my vise. The vise can rotate both vertically and on the horizontal plane. After I drilled and shaped the wooden blocks, I used an old inner tube for padding.It still works pretty good.

  • Jarrett.morgan

    These are some great tips. I have needed a stand for awhile now and this will make so much easier.

  • bdmiller001

    Just finished building it and it works great, ran maintenance and cleaned the chain. Thanks for the great idea.

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