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So, I have put a total of about 70 miles on my new "08 Cannondale F7 and today my rear derailleur broke. It is a SRAM SX4, and I haven’t heard the best reviews about them, so I guess I should have seen it coming. But seriously, the bottom gear "encasement/guard" got caught on one of my spokes…and pretty much snapped it in half…..
Anyways. I was just wondering what is a nice, tough, good rear derailleur out there for a good price under $100, preferably under $60. I’m either considering SRAM or Shimano. Both I’ve heard make some nice rear derailleurs (forgetting about my SX4….), like the XTR series. But something a little cheaper…
Thanks a ton!
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I ride XT shadows from Shimano and they are great…Should be able to find them near your price range
I don’t know what the SRAM X-9’s run but a friend has those and like s them -
Well seeing that you have Sram which uses a 1:1 actuation ratio perhaps a X-7 would be a good upgrade that won’t cost you an arm and a leg..However If you check your owners manual and warranty it should be covered. Such as long as it was not a fault of your own…Example it came that way from the shop that you purchased it from….The stop could not have been adjusted correctly.. Now if you dropped the bike on the side of the derailleur and it bent inwards to the spokes then its your bill…
Either way you could purchase a X-7 for less than what your limit is and that is all you need to change. the second you get into shimano you have to change the shifter as well…They use a 2:1 ratio
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The SRAM X-7 and X-9 derailleurs are both excellent choices. Personally I would run with the X-9. Here are a couple things to remember when selecting a rear derailleur.
"slap8up" wroteLong-cage derailleurs have more distance between the pulleys than medium-cage and short cage deraileurs, allowing them to take up more chain slack. If you only have one or two chainrings, you can probably use the medium-cage, but if you have three chainrings and the usual wide-range cassette, then long-cage will be more suitable. The longer cage is slightly heavier and rides a little closer to the ground, reducing obstacle clearance a little bit. RapidRise derailleurs are sprung so that they "home" on (return to) the largest cog on the cassette, not the smallest. I think the theory behind RapidRise was that you could force-feed upshifts to smaller cogs instead of relying on your derailleur’s parallelogram spring to upshift when you let out a click’s worth of cable at the shift lever. RapidRise or non-RapidRise is your personal preference, just make sure you have shifters compatible with a rapid rise derailleur (STI style). Furthermore, the manufacturer publishes a "Total Capacity" for a derailleur in the specs which can be found in the owners manual or most likely, via the internet . The capacity is calculated by subtracting the smallest chain ring from the largest plus the difference between the smallest cog on the cassette from the largest. On a standard 22/32/44T crankset with an 11/34T cassette The calculation is as follows:
(44-22) + (34-11) = 45
So with this combination you require a 45T capacity derailleur. Most medium cage derailleurs have 33T capacity. If you rings and cassette work out to more than 33 you need a long cage. Hope this helps you out somewhat 😄 .
here are a couple links to jensonusa for derailleurs as well. Hopefully this info will do you some justice 😃
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Cool! thats just the advice i needed.
actually it was not my fault. i have never set the bike down on the derailleur. the trail i was riding today had a lot of loose twigs and small branches which might have hit the derailleur and caused it to get pushed over…. 😠
nothing i can do now tho.
thanks for the tips, i’ll be looking into Sram’s x-7 and x-9!
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Hey it happens all the time, this weekend i broke the hanger off my bike and that was the rear wheel sucked in a small branch and got caught and tore the hanger right off…I carry a spare hanger all the time for that exact reason.
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