At Interbike this year we saw a number of mountain bike brake refinements along with a few interesting new developments from companies like Avid and Formula. Here’s what we found.

SRAM / Avid

One of the biggest deals at the show was Avid. The company is revamping their rotors this year and changing them to even sizes in line with the industry which is a big step for them. The new rotors are the HS1 (all stainless) and the higher-end HSX (two piece with aluminum center) in 140, 160, 180, and 200mm sizes. The new hexagonal-shaped rotor has been cross-drilled instead of having the rotor milled out. The smaller, more numerous holes will run smoother with less “growl” as the pads do their job bringing your bike to a stop.

The entire line of Avid brakes that feature taper bore (Elixir, XO, and XX) have been tweaked internally with a revised bladder to reduce air permeability. The new design adds an air trap system to prevent air from entering the reservoir and an O-ring just in front of the air trap to further improve the feel of the brake and maintain consistency. The new Elixir 9 also gets an improved contact point adjuster for 2012. Along with that, the World Cup brakes lose the tri-align system in favor of weight savings, bringing them down to 277 grams (weight includes lever, caliper, and 160mm rotor and hardware).

Shimano

Shimano had a see-through XT brake set on display with windows into the caliper and lever assembly (pics below). The complex lever design fits great for one finger operation and the adjustment on the lever works well at setting reach as well. The simple linear piston and return spring with its relatively large volume should perform nicely. However, even in this cutaway you can see how air could be trapped in the piston area of the master cylinder. Just be sure to have the reservoir pointing up and full when bleeding the system out and it shouldn’t be a big deal.

The brake caliper itself looks great with a simple, elegant design that makes it easy to remove top-loaded pads. But having the bleed port below the hose means you are doing a caliper-to-lever bleed only. Not a bad thing but with visuals like this you can get a better idea of what you’re dealing with. Now if only these would work in the real world I would be sold!

Formula

Formula has refined their mountain bike brake line-up as well. The new oval piston DH monster, the Formula RO, has a totally redesigned lever and master cylinder with more volume than the current THE ONE. Along with a redesign, the unit is also more robust. Stroke reach adjustments are built into the lever and the RO can also be had with optional FCS (contact point adjustment).

The top-load design makes for easy removal and servicing of the pads and pistons. The calipers on the RO are forged one-piece designs to keep weight to a minimum. The bleed port is located in the middle of the caliper making it easy to flip flop the calipers if you decide to run “Moto” style.

At about 361 grams per wheel, these are heavier than THE ONE brakes but heavier duty as well (not that there was anything wrong with THE ONE). The robust design as shown above and the redesigned levers scream DH.

THE ONE with reach adjust on the lever.

And when I saw the latest idea from Formula I was screaming like a little girl at a Justin Bieber concert. Formula is working on a new hydraulic brake hose quick release fitting. Coming from a race background and using zero loss quick releases before I was super stoked! Talk about making some jobs easy. The best part of the quick release is that the hose end is just slightly larger than the hose itself, opening up a bunch of possibilities for routing.

Ashima

Ashima Brakes has been coming up with inventive ways of making brake rotors run cooler and lighter. Wayne Moore let me in on some ideas that have been floating around, some of them a bit crazier than others but you never know.

The photo above shows a test concept that uses a simple fan that would pump air through the rotor to cool things off a bit. Simple, somewhat effective, and lightweight. Usually nothing gets in that space anyhow. Another idea Ashima is working on is a three spoke aluminum rotor core with carbon reinforcement (for added stiffness) and steel braking surfaces for compatibility. Of course this is still under development but it should make for a lightweight rotor.

Due to time constraints we didn’t get a chance to hit everyone else but believe me, Hope, Magura, Funn and others were also showing off their goods as well.

More to come…

SRAM has been busy over the last year or two integrating and simplifying product lines across their brands (SRAM, Avid, RockShox and TruVativ) to offer true component group selections for mountain bikes. SRAM helped me set my bike up with the X0 component group this past fall which includes the freshly-designated XO hydraulic disc brakes.

Tech and materials

For those who are familiar with the Avid brake line, the XO brakes essentially take up where the Elixir CR brakes leave off (though the Elixir CRs are still considered the X9 brakeset). Based on the specs available online there isn’t much difference between the X0 brakes and Elixir CRs – except for the fact that the X0s weigh 40 grams less! The X0 brakes come equipped with slightly different brake pads (organic vs. sintered) and a more streamlined master cylinder.

The Avid X0 brakes tip-toe onto the scale at 333 grams which is lighter than most hydraulic disc brakes out there (though somehow the XX version is nearly 50 grams lighter than that!). SRAM was able to get the weight down thanks to carbon levers and a sleek in-line master cylinder and reservoir design that’s not only lightweight, it also takes up very little space on your bars. The lever body and caliper feature durable aluminum bodies.

Installing the X0 brakes is a cinch and aligning the caliper and rotor is literally a two step affair: 1. squeeze the brake lever and 2. tighten the bolts. That’s it. I’m not mechanically inclined myself but I installed these brakes in about 30 minutes and had them spinning rub-free on the first attempt. I found the standard hose length to be more than adequate; in fact, even on my large 29er I ended up with a bit too much hose up front (I haven’t found the time to trim the hoses to length yet).

The brake pads on the X0 brakes are top-loading which means you don’t have to remove the wheel to replace the pads. This might seem like a minor detail but it could come in handy during a race like last year’s Fools Gold 100 where competitors burned through multiple sets of brake pads due to gritty and wet conditions. And finding replacement pads at your local bike shop shouldn’t be an issue since the pads are fairly standardized across the SRAM/Avid line (unlike other brakes we’ve used).

On the trail

Let me start this by saying: these are the best hydraulic disc brakes I’ve tested. The first time I used the X0 brakes on the trail it was like a revelation – this is how mountain bike brakes should work. The levers feel completely comfortable and natural and easily lend themselves to single finger pulls (something I’m finally getting used to). It turns out SRAM has put a lot of thought into the placement of the lever pivot (closer to the bar) to align more closely with the arc your finger makes as you pull the lever in.

I also really like the positive clicking sound and feel whenever I release the lever. I’m not sure if there’s a real performance reason for this (like letting you know the brake is fully disengaged) but it feels solid and satisfying on the trail. Contact point adjustment is built into the master cylinder with barrel-adjuster type controls which helps tailor the lever feel and performance to each individual (and helps compensate for pad wear over time).

From day one my X0 brakes have been whisper quiet on the trails and I rarely experience that spaceship warbling sound I notice when others grab the chicken switches. The included rotors are mated perfectly to the pads and after 6+ months of riding in all kinds of conditions (wet, gritty, hot, snowy) I still have some wear left on the first set of pads.

One of the key performance metrics for any mountain bike brake set is modulation and in my experience the X0s offer smooth, regulated stopping power that’s easy to throttle from a little to a lot while screaming down the trail. SRAM talks about something they call “Deep Stroke Modulation” which is heavy on marketing-speak and light on actual technical details but honestly I don’t care – the ability to control braking power on the X0 brakes is both intuitive and consistent. As far as I can tell it’s just magic.

In keeping with the idea of providing a true mountain bike component group, SRAM offers the X0 brakes in multiple color ways (red, blue, gold, and black). The shiny black finish, which SRAM calls “Black Onyx,” looks hot but it’s also great at shedding mud and cleaning up after a dirty ride. No need to spray these parts with Pam – they’re already slickity slick.

Overall

If you haven’t guessed by now, I love the Avid X0 brakes and would recommend them to anyone building up or upgrading an XC/AM bike. To me, the best bike parts are easy to install (check), low maintenance (check), and don’t get in the way on the trail (check) – along those dimensions Avid’s X0 brakes are 3 for 3. Go ahead and give the X0 brakes a shot – what’s stopping you?

This is pretty much it. My little red rocket. The Dream Machine. The Monster. Here is the Banshee Legend II that I finally have all built up and ready to rip. It took me a while to get it (nearly) complete – I’m actually still waiting on two items that should be arriving shortly. But other than that, it’s done. I can’t wait until the slopes open for the season.

I first managed to get the bike together and out on the trail late in the season last year where I tested out some great products from Rockshox, Avid, and SRAM. Since then I added the final touches of bling from Loaded as well as Deemax Ultimate wheels from Mavic. Those early test rides on the Easton wheelset and Answer products really whetted my appetite for the main course.

The frame is a Banshee Legend II in medium:

Head angle: (63.8°) Seat angle: (70.5°)
Wheelbase: 1171mm / 46.1″
Bottom bracket height: 348mm /13.7″

If you don’t understand those angles and measurements, let me break it down for you: this frame is a purpose-built DH racer, designed for speed and fast cornering. The ultra-low BB keeps the center of gravity down low while the long wheelbase is great for stability.

The suspension arrangement is what Banshee calls their VF4B (Virtual Floating Four Bar) suspension. Now you might say it looks like someone else’s design but let’s face it: unless you have a single pivot, multi-link, suspension configs almost all look alike. However, there are actually small differences in pivot placement that make a big difference in performance. The virtual center region where the Legend II pivots is also different from other bikes. The short lower link, positioning of the links, and lengths of the links make for an ideal axle path. This path starts arcing up and to the rear (perfect for absorbing square edged bumps) in the first bit of travel; from the middle to the end of its path, the axle goes up and forward (reduces chain growth and pedal feedback).

Up front I’m running the Manitou Dorado Pro. I did have the BoXXer WC on there, but for now I’m running the Dorado Pro. I just received the Loaded AmX Rizer bar, a beast of a bar at 31″ wide and 328 grams. The AmX Rizer features 8° back sweep and 4° up sweep which is just right for me. Connecting the bar to the Dorado I have the Loaded AmX direct mount stem set at 45mm length (adjustable to 50mm as well).

Completing the controls, I’m rocking Formula’s ONE brakes (I also run the 2011 Avid Codes) and I love the levers because they take up virtually zero room on my bars and have a great feel (never mind the power and excellent modulation). The shifter is  a SRAM 10spd X0 (presently my favorite) with 1×10 gearing.

Now let’s talk about the high performance drivetrain. The Descendant cranks are from Truvativ and I’ve added the e*thirteen SRS+ chain retention device to keep the SRAM PC 1091 chain in line. For now the pedals are Xpedo XMX12ACs which have a great feel and provide a wide foot plate. I’m also looking forward to trying Spank’s new Spike pedals soon. Although I don’t plan on doing much sitting on this bike, the saddle is a WTB Valcon mounted on a Loaded X-Lite seatpost.

On the back I have the SRAM X0 short cage 10spd derailleur on an OG1090 11-25 rear cassette. Talk about great shifting. Despite the fact that the rear cassette is the road version, it works great with the X0 rear derailleur. Wheels are the iconic Mavic Deemax Ultimates (12x150mm rear) which are super light for DH (under 2,000 grams) and oh so smooth.

Now all this is tied together by two other important things: the rear shock and tires. I’m running the Rockshox Vivid Air which provides an excellent feel while controlling the wheel nicely. For tires I went with the ITS Invader 2.5″. At about 1100 grams each, they offer a decent mix between weight and durability. The Invader is also what is considered an all conditions tire, perfect for the Ontario landscape where I do most my riding. Lately I’ve noticed North Shore type features popping up around here so I’m excited to see how these tires perform in a variety of conditions.

In its current state the bike weighs in under 40lbs. – 37 lbs. to be exact – and it’s still bulletproof. Weight savings come from several areas, starting with the innovative Interspoke milling on the Mavic rims. Banshee carefully selects tubing thicknesses and machined shapes while including titanium pivot hardware. The Vivid Air and the Sram OG-1090 rear cassette shed massive amounts of weight over competing products, accounting for a whole pound of savings together. The final little bits of weight fell off by replacing stock hardware bolts with titanium and alloy parts.

In case you’re interested here are the build details:

Frame: Banshee Legend II
Fork: Manitou Dorado Pro  / Rockshox BoXXer WC
Rear shock: Rockshox Vivid Air (240mm x 76mm) (9.5″x3.0″)
Seatpost: Loaded X-Lite
Saddle: WTB Valcon (Silverado Syndicate on order)
Cane Creek XX II headset
Stem: Loaded AmX direct mount / Answer -ONE (not shown at this time)
Bar: Loaded AmX riser bar (790mm / 31″) / Answer ProTAPER 780 DH
Bar Grips: ODI Ruffian
Brakes: Formula ONE 208mm rotors F/R / Avid Code (not shown)
Shifters: SRAM XO 1×10
Wheels: Mavic Deemax Ultimate
Tires: ITS 26 x 2.5″ Invader tires
Cranks: Truvativ Descendant / GXP BB 83mm 165mm lengths
Cassette: SRAM OG 1090
Chain: SRAM PC1091
Pedals: Xpedo XMX12AC
Extras: Alloy rotor bolts from Ashima, Titanium hardware for brakes, Titanium hardware for rear shock.

Based on a few early test rides I’ve found this bike loves all the lightweight components; in particular the lighter Deemax wheels actually showed increased precision and tracking. I love pitching the bike in corners and the feeling of control I get with the bike in the air. In the hands of a pro rider I can imagine some spectacular whips coming outta this bike!

One interesting thing I noticed so far is that for my body type (5’9″, 190lbs with 31″ inseam and regular arm length), a 50mm or 45mm stem works well with a riser bar; otherwise, running a 55mm stem with a flatter bar works equally well. A 30-31 inch bar seems to offer a good mix between control while limiting over-steering.

Speaking of control, I found with a properly tuned suspension I didn’t get a lot of the diving I normally expect from a long-legged trail machine. Keeping my weight centered or further back and nailing the brakes coming into sharp corners, the bike remains civil without that pitch feeling I’ve had on other machines. The front and rear suspension work well together to keep this ride stable (time spent setting up the shocks is key!). And when things do get rough, I absolutely understand why so much time was involved in the development of this bike. The Legend II feels pretty forgiving – hitting rocks didn’t seem to be much of an issue. The bike tracked nicely over that kind of stuff.

Once I get more seat time in and experiment a little with settings and parts, I’ll post further updates. Stayed tuned for more!

Looking at the photo above you might be thinking: are these Avid Codes?!? Yup they sure are. Totally revamped and improved for 2011 and you can see the difference right away. Gone is the clunky over-sized design; instead, the new Codes feature a sleek, lightweight profile that is very close in concept to the rest of the Avid brake line up. Fortunately the Codes keep many of the unique features that make them durable and reliable enough for gravity riders.

Crashing is inevitable for those who ride the slopes at high speed and the new Avid Code brake levers still feature the “Bend Zone” that allows the lever to flex which prevents damage to the lever body. The new levers also feature the same ultra-durable, 3-cartridge bearing pivot system as the previous generation Codes.

The 2011 Code system weighs in at 410 grams for the 160mm post mount version and the updated lever sports the same Taperbore technology as the rest of the 2011 Avid brake line-up. The integrated reservoir and pad contact adjustment is also featured on the new Codes as is an adjustable reach knob (shown above). The adjustable reach option is a wise addition to the brake since DH riders often have widely varying preferences for lever-to-bar distances. The new finish and graphics are something to behold – the whole set-up almost looks like surgical equipment!

The new Avid Codes still utilize a four piston caliper but this time around they feature a top loading pad (my personal favorite feature on a brake – other than stopping) and a caliper that has had a bit of the fat trimmed off with an adjustable banjo for that perfect fit. The caliper is a forged 2-piece unit that uses two bridge bolts compared to the four bolts that were used in previous versions. Thanks to the re-design, the new caliper is just as stiff or even stiffer. For friction material you’re getting a steel backing plate with organic linings which makes for a quieter brake. Inside, the brakes are running on DOT 5.1 fluid which keeps things crisp with great modulation. The Tri-align mounting system is perfect for frames that may not be perfectly straight and allows you to install the brakes in a fraction of the time it might normally take.

Speaking of installation, you get everything you need for each brake (front and rear) – just make sure to order the correct version for your needs and application. Although the calipers and levers are the same for front and rear, the hose lengths, rotors, and adapters are different. My set (shown above) came with front and rear 203mm G3 Cleansweep rotors. Following the easy instructions from Avid (these seem to get better every year), make sure you pay attention to the rotor bolt “star” installation section. Torque the T25 bolts down with a torque wrench and your rotor is good to go.

Following that, install the adapters as needed, and torque them in place. Finally, you’re ready to install the brakes to your bike. You can either fasten down the caliper or the levers first; I like to start with the calipers so I can run the cables exactly the way I want. Install the CPS caliper hardware loosely at first and run the cables up to the bars, fastening them to the frame with cable ties. [Side note: I used to love those snaps that some frames come with until mine popped off at the wrong time and I got a hose torn off. Lesson learned.] Now, at the bar end it’s just a matter of setting the correct angle and spacing, fastening the split clamp down with the supplied stainless steel hardware and torquing everything in place. Lastly, if necessary, shorten the hose.

The chart below shows the subjective brake performance of the new 2011 Avid Codes.

Once all that assembly stuff was out of the way I had to take these brakes out on the trail. This time around I installed the brakes on a brand new bike – my Banshee Legend II project bike – so I really didn’t know what to expect. Having ridden the older Codes (and honestly not liking them), I had a dim view of what was to come.

After putting these brakes to the test I’m happy to say the new Codes ride very differently than the older units. Avid really improved the brakes’ modulation – previous models worked more like on/off switches in many cases. I guess the revamped lever was part of the trick. Now when I ride I can play with the lever a bit to better control the wheel and I can still stop the bike in a hurry. After burnishing the pads I found I got surprisingly high levels of stopping power.

I also got a nice feel throughout the stroke when applying the brakes. At first contact there seems to be a very quick build of friction and stopping power with a high amount of torque. In some cases I found that I had to ease off the lever a touch as torque continued to build from the pads heating up. The second I got off the lever, the release was immediate with zero drag. Doing this often on some other brakes often leads to brake fade. Even over long runs the lever never went mushy. The Codes are definitely “one-finger brakes” thanks to the high braking forces – perfect for those of us who love gravity, are on the heavier side, or are just plain hard on our brakes.

Overall the 2011 Avid Code brakes ($235 MSRP) are impressive and offer a big upgrade over previous generations. Improved modulation, durable construction, and consistent performance make these a great choice for anyone who rides hard.

Thanks to the folks at Avid for sending down these brakes for a review.

Ohhh yeah! Finally, after what seemed like ages of waiting, my Banshee Legend II is ready to ride – and this past weekend I got to break it in. After the final parts arrived on Wednesday while I was work, I spent the evening getting everything cut, measured, installed, and torqued in place (more on that in a few).

A project bike like the Banshee Legend II is not something you can slap together and hope for the best. It’s important to look at what you’re going to be doing with a bike like this before you even spec the first part. Flying over rock gardens, drops, step ups, and almost anything else, you gotta make sure the bike (and you!) survive.

Just after arriving home from Interbike back in September, I was stoked to unbox the Banshee Legend II frame. At that point I already had some of the major components handy so I got most of the bike assembled. I installed a Cane Creek XXc headset and moved my Dorado fork over to the new rig. With a frame that’s worth a lot of $$, you may want to get a pro to do this part of the build, or at least invest in a headset press. I added an Answer DH direct-mount stem and my favorite handlebars, the Answer 780 DH, which pretty much completed the front end.

For stopping power I installed a set of Formula ONE brakes and the like-new Havoc DH wheel set I had on hand from last year (gotta hand it to Easton for building such a great set of wheels).

Then, a few weeks back a nice box of components arrived at my doorstep from SRAM with X.O shifting and the new Descendant crank (same one Peaty rides with). Now some may wonder why I decided to put a 10-speed drivetrain on a DH bike (many riders may argue a 9 or even 6 speed cassette is good enough). Three reasons: I’m not interested in butchering a cassette just to get a six-speed drivetrain, 10-speed spacing is tighter so shifting speed increases, and, perhaps most importantly, I’m no pro so I need a few extra gears when I actually have to pedal on the flats.

After another long night of installation and getting all the gears perfect and shifting amazingly on the stand, I had to wait on a rear shock and possibly a matching front fork. Well just last week a rather large box arrived, once again from SRAM. I got everything I needed to finish up the Legend plus two other bikes I’m building for next season (get ready for some interesting reviews and great products). This delivery added the new Vivid Air RC2, the BoXXer WC, and the new Code brakes. So yup, I had work to do. Off with the Dorado and on with the BoXXer as well as installing the Vivid and the new Codes. Looking at the bike I realized that this is turning out to be an almost all-SRAM DH bike.

Finishing off the bike with pedals, grips, saddle, and seatpost, I was still a few hours away from completion. Getting the cable and hose lengths just right is important and shouldn’t be rushed. After all, perfection is in the details so I ended up using Gore cables (love those so much!) for the rear derailleur to make sure the shifting is as smooth as possible. In fact these cables from Gore are a bit different from previous versions; unfortunately I can’t tell you how yet (they’re still top-secret). Anyhow, I also spent some time bleeding the Codes after I shortened the hoses; now I was ready for testing!

This weekend I took the Legend II to a local area where I could do some DH pre-testing (rock gardens, step downs, jumps, gaps and table tops abound). After a few runs I realized many of the components need a break-in period before they’re operating at full performance. Needless to say I still had a blast and I can’t wait to get more serious test rides in on my project bike.

I am very greatful to everyone who helped make this bike happen. Folks like Tyler Morland (Avid, Rockshox) Morgan Meredith (SRAM), Jay MacNeil (Banshee), Lois Mabon (Gore), Richard Travis (Manitou), Tom Porter (Answer), Christoph Vogl (Formula), Toby Henderson from THE, and Mark Reidy who reps Easton.

Stay tuned for more reviews on these great products and hopefully some more great AM-DH reviews on other items not yet installed!

Cheers

Hooking up with Morgan and Tyler from SRAM at Interbike, trek7k and I had a chance to go over the 2011 SRAM MTB product line. We got an up close look at the XX, X0, and X9 groups as well as all the other great mountain bike components. Overall I was really impressed with the SRAM booth – it had to be the biggest at Interbike. Everything was displayed in cool-looking cases like we were in a jewelery store display plus they had iPads and flat screen TVs up front!

We started off with a quick tour of the XX product line. The XX is the only SRAM group that is only offered in a 2×10 configuration (no 3×10 option available). Even though people may think the XX line is for XC racers only, don’t be surprised to see see this group on almost any style of bike, from DH to XC. The real star here is the carbon composite/aluminum cranks that weigh a scant 694 grams (with the BB30 option)

In my bike photo above you can see the rear derailleur and if you look closely you can almost see through the feather-light rear cassette (takes 9 hours to make one of these on a CNC machine). These cassettes weigh in at just 208 grams (11-36t), light enough for even the pickiest weight weenie. Heck, even the rear derailleur weighs less than 181 grams.

SRAM is always looking to take things to the next level so it comes as no surprise that the all new XX World Cup brake went on a diet and weighs a supermodel-thin 279 grams. SRAM also dropped the contact adjustment and with an obsidian black finish, these brakes look purdy.

The 2011 XO line is full of options for you and your bikes, including colors (red, black, gold and blue). You also have a choice with the XO to run 2×10 or 3×10 with multiple gear ratios available. With a new chassis in the rear derailleur you’re also looking at weight savings (about 200 grams depending on cage length) and greater strength. A new front derailleur is available with four clamping options to fit virtually any frame. To complete the group, Avid has a set of matching XO brakes that are Matchmaker X compatible plus a slightly less expensive cassette arrangement made from stamped steel instead of solid machined metal.

I was particularly interested in the X9 group as it offers the go-to components that most people will rock on their rides. This year the X9 group is all about options, tons of options. Just like the X0, the X9 can be configured as a 2×10 or 3×10 system. SRAM also offers Avid Elixir CR brakes and X9 hub options including new 142mm widths for your XC/AM rig.

As with the X0 line, you can choose from multiple colors (red, white, and gray make for many good color combos). SRAM ensures that the entire line-up is über compatible, including all the stems, bars , and grips.

The new CODE brake also caught my eye at Interbike. Compared to last year’s version the new CODE is more compact and, in my opinion, a better solution. You still get a very stout lever fully supported on bearings plus taper bore technology and the same integrated reservoir as the other Elixir series brakes. At 410 grams there are some weight savings as well.

So grab yourself a coffee or another beverage and check out all the 2011 component choices at Rockshox, Truvativ, and Avid. You can also keep up with the latest right here on the blog with upcoming reviews of the X0 group and other hot gear from SRAM coming soon.

Hydraulic disc brakes have many of the same components as mechanical disc systems with some minor but important differences. For one thing hydraulic disc brakes rely on fluid to push the pistons while mechanical brakes use a cable under tension pulling a lever to activate a cam device with a piston attached. Second, hydraulic brake lines have fluid in them under pressure when activated and cannot be damaged in any way (kinks, bulges, or leaks can render them ineffective).

Most hydraulic systems that are on the market today are dual piston (more powerful systems can have up to eight pistons), though a few entry level brakes operate similar to mechanical brakes with one piston that moves and one that is stationary. For systems that utilize two or more pistons, you will get more braking force, better modulation, and little or no drag and both pads will retract from your rotor after you apply the brakes. By using hydraulic fluid instead of a cable, there is less total drag on the brake system which gives a more crisp braking experience. With hydraulic disc brakes you are less likely to encounter problems in the long run compared to mechanical discs.

In this article we will follow the steps necessary to successfully service your hydraulic disc brakes:

Tools and equipment needed

Brake caliper inspection

Brake lever inspection

Brake hose inspection

Brake bleeding procedure

Brake pad replacement

Cleaning, assembly, torque, and adjustments

Tools and Equipment

Before we get started servicing hydraulic brakes it is necessary to have all the tools and supplies needed. When inspecting your brakes, make sure you have all the right tools like these bellow.

* Bleed kit specific to your brake which usually contains clear hoses, fittings to your caliper and lever, and squeeze bottles or syringes.
* Fresh brake fluid. Note: I highly recommend a good quality DOT 5.1 for Avid, Formula, Hayes, and Hope brakes. DO not use DOT 5. Use the mineral-based factory fluid for Shimano/Magura brakes. Do not use the mineral oil that’s sold from a drug store.
* Brake line wrenches, 8mm.
* Torque wrench.
* Allen sockets usually 4,5,6mm.
* Wrenches for bleed screws, usually a 6mm or 8mm.
* Torx wrenches (for bleed screws on brake lever usually T7,T8,T10).
* Torx wrench for rotor, T25.
* Alcohol used for cleaning up spills on the rotor surfaces.
* A lint-free cloth to wipe down your parts.
* Your brake manufacturer’s instructions (Avid, Magura, Hayes, they all have instructions which are available for free online).
* Bicycle repair stand that swivels.
* Spare parts as required for your service: Brake pads, stripped worn hardware, hoses, hose fittings…etc.

Brake Caliper Inspection

The first thing you need to do when servicing your hydraulic brakes it to remove the wheels and clean dirt and grime off the brake caliper. I use a worn out toothbrush, which does an excellent job. After you have cleaned the caliper, remove the brake pads.

Remember that your brake pads may have a return spring (placed between the pads), a cotter pin or a bolt that holds the pads in place. Sometimes there is not enough room to remove the pads and it may be necessary to carefully press/ pry the pads into the brake caliper using the pad separator that came with your brake set ( if you don’t have one just visit your LBS – they usually have dozens kicking around). A wide screwdriver may work here in a pinch.

Once the pads are in all the way you can carefully remove the pads one at a time by pulling them out with a pair of pliers. Once the pads are removed inspect the caliper for leaks around the pistons which now can been seen clearly. If the caliper pistons are not all the way in use a 10mm or 11mm wrench and pry the pistons all the way in, carefully avoiding the center post that usually resides in the middle of the piston. Prevent any oil from getting on the surface of the rotor or brake pads – the oil can ruin your brake pads permanently.

With the pads removed squeeze the brake lever 2 – 3 times and make sure the piston extends and retracts; this also helps lubricate the seals. After making sure your pistons move and both move the same amount, make sure that you retract them all the way in again using the 10mm wrench as before. If the pistons don’t move it’s time to get a rebuild kit (Avid, Hayes, Shimano) or a new caliper (Magura). Rebuilding a caliper is a bit involved and beyond many home mechanics’ skill set so I am excluding this procedure from this article.

Brake Lever Inspection

At this time you will now inspect your brake lever. First thing to do especially if you were involved in a accident is to check the lever and body for cracks or damage of any kind. If the lever feels loose it may be that the pivots are worn and need replacement; most manufacturers sell a pivot pin kit. Visually check and feel for leaks where the push rod meets the piston assembly. If it leaks it’s a good time to get the rebuild kit, or have your LBS take it from there. To finish the inspection get the torque wrench and check the torque of the bolts that hold the brake lever in place, and more importantly look to see that your bar has not cracked in that area (especially important for those riders who had a bad fall or own a carbon bar).

Brake Hose Inspection

Now is a great time to inspect your brake hose. Look along the entire length for any bulges, wet spots, or abrasions. If any of these signs show, it is time to replace your hose. Check the connection that goes between the hose and the caliper / lever; an 8mm wrench will usually help you tighten the hose in place.

Some manufacturers use a banjo fitting on the brake caliper. Take hold of the banjo fitting and see if it is tight by trying to move it by hand. If it moves it is loose and needs to be torqued once again. Finally, bikes with full suspension go through a lot of movement so visually inspect the hose to make sure the hose has not become worn in those areas.

Bleeding Brakes for Hydraulic Systems

At this point you may be wondering how air gets trapped in a hydraulic brake system anyway. If you open your system or shorten a hose, air can get introduced and must be removed. When this happens, the air is removed using a process called bleeding.

Hydraulic braking systems use a non-compressible fluid (such as DOT 3, 4, 5.1 or Mineral oil) to transmit force that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor. There must be no air trapped  in that system for the fluid to work properly. If air is in the line, considerable energy will be lost to compressing the air instead of operating the brakes.

I will use a hybrid method that Avid and Hayes recommend which is a sure shot way to remove air and eliminate future leaks.

Fill a syringe halfway with brake fluid and add your hose and all fittings required to attach it to the caliper. Tap the syringe and slowly squeeze it to remove the excess air (you know, like the surgeons do on ER). Once that is done, attach the syringe to the bleeder screw (on Hayes you need to place your bleeder wrench 6mm first). On Hayes brakes you can leave the bleeder closed for the next step; for Avid brakes you’ll need to clamp the hose with the red clamp provided. Slightly pull back on the syringe plunger to create a small vacuum then tap the side of the syringe. This step will de-gas the brake fluid, removing the absorbed air in the brake fluid (a great trick).

Now to the caliper lever. Attach the fitting provided from your manufacturer using a partially filled syringe (or bottle as shown) of brake fluid. Remove the bleeder port and then attach it to the bleeder port with the necessary fittings and hoses. If it’s a system like Magura/Shimano you will need to open the reservoir at this point. It may also be necessary to rotate the bike on your stand or rotate the brake lever to get the proper position to remove all the air. For Shimano and Magura you need to have the brake levers parallel to the ground.

To prevent the pistons from extending out of your caliper, use either a folded piece of cardboard or a specific tool from your manufacturer to prevent the pads from extending. Now squeeze the syringe (or bottle) at the caliper and crack open the bleeder screw using the correct wrench. Wait for fluid to flow into the brake lever. Look for bubbles at the syringe / bottle near the brake lever and tap the brake hose, caliper, and lever to shake free the air bubbles that may stick to the inside of your brake system (Magura is notorious for that). Once the fluid is entering the syringe is free of air bubbles (syringe at the brake lever), close the brake bleeder screw (brake caliper) and squeeze the brake lever a few times.

The lever should travel about halfway through its stroke. If it’s OK, close the bleeder screw port on the brake lever ( Magura / Shimano – cover the brake cap and reset the brake lever). Clean up any small spills and use some alcohol to clean off any spills on the brake lever and caliper.

Brake Pad Inspection

With the pads removed, inspect their thickness, looking for a minimum of 1mm of friction material or a total pad minimum thickness of 3mm ( Hayes/ Avid), or 2.5mm for Magura. While you are at it, inspect the spring and clips to ensure they have enough spring strength to retract the pads.

Brake pads that have friction material thicker than 1mm may not need replacing but should be cleaned and deglazed. Lay medium close coat sandpaper flat on a table and with a circular motion lightly rub the brake pad on the sand paper until the pad surface is flat and uniform. Before you reinstall the pads quickly check that the thickness is still greater than 3mm. If your brake pads are less than 3mm thick, install new pads.

Remember that your brake pad may have a return spring (placed between the pads), a cotter pin, or a bolt that holds the pads in place. Otherwise your system has a retaining spring on the back of your pad so make sure it clicks firmly into place and your pads are flush to the pistons.

Inspecting and Cleaning Rotors

The next task is to recondition the rotors by removing any glaze that may have accumulated on them. Remove the rotor if it is attached with T25 torx bolts or a Shimano centre lock. You can service the rotor while still attached to the wheel if you don’t have the tools to remove the rotor from the hub – just be careful to keep your fingers clear!

Fold medium sandpaper around a straight block to create a flat sanding surface. Rub the sand paper tangentially on both sides of the rotor’s braking surfaces. Now the rotor looks new and has cross hatching marks, or scratches at 33 degree angles from one another.

If necessary, reinstall the rotor and make sure you torque the bolts back at 55 – 60 inch pounds. When applying torque to the bolts, it should be done evenly and not in a circular pattern. Finally, clean the rotor off with a clean cloth and alcohol to remove any oil or fine metal particles. Replace your wheel and check the operation of the brakes.

Torque Inspection

Once you have the pads adjusted, the rotors and pads cleaned, and your cables lubricated, apply the correct amount of torque on your entire braking system, caliper bolts, caliper adapters, and the brake levers using a torque wrench and adjust if needed. Always follow your specific brake manufacturer’s recommended torque settings.

I hope this guide helps you with checking your brakes. This information will be great as a guide for those who already have a decent working knowledge of their bicycle and for those who are getting into repairing their own bike. Please have your owner’s manual handy for specific information regarding your brakes.

I would like to thank Gino Sena the owner of Cyclepath North York for the use of his shop and a few of his bikes for some of the photos in my article and also the good folks at Opus bikes, Hayes and Avid for some of the products that were featured here.

Whenever my friends ask about brakes there are always two that are mentioned: Hayes and Avid. Today I am going to run a head-to-head comparison of  the Hayes Stroker Trail and the Avid Juicy 7, each considered the “do-all” model for their brand. Depending on who you ask you will get different opinions about these disc brakes, some based on fact, others based on hearsay and it can be difficult at times to differentiate between the two. I’ll do my best to give facts and skip the hearsay.

Out of the box both kits come with everything you need to install your brakes: mounting brackets, bolts, a complete caliper hose lever assembly, and of course a rotor. Both kits give you ample hose length to fit all bikes out there – just remember they are sold as a front and rear brake sets.

In the photo above you can see the Hayes Stroker master cylinder is integrated within the body and makes for a sleek design. The Juicy, on the other hand, has its master cylinder jutting out a bit and the overall size of the Juicy Seven is a bit larger as well.

Both braking systems work well and stop well out of the box , however you can always make them better. For example, one thing you can do that will make the Hayes Stroker modulate just as well as the Avid is to change the brake fluid in it – I recommend a good quality DOT 5.1. Just visit any motorcycle shop and look for Motul 5.1 or a similar DOT 5.1 with a high boiling point. Another upgrade that can shave some weight is changing the bolts over to titanium which can save close to 60g per set. The photo above shows a Stroker Trail that has had its fluid changed over to a DOT 5.1 as well as the bolts changed over to titanium. On the Stroker caliper there are 6 M6 bolts and installing or replacing these bolts is pretty easy – just follow the instructions carefully.

There a few things you can do to improve the performance of the Juicy Seven as well but the biggest thing is to make sure your installation is correct. Make sure you slowly tighten the bolts that hold the caliper to the frame/fork and pay attention to the CPS hardware during installation. If you’re replacing the brake pads it’s a good idea to replaces the spring at the same time. Upgrading the 8 caliper bolts on the Avid Juicy Seven to titanium you will save about 70gm per wheel – pretty big savings for such a minor tweak!

With both braking systems it’s important you torque all bolts properly and check them regularly. Over time you may decide to upgrade your rotors and both brake sets are compatible with rotors from various manufacturers. The Hayes set-up pictured above is using a Magura Venti rotor.

As you can see, both the Avid and Hayes hydraulic brake systems have their pros and cons and depending on your needs or riding style you may find one better than the other. Don’t just settle when it comes to choosing a braking system for your mountain bike – keep experimenting until you find the best set-up for you!