Pssst – hey you on that DH bike – wanna drop some weight and increase performance on your rig? I though so. At 5.98lbs, the BoXXer WC is probably the lightest 200mm DH fork on the market today – the next closest contender I know of is the 6.4lb Manitou Dorado MRD – so you’re looking at a good half pound off that front end of yours. The weight savings alone are huge but there are many more refinements to be had with the Rock Shox World Cup BoXXer.

Let’s start with the outside of the fork and work our way in. The BoXXer is available in 4 colors this year: red, white, and black plus the new super cool Keronite finish. Keronite is basically a very hard ceramic finish that can be applied to aluminum, magnesium, and titanium. The process is similar to that of a plasma coating except it’s far more advanced and precise. The process actually works at a molecular level, changing the base material to a ceramic surface, resulting in a super hard surface with enhanced base material properties. Having had a few of my projects treated with Keronite, I can say it is simply amazing.

Other external changes include re-tooled knobs to save weight and new graphics with the World Cup championship colors. The familiar etched graphics on the stanchions and pressure chart on the fork leg are nice touches and help with sag set up on the go. The BoXXer features post mounts to increases the stiffness of the brake assembly over older IS standards; many of the newer brakes being produced are post mount compatible.

Internally the BoXXer has a host of new features over last year’s 2010 model. For one thing, RockShox put the fork under a microscope to reduce friction (something of a bother from last year’s model). The engineers looked at everything from seals to bushings and re-designed the damper cartridge and the Solo air spring assembly to eliminate friction points. RockShox kept the 35mm 7000 series aluminum stanchions, which are hard anodized for long life and lower friction (stiction), the lower magnesium legs with the power bulge, and of course the high performance Maxle Lite DH 20mm axle.

The re-worked Dual Flow adjustment (high – low speed rebound) and the tuned Mission Control DH valving (high-low speed compression) really perk up this fork for 2011. Although it takes a bit of time to set everything just right, the effort really pays off in the end. The re-worked valving truly changes how the fork behaves over fast, rough terrain and absorbs the larger features that you’ll find anywhere. The internals sport a totally upgraded Solo unit (which can be retro-fitted into the 2010 model, though not the Race version), but unfortunately the new damper won’t fit – sorry. I checked simply because I have a few friends who own the 2010 WC and they were interested in upgrading after riding my 2011 version.

Installing the BoXXer WC (1-1/8″ aluminum steering tube) was pretty easy – it’s just a matter of measuring twice and cutting once. As always, read the manual and torque the bolts in place with a quality torque wrench. Remember spacing between crowns must be 156mm ±2mm. The minimum the stanchion length is exposed on the top crown is 2mm so before cutting the steering tube (if you’re going with a direct mount stem) it must extend 2mm from the top of the upper crown. Other than that business, all is good.

Dialing it in

Setting up the BoXXer WC took a good solid day of riding plus a break-in period. I found the fork needed a little time to get everything seated and felling creamy smooth. With the BoXXer it’s important to follow the RockShox tuning recommendations to get the fork set up right – that is, unless you have your own world-cup tech on speed dial. Get the air spring pressure set first (sag) by jouncing the fork a few times to equalize the pressures in the positive and negative chambers. I found the BoXXer-specific pump to be great – the large air volume this pump delivers is helpful – otherwise you might be there all day with a standard shock pump.

Once the sag is set it’s time to configure the beginning stroke rebound dampening (first 25% of travel). This really should be done on the trail and not on the streets. Find a familiar section of trail and session it. Add one or two clicks at a time to the small knob on the bottom (hold the larger knob to keep it from turning). You want the fork to return fast, but not so fast that it stings the hands or feels like it’s going to toss you off the bike. Next, set the end stroke rebound (for coming off bigger hits) where the travel range goes from 25% to 100%. Again, you’re looking to avoid getting bucked off the bike. Too much of either the high or low speed rebound and you get what’s called packing down – basically losing more and more travel with every hit.

Now, set up the low and high speed compression. Low speed compression allows you to to balance trail sensitivity and fork dive – basically changing how the fork feels. Too much compression and the fork tends to skip over some of the bumps and feels very harsh; too little and the fork dives when hitting the brakes and cornering. Once you get the low speed set, dial in the high speed setting for big drops, rock gardens at speed, etc. The goal here is to get maximum control over the wheel. You don’t want the fork to blow though the travel on the big hits so add more compression until you get a controlled compression. Too much snaps the wrists back and stings; too little and it feels like the bike bogs down and gets wallowy.

The final setting is the end stroke adjuster which changes the volume of the air chamber during the fork’s last 20% of travel. Reducing the volume will ramp up the spring rate, yielding a more progressive feel. This is one of those settings that is totally subjective, depending on the rider. If I was going from a drop to flat I would add more end stroke (for my 200lb. weight I’d add about 4 turns).

Ok, even though some of this might sound more complicated than a NASA checklist, don’t worry. The tuning guide that RockShox includes is easy to follow and understand and Rockshox encourages you to play with the settings. I ended up downloading the guide and printing out a few of the “My Favorite Setting” charts to remember what I liked best during testing. All the controls were easy to use except the bottom out dial – I recommend having a 2.5mm allen key handy and being prepared to remove the air from the air spring to adjust it. I did take the knob off and added a tiny touch of synthetic lube to the seal before replacing it to see if that would help. This gave me marginal improvement and was really the only small issue I found with this fork.

Hitting the Trail

I installed the BoXXer WC on my Banshee Legend II and it definitely stepped up the Legend’s game. Once the fork was broken in I spent a bit of time re-setting the dials and had a really good time. The lightness of the fork really made it easy to control the bike and on low speed, technical rock gardens and general gnar I felt consistent control over my front wheel.

Taping the powerful 2011 Code brakes would cause almost any bike to dive like a submarine but I found with the compression set midway at 6 clicks and the low speed at 4 clicks, the fork struck a good balance between traction and control. Even on taxing rock gardens where the suspension travel got a real workout I still maintained perfect control over the bike without having it pack down underneath me. On rock gardens there’s always the chance of a glance causing the bike to slip sideways; some forks will twist in this situation. On the BoXXer I didn’t notice any flex – the bike always tracked where I wanted it to go.

Big hits with the BoXXer were just too fun. The lighter weight allowed me to move the bike a bit more without a lot of extra body effort. The lighter weight also seemed to increase performance of the bike as well. A lighter fork reduces sprung mass to a degree, particularly if the reduction in mass is on the fork lowers.

Overall the BoXXer WC works very well and any racer should be happy with this unit with little worry about maintenance. So my last two cents? Try 0ne out for yourself,  I’m sure you will be impressed. If you have a 2010 model and don’t want to fork out the cash for a new one, get yourself the air cartridge (fits WC and Team models only) for a nice performance boost.

Ok, so how much does this wonder of modern mountain bike technology cost? Well as far as world class forks are concerned, I can say the BoXXer is right in line at $1,700 MSRP. Now if that is a bit more than you can afford, test out the Team or Race versions. These forks are a bit heavier and feature a coil spring which can be more difficult to tune but are definitely worth a look.

A big thanks to Tyler Morland from RockShox for setting sending up the BoXXer WC for a review. Another thanks to my good friend Michael Chan for taking those snowy shots. Stay tuned for a write up on a few other exciting products from Rockshox as well as SRAM. Next up: the Rockshox Vivid Air.

As 29ers move beyond the world of XC and into all-mountain territory, the need for burlier, high performance suspension forks has quickly become apparent. While many manufacturers work just to get their XC forks down to fighting weight, Manitou has found a way to produce a lightweight, high performance fork that is just as comfortable zooming over rocks as it is flowing over hardpack. The Manitou Minute 29er suspension fork promises to take minutes off your regular course times because it’s lighter, more responsive, and more adjustable than other forks we’ve ridden. Plus, since it’s also designed for AM riding, the Minute 29er is as rugged and durable as it is good looking.

Lightweight

Manitou markets this fork as 50% XC, 50% AM so this portion of the review will mostly speak to the XC weight weenies out there (though who doesn’t want a lighter bike?). On paper the Minute 29er fork weighs in at 1740 grams (the 100mm version), about 100 grams lighter than the Reba SL that came with my bike.  The weight savings alone are significant but even more so when you consider the performance gains over a more XC-oriented fork like the Reba SL.

Weight savings come through a variety of design and manufacturing innovations, most notably Manitou’s proprietary MARS Air and Hollow Crown technologies. MARS Air essentially places a coil spring in series with an air chamber to provide creamy, “bottomless” travel while still taking advantage of lower weights and the adjustability of an air spring. Hollow Crown is exactly what it sounds like: Manitou has developed a process to remove unnecessary material from the Minute 29er crown while maintaining strength and durability. The crown is integrated into the one-piece casting and is made from lightweight magnesium for maximum durability and minimal weight.

Responsive

During my initial testing I have to admit I was a little frustrated with the 20mm Hex Lock through axle configuration, especially compared to the easygoing QR axle on my old fork. The extra time to remove the wheel and the hassle of tightening bolts seemed like a big step backward – that is, until I really started riding hard.  The Manitou Hex Lock through-axle stiffens the entire front end which felt great through fast turns (no wobble) and allowed me to pick through technical lines with predictable, pinpoint accuracy.

20mm hex Lock through axle. Blue rebound control knob, no tools required.

Aside from the stiffness produced by the through axle, the Minute 29er also features a unique reverse arch design that effectively shortens the distance from the dropouts to the arch. This gives the fork even more torsional stiffness and makes Manitou forks unique from others on the market. The upshot: every bit of force you put into turning the handlebars goes right to your front wheel.

Adjustable

One of the things that sets the Minute 29er fork apart from many strictly XC-oriented forks is the ability to fine tune preload, platform, and rebound.

Setting pre-load on the Minute 29er fork is easy – just consult the included sag chart to get a good baseline pressure setting (the air valve is conveniently located on top of the right stanchion). I found the recommended pressure gave me just the right amount of sag but you’ll want to double-check because every bike set-up is different.

The Absolute+ platform damper on the Minute 29er fork is, in a word, amazing. The selector allows you to choose from one of 6 settings on the easy-to-access dial atop the left stanchion and as element22 likes to say, it’s nice and “clicky.”  In the full open position you get plush, responsive suspension which is perfect for high speeds over everything from small bumps to medium drops. At the other end of the dial, with the damper locked out, you get efficient pedaling out of the saddle with zero braking dive, yet you still have insurance against unexpected abrupt hits.

During my hut-to-hut trip over the summer the Absolute damper came in super handy since the route was constantly changing from fire road descents to technical singletrack to punishing climbs. And since I was carrying a gear bag on my handlebars I was able to dial the travel precisely to avoid the buzz of my bag contacting the front tire.

Setting the rebound on the Minute 29er fork is a cinch and to be honest I haven’t had to fiddle with it too much. For fast, washboard trail riding it’s possible to set the rebound to return the fork more quickly; for lower speed steps and drops you can set the rebound to offer a more controlled return.

Durable

One of the big considerations I had when gearing up for my hut-to-hut trip this summer was durability and dependability on the trail. I ended up putting the Minute 29er on my bike about a month before the trip, not because it was lightweight (though it did save me a few grams) but because I felt like it could better withstand the increased weight and rocky, unforgiving terrain between Durango and Moab. So I wasn’t surprised at all that the fork held up flawlessly and didn’t need a single adjustment along the way.

At home I feel confident tackling technical trails at higher speeds because I know the Minute 29er is designed to mate with more aggressive all-mountain rigs. In fact, as I contemplate building up my first FS rig (shock!), the Minute 29er fork is at the top of my list thanks to its responsiveness and durability at high speeds on pockmarked trails.

Bottom Line

Manitou has managed to adapt the high performance Minute platform to work flawlessly with 29er geometry in a brilliant marriage of light weight and high quality. The Minute 29er fork ($599 MSRP, 30% off at JensonUSA right now) is a great choice for riders who enjoy aggressive cross-country and even all-mountain riding but don’t want to pay a weight penalty for the privilege. If you’re looking to take minutes off your best lap times on the race course or just the after-work-loop, upgrade your fork to the Minute. 29er.

Thanks to the folks at Manitou for providing the Minute 29er fork for review.

Words like tail whip, case proof, table tops, doubles, rock garden waterfalls, shuttle runs, and sessioning will get your heart pumping and adrenaline soaring but before you saddle up you need to make sure you and your machine can survive it all. I recently had the privilege of putting some time in with the RockShox Totem Solo Air fork and Vivid 5.1 rear shock on my Opus Nelson and not only did we survive – we owned it.

This year’s RockShox Totem Solo Air DH ($1096 MSRP) includes a high pressure pump as well as the SpeedLube kit. You have a choice of aluminum steering tube options (1 1/8″ straight, 1 1/8″ – 1.5″ tapered and 1.5″ straight) so if you’re in the need of a 180mm fork the Totem is sure to have you covered. My fork comes in at 5.8lbs which is more than half a pound lighter than the previous Totem coil I was running.

Installation and Setup

Since this fork costs over a thousand dollars and sports a 1.5″ steering tube, it may be wise to have someone with the proper steering tube cutting guide tackle installation for you. I recommend the SG-7 from Park Tool or a pipe cutter capable of cutting pipes over 1.5″ in diameter. Either way you go, it’s imperative that you get the steering tube cut straight and to the correct length the first time, especially if you’re not planning on using spacers. The proper tube length can be determined by measuring the steering tube, adding the stem measurement (the length of steering tube that the stem covers), and finally the stack height. Don’t forget to subtract 3mm from that total to allot space for the top cap. Check this article on how to install a fork for further information.

Once the Totem is installed it’s important to break in the fork. Pump in the recommended amount of air into the left fork leg and then jounce things around for a good 20 minutes or so to get all the fluids where they should be while relaxing the internals a touch.  After that, it’s time to set up the Totem and head for the trails.

The Totem Solo Air DH has settings for beginning rebound, high speed compression, low speed compression and air spring pressure. When personalizing my settings I usually start with air spring pressure. I put on all the equipment I normally wear on the bike – helmet, armor, hydration and snacks. I weigh myself with full gear and use that number to get the recommended air pressure setting. Looking at the sag meter on the right fork leg I set my fork at 25% sag.

Low Speed Compression

Setting the low speed compression is the next step and it’s a good idea to start at full soft (about 4 clicks in) before adding clicks until you’re satisfied that the front of the bike doesn’t dive excessively when pedaling or hitting the brakes hard.

High Speed Compression

Finding the right high speed compression setting will take a bit of time riding as you need to get the speed of the fork up. The best way to check your settings is to take a drop or a square edged corner to get the shock reacting quickly. Again, I like start at about 4 clicks in and I keep adding damping until I have a controlled fork compression without the fork eating up all its travel and bottoming out (stopping abruptly in its internal bump stop). You will know you have too much high speed compression when you feel your wrists compress and an uncomfortable amount of force travels through your body on impact.

Rebound

Rebound is the final setting to manipulate and you can also do this one on the trail. Here you’re looking for a controlled return to ride height after the fork compresses. You don’t want the fork to feel like it’s tossing you off the bike on return (too little rebound) nor do you want the fork to come up so fast that it feels like the fork is losing travel over multiple bumps (too much rebound). I set rebound so that when my palms are open and I press down hard, the returning force doesn’t push my hands away from the bars.

On the slopes with the Totem

Hitting my favorite testing ground with a new fork this early in the season was a real treat and I almost immediately noticed a difference in how the fork performed compared to the older coil unit that I had. Right off the bat the reduction in weight on the front end made it much easier for me to change direction through tricky obstacles. Consequently, going over flowy sections on the slope didn’t leave me as tired from pulling on the bars and left me with an ever bigger grin than usual.

The trails where I ride offer a great mix of rock gardens with progressively larger rocks (one of BTB’s favorite features to challenge riders) plus sections of super fast and smooth lines. These trails also go from raggedy, off-camber rooted sections along steep slopes to multiple step downs, step ups, and progressive table top jumps – basically your everyday freerider paradise.

The transitions from fast stretches dropping into the tighter, technical rooty sections was great for testing the Totem’s low speed compression. This fork maintained its composure, controlling the attitude of my bike while braking and keeping the front end at ride height without feeling harsh in my hands. With the drop downs and table top jumps I felt like I was landing on a soft pillow before rapidly recovering with a controlled return to ride height. Whenever the bike hit the ground, the fork did its thing on initial impact, slowing me down without that harsh feeling on the wrists. Rebound also felt good coming back without bucking me off like a wild bronco.

From my tests I could also tell that this fork is tough – really tough. At one point I cased a jump so bad I had a few of my buddies on speed dial to 911 as I skidded across the dirt in a 720 degree body flip. There wasn’t a scratch or dent on the fork despite that tumble and everything still works great.

For those of you who are looking for a heavy-duty, single crown FR fork, the Totem Solo Air DH should be on a real short list of must haves. If pressed for a complaint about this fork I’d have to say I’d like to see a cable clip for the brake cable instead of having to use a cable tie (nitpicky, I know). I really love the simple layout and how easy it is to tune this fork; the high flow compression piston is my new best friend. And for those of you who love being an individual, the Totem comes with a massive sticker pack that allows you to make this fork uniquely your own. Check out the RockShox website for further details.

My overall ratings (out of 10)

Specs from RockShox:

I would like to thank the folks at RockShox for providing the Totem Solo Air DH for review, and of course the good folks at OPUS for the Nelson as my test bike. Stay tuned for the Vivid 5.1 review.

Here is a suspension fork that’s so much fun that the folks at Manitou even sent it out with a clown nose!  Manitou has managed to integrate fun as well as technology into a new DJ (dirt jump) fork called the Circus. Richard Travis from Manitou told me part of the fun was to find an artist from outside the bike industry to put a unique and fresh spin on things. As Richard put it “(We wanted to) capture something different and non-bike like, something challenging but weird enough to remind you that the freaks are out there.” Very cool. The artist opted to use almost Python-esque graphics of clowns and other related paraphernalia which I was more than happy to adorn my fork with.

On the technical side of things, Manitou has two versions: the Circus Comp which I am reviewing and the more advanced Circus Expert. The Comp version that I received features 32mm 4130 chromoly stanchions that look like they can take a beating; and not just any kind of beating, but a full on gang brawl. The chromoly ensures this fork will last a long time, withstanding hundreds of hits and jumps. To keep the internals from bashing themselves to bits, Manitou added a unique dual bottom out bumper arrangement, an extra measure of protection for coming off big jumps and going into full compression.

The Circus also has a new casting for its lowers which increases strength, stiffness, and durability. Manitou went and tweaked their new Absolute+ damper and tuned it specifically for jumping, increasing the high-speed compression dampening a touch. You can jump with the Circus in lockout all day long without damaging the internals thanks to its high-speed shim stack (you probably wouldn’t want to do this, but for lazy folks it’s possible).

I had the pleasure of meeting up with Jon Wells, one of the shredders who did some of the initial testing on the Circus (other riders like Dustin Greenall, Steve Romaniuk, and Garett Buehler rock the Circus DJ as well).  Jon has put in some time on this fork and gave me a few pointers on setting it up. With his suggestions in mind and after a few hours riding the fork myself, I managed to get my Circus dialed in super fine.

NO this is not me but a photo taken of Dustin Greenall doing a superseat (credit to Bryce Piwek)

Setting up the Circus Comp was rather easy. It took about half an hour to get the steering tube measured, cut, and star nut installed. It took another 15 minutes to get the fork on the bike and the front brake attached. Make sure you follow all instructions and torque settings for optimal results.

The Comp is a coil spring pre-load unit which does not require air to set. I found a few clicks (clockwise) was enough to get the right amount of sag (I personally use very little with this shock). The adjustment on the pre-load along with the spring that is supplied is good enough for riders up to about 220lb. During the winter months when I’m not riding every day my weight tends to migrate to nearly 200lbs and this fork works well for me.

After setting up the pre-load, I like to work on setting the compression (ABS+) knob. I typically turn mine in all the way to lockout then back it off about 3 clicks. In terms of rebound I prefer to set things right smack in the middle. I find this combination of compression and rebound settings works best, giving me a fork that has just enough give in it to take the sting out of almost anything while still giving me full feedback from the course.

I really loved the quick response of the Circus, especially running around the pump track. I found the fork was always working for me rather than trying to play catch up as I cycled the fork up and down over the track. If you take a peek at the video below, paying close attention to the fork as it’s rolling over the pump track, you can see that it tracks perfectly without bouncing. This is a great trait for any fork to have: the fork is holding your mass up while controlling and isolating the movement of the bike. In the case of poor tracking you would see unwanted movement which often feels as if the front end goes mushy.

For a fork that is under $400, the Circus Comp is tough to beat. The fork works perfectly, it tracks well on the pump track and off the jumps, and I have to say it puts a big smile on my face. If you’re planning on hitting the local jump park frequently I would recommend you give this fork a close look. As an added bonus you get some really fresh graphics to make the fork uniquely your own. And don’t forget your clown nose!

Circus Expert Specs
Weight: 4.7lbs/2133grams
Travel: 80, 100mm & 130mm
Legs: 32mm Stanchions straight wall 7050 Aluminum
Spring: Firm (extra firm available in Aftermarket) w/Air preload
Damper: ABS+, lockout & rebound adjust
Hub/ Axle: 20mm Hex Lock
Features: Double bottom out bumpers, 4 decal sheets and clown nose
Cost:US MSRP $449

Circus Comp Specs
Weight: 5.3lbs/2406grams
Travel: 80 & 100mm
Chassis: 32mm Stanchions straight wall 4130 Chrome Moly
Spring: Firm (extra firm available in Aftermarket) w/ mechanical preload
Damper: ABS+ , lockout & rebound adjust
Hub/ Axle: 20mm Hex Lock
Features: Double bottom out bumpers, 4 decal sheets and clown nose
Cost:US MSRP $399

Straight 1-1/8″ steer, 6 inch post mounts

I like to thank the folks at Manitou for providing the Circus DJ Comp for review.

Hey weight weenies, I got another one for you! Actually, this is for everyone who’s into lightweight XC gear: The Manitou R7 Elite 100mm (MSRP $450) is the perfect choice for those who are looking for an affordable, lightweight, XC performance suspension fork. The R7 Elite comes in both 100mm and 80mm travel configurations and has great features everyone will appreciate while ditching the unnecessary features that inflate weight and cost.

For starters, this fork is very light – just a touch over 3 lbs. The R7 Elite includes post mounts for disc brakes (no V-brake mounts) and the post bosses where you mount your brake are already machined flat with no paint (very important for installing brakes properly). The controls are simple and well thought out and can be manipulated without removing a glove. The R7 also gives you independent compression and rebound controls.

Installation

Installation is fairly straightforward and you can use the fork installation guide that I posted previously for details. Otherwise, here’s the short version: First, remove the old components as an assembly. Record the steering tube length of the old fork and then mark the new fork with the same measurement with a fine felt-tip marker. After confirming the measurements a few times, cut the steering tube to the correct length using a very sharp pipe cutter. Once the steering tube is cut, remove the burrs and don’t forget to install a fresh star nut (use a nut setter such as the TNS-1 from Park tools).

Setup

Once the wheels, brakes, and stem bolts are all torqued in place, the next step is to air up the fork and set the sag. Manitou asks that you use about 50% to 60% of your body weight, in my case 110lbs as a starting point of pressure for the fork’s air spring pressure. Then measure the distance from the front axle centerline to the bottom of the crown when no one is sitting on the bike and write down this measurement. Next, sit on the bike and measure the same distance as before (it’s important to be in the normal riding position, weight centered, with your feet on the pedals). Subtract the second measurement from the first and the result is the sag. Seeing that this is a 100mm fork and I wanted a 15% sag, I chose a measurement of 85mm. After all, this is an XC fork designed for racing meaning I’ll want as little bob as possible, yet as much tracking as I can get. Following the recommended procedure for setting sag will make a huge difference in performance.

Compression

This fork comes with independent compression and rebound adjustments. The method I always follow for adjusting fork settings starts with a quick ride around, bouncing the fork here and there to get the fork’s internals well lubricated. Once that is complete I hit the trail to see how the fork is reacts to the terrain. Specifically I’m looking for excessive dive when braking or bigger hits (remember this is an XC fork so a big hit here is about a foot). Based on my observations I dial in compression to the point where I get minimal dive when hitting the brakes but not enough that I feel the impacts are jarring my wrists. Once I’m comfortable with the compression setting I concentrate on rebound.

Rebound

The procedure for finding the right rebound settings is very much like the procedure for compression – it’s all about adjusting to your feel. Here I take the bike over a bump and feel for the speed at which the fork returns back. I adjust the fork so that it returns in a controlled manner and not too quickly (which often feels like a stinging sensation on your wrists). With a slow rebound setting the fork “packs down” (does not return fast enough before the next bump on the trail) and limits travel.

XC trail riding

Once the fork is set and after a few hours of breaking in the seals I hit my favorite XC trails at the DVP and Albion Hills where they host some of the 24 Hour events here in Ontario. Both Albion and the DVP offer a variety of trail conditions including heavily rooted and washboard sections – a good challenge for any fork!

My first impressions with the R7 were pretty much what I anticipated: fast, responsive, and stiff. On the trails with the R7 I felt everything and knew exactly where the fork was going; the R7 is basically a point and shoot affair. The fork tracks without flexing even when riding off-camber sections or in any other situation for that matter. When hitting roots and ruts on the trails the R7 soaked up the hits well and did a great job at keeping the tire in contact with the ground at all times, even over washboard sections.

This fork is not equipped with a lock out (yet) so to use the R7 effectively you should remain seated while climbing and stay slightly forward on the bike during steep climbs. When holding that riding position, the fork works great at preventing unwanted bobbing. Riding one to two foot drop offs I found the fork absorbed the hits well and returned to ride height under full control.

Rating the R7 Elite

Thanks to the folks at Manitou for the chance to review the R7  Elite. For further information on Manitou’s  products check out the website which is now updated with all the new forks as well as a wealth of information for all their gear.

Cheers!

R7 Elite Specifications