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    • #504088

      The proper selection of coil is key as to how the shock performs. They are rated in #’s such as 350 and 400 #’s, for instance. Too heavy and harsh ride, too light and easy bottom out. Bottom out and you risk breaking the shock mount on a frame.

      Air, typically easy to adjust into the ballpark that it needs to be in. With correct valving, they can be either firm or soft and plush as a 1970 Cadillac.

      Coils tend to perform very well on washboard since they can rebound fairly fast and not pack up.

      Air. While they perform very well, care in setting rebound fairly fast as well as air pressure for the riding style. Slow rebound causes pack up and loss of suspension function.

      Pack up is when the shock travels part way but cannot rebound or cannot do so fast enough to be active and plush.

      Push Industries specializes in shock modifications to improve performance and should have some write ups on their site. There are a few other operations that do shock services as well.


    • #504087

      Brake bleeds are done on an as needed basis. Doing it when levers are firm and working properly is generally a practice session.

      Fluid types. DOT and mineral oil.

      DOT does two things, absorb air and moisture, thus only fresh fluid shall be used. DOT MUST be degassed before use! Do this step each and every time to avoid bubbles forming in a week or three… DOT cleans up with water, a mist sprayer will rinse it away if any spills over onto painted surfaces during a bleed.

      Mineral oil, no worries with air and water permeation! No need to degas prior to use. Clean up is simple enough with a mild solution of Dawn and water. Mist sprayers loaded with Dawn and water ease the cleanup and a followup with a water rinse to get rid of soap residue.

      A bleed is a simple process to remove a bubble or a few of em.

      A flush is the complete change of fluid and bleed.

      Carrying a bike on the exterior of your car, beware of rain and interstate speeds. Rain can be driven into the master cylinders right past the seals at high speeds. Bag the bars or transport the bike inside to avoid water contamination. DOT can have serious failures and mineral oil can too. Since this can go unnoticed, the system can be severely damaged overtime from corrosion.


    • #503877

      When you look at fresh pads, they are only 2-3mm of media on a backing plate. They should perform fine throughout the thickness of that media, provided there is no contaminants present.

      My preference is to replace em when the media has only .5-.75mm remaining.

      Another item to look at is rotor thickness. Metallic and ceramic pads tend to annihilate rotors. Same happens on cars! Organic pads tend to make rotors last longer.

      I replaced rotors and pads on a friends bike recently. The rotors were paper thin and sharp as a fresh scalpel. Those were well below minimum thickness for safe operation.

      Inspect the calipers, rotors, hoses and master cylinders at the same time to be sure you have a viable, safe brake system.


    • #503268

      Torque bolt being the rear linkage bolts sensitive to force, measured in NM. That’s what all the shops and riders around me call it, so that’s what I say. If you know a different word for it, I’d be interested in hearing it

      As I use many forms of fasteners daily, I had to ask. Every bolt I have ever used has a torque rating and therefore was confused by the terminology.

      There is a term known as torque to yield. That type of bolt will be immediately replaced with a standard grade 5 or 8 stud to eliminate the issue of failure. These are guaranteed to fail if not torqued to a specific value, then torqued in one or two 90° increments. These are said to not be reusable and are typically replaced.

      Of the many full squish frames I have fabbed over the years, the suspension pivot bolts are pivot bolts, the rocker bolts are rocker bolts.

      What ZipHead posted should get you back on track, lest the bolts were loaded with locktite or similar. That may require some heat to do the deed.

      Good luck, gitter dun!

    • #503113

      What the hell is a “torque bolt”?

    • #502957

      Faulty bladder/gasket and or cover warped… Also check the hose connection for leaks. Key to hydraulic lines is not to ever tighten. Solving a connection leak can sometimes be done by simply loosening and tightening the connection hardware a couple times to shape the metal parts and seat them so they no longer leak.

      Worse case, replace master cylinder.

    • #502628

      Does the spongy return later? First place to check would be the master since debris can cause intermittent issues.

    • #502497

      With wear causing the caliper piston to protrude further to keep the pads in place, the fluid will drop in the master as it now fills the caliper. With that said, the bladder will follow the fluid level in the master.

    • #502443

      The pin hole is a vent for the the bladder gasket to breathe. The bladder gasket is there to separate the outer space from the fluid side in the reservoir and prevent fluid leaking out. The bladder will expand into the fluid space gradually as the brake pads and rotors wear .

      What may be happening is air is leaking past a seal. While air can sometimes bypass a seal, it might not leak fluid due to its viscosity or going under pressure expanding the seal and closing the breach. If the master cylinder doesn’t work properly and causes a vacuum in the system that can pull air in through the piston seals. Again no fluid loss to indicate what is going on. Might need to overhaul the master cylinder to be sure there is no dirt or debris blocking the feed port or return port. The return port is the smaller of the two ports in the bottom of the reservoir.

    • #494309

      SS plusser does me just peachy.


    • #488444

      Firstly, what is the wheel size?

      Secondly, head tube… Is it taper compatible? Being an ’18, I would think so.

      A fork upgrade can be a major improvement. Pike or a Fox etc. can offer some very enjoyable plushness that it sounds as though you are missing.

      The other thing is changing the internal valving in the existing fork to save some coin and make it functional. Years ago, we had to do this with every fork on the market to make em actually work.

    • #485740

      90% of what we do, day in, day out is inherently dangerous yet little is done there. Meanwhile, we all have a boner for a helmet on a bicycle.

      So, I too use a helmet, cause my bike has an attitude.


    • #481933


      Actually look into a decent quality bike from a reputable bike shop. As mentioned above, Wally World employees are dangerous folks when it comes to bikes and such.

      A sandy area lends to the plus bike. 27.5 or 29 x 2.8 or 3.0 would make floating a breeze.

      Now the recommend… I recommend test riding a number of bikes in both 27.5 and 29 to get an idea of what they ride and feel like. Also, if you find one you like, ask if they will rent for a few days or a week. Typically, a shop will do a rental and apply the rental fee to your purchase if you buy it.

    • #481924

      Love my RSD Wildcat. 150f, 140r travel magic carpet ride, indeed.

    • #481922

      A good bleed is an important step but do not forget the rotors… They all have some runout and require truing. I try to keep my rotors +/- .002″ so that the brakes can actually self adjust and lever will be full and solid feeling.

      Spin the wheel and use a flashlight to view the space between the rotors and pads. You might likely see the runout as you do so. A large amount of runout will retract the pistons into the calipers and cause extra travel of both the piston/pad and the lever.


    • #476888

      There will be some engineering and a custom on this line if I do another moderate squish. Seat tube angle, BB height, reach and caster angle will be paid close attention. In the end, moderate weight will follow. And, no, I cannot forgo sliding dropouts.

      Wheelset will be chosen part by part and I will lace em since that is my relaxation going into a build anyway. Don’t want someone else’s cooties on em. That list of components will need some review and study prior to decision.

      Meanwhile, the RSD Wildcat V1 is serving well with 150 front and 140 rear, i45’s and light 3.0’s cause I don’t want more minus tires in the fleet.

    • #476406

      The myth of tubeless unicorn tires! While tubeless is awesome, rim cuts and severe rim damage are things that do occur. Burping some air happens…

      Carrying a pump is one must of many.

      Considerations for pressures…

      27/60/120 TPI.

      Single ply vs. 2 ply.

      Rider weight.

      Rider skill set.

      Terrain. (rocky/rooty or smooth/groomed)

      120 TPI 2.25, 200# rider, 40 to begin with margin to increase or decrease.

      60 TPI, same as above, 35… Being a starting point, give it a go in the neighborhood. Carve some turns, hop some curbs etc. to get a feel for the tires. Add if they feel squirmy or squishy. Let some out if they feel like a basketball or hard as a rock.


    • #476404

      Frankly, I am strung out on my RSD Wildcat. The 2020 model is capable of 29 x 2.6 or 27.5 x 3.0 rubber. Sliding dropouts are standard and allow for some tweaking.  There is nothing like a plusser for loose terrain and it is as plush as it gets. Magic carpet ride!

      Onward with the advise… Test ride the 5010 and any other makes/models before you pull the trigger! Good shops will rent the bike to ya for a few days or a week to give a good shakedown. At the end of the rental, they should be willing to apply that rental fee toward your purchase if you do pull the trigger. Do ride a handful of different before tho’ since it is a large ticket item.

    • #476264

      Frankly, the amazing sound of my bike rolling along is a symphony in and of itself. The Onyx hub is a key component of the  experience. These days, I prefer the ambient sounds that are inherent to the activity and environment.

      During the days of music on the trails, Grado RS-1’s, Grado headphone amp and a Creative Labs HDD based player was pretty awesome. Only used that setup in the backcountry where the next person around was miles away. Admittedly, wasn’t the best idea since bears and big cats call it their front and back yard. Sounded freakin great tho’. Times that have been and gone, long ago.

    • #476263

      Johnny, it would be helpful to know where in the haystack you are. Check in with the loco bike shops for shop sponsored rides as well as community events, etc.


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