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    • #581989

      If you’re standing on the driveside, the BB cups will tighten counterclockwise… Damn coffee I.V. is ineffective today!

    • #581988

      FKPhil, no Caliphate! Unless our bikes started one and didn’t tell us about their doings…

      As for the bike, it may have a few years under its belt but still would be a joy to be out rolling on two wheels. GO for it and have a hella good time riding.

      Note, BB shell and BB are oddly left and right hand threaded. Drive side loosens counterclockwise while the non drive side loosens clockwise… Pedals follow the same rules!



    • #581987


      RD hangers have changed very little over the years. Back out the “b” bolt and try again. As for chain retention, a clutched RD is the answer. They have far more spring tension than non clutched RD’s, in addition, the clutch tends to maintain chain tension and eliminate chain slap that we all know too well.

      What range is the cassette? 36-11 for instance nets a below 1:1 ratio in the lowest end of range. Climbing is hardly impossible with the later wide range stuff. To the LBS and check their bins for used 10 speed stuff that can be had on the cheap! People think they have to buy into the latest to attain “Unicorn” status and discard the 10 speed stuff for 11 or 12 at an alarming rate!

      Climbing with my one speed automatic works and usually a geared rider is what is being passed on the ascent. My one speed automatic has a ratio of 2.2:1 so, not extremely short gears but not excessively tall either. Since I spin a stupid high cadence on the open flats, I can easily taunt a roadie on a bike path! It ends to piss em off being passed by a singlespeed steel plusser!

      Again, LBS’s takeoff bins are a treasure trove of 10 speed parts! At silly low prices, bonus!



    • #581979

      Glad to hep!

      LBS should have or be able to supply the proper puller for the crankset if the bolt does not do this. It was actually common for the ISIS type crankset to have a mounting bolt and insert that doubles as a removal tool.

      Make certain the tool is completely threaded into the crank arm to prevent pulling the threads out of the arm.


    • #581973

      That is an ISIS spindle BB. Proper crank arm puller works similarly to the old time square taper type puller.

    • #581531

      It is likely a 135mm axle, being of the ’06 vintage. Front would have been 100mm.

    • #581390

      Outer ring goes  away, FD limit screw is adjusted to accommodate the 2X and eliminate overrun of the chain. Job done! Same can be done on the low side too.


    • #581227
    • #581225

      Mongwolf, I have ridden with a 70+ year old bloke in Moab. The gent rides like he’s 20 years old and can, and will embarrass the majority of other riders on the trail regardless of their age. Hell, if I make it to that age…

      Lenny is hella kewl peeps but the man can put a hurtin’ on a fella!

    • #580241

      Fatbikes, the ultimate bikejeep…

    • #579760

      The standing excuse being the scamdemic…

      Why not do some upgrades to various components of the bike you have? There are many things that can be done while keeping some coin in the piggy bank for the opportunity to buy a new bike in the future. Keeping an eye peeled for opportunity is necessary these days. Set the budget aside for the moment the right opportunity presents itself cause if ya snooze that bike will be gone and you’ll be to the waiting game once more.



    • #579183

      Wish you the best in getting past that issue, XCridah.

      I chose to have a myocardial infarction in lieu of that issue. Don’t recommend it!

    • #579182

      Following a myocardial infarction and heart surgery, my cardiologist set eyes on my fatbike. Marveling at the massive tires and stupid wide rims, he offered a prescription…

      Ride 4x weekly, 1.5 hours each time.

      The trade was if I kept this regimen, I would be off the hook for cardiac rehab. Doesn’t get better than that!

      Bicycles, the best therapists known to exist! Frankly, I have no weight I can loose.

    • #578651

      Heya TechtoFlow!

      The bike is RSD’s Wildcat V1

      High POE and poorly designed suspensions are likely to give kickback. My green mountain eater does not offer such behavior not becoming a bike of breeding, lol. Keep in mind, while pedaling, if kickback exists, you will experience it regardless of POE. Bottom line, a Huffy hub will not mask or cover kickback any more than an Onyx would amplify it.

      The Onyx sprag has what I refer to as windup. That is the feeling one gets when power is applied. The sprag engages instantly but you will feel as though the chain stretches slightly as you begin to pedal. The blessing is no impact occurs when you lead foot these hubs. The secondary item that is awesome is silence is bliss. Coasting makes no clicks, simply silent function. I have run the Onyx wheels on my pithy singlespeed as well as the Wildcat. Frankly, that is a really bad thing to do! Makes me wanna blow some dosh on wheels… I did notice a performance increase regardless which bike is on Onyx.

      My addiction was perpetuated by my trials bike with 108 point engagement that is a staple in trials competition. After becoming accustomed to little slop to take up, I became spoiled freakin’ rotten.

    • #578569

      TechtoFlow, I can say without any doubt, my Onyx hubs are downright irreplaceable on my Wildcat. Zero slop, same day engagement FTW! Colors, much like CK and i9, as well.

      Quality hubs only augment a full squish…

      Fleetwood Brougham above.


    • #578564

      I think there might be some folks that “benefit” with an egg shaped chainring and some that simply don’t. I’ll stop short of referring to it as a marketing ploy.

      As for it being better with or without SPD, that I will call reaching.

    • #577967

      Thankya, Mark.

    • #577966

      142 will interchange with the bike, drama free. There are plenty of those out there to be had.

      For those that want a quicker engagement, nothing, and I mean nothing compares to Onyx with their sprag driven hub. Silent operation, instant engagement and it is a blessing on the trail.

      The thing to look at is number of engagement points of a given hub. The more, the merrier.

    • #577395

      Def not Banshee…

    • #577394


      I have a preference for being more behind the bar as opposed to towering over it. Partly, this id driven by scoliosis however, I like a playful ride since I ride dirt and enjoy the features nature provides. I rarely ride the seat higher than the bar since it is very uncomfortable. Frankly, it is more of benefit to get into my powerband than ride a roadie stance since that is irrelevant to trials on the trail.


      Bar preference is 10° bacsweep, 6° upsweep for a more trialsy feel. Next bar will likely be 40mm rise, 12° back, 8° up, 800mm width mandatory. So, custom grossly priced bar in the future.

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