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  • in reply to: Annoying bike problems? #577293

    I did this when I was first installing my brakes. The thing that really chafes is I was using a torque wrench and was only at 4-6nM. Eventually that bolt fell out but was easy to replace at Home Depot and I got some spares in case it happens again.

    in reply to: Tubeless tyres will not bead #508935

    Try a tire insert. Minimal weight penalty with rim protection. Was able to seat mine with a regular floor pump.

    in reply to: New 49yr old with basic questions #506513

    I will preface by saying that you should know the difference between pain and soreness. Soreness is good – you are working your muscles. Pain is bad – can lead to real injury.

    So I am heavy but have been riding for 4 years pretty consistently. I have lost no weight but have been in good shape at times. I had been riding to work last year. 50-100 times 13 mile round trip. Now I didn’t lose weight because I was so hungry that I would eat a meal at 3am just to be able to get back to sleep. But I was in good shape.

    Regardless of how much skill you have being in shape makes riding more fun. When you get to the top of the hill and feel good, the ride down is the pay off. If you feel bad, the ride down is just survival.

    Not in great shape now due to some injuries and no reason to ride to work. On a recent ride I was looking forward to a series of seven tabletop jumps to work on. They were on the last trail of the day. I cramped immediately before them. Had I been in shape, I would have done them twice. They were the pay off for a 15 mile ride.

    in reply to: Upgrading Hardtail Frame for light trail riding #506234

    I suggest joining and asking the CAMBA facebook group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1465611037041784/

    Ask the people who ride the same trails as you do. They can probably point you to what is in stock at the LBS too.

    I am also from NEO. Sounds like you ride Hampton/East Rim or maybe Medina/Austin Badger. You may want to consider a full suspension to have a little more differentiation from your current bike. Then you will have the option to ride the hardtail for fitness or sketchiness.

    When I ordered my new frame, I was about to pull the trigger on an On-One Big Dog (steel hard tail with modern geometry) but my wife said that is like your other bikes and convinced me to get a full suspension frame. She was not 100% correct because the geometry of the Big Dog is very different but she wasn’t all wrong either.

    And while it is true that the downhills go by too quickly in NEO, the level of confidence on a FS with pretty good fork and shock is amazing compared to my old entry level hardtail. That said. I still haven’t broken my PMs on the Hampton Hills advanced downhill from 3 years ago, when I was training to go to Jakes Rocks.

    in reply to: Microshift Advent Range #505454

    I already have the derailleur. So the upgrade would be less than $100. I also am not comfortable ordering from eBay. Would rather go with an online bike shop.

    The microshift upgrade does not need to be expensive. I went with the 8 speed with clutch. It is 12-42 and all steel. It is under $100. And cheaper if you have cable housing and chain already.

    I think the new 9 speed stuff has 11-46 cassette. That gets my vote.

    in reply to: Coil shock on trail bike thoughts #503641

    That is the opposite of what I would expect to hear. I would have thought it would have been more supple but blows through the travel to easily.

    in reply to: Tire inserts! #503500

    Running inserts in both tires. Somehow I managed to ding the rear rim. But this weekend I hit a square rock that I didn’t see. I hit the ground faster than I remember. But I am glad I had a front insert for that one.

    I am less worried about holding air. I want to protect the rims.

    in reply to: What to do? Bike ideas. #346381

    Lessons learned from trying to turn an entry level bike into an on-the-cheap legit trail bike.

    I had converted to 1x with wide rims and hefty tires with the intention of adding a dropper post, short stem, wide bar and air sprung fork. But I made a mistake – I forgot to put my new chain on and chewed up the brand new wide-ratio cassette. This lead to a lot of trial and error to fix that problem. Then a little stick jumped up and killed my rear wheel and derailleur. Just as soon as that was fixed my free hub imploded. I have fixed everything but it will never be the bike that I want it to be and I will not be putting that new fork and cockpit on.

    So what did I learn? Inexpensive is good – cheap is bad. It isn’t just chain retention, a clutch derailleur would avoid the chain such issue that I have. There is such thing as too much tire. That last one is hard to tell when buying tires online. The grip is nice but I am so much slower and it is so tiring.

    in reply to: Drive train advice #311060

    Follow up question: I just found out my frame is designed for a 34t ring and a 42t cog. How much am I messing with things if I go smaller on the ring or bigger on the cog? This may make my decision for me.

    I also found that the Alivio is the cheapest 24mm hollowtech crankset with bolt on rings going (not counting questionable stuff on Amazon, Alibaba or eBay) and is in either 96/64 bcd or 104/64 bcd and narrow-wide chainrings are easily found. I think I am going with that, it will be cheaper all in than just the cranks in SLX or Aeffect.

    in reply to: Drive train advice #310875

    Thanks for all the feedback. Really helpful.

    As to range, I’d sooner use a smaller chainring than add weight with a cheap 12 speed. I never use the 30/11 when riding trail on my current bike so that ratio wont be missed if I go with the narrower range 12-42 I’d use a a 28t.

    in reply to: aggressive hardtail frame? #308979

    You could always use a boost frame with a conversion kit on the rear wheel.

    I think the Octame One Prone and NS Eccentric are both still non boost. NS available in steel.

    To answer your actual question:

    1) completely remove axle and freewheel, if necessary. Keep the nut and cone in place on one side so you have a starting point for reassembly.

    2) confirm you have all parts and none are damaged (note: some hubs have different sized bearings and different count on the left and right)

    3) clean and grease

    4) insert axle from back side to plug the hole just to the race then add a good amount of grease this will help the bearings stay in place. Once you have one side done carefully switch sides with the axle

    5) when the second set of bearings are in place gently push the axle the whole way through and install the cone.

    You want it to be tight enough that there is no extra play but not so tight that the wheel won’t  spin.

    I replaced my driver yesterday on a deore hub using this method and my bike is finally up and running. Ready for the season.

    Good luck to you.

    in reply to: Should I Build My Own MTN bike #307821

    I’m about half way through my build and am at the point of second guessing every decision. I know I am going to end up with a better bike than buying a complete build but it is way harder to get every little piece than I thought. And would cost more if i had not found great deals on every part so far.

    It would have been easier to buy a Marin, Polygon or Vitus.

    in reply to: coldest ride day #306409

    I like 20F. Trail is frozen at that point and it isn’t too hard to get the body warmed up. The bigger problem is daylight hours. If trails close the temp doesn’t matter.

    in reply to: Cannondale Trail 8 or Giant ATX 2? #305137

    $500 is a difficult price range. Everything is compromised, which is sad to say because it is a lot of money to spend on one thing. Plus you need helmet, water bottle and maybe some clothes.

    The bike that has piqued my interest lately is the On-One Bootzipper 29 Cross Monster. It is an old-school steel mountain bike with a rigid fork but with drop bars and it will cost about $1,000. For me, it would be a great option for commuting and dipping my toes in cyclocross. There are also some nice trails around that it would work great on (but would be terrifying on the rest).

    I think I only rode new trails on two occasions in 2019.

    West Creek – Parma OH

    This was most satisfying because I helped build it and I was able to share it with my family (kids, wife and parent). It is not technical but built to be sustainable. A great addition to Cleveland riding.

    Jakes Rocks – Warren PA

    Had been before but tried some new-to-me trails. Overall great experience. Had high hopes for Black Snake – a DH only trail but was too white knuckle to truly enjoy on my XC oriented hardtail (did not make a single double and skipped the non-optional drop). The climb back on Devil’s drop was brutal even with my super bailout 22×40 gear combo. I was spent after that. I guess my favorite was Seneca in the downhill direction.

    in reply to: Me: do you have ? LBS: No but we can order it for you. #304966

    I guess I am the only one that feels this way.

    You are mistaking me not liking the situation for not understanding the situation.

    Point: https://www.singletracks.com/mtb-columns/over-a-beer-let-me-order-that-for-you-why-bike-shops-need-to-keep-parts-in-stock/

    Counter point: https://www.singletracks.com/mtb-columns/local-bike-shop-inventory-challenges/

    in reply to: Me: do you have ? LBS: No but we can order it for you. #304883

    <p style=”text-align: left;”>LBS will not be getting my business unless I want custom wheels. They have nothing I need in stock and I can find deals. What else do I have to do on the train to and from work?</p>
    <p style=”text-align: left;”>Can you imagine going to Autozone and asking for parts and they say, “no we don’t have calipers for your two year old Camry.” Blame the industry for too many standards but I can’t be the only person who feels this way.</p>

    in reply to: Prioritization: Frame or Components #303935

    I am currently going the build route myself but before I started that I had been eyeing up Bird Bikes. You can customize the build. I like the Aeris145, which is currently on sale. It supposedly climbs better than their 130 travel bike. https://www.bird.bike/product/aeris-am-145-shimano-slx-xt-12-speed/#configuration. The cheapest version of the SLX build is under $3,000, if my conversions are correct but I would go with the coil shock.

    Since you are already on board with direct to consumer, I would take a hard look at Vitus bikes. The new Mythique tops out at $2,000 and I would probably go for that one since the lower levels use x-fusion suspension and I have heard getting parts and service for those can be challenging in the US. The top level has 140mm of travel F/R and mixed Marzocchi/RockShox suspension. This leaves you with $1,000 of your budget to upgrade when you wear anything out or for gear, helmet, clothes, rack for your car, etc.

    If you want the LBS touch, I’d look at Marin. The suspension is less sophisticated (single pivot) but there is a lot of value across their line up. I’m thinking: Alpine Trail, Hawk Hill and not their crazy bikes like Mount Vision and Wolf Ridge.

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 149 total)