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Manueuvarability – yes, absolutely. I can certainly see that as an advantage.
Is it possible to update to a 1×12 drivetrain and retain a 49mm chainline?
Sunspot……..Sweet lookin’ machine! Whatcha’ ridin?
BTW, my main concern is Pedal Kickback and it’s affect on canceling the suspension to some degree – not on the tech downhills-just switch into a higher gear, although I’d prefer not to have to think about that as the trails I ride are in areas with a constant undulating tech terrain. Every 100 yards or so the terrain changes from flats to uphills and downhills.
While I don’t want to experience this (Pedal Kickback) on the tech flats, I certainly don’t want to experience it on the gnarly tech descents.
I’ve read that you’re more likely to experience Pedal kickback with high P.O.E. hubs.
What has your experience been on the Onyx? I’ve narrowed it down to either the Onyx Vespar or the DT Swiss 240 EXP (36t or 54t).
I’m currently running DHR II’s 27.5×2.3 – 3C Maxx Terra / 3C/EXO/TR – 60 TPI (front and back) on i29 WTB Asym rims. Well, that’s what I had. While I still have that up front, I tried an experiment with my 2.3 in the back and swapped the i29 rim for an i35 Stan’s No-Tubes Baron rim. I now know that an i35 rim paired with a 2.3 tire is not ideal.
I’m in the process of upgrading my bike (2014 Kona Process 134 DL – drivetrain>2×10 to 1×12<, wheelset>probably Stan’s No Tubes Flow MK3 i29 paired with a 2.5 DHF – 3C Maxx Terra / 3C/EXO/TR – 60 TPI up front and a 2.4 DHR II – 3C Maxx Terra / 3C/EXO/TR – 60 TPI in back< and front fork-in that order). That being said, I’ll have to live with my failed rim experiment for now. I’m running 22psi up front and 24 psi on the back tire.
My weight (geared up) would be somewhere between 165-170 lbs.
I ride typical east coast trails (Connecticut). While there is some form of flow in some instances, the trails are predominantly slow rolling tech (80%) with some downhill gnar (20%) thrown in.
Most of the trails are undulating hills – constant up and down (100-200 yards either way) over the course of any particular trail and the climbs, more often than not, are as techie as the flats and downhill sections. I’m an aggressive rider – at least from a technical standpoint – I’m not getting a lot of speed on the type of trails I ride.
Current hubs are: Front: Shimano SLX QR15 / Back: Shimano SLX 142x12mm
I’ll be upgrading the bike in this order: drivetrain, new wheelset and new fork.
The trails I ride are predominantly tech, so, while speed is not a concern, getting into a smaller gear-quickly for the short and constant tech climbs is important. On my current 2×10, this is an immediate action which requires, for the most part, one shift from the large chainring to the granny gear(s).
In regards to a 1x, I’m concerned that I won’t be able to get into an equivalent “granny” gear as quickly as I can with a 2×10.
That being said, on the cassette I’m really only running in the two middle cogs when using the large chainring and the three lowest cogs when using the smaller chainring – 5 total gears – tops.
If I go the 1×12 route, while I’ve looked at SRAM, I’m leaning towards the Shimano XT8100 series or perhaps a mix and match of XT8100 and SLX7100, however, the recommendations you guys have made do warrant a closer look at SRAM.
My current set-up: Chainrings: 24/38t – Cassette: Shimano Deore 11-36 10 spd.
Probable upgrade: Shimano XT8100 Series set-up: Chainring: 28T, 30T, 32T, 34T, 36T / Cassette: 10-45 / 10-51
If I opt for the Shimano 1×12, I’m wondering which combinations/gear ratios will be best for the type of riding I do. I know that, even if I run the smallest chainring (28T), I’m adding 4T on my lower ring (harder gearing for climbs). That being said, on the cassette I’ll be getting lower gear cogs (from my current 36) down to as much as 51 on the XT. So, while I’m pushing harder gearing on the chainring with a 1×12, I do have the benefit of lower gears on the cassette.
Sam James, I see you run a 30t and you’re riding BC. I assume you have more flow, longer tech climbs and longer downhill runs then I’m riding on the east coast. You’re absolutely riding in the MTB promised land!
Some concerns with a 1x, and I’m not sure if their absolutely valid – just an observation:
1) Chain line-cross chain – more friction in the granny gears and therefore a loss of power, particularly when I need it most – on tech climbs. Also, I would imagine that the cross chain will make the rear derailleur work harder and will in general wear down the drivetrain at an accelerated rate.
2) Rear Derailleur – longer and therefore more prone to rock strikes.
3) Loss of top end (not a concern for me) and low end gears.
4) One click shift from large chainring to granny gears and back on 2x – multiple shifts on 1x to get to same gear(s).
The only concern I might have with Dissector’s and Rekon’s vs DHF or DHR II’s is traction.
I ride typical east coast trails (Connecticut). While there is some form of flow in some instances, the trails are predominantly slow rolling tech.
Most of the trails are undulating hills – constant up and down (100-200 yards either way) over the course of any particular trail and the climbs, more often than not, are as techie as the flats and downhill sections.
That being said, I am, like most riders in this area, trying to find the right balance between faster rolling tires and those that offer enough traction for the endless rock gardens and quick and constant sprint climbs.
You suggestions are well taken. A 2.6 front and 2.4 back seem like the best selection. When I do upgrade the bike (1×12 to replace the 2×10, new wheelset and new fork), I’ll absolutely upgrade the Rockshox Revelation to either a Rockshox Pike or Fox 34 (140) or Fox 36 (150).
Bike Nerd, Thanks for your insight, it’s greatly appreciated.
While the bike (Kona Process 134DL) came stock with i23 rims and 27.5 Ardents (2.4 front & 2.25 back), I upgraded to i29 rims a couple of years back and opted for the DHR II’s (2.3 – front and back) at that time.
That being said, my thought was to keep an i29 rim (either the current WTB Asym or switching out to a Stan’s Flow MK3) on the front with a 2.5 DHF and swap out the i29 on the back for an i35 rim (WTB Asym or Stan’s Baron) with the 2.3 DHR II.
Your thorough explanation helped me reach this conclusion: i29 rims w/DHF 2.5 front and DHRII 2.3 on back. I’m assuming that the 0.2 width differential will work.
What I’m not so sure about is whether upgrading from the stock 2.4 to a 2.5 tire will change the geometry and performance of the bike with a 140 travel fork. If it does, I might consider upgrading to a 150 travel fork.
I’m new to this forum and I really appreciate you taking the time.
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