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The +2 links is for the correct position of the derailleur and not necessarily for the amount of growth or digression in chain length.. The correct amount of chain is wrapping the chain along the large chain ring and largest rear cog +2 links ( that is for the derailleur it self).
Three miles…Unless you ran over something and sucked in some serious debris I doubt it…I am thinking a defect…
But as others said..It is kinda hard…But honestly…Three miles…Buddy at the shop should be a bit more compassionate about the whole thing…
How about just servicing the caliper, making sure that both pistons are working correctly and that the caliper is properly aligned to the rotor. Then clean the rotor with 400gt sand paper to remove any glazing that may have occurred over time. If your putting new pads, proper beading will be a must.. If your saving old pads measure them to make sure they haven’t worn to a taper.
"macr88" wroteAwesome, thanks for the info everyone.
I went with sintered this time and so far so good, I’ll update once I get some real rides in.HI Marc
Do not forget to service the caliper.. Many times noise is generated due to an imbalance in the pistons extension. I highly recommend before installing new pads to thoroughly clean the caliper, then to extend the pistons out using the spacer tool provided with the brakes (those red or yellow spacers that came with your brakes). To extend them out safely I usually keep one old pad in the caliper then pump the brakes a few times..With the pistons extended, I then add a few drops of brake fluid to the pistons, then retract it again. Do this a few times to each side of the caliper. This ensures that the brake piston seals are lubed and not dry. They will extend out equally. Do remember to remove any excess fluid around the pistons. Use a cotton swab. Then instal your new pads and following manufactures recommended instructions recenter your caliper. This ensures both pads are applying pressure and the caliper is perpendicular to the rotor. This eliminates pad squeal. Ohh and do remember to burnish in the pads.
Yep those are rivets and I do not think that particular crank can be serviceable. Consider replacing your crank with one that is easily serviceable. Maybe a good used one?
I have a lot of success with Stan’s with little or no issues…
Mind you there are other brands…I guess the whole idea really is about loosing weight on the bike, with the loss of those larger gears which frankly are never used, you also loose on rotational mass.
People get paid on perceived value of that job. Now I know, having worked in the business and moved on to other jobs. I can say yes and no to income and levels that are around now. Sure if the bike shop works on POS bikes that are not worth much and don’t make much on each bike that the owner can’t afford to pay that tech much. At the same time there are shops that have a higher end clientele that do spend more on bikes and have higher value bikes. Saying that…Those higher end bikes require a technician that does have to know more. I feel those technicians should be paid more. As they also have more responsibility in keeping those bikes in proper working order. Higher end bikes require higher skilled people.. Heck I can that most higher end bikes require a tech to be able to take apart suspension (auto techs only replace) and rebuild a fork or rear shock. Bike techs take apart calipers and levers (auto techs only replace). Bikes [b]WILL[b]have more and more electronic components that require a tech to size up, wire and program shifting. Do you think a person who is only paid a minimum wage desires only that??. I don’t.. Heck I remember talking to a few manufacture reps and they told me some of the hourly rates that some shops charge..Some shops are charging over $100 an hour.. Is it fair to pay that tech $10??? I sure don’t…Even when I was an auto technician. I was paid %33 of the shop rate..How about a proposition similar to that??
Everyone forgets that Roubaix is a place in France..How can a bike manufacture own a town name..That is BS..Why doesn’t the town of Roubaix sue Specialized for the use of their town…Or are they paying the town to use that name..Pretty crazy if you ask me for Specialized to be so petty on this..Tell me how this effects their business.
It’s a shame.
But since the first of the Contour cameras I found the shape a bit odd. Odd in the sense that your limited in the ways you can mount it. GoPro from the start got it right by providing the consumer many mounting options. The release of the new GoPro 3 Black with sharp contrast and faster processing just put it over the top i guess.
Try out POC or Leatt…Both fit well.
"maddslacker" wrote[quote="JacksPerson":33g4wchj]… any other bike would have just laid down and gave up 😀
That’s essentially what the rider (me) did. 😆[/quote:33g4wchj]
Somehow I bet there was a bit of:
Ughhh Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh…Ughh Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhh…Ohh..Ughh Shhhhhhhhhh..
Interesting concept, but why not take it a step further…No moving servo. Use Ferro fluid and a metered orifice with a fast acting current controlled electromagnet and a position sensor to take on full control of the dampening…
Just sayin…
This technology already exists…
"mtbgreg1" wroteThanks so much Jeff (& maddslacker)! I am so stoked to officially go full-time with Singletracks, and so happy to be involved in such an awesome community. All of the positive, friendly members here are what make my job so awesome!
….oh, and getting to talk about mountain biking all day helps 😄
Sorry a bit late but Congrats!!
When you go to a single ring up front you may want to consider to purchase a single specific ring.. That does not have ramps on them…That will help reduce the chance of chain derailment (upfront). As far as shifting..You may want to check your chainline as well…Now that you have only one front ring you can optimize the chain path. Also check that your chain and cassette are clean and not excessively dirty..That could make shifting an issue.
As far as chain length is concerned. Wrap the chain around the front ring and the large ring in back..Then before cutting add two links of length…Then cut the chain there.
You should be fine…The older version of Avid brakes that use CPS hardward won’t work…Just double check the distance of the caliper to rotors edge. A minimum clearance of 1.5mm is good…Also I have noticed with some brakes that if you use a washer between the caliper and adapter, it sometimes brings things in better alignment.
I also emailed Answer myself I will try and get a response and let you know what to do.
Cheers
Contact Answer…The folks there are very good and will help you out. They will ask you to measure the steering tube diameter to verify that there isn’t an issue there. But if there is a problem with their part and for what ever reason a defect has fallen through the cracks they will do what it takes to fix the problem.
The older outlaws were made of heavitanium at the time….The Sun Ringle chargers are good for the money…I use them on my DJ bike without issue…Decent choice for a custom set would be XT hubs ( or similar) with a quality rim…I personally love Spank rims…For example the Spike race rim is 28mm and 500grams..I use it on both my AM bike and my DH ride…They also have a Vomax rim which is 23mm and 350grams more for the XC to trail crowd.
Most FF helmets hover around 1000g or less…Carbon are about 800+ grams.
If you do choose one. Find one that fits well, no hot spots on the head and does not rotate when put on and buckled in. Giro has a nice slip on fit, while THE, POC and the new Bell tend to be tapered fit. The opening is slightly smaller than the head space and thus needs the rider to tug on the sides of the helmet while putting it on. I personally prefer the tapered fit as it applies nice even pressure around the whole head and does not move at all. Some brands like POC also include different sized cheek pads. While others like the new Bell Full-9, and the THE Thirty3 have the new Eject helmet removal system (in case of a major accident).
