0 points (view top contributors)
Forum Replies Created
Like others, I can’t stand road shoes and people look ridiculous walking in them. My experience with multiple Shimano models is very good. Last year I purchased a pair of Giro Carbide R II shows that I use on both my MTB & road bikes. Light weight, durable and easy to walk in.
Everyone should make sure their noggin is protected… if there’s even a slight doubt about whether the old helmet is ok then get a new one!
While fat bikes can be ridden anywhere, they really shine when riding sand and snow. They can also provide really good traction on wet rocky trails as well. The downside to fatbikes, as stated above, is the increased rolling resistance. If you’re considering going fat I would recommend purchasing a bike with the capability of running “plus” tires. For my Beargrease, I have an extra set of wheels that I swap out (27.5fat vs 29plus). In fact, I run the bike with 29+ on single track since it’s way faster for me and I’ll only run 27.5F when there’s more than 2-3″ of snow.
WTF are those damn creaks coming from???
Why is it when you leave your LBS your bike shifts like butter but 10min into your ride it shifts like sh!t???January 2, 2021 at 11:13 in reply to: Why a full-sus XC Mountainbike might be a better GravelBike? #576674
Nice looking ride. HT makes a lotta sense esp. for smooth gravel. Let us know how it handles.
Jeff, that used to be true but now I seem to need to log back in every time I access the site regardless of device. If you can fix that.. great. If not, it’s not the biggest thing esp since I now know I need to be logged in to avoid the ads. Thx.
Jeff, thanks for the info. Made me realize I need to be logged in when I access the site.
I feel the same way. Totally get the need for $$ but when the ads adversely affect the experience – especially video ads – I find myself visiting the site less and less.
If you are going “ghetto tubeless” the inability to seat the bead is very likely because of the tape job and not the tires. But before I would mess with the tape I would apply dish soap all along the inner edge of the rims as @enduroexpert suggests and then, before blasting with air, make sure that there are no obvious gaps between the tire and the tape. One other tip: When I’m having issues I usually pull the edge of the tire as close to rim by hand (all round the tire on both sides) before pumping up. I do this after applying soap so that the tires will have that soapy lubrication underneath and are much more likely to seat once you blast the air.
I just have so much more fun on a full squish. The bikes are clearly more comfortable – and forgiving – than a HT for rowdier trails. That inspires additional confidence to take on more tech and bigger drops. With that said, I have the utmost respect for those that ride with less, esp. those on a rigid singlespeed, where line choice, balance and skill become paramount.
It’s never too late – i.e. you’re never too old or out of shape – to ride! I’ve come across guys who are in their 70’s riding very demanding trails. You just need to give your body a chance to adapt.
When you say “I can’t emphasize how much it hurts to sit on the bike” it makes me think one of two things: either you have saddle sores and/or your glutes are very sore. The former is a tissue issue and is best addressed by wearing a chamois under your shorts (or at least an anti-chafing cream). The latter is a muscle issue which will improve over time but in the short term I’d suggest taking a couple of Advil. It’s important to address this issue as riding comfort is critical. It’s one thing to feel discomfort on a big climb or riding a tech section – that’s expected – but it’s entirely something else to have discomfort just getting on the bike!
Riding is great but it’s most enjoyable as part of a (generally) healthy lifestyle. As @bikenerd stated start slow (think easier effort and shorter distances) and work you way to slightly harder/longer rides as you become more comfortable. I’d higher recommend tracking your rides with your phone as it will be gratifying to look back and actually see the progress you’re making.
I am also a big proponent of cross-training. It doesn’t having to be complicated but going for walks/hikes – especially in hilly areas – will help build your fitness. And I think everyone should do strength training at least twice a week. Doing 3-4 sets of squats (using just your bodyweight) and deadlifts (with light dumbbells) will work wonders within a month.
Let us know how it goes.
As others have stated, if you are going to invest in your drivetrain you should absolutely go 1x. And given your concerns re: the granny gear go 1×12 and opt for a smaller chain ring. Anyone that’s been riding for 5+ years had a 2x set up. I don’t know of anyone that has ever gone back to a 2x set up. 1x can up/down shift multiple gears at a time. Both SRAM & Shimano have solid options. This is one you don’t need to overthink.
As @Sunspot indicates there are numerous factors that a rider should take into account when setting up tire pressures. In my experience the most important are the following: tire width, rider weight (geared up), terrain, ride style and personal preference. (To me, rim width really only comes into play if your tire width is on either end of the outer limits of what is recommended for your rims, i.e. too narrow or too wide).
I’m ~185lbs geared up and I ride fairly aggressively. If I take my my trail bike (Maxxis DHF 29×2.3 and Maxxis Forekaster 2.35 20psi) to a technical trail I’ll typically set my tire pressures @ 19-20psi (front) and 23-25psi (rear). Very different than if I were riding my plus bike with 3.0″ tire width @ 10f/13r.
You’re basically trying to find the right balance between maximizing traction and comfort (think lower psi) while protecting your rims and decreasing rolling resistance (think higher psi). It’s typically better to start on the higher end and then reduce bit by bit until either you feel like you are “bottoming out” the tire when you hit hard (or the tire burps) or it feels a bit squishy when you corner hard.August 20, 2020 at 10:11 in reply to: Why a full-sus XC Mountainbike might be a better GravelBike? #503189
That’s exactly what I was thinking. Was checking out a few of these bikes but given the prices I’m gonna put some more miles on my Kona before considering a new rig. But thanks for posting the topic. Really makes you (at least me) re-think what a capable MTB should/could be. And the GKs you recommended have far exceeded my expectations. Happy shreddin’!August 18, 2020 at 18:51 in reply to: Why a full-sus XC Mountainbike might be a better GravelBike? #502955
Seems the lines between XC and gravel bikes get more and more blurry. From my experiences thus far I think it comes down to the (primary) surface you’re riding and your comfort level. I’ve only done 1 true (smooth) gravel ride (50 miler) with this set up. For me, I didn’t miss the drop bars at all but I sure as sh!t missed riding clipless (I forgot to swap the pedals so I had to ride flats. Ugh!) Even with the suspension “closed” you still get a much more comfortable ride, albeit it probably comes with some loss of efficiency. And although it adds additional weight I also prefer having the dropper as you can really let loose on the downs and it’s of obvious benefit if you ride singletrack. The versatility of the XC w/ gravel tires really allows you to ride anything from pavement to (less technical) singletrack. It’s the latter that has me the most intrigued and how I’ve been riding this set up. What’s cool is that if you want to ride something more technical it’s just a quick swap of the tires.
IMO, it’s not worth investing in trying to upgrade a bike like that, assuming it’s even possible. As Jeff said, take it out to (easier) trails and have fun riding it. If you wind up really getting into the sport you’ll eventually find the limits of the bike, i.e. things will start breaking. Then you’ll know it’s time to buy a real MTB. FWIW, that’s also how a number of us got started. Knew it was time for a real MTB after the 2nd time I broke my rear axle.
I’d be shocked if there’s only one brand that fit. You can always contact Trek to be certain. With a dropper all you’re looking to do is get the seat out of your way and/or lower your center of gravity as you move around the bike esp. on more technical downhill sections. You may well find the 120mm drop sufficient.