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  • California is indeed expensive. I’m in the foothills of the Sierras between Sacramento and Lake Tahoe. Personally, I’m thinking about trying to talk my wife into retiring to Sedona, Arizona. ūüėČ ¬†Honestly, it’s a tough question to answer. There is epic riding all over the western U.S. (and the east coast doesn’t suck either). ¬†ūüôā

    Good thread. I agree that it’s not necessary to spend $5K for a good bike. Of the brands/bikes mentioned thus far, I’d probably steer toward one of the Cannondale Habits (or Bad Habits). Does¬†Cannondale make the¬†best bikes on the market? Perhaps not, but I think they make very respectable¬†bikes that represent a really solid value for the price point. My current go-to bike is a fully rigid Cannondale Trail SL 29er singlespeed. Love it.¬†BTW, REI currently has a couple models of the 2016 Cannondale Habit on sale. The link goes to the Habit Alloy 5 (for just $1650) but there’s at least one other Habit on sale too. For that price, you can buy two. ūüėČ

    in reply to: What was your first mountain bike? #203494

    It depends on your definition of mountain bike. Long before that term even existed, I was a kid riding bikes through¬†the New England woods in the 1970s. But after the term “mountain bike” was being used by manufacturers,¬†the first bike I had that was marketed that way¬†was probably my 1992 Specialized Stumpjumper. Steel, fully rigid, purple. That was a great bike. ūüôā

    in reply to: Application Opens for Pearl Izumi Ambador Program #201653

    Very cool indeed. I’ve been a Pearl Izumi fan for decades. ūüôā

    Cool. Thanks for sharing that. ūüôā

    in reply to: what the hell happened? (I got fat again) #201651

    You said “Strangely enough the last real ride I attended was my first ever group ride and I had an absolute blast!” but then you asked for advice. So, here’s my advice.¬†Rather than¬†thinking of the obstacles to overcome, just keep thinking of the way you felt on that ride. Also remember that you’ll be a better husband and father if you’re happy. Sometimes doing things for yourself isn’t selfish.¬†Get back on the horse, and ride on brother.

    in reply to: stocking stuffers #201226
    in reply to: Bike grips with knife hidden inside #201225

    I just ride with a shotgun. Mossberg 590 Mariner Tactical.

    in reply to: Gloves or No Gloves? #201224

    I always ride with full finger gloves. I swore by Pearl Izumi for years, then I found Fox which seem to last longer. However, now I tend to just buy cheap work gloves at Home Depot. Modern work gloves have many of the same features as biking-specific gloves and are much cheaper.

    in reply to: MTB chain keeps breaking #201223

    As others have said, definitely check for chain stretch and check the cassette for wear. As Zyante says, chain line is critical so it’s generally best¬†to be on the biggest¬†ring when shifting to the smallest cog. As to derailleur alignment, I still do it the old-fashioned way. Put the bike on a stand and pedal the cranks with one hand while you shift the rear derailleur with the other hand. Then adjust the shifter cable tension slightly and do it again, watching and listening for how quickly and smoothly it shifts to the next cog. If it’s worse, adjust¬†the shifter¬†cable tension the other direction. Repeat ad nauseam, although it shouldn’t take long to find the sweet spot. I prefer to do this between the two cogs I use the most.

    in reply to: The pluses of 29er over 27.5 #201222

    fsherfy said “Still new here could someone please ¬†explain boost compatible to me. I l think it has to do with wider wheel hubs. I.e. Longer axles. ¬†But not sure. Thanks.”

    Yes, that’s correct. Boost is a relatively new standard that came around due¬†to the plus-size tires (29+, 27.5+) that came out in recent years. It means that the frame (or fork) is wider between the dropouts. Wider spacing allows for wider hubs and wider rims without sacrificing wheel strength. With¬†traditional dropout spacing, ever-wider rims meant decreasing wheel strength due to the angle of the spokes. By going to wider dropouts/hubs, the rims can be quite wide without compromising strength. So, if you’re in the market for a new bike and think you might want to try out¬†plus-size tires, then getting a frame and fork with Boost spacing is the way to go.

    in reply to: optimal tubeless psi #201221

    Good thread. I tend to follow the Stan’s guidelines too. One possible way to go lower and still avoid problems would be to use the Schwalbe Procore system. I’ve been thinking about it for a while but my current rims are just a little too narrow so it would require a new set of wheels for me. ūüôĀ

    in reply to: 27.5×3.0 #200348

    I’m a huge fan of 29″ wheels. However, one of the cool things about 27.5+ bikes is that many¬†will accommodate 29″ wheels without a significant change in geometry. The reason for this is that the 27.5+ tires have a taller profile than regular 27.5 tires so the actual outer diameter of the¬†tire is pretty close to 29″. On the flip side of that coin though is the fact that the 27.5+ frame should have Boost spacing so installing standard 29″ wheels (i.e., without Boost spacing) ain’t going to work. Just more food for thought. Oh, and I agree¬†that 2.8″ is probably a better choice than 3″ for versatility.

    in reply to: Picking a New Bike #200347

    Pivot Mach 6 is certainly a great bike, and there a a couple of models on sale right now at Competitive Cyclist. They’re probably only available in a limited number of sizes, but this time of year there are always killer deals to be had.

    in reply to: Best one-quiver bikes for Front Range, CO #200346

    Since you already said you like it, it might interest you to know that Jenson has several models of the Intense Tracer on sale. The link goes to the model that is closest to your price point but there are others on sale too.

    in reply to: Which way to go? #200342

    I vote for the hardtail too. Diamondback and Cannondale both make pretty decent inexpensive hardtails. In fact, REI currently has a couple models of the Diamondback Overdrive on sale. The link goes to the Pro model, but they also have the Comp on sale.

    in reply to: The pluses of 29er over 27.5 #199944

    Bikerboy, it looks like the one you linked to ( has 142 mm spacing (see Technical Specs > Frame). However, boost (plus-size) spacing is 148 mm, so this is not boost-compatible.

    in reply to: Why Should I Upgrade To Discs #199943

    I have mechanical disc brakes on one bike and hydraulic disc brakes on another (both hardtails, both singlespeeds) and the hydraulic disc brakes definitely require less effort.  So, while I would agree that hydraulic disc brakes provide more stopping power for a given amount of effort, you can certainly get similar stopping power from mechanical disc brakes but it requires more effort.

    in reply to: Is This a Good Beginner Mtb? #199942

    I agree that cheap full-suspension bikes are to be avoided. However,¬†I’ve gotta say that I’m not a fan of buying used mountain bikes unless you’re either getting it from a local bike shop (LBS) or you can inspect it very carefully before you buy and you know enough to have your inspection be meaningful. There are several manufacturers that make inexpensive¬†hardtails¬†that are of excellent quality for the money.

    in reply to: 29 or 27.5 inch tires? #191210

    I agree that after riding a 29er, 27.5 can feel small. But, as several folks have said here, it depends how tall you are and what kind of riding you do. I’m 5′ 11″ and I really like my 29er hardtail for cross-country style riding. For shorter riders, I think a 29er can be a stretch. For all-mountain riding, the difference isn’t as clear to me. I recently¬†ran across this page that has a pretty good discussion of the pros and cons of various mountain bike wheel sizes:¬† Happy trails!

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