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Always liked the looks of their multi-tools.
Great looking tools. Aparently the b17 comes with a chaintool, but the product shots does not show it. Where did they hide it?"Tulbagh" wrote
If there is anything you would change on the Merida Big Nine tfs 900 what would it be. I’m looking to upgrade my bike a little but do not know where to start.
Any advice appreciated.
That’s a pretty nice bike. How does it ride? What are you unhappy about with the stock parts?"trek7k" wrote
Just saw this on CNN:
Does anyone know what race this was? Apparently it was 20 days long and took place in China. From the video it looks like the guys are riding pretty nice mountain bikes but all the footage is of them on the road.
Not a race but a trip undertaken by a recent Chinese graduate to challenge himself riding from Wuhan, Hubei to Lhasa in Tibet. This video revealed more:
Any kind souls can advise on manualing?
I am riding a 19" hardtail, would downsizing to a smaller frame make it easier?
Is it the skills or the frame size? Now if I were to get a 29er, would that mean I can forget about manualing? I had watched countless Youtube videos & still can’t manual 😳April 25, 2012 at 03:04 in reply to: Can anyone suggest a non-towball/non roof rack bike rack? #108774
I love the Saris T-Bones; perform double duty!
Its a hitch rack as well as a storage solution indoors.
Would love to find something similar at a much lower price though, 😃
No stickers for overseas fans?! 😳"trek7k" wrote
Thanks for the recs, looks like the Topeak bags are pretty solid.
uekiya, how much are you able to fit in the Pro Pack (Small)? Ideally I’d like to fit a tube and mini tool and maybe even my Topeak Race Rocket mini pump (it’s small).
trek7k, I was recently looking for a seat bag / mini pump combination that would allow the pump to fit inside the bag. In the end, I bought a Topeak Aero Wedge (medium) & a Lezyne HV Drive. The Race Rocket was in my consideration too, but the Lezyne was available & cheaper at my LBS.
The HV fitted snugly in the bag with 1×26" tube, mini tool, levers & key pouch. Though it touches the zip line, I was able to zip up easily without stretching the zip. This is without expanding the bag via its additional zipper yet 😃
So yeah, the Race Rocket should have no problem fitting in."Jared13" wrote
Oh man, I didn’t even realize they always tightened towards the front. I just remember the righty-tighty/lefty-loosey thing was reversed for the left pedal.
If he put some pink streamers on, would that even it out? 😆
Just remember "Back-Off!" 😃
Anyone got any experience or advice regarding the Marin Palisades Trail 29er?
Is this liner material similar to those packing material that came with my electronic equipment such as a DVD player for example?
Really envy you guys with the land to hose down your steeds before wheeling into the garages. I stay in an apartment & even when it was a hot dry ride, I would still have to hose down & do a quick wipe before storing indoors. Darn I wish there is a way of quickly cleaning the mud/dirt/sand etc from the tires, much like a chain cleaning machine gadget but designed to attach to clean the tires. Any DIY ideas? 😆
Nice idea regarding the gorilla tape. Been using an old inner tube secured with duct tape as a guard for some months & it is standing up well to the abuse. Wonder if the gorilla tape alone performs as well as the old tube? At least the rubbers are absorbing the slapping chain noise well.
I am ready to try some spandex.
Found out that there are cycling specific ones & there are those for triathlon.
Now what are the differences here & which would be better for MTB’ing?
Loved the idea of building stuff & the real satisfaction it brings when the end product really works!
Great job on the various bike racks showcased. But I would like to tap your experience in a different kind of build. Anyone successfully built an indoor wall-leaning stand that can accommodate 2 bikes – one on top of the other? Something like the Saris Bike Bunk or the Delta Michelangelo or Minoura’s Gravity Stand?
Its a dilemma when deciding how to carry stuff when out riding!
Hydration Bag – carries all the stuff you need & don’t interfere with your riding if you got a good bag & packed it well. But just for a short rumble through the neighborhood, the backpack doesn’t make any sense.
Saddle Bag – Keeps your back cool & stores your essential. But there is always the nagging fear that it unzips itself or loop itself off the seat rail!
Fanny pack – Always on you, no fear of dislodging without your notice. But can get hot & bothersome.
Storage Bottle – Keeps essential stuff & is water-proof but monopolize one bottle cage.
So you see, I have yet to find the ONE that stores them all!"element22" wrote
A lot of it has to do with the chainline….Some are better than others. With most FD’s though it is a matter of proper set up and know which gear combinations you can use and which you cannot (not suppose to). In a 3 ring set up it is important to set the limit screws correctly… The middle ring is adjusted solely on cable tension.
The best method to adjust the FD is to have the lower limit set properly so that when you drop into that ring it drops quickly and has about 0.5-1mm spacing from the chain and the cage of the FD (when in the biggest rear cog). Do this adjustment with the cable off.. Then set the upper ring the same way with the limit screw…..
Before attaching the cable, turn in the tension adjuster on the shifting pod all the way in and then 2 1.5 turns out. Then attach the cable but don’t pull it tight when tightening it down.
At this point you can start adjusting tension…Usually do it with a quarter turn on the adjuster at a time in or out depending where it is rubbing…..have the bike in the air and crank while shifting into the middle ring…If it takes to long or not shifting turn out the tensioner quarter turn at a time…If it goes into the middle but then the inner cage is rubbing then there is too much tension (turn the adjuster in)…
This should get you going well.
With a 2X system its a matter of just setting the limits properly.
Thanks for the detailed explanation.
I had pretty much done all these from instructions culled from the videos I found online.
After various attempts, I found that the position of the FD on the seat tube determined the success of the tuning. Anyone has any suggestions in determining the precise placement? i.e. in moving the FD up & down the tube, how do you determined the best position? Placed too low & you risk hitting the big ring; too high & you can’t shift higher gears etc.
Thanks in advance. Happy riding.
Glad to see this discussion thread since this is what I am looking into for the next bike.
I am currently riding a 3×8 Giant Yukon disc ’09.
So far I have found it adequate for my riding, but tuning the FD is a major headache!
I have yet to succeed in eliminating the chain rubbing the FD cage at any gear ratio!
Will a 2×10 logically eliminate tuning problems since there is one less ring?
I belong to the "simple is better" side & would stick to hardtails, mechanical disc & lesser gears if it can achieve the same outcome with lesser headaches! Afterall, I’d rather spend 2 hrs riding than 2 hrs trying to get the rubbing chain off the FD.
I am eyeing the 2011 Jamis Durango 3 that is running SRAM X7 3×10; hope to snag a bargain later in the year; or would it be better to run this in 2×10?
Been a while …
This fresh video will bring on the "ooohh" & "aaaahhhs" again …
Thank you guys for the answers.
I have a better understanding on this issue now.
Just as I suspected, its much more worthwhile & easier to just get a disc version right from the start. But the only problem now is that the mech disc are usually crappy & I still need to spend to change to the Avid BBs. So now I am eyeing for good deals.
Maybe it was 30-38 Kmh instead …. 😏