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Milan // ITALY
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I have a Jeffsy 27 CF. I generally like it, but i’d point out that the bike really comes alive when pointed downhill, and going fast. I generally ride in really steep terrain so it works out for me, but if i was going to move to a flatter area i’d almost certainly look to swap it for something a bit snappier. As for the value and customer support i’ve been happy.
I’d agree with BZ202. I grew up in MA and was always perfectly happy with an xc bike. Modern short-travel trail bikes are more than sufficient, and are snappier on the rolling hills than a bike with more travel. There are some places in MA that have some technical stuff, like Vietnam, but i think with a modern geo and short travel you’re more than covered. I always rode 26in wheels, so i’m not sure what new size is better. One thing to keep in mind is that trails are generally quite rocky, so a 29er might help avoid excessive pedal strikes. That being said, if you want the stumpjumper, it’s still fine, just a lot of bike for the trails. My ’99 stumpy fsr xc which lives at my parents’ has 26in wheels and 80mm of travel front and back!
Hey guys, you have all kind of missed the idea. Luckily, i can shed some light on this. This is not a new idea. I haven’t tried it yet, but I have some friends who have. You can strap skis or a splitboard (split, as split skis) to either side of your top tube, this bike just seems to have an integrated hook in the frame and some sort of rack attachment. I have seen it donewith a trailer, which is probably more comfortable.
Keep in mind we are talking about touring skiing, or ski mountaineering. We are not using the bike itself as a shuttle to the top of the ski run, we are using it to get to wherever you would otherwise park (a pass, or up to wherever the road ends/snow starts), then skinning up the mountain with the skis on our feet. Especially in the spring when in the valley it is warm and the roads are fine, you can pedal up as long as you want, then park the bike and skin up. Do your peak, camp, sleep in a hut whatever, ski back down and ride your bike home. For me it seems like a cool way to eliminate the sometimes long drive, and make the approach part of the adventure.
It is not meant for normal alpine skis or snowboards. Scott also makes touring skis- so they are obviously doing a bit of marketing. The coffee maker- why would you not want a hot espresso while you’re getting ready? 🙂
July 25, 2018 at 3:08 pm in reply to: Returning to this awesome ass hobby but overwhelmed with options #244110
I’d agree with you that an aggressive HT is the best choice. You mentioned some really nice rigs. And for 2 grand you can get it with solid components. Since you’re a big guy, why not go for big wheels? Things that you’ll want: dropper post, solid fork (you’ll need stanchions at least 34mm), aggressive tires (such as maxxis high rollers). Things that I wouldn’t care about: carbon, weight savings, 1x (although it will probably have it, whatever),.
True you can get a passable full-sus from a direct order company or a very basic entry level for around that, or even get a used bike with reasonable components from a few years ago. May be that it works out great, but just as well there may be issues.
I am based in northern Italy, and do the same sort of rides as you. I have a YT jeffsy 27 CF1 that I’m happy with. If I had to re-buy it, i’d get the 29er version, precisely because of the long days and more xc-type rides I sometimes do. I precisely wanted to get away from an xc-feel i had before with big wheels, but now i sometimes miss it. But I’ve done plenty of big days on mine and it’s been great.
During big climbs in the alps, I am very glad i don’t have a enduro bike. Already the Jeffsy is not super happy with steep climbs. Not really the weight, as it’s light, but the travel and the geometry don’t make it supper snappy. The pedal platform or lockout on the rear shock definitely help with this. Overall it’s always a trade-off, but i’m happy with where i am on the uphill-downhill scale.
Another thing to keep in mind is that with my 150mm travel jeffsy, i can ride anything my buddies ride on their enduro bikes. The difference is that I maybe wouldn’t ride at race speed, but for me this is no problem because i don’t race. I have ridden proper DH trails, and while i’m not going to win any races, i feel like i can ride at a good speed and it handles everything well, and it’s loads of fun. For the epic, we’re talking about seconds difference on the descents, but hours of a more comfortable uphill.
Tires in mountain biking area pretty big topic, from widths, to tread patters, to compounds. You didn’t give a lot of background on why you didn’t like your previous tire, but here are some tips/things to thinking about:
-You can go wider without necessarily getting a lower rolling resistance. Nowadays, you can by a 2.2in or even wider with a fast, xc-style tread. A tire like this will roll fast, but will be able to provide increased compliance and grip. On easy trails, something like this would be sufficient, and wouldn’t slow you down too much on hardpack or paved surfaces. Of course, if you don’t mind resistance, feel free to get a more aggressive tread pattern (e.g. bigger lugs).
-Think about different front and rear tires. On a budget setup, having a slightly beefier, more aggressive front tire, for braking and turning, and a slicker, fast rear tire can make a ton of difference. I ran a (for me at the time) beefy conti trail king up front with a narrowish/slick nine line from WTB on a cheapish hardtail, and was really happy with it. Party in the front and business in the back.
-Think about the compound/puncture protection, etc. A slight upgrade to a folding tire, as compared to a wire bead, will be lighter and generally ride nicer, with no downsides (besides a few bucks). Also, a softer compound up front can be gripper, and you can run a harder compound in the rear for more wear resistance. Also, unless you racing, getting a version of a tire with a solid puncture protection is definitely worth it. They often won’t be any more expensive, just a bit heavier than the race version
As for specific tires, I’d suggest just picking manufacturer that you like and has a wide range, and getting the appropriate tire in that series. I personally like Maxxis or the German brands (Schwalbe and Continental), as well as WTB. This way, you can focus in on what you really need, instead of having to compare across different product lines and get confused.
hi dom, you yea can, but that is maybe a bit too much. All things being equal, it will make your bike slacker and raise the bottom bracket. So while you are looking for a bit more travel on the way down, the higher BB does not help with cornering. So it’s a trade-off. Where it is not a trade-off will be climbing- the slacker angles (especially with the fork locked out, as when open the sag somewhat offsets this) and high bb make for a poorer climbing machine. You call, go for it if you feel like it!
a) yes, you can and should go slower. Or it could be a matter of suspension (maybe you are running the fork and shock too hard, rebound too fast). There are techniques like squashing (or more advanced: scrubbing) to limit your air, but they are both way too advanced for you. So yes, I would say going slower is the first step.
b) If you end up in the air by accident, then you are already off to a pretty bad start. If you want to “send” something (catch some air off an obstacle) on purpose, it is good to have your weight properly shifted and suspension properly loaded. So finding yourself in the air all of a sudden, it is likely you are going to be off-balance already. If this does happen, I doubt you would be able to recall any advice in the split second before you hit the ground. Just try to hang on and land rubber-down 🙂
c) I have been riding a long time, but also just switched from a regularly riding 29er hardtail to a 27.5 fs. Keep in mind the bikes will ride in different ways, i needed some time to get used to it as well. Generally, it is the common perception that the smaller-wheeled full suspension bike is more fun. A 29er will roll over things in a straight line better, but the 5010 will be somewhat easier to maneuver and be more “flick-able”. More experienced riders like to get their bikes in the air, and be able to move them around. Check out Danny Macaskill riding is 5010 (for example, wee day out) and tell me that doesn’t look like loads of fun. Still, if you think your 29er is more fun, then by all means stick to what you like!
Try taking a skills course, and build up your experience and bike-handling. YouTube videos from places like GMBN also offer good tips. For example, you may not be able to bunny hop after watching the video, but it will give you a lot of good insights on how your weight should be shifted when you want to get over an obstacle.
I remember vietnam trails being the most challenging in the Boston area. Closer to the city are places like middlesex fells and lynn woods. No really good climbs around that area, though, at least by any reasonable standard.
September 22, 2017 at 3:51 am in reply to: Specialized enduro comp vs yt industries Capra al comp #225379
The capra can climb, but it is not really an enjoyable bike on the climbs. I have a jeffsy 27, and in the slackest setting it only climbs well when the shock is on pedal or locked. If you want to ride xc-type trails, I prefer the shock on the pedal setting- also, in the slack mode the effectively slacker seat tube angle and low bottom bracket can be an annoyance. Or you can set up the bike in the high setting, and ride trails with the shock open. I guess my point is that it is really nice to have adjustability, and while the capra can certainly ride anything, it is a bike you climb just to get the to top, and xc trails may not be the most fun. It is really designed to descend. I would suggest a bike that has some adjustable geometry, that you can set in a fully open/slacker setting for Enduro, and and a higher/shorter travel setting for xc trail. So the YT Jeffsy with the flip chip, or the Canyon strive with the shapeshifter (not sure if this one is available yet in the US).
I’ve been running a 30t absolute black chainring for a few weeks, with a sram 10-42 cassette. I can’t speak to the knee problems, but generally I’ve like it. I have the feeling that it increases the gear range a bit, however probably more true for those who climb with a lower candence- you can basically push a “harder” low gear, because it’s really only hard during the downstrokes. So yea, I think it’s an interesting pice of gear, but not a life changer.
If I were you, I’d be careful buying used. It is always somewhat of a risk, especially if you don’t know exactly what you’re getting. I realize some people find killer deals, but at this price range I’m not sure the savings are worth it. But more than that, a 2010 full sus will, even in the best of cases, probably have some dated geometry and tech. Not that you can’t still have fun with it- I still ride my ’99 stumpjumper full sus once a year and have a blast on it, but it’s nothing like my modern all-mountain rig.
My Suggestion would be something like this: https://www.commencalusa.com/meta-ht-am-origin-650b-yellow-2017-c2x21027596. The slack geometry will really let you shred, and 140mm up front will do a lot. Components won’t be great, but they’ll be in perfectly fine working order, and you won’t have to waste money or time replacing parts right away.
Just my 2cents.
Don’t worry, man, just bring that thing back to the store and have them work it out. That’s the advantage of buying at the store and not online. You can troubleshoot a clicky drivetrain for hours, but this is a new bike so it’s up to them.
Fear not, you probably don’t have a “Lemon”. If you do, I’m sure it’s under warrently from Santa Cruz.
Hey John, I’m from NE and i definitely always enjoyed riding there. But I’d definitely urge you to take a trip out west. The riding is generally much more epic, you’ll come back home with a very different perspective.
I think you have a somewhat valid point that if you can ski in NE, you can ski anywhere. This is mostly because there are such poor/icy conditions in the northeast. In the rockies or the alps, even the iciest day feel like packed powder to us. Still, there is generally much steeper stuff, and the mountains are so much more impressive; there is a whole word of backcountry skiing that hardly exists in NE. Also with mountain Biking. Yes we have a lot of rocks and roots, some tight trails, but even the biggest mountains in Vermont are basically hills. I love Colorado, there are both incredibly epic rides, and you can find a lot of easy stuff. This is probably less the case in the Alps: less purpose-built stuff and in general much steeper terrain. Every time I ride in the alps I am surprised by how hard it is.
Enjoy NE, but I definitely urge you to try some other regions. Happy Trails!
I’m moving to northern Italy next week, so I have a bunch of ideas for (long) weekend trips, all relatively close by:
- Finale Ligure
- Sella Ronda
- Val di Sole
- Lake Garda
- Exploring trails closer to home around lake como and ticino
- Kingdom Trails (VT)
I agree with stumpy above about the bike and skills. I also have a bike from 99′ which is stashed at my parents’ house and I take out when I visit. A new bike may be a bit faster, I can do the same things on my old bike. Practicing a track stand is unnecessary, however. I would rather you "slow-race". Pick a point a little ways away, and try to ride as slowly as possible towards it. The type of balancing required is more similar to that used when riding trails. You can also challenge people who are around your same level.
I am, however, going to come out and say what everyone glossed over or chose to avoid. At 6,1 255 you are obese, of which I am sure you are aware (BMI of 33.6). Mountain biking is an athletic sport which requires you to make use of your weight, shifting and throwing, up and down, etc. You simply have far to much of it, and this will prevent any type of progress. Weight isn’t the only factor, but a rider at 145 lbs. will always be faster than an seriously overweight/obese rider. Hopefully riding will help you get in shape, but it is likely much more an issue of diet and lifestyle. Quitting sugary drinks will have much more of a positive effect on your riding than a new full-suspension rig will. In the meantime, ride fire roads to get in shape, without subjecting your body and your poor bike to the abuse.
P.S. also, you don’t have to become a roadie, but maybe try to integrate riding into your lifestyle, such as riding to work.
Nice! XC skis are the snowy cousins of the xc mountain bike. Ski touring / mountaineering skis are more like enduro bikes. Definitely two sports which really complement each other.
This is definitely no the experience I’ve had. Germany and Switzerland are two whole countries, you cannot make such a broad generalization.I’m not familiar with the mtb scene in Nuremberg (I live in Frankfurt), but I find it very difficult to rent serious mountain bikes. The rental business in general is more tailored to city bikes/touring bikes. Even closer to the trails, to get a proper mtb you have to do a shop demo. Now I can’t speak for Nuremberg, but my experience in various spots in Germany would lead me to believe that this is also the case there. The only time I’ve seem real mtb rentals is in the alps, or one of the nascent trail centers in the Mittelgebirge (smaller mountain ranges).
In Switzerland you may be able to find a bit more, because in general you’re often close to the mountains, but it can also be slim-pickings. One time while visiting friends in Neuchatel, Switzerland, we were forced to rent mountain bikes from Swiss railways. I remember them being rigid and with rock-hard tires. It was still a fun day out. Agai,n trail centers or any lift-serviced mountains with a bikepark will definitely have bikes to rent, although the cost will be astronomical (Switzerland is crazy expensive).