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free bump man, if that was my little bro’s size he would have a new bike this week.
Shimano Alivio thumb shifters will fix those issues you’re having shifting. I second Race Kings.
Xt’s for sure. Nice wide platform and super bearings.
I really wanted a Xen in the grey/blue, how low will you go on it?
Smear mud on both sides of the rotor in no more than a half inch wide swath. Then do a break-in one your brakes: 20 easy stops to walking pace, 10 medium stops to walking pace. You’d be amazed what that will clean up. Disks are made to get crap on them, if they over heat they will slightly glaze the pads and quit working correctly.
Yup, dust cover. Everything that actually pushes back is on the other side.
Bring what you would normally bring to ride food wise, plus one emergency gel. Grab one of these from your LBS: [url:7pt6r2yi]http://www.amazon.com/Hutchinson-Fast-Air-Tubeless-Sealan/dp/B004RJ5Q7M/ref=sr_1_52?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1338671477&sr=1-52[/url:7pt6r2yi]. Use that in case of flat. Otherwise, Pedal Damnit!
Once found a key, left it on one of the loose nails of the trailhead sign. Hope whoever lost it took it back.
If you are asking me that question then yes. If you do it wrong you could ruin the wheel.
Absolutely, you don’t want more than 20 degrees of float.
Also just read that your disc is moving up and down. Things is off center. Loosen up the star bolts and rotate the disc backwards, then torque the bolts back down. Should clean up a LOT of vibration.
Sounds to me like some kid wiped his boogers on the disc. Take the rear wheel off, clean the disc with Acetone, and take a paper towel and wipe off your brake pads. If that doesn’t work, you need to go up a disc size.
Back your shimano’s all the way out. Then turn them in 8 clicks. Next, pump your tires up high and ride all week on the road in the evenings after you get off work. Clip in, clip out, clip in, clip out. When you feel like you are getting more confident, ride with one foot clipped in and the other hanging. Switch after a little while, then turn them in 4 more clicks and lower your tire pressure. Go ride a Mtn and enjoy your new pedals.
You need a new cassette bad if this is the first time you have changed your chain. Get a shop to replace your cassette, spoke, true your wheel, and adjust your hub. It will be cheaper far than a new wheel and will last almost as long. Adjust your drivetrain yourself, DIY is difficult when you are starting from square one on the entire back wheel.
Check your seatpost and saddle, weird clicking sounds seem to eminate from there more often than not.
Yes, but replacing the entire BB is almost as cheap as a XTR rebuild kit. Good sealed square taper runs as low as 35.
Just calling em like I seem em. square taper is low end, and I second the deore, your rings will last longer. As a clydesdale, either you are really lucky or know how to shift. Most Talon’s and Hardrocks need that right off the bat. By the way, I work on this shit everyday at my shop. Pretty sure I know cranks.
Then that’s a really crappy 1k bike. Square taper shimano cranks are super cheap.
Avid 1’s are very impressive for their pricepoint. All the features of XO, but with a killer pricetag.
Any Bikeshop that works with QBP could have sold you one for 9.99.
