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RAYD8R There are a lot of good deals out there on new bikes. You can get a decent hardtail for less than 1000 (Yes a $2400 bike will be more nice but don’t let perfect be the obstacle of progress). I have High School kids on my mountain bike team absolutely crushing it on Giant Talons and Trek Marlins, including some podium finishes. Generally speaking, a new bike is a more cost effective way to upgrade when your bike needs a lot new components (the big manufacturers buy parts for almost nothing compared to retail). Also, no component upgrades will give you the benefit of a modern frame geometry. The head tube angles on the old 3×8 bikes are very steep, the chain stays are comparatively long and the new bikes will feel awesome for you.
Presta valves were developed when road bike rims were getting so narrow that the hole from the valve was a significant compromise to the strength of the rim. The few extra millimeters of material provided added strength to the rim. For a wide MTB rim made of modern materials, that rationale for using it doesn’t necessarily apply. If you like it, use it. Personally, I had an issue with the presta core getting screwed up and just decided to use Schraeder. I’ve been happy with the decision. The air chucks are available everywhere, the cores are cheap, replaceable and reliable, and the removable core with wider hole makes adding sealant a breeze.
One could make this argument about everything. When I was a kid, we all got by with a single phone for a whole house… attached to a wall. Did we need a cell phone? Probably not, but once it becomes available people decide it is worth the dough…
I like to keep my biking simple. But I have no delusions that my view matters much.
It worked. 80 trails, Hopefully will hit 90 this year
Looks cool, good luck. We are looking for this type of thing at one of our local parks too.
Jumbo Jims, Terrene Wazia Lites. The Kenda Juggernaut Pros get a lot of hate online, but they are good all rounders (the 4.0 has almost no knobs, I like the 4.5).
I don’t always get the best price, but I’ve decided to stick to trusted distribution channels; LBS, established online retailers, etc. It is too hard to be sure otherwise. Some parts it might not be a big deal but the material specifications, quality systems, tolerances can make a difference in the performance. I’d rather stick with who I trust (both from a brand and a channel perspective)
Use the search map function and you can see all the gravel roads.
You can probably build a safe route using Gravel Map: https://gravelmap.com/browse/michigan#7.4/42.598/-83.588
The Topeak Wedge saddle bags are really good. They have a clip that hooks to the saddle rails and the smaller ones don’t grab the seat post (so won’t interfere with dropper). I am old school (no dropper), so I use a bigger one that does have the strap to the post in addition to the clip. No worries about the key bugging you in a pocket or stabbing you in a crash.
You could try tape or something over the sensor that would not move relative position and see if it has an automatic shut off
Take it to the dealer but be prepared for them to not have a solution. I actually have worked in the auto industry and was on the product launch and development side of the business for years. I am not a Luddite and in spite of how I make a living, I’m getting to the point that all the new “features” are a detractor to my purchase decision rather than attraction. My old POS keeps running and when it does break costs me a fraction of my newer car to fix.
You would be amazed at how seemingly simple problems are immensely complex to solve. Using your issue as an example, even if the sensors denote the presence of a rack, every time the rack/bike wiggles (and they all do) the sensor is presented with a new object and trips. It would be very complicated to develop and validate a solution, short of allowing the driver to shut it off when using a rack which open safety cases should they forget to turn it back on.
Find yourself an old Jeep Wrangler…
If you are going to modernize it, you might be better off getting a new bike. Of course, a lot of people like to revitalize the old classics and that bike would definitely qualify. Arguably it would be worth more in serviced, stock condition. By the time you do all the things to get it going you will have a lot of $ wrapped up and it would still have old school geometry. Personally, I would pick a new bike because the modern geometry bikes ride awesome. Even the lower end bikes are pretty good.
I have a kid on my youth team that refurbishes old bikes and loves riding them, but he races on his new bike.
I like my Wahoo Element. You can set the main screen up very easily with as few or as many functions as you want on screen. The app is easy to use.
I have the M375s on my buddy bike with 185 rotors and they work fine. I have Avid BB7s as well which are probably one of the best mechanical brakes out there.
Yes. As long it has the components and geometry you like, it’s a no-brainer.
Places are getting added to my bucket list faster than I can possibly visit them! I need a patron or sponsor so I can do this full time, it’s my only chance to catch up. Anyone want to sponsor an old fat guy?
I’m too cheap to buy the latest thing and riding time is too precious to waste with a mechanical issue. Give me tried and true. I’m still rolling 11 speed.
It is stacked loop singletracks, and 2.5-3 miles a lap would be really easy to do with a grass area to pass in
I would evaluate what the cost of the upgrades are and shop it in comparison to a new bike. Some of the new bikes are actually designed around the mullet configuration but you could go a long way in mulleting (is that a word?) the bike you have. DIY Mulleting of your bike would be a fun project.
