[danlafran]

perfect video to show the basic. Find yourself a parking lot and a few hours to kill.

As you saw in the video:
1. learn the manual sitting low and bending the knees. Goal: hold the manual long enough to get across the width of a parking space.

2. learn to lift the rear wheel with the front wheel on the ground. This is a little harder because you need to throw your weight over the bar and thats counter intuitive for a lot of folks.

3. Now put it all together!!

Now that you know the theory, theres two ways to speed up the learning curve:
1. Find a buddy to learn the skills with and have a bunnyhop session!
2. Inundate yourself with bike videos. Not the new videos where guys are laying down 360 flipwhips. Find yourself some older trials videos and early 2000 street videos. The basics are easier to pick out.

I just hunted down a bunnyhop competition on vitalbmx. This is a good way to see how its done: http://www.vitalmtb.com/videos/features … hmitt,2252

happy bunny hopping! If anyone is in the Worcester County area of MA, I’ll gladly do a bunnyhop session and show the local trails!

[danlafran]

1. Stay super crouched and stay bent at the knees so you can manage the rear wheel repeatedly dropping each step.

2. Depending on the grade will depend how far behind the saddle you need to be. The steeper the steps, the farther behind the saddle you need to be.

3. RUBBER BAND ARMS! dont stiffen up, if you stiff arm any terrain then this will get the feel of pitching over the bars! keep your chest low and arms bent. (google motocross attack position) You know you got it right when your pushing the bike through the terrain, not the terrain pushing the bike.

As for bike setup:
– Travel will just make the ride smoother, travel cant fix bad weight distribution over the bike.

– A dropper post will allow you to put your weight where you need it (if your on an AM/XC bike).

[danlafran]

+1 for tipping!
In fact if it was lunch time, I would wave off the tip and ask if they’re hungry. If so, I would ask if they’re willing to take a trip to the small sandwich shop across the street, by the time they come back, I’ll have their bike all set and they would hook me up with a sandwich or snack of some sort.

I find people are more willing to tip in food over cash.

As for pay….you cant play the "averaging" game. Shop size and clientele is too wide spread to make generalizations. If your a mechanic and you want a good pay, you better find the best shop you can that sells high end bikes.

[danlafran]

Okay, Your dabbling in some great stuff here but to do it right and make the software actually valuable for both customers and distributors, there are some elements the tool needs beyond making a "pretty picture" with a list of parts:

1. sourcing information: for every part that is configured links you to sites/shops that sells the part
2. General part info for each part including weight, recommended use, etc.
3. 3D modeling team whos sole purpose is to build/maintain 3d models of bike parts
4. Profitability through bike part endorsements, ads, higher level "paid" software
5. Have a "paid" upgrade software package that lets you manage your bike and replacement parts by linking to manuals, upgrade kits, DIY maintenance videos, etc.

First step is to define EXACTLY what the tools purpose is for and physically post it on the office wall to ensure the vision is communicated to the team. This can blow up in your face and start going in 30 different directions.

The best way to ensure success is to treat the project as you would a business. You need a sustainable product which is valuable to the customer in which you can manage. Your biggest challenge will be sustainability with keeping up with new technology.

Quick thought: Theres lots of young engineers learning 3d modeling software who learns by modelling bike parts….I was one of them. Put out an incentive for them to model stuff for you. Build a set of guidelines and list of parts that you need modelled and see what people submit. If they meet your qualifications, throw them a bone! (Sticker package, small parts, whatever)

Good luck! I look forward to seeing what this evolves into!

[danlafran]

most commonly used in the shop is Polylube 1000, but dont forget about Phil Wood Grease!!!

[danlafran]

I have a cadence sensor only on my road bike. I only find value in it on the trainer to ensure Im spinning at the speed I should throughout my workout:

http://app.strava.com/activities/116606890

Use the cadence sensor to support improving pedaling technique and workout consistency on the trainer. That will translate to both road and mtn biking.

Here are my feelings regarding additional sensors/info for riding
Cadence: To guarantee your trainer sessions are consistent
Heart Rate: To track your performance and ensure your not overtraining
Power: To compare yourself to others

[danlafran]

This is a skill that you can work on at a pumptrack. You need to learn to propel yourself throwing your weight using your knees and shoulders. throw your weight over the feature and let the bike follow. dont slam your bike with speed thinking momentum will just carry you over. You need to redirect your momentum with your body weight.

So, to get yourself out of a ditch….
Use your knees! Tuck way down low as you approach the steep up at a moderate pace. The second your front wheel hits, pull your shoulders straight up! Imagine someone lifting you up by your head. If you dont fully extend your legs and arms, then you didnt maximize your effort.

You’ll be surpised how slow you can approach the feature and still make it. the higher you throw your weight, the bigger the feature you can clear!

Happy riding!

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