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I can tell you your problem is the spindle length on the bottom bracket. You’ll need a replacement V2 BB with a longer spindle length. You can measure it when the crank arms are off, or take out the BB and it’ll say probably "68×113" or something. So instead of 113 you need longer like 118.
Did you buy these parts separate? It would be strange for them to both be on the bike and not be right. As for the chart you wanted, all you need to know is if your crankset is an Octalink V2 then that means you need a V2 BB.
What bike is it on? I wonder if the problem is also too wide of a BB shell…..
"topjimmy" wroteFrom what I understand with this Race Face chain ring you don’t need a guide.
Right, but in conjunction with a clutch rear derailleur. I don’t own any of this single ring stuff, but I think the idea is that as you have it you may drop your chain on some serious bumps, whereas with the derailleur too you’d be fine. But if I were you I’d say having to put chain back on once every 75 miles isn’t that big of a deal!!
Looks awesome!! I’m a little envious : ) Remember: if you find your chain falling off the front chainring, option 1 is to get a chainguard, option 2 is to upgrade to a SLX + rear derailleur (the "+" means it has a mechanism that reduces chain bounce).
Keep us posted! I’d love to find out if that chainring is sufficient to keep the chain from falling off.
"topjimmy" wroteThanks for the advice. Now I just need to buy the parts and try. Also think I need a crank puller tool right?
If it’s a 2010, it probably doesn’t use a traditional crank puller. Check out this video, because it’s likely what you’ll have to do.
[url:3fy5089t]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCDcJ1W9Doo[/url:3fy5089t]
You’re going to have to explain what "free hub housing" means, as that’s not a normal term. And what is going bad about it?
Here’s a great resource for converting to a single chainring. There may be more to it than you realized…
[url:32yq5ks4]http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/trail-tech-how-to-convert-to-a-1x-drivetrain-37451/[/url:32yq5ks4]
Best bang for your buck would be the chainguide option they mentioned, because you could keep your current set up – just remove the small and large chainrings. But as they say, special front chain rings AND a rear dearilleur with a clutch is the best bet. (But high $$.) Good luck on your project! Should be fun.
I have one I’ve been using for years on the road. Haven’t installed it on a MTB though; haven’t had the desire to. But it’s a battery-powered device on your non-drive side chain stay that sends a signal to your computer based on magnets on your rear wheel and non-drive crank. It’s great on the trainer, as you can turn off gps (in the settings) to save battery power, and then get speed and cadence info. Additionally, it’s nice off the trainer because speed/distance are more accurate with this. And if you’re in dense forest on the MTB, losing a signal every so often won’t affect your final distance measurement (as the speed/cadence sensor of course keeps running regardless of GPS signal).
"schwim" wrote[quote="schwim":wloarw9x][size=200:wloarw9x][color=#FF0000:wloarw9x]For me[/color:wloarw9x][/size:wloarw9x], it’s a wasted feature.
There. Just in case you missed that bit of the sentence.[/quote:wloarw9x]
I didn’t say you [i:wloarw9x]are [/i:wloarw9x]fat, honey, I just said "[i:wloarw9x]in my opinion[/i:wloarw9x] you’re fat.""gar29" wroteI don’t think anyone said it was useless, just not for them.
"wasted feature" = useless in my book
"ollysj" wroteFox and Rock Shox didn’t use a real lockout on the rear suspension, while DT Swiss and Manitou still do.
DT Swiss – good to know. Haven’t ridden their shocks.
This is what I do: take the pads out. This way you can see the pistons. Use a tire lever – it is curved and plastic, both less likely to mar up the pistons than a screwdriver. Now push with a fair amount of force til they are fully flush with the rest of the caliper.
"jstrobby" wrotewhen to lock out suspension and when not to lock out suspension ?
Do you mean shock or suspension fork? Lots of people are responding about pro-pedal, which is on fox shocks. It isn’t a lock out; I’m not sure of any shocks that lock out. So I’ll assume you mean suspension fork. People have answered above this when to do it, but I thought I’d mention that it is not a useless feature. Common sense will tell you companies wouldn’t spend millions on R&D on something useless. And people wouldn’t be upgrading to forks with remote lockouts if they were remotely doing something useless. If you aren’t racing you may not need the feature, but those who take mtb seriously use it religiously to become faster.
I imagine 121mm is fine. But when you install the new crank on the new BB, just make sure the small chainring doesn’t hit the frame. I’m sure it’ll be fine, but that’s the concern when getting a shorter BB.
"Mangaroadrush" wroteNow I need to get the correct octalink bearing and will be good to go! Suggestions !
The link I had before was this.
"schwim" wroteThanks a bunch for all the help. I’ll keep an eye out for some of the grippers from a vendor that doesn’t charge quite so much shipping for them or wait for PP to do another free shipping special.
Free shipping:
Derailleur cables are the same for all SRAM and all Shimano – road, mountain, hybrid, you name it. So if the cables are frayed, and are long enough to reuse, don’t bother buying new ones!
"billq0000" wroteYou will need a crank 9/8 speed compatible, 9 speed Shifter, 9 speed chain, and rear derailuer.
There is no BB32 Bottom Bracket on the market so your not looking at something right. If your bike has 7 speed stock it is going to be a basic bike with a thread in bottom bracket so if you go with the s600 crank you will also need a matching bottom bracket with the correct spindle length or if you have a square taper bottom bracket now they make a s600 crank that would work.Echo….Echo…Echo….
Best of all go support your LBS and spend $10 on a chainstay protector along these lines. (I prefer the velcroed neoprene.)
They’re all good quality. Just get a basic one like this. Make sure you get the same dimensions off the current one.
What do you mean you "stripped the arm"? Are you saying you can’t get a crank arm extractor in to remove the crank because the threads are stripped?
"jeff" wroteMight as well put all your SLX stuff on the shelf. 😀
Obviously you’ll need a new shifter and derailleur that’s 11spd. And a new cassette with narrow/wide teeth. Oh, and the cassette won’t fit on a standard rear hub so you’ll also need an XD driver body. And don’t forget a new chain!
Exactly. You need LOTS! (And it’s [i:3gae8eme]very[/i:3gae8eme] expensive. 11 speed cassette alone is $400.) I couldn’t agree more with just going 1 x 10. If you’re getting that Race Face ring, good call. That’s one of two key parts to a single ring setup, both of which prevent the chain from falling off. The only other crucial thing is to make sure you have an SLX rear derailleur model RD-M675 not 670. The 675 has the clutch mechanism that prevents the chain from bouncing around. Without a front derailleur, your chain would otherwise fall off regularly. So if you don’t have that, your options are to either buy a Shimano derailleur with that (SLX, XT, XTR) or get a chain guide / chain keeper. But note the chain guide negates the need for that special Race Face ring, adds more weight, etc. So if you go that route, you could get away with returning the ring.
