Alvin Mullen

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  • in reply to: Need Help with SRAM Guide Brakes #585706

    Guides can be hard to get right, when I built my evil, I got them from the factory and had to cut the rear to size, and re-bleed. I just did them as per the video by SRAM, then left the syringe on at the caliper, opened fitting valve, and pushed just a little fluid back in then reclosed. This made my rear brakes just as solid as the front that was sealed from the factory.  Also some guide versions have internal seals that wear, and some will be replaced by the factory. You would have to call with your model and serial to find out if yours are included.

    in reply to: Best mtb flat shoes other than five ten #585705

    I personally do not use bike specific shoes, I have been using Sketcher Vigor 2.0 for five years for biking, hiking, and everyday use. I just change out the strings for quick laces.



    in reply to: What mtb trails off of highway us-10? #516472

    If you have Kindle unlimited you can check out the panhandle section of my book for free. “Mountain Biking Florida” for the first part of the trip.

    It will be a little dated as the last time I was over there was about four years ago. I was suppose to take a week or two long trip last March to do more research and update, but Covid interfered with that.

    in reply to: what bike and why do you ride a full sus? #508746

    I have an Evil Insurgent for most riding, and a Giant Stance (for gravel/pavement/easy trails) I ride Full Squish because it is more forgiving, easier on my knees and back, and in general I think more fun to ride.

    in reply to: Bike rack for truck #507518

    I have a Ram 1500 quad cab, with a locking tonneau cover, and I don’t really care for the tail gate pads. I use them when I have to carry more than two bikes, other wise I just use moving pads. I take off the front tires, lay one bike on its side rear tire in first, cover it with a moving pad, lay the other bike on the other side laying over on the pad. Then I throw in around the bikes, cooler, tool box, gear bag, and what ever.  Lock the tailgate, lock the tonneau, no one knows you are even carrying anything. Until I got the tonneau I never felt safe stopping to eat.

    in reply to: Newbie fear of going down hill #506887

    Once you have a bike that gives you a little more confidence stop worrying about speed. Work on being smooth and controlled, start slow. If you stay smooth and controlled you will get faster.

    in reply to: New 49yr old with basic questions #506756

    First, get a pair of padded riding shorts, they will help. Second everyone’s sit bones are different, generally a more expensive seat will be better (provide the extra expense isn’t just about being light weight) but not if it just doesn’t fit. Here is a link to top rated seats.–best-mountain-bike-saddles-reviewed-and-rated.html

    I like WTB saddles and here is the link to their fitting system.

    As far as your legs, make sure your seat is the right height, to low puts extra strain on knees and legs. Also best to find what is your comfort pedal rate, if your legs are getting tired but you are not out of breath, go down a gear and peddle faster, if you are out of breath before you legs get tired, try a higher gear. If they both  give out about the same time, you are probably doing it right, and you just have work up slowly to longer distances. I’m 63 and have been back riding mountain bikes for 5 years, the prior twenty years all my two wheeled adventures included an engine. When if first started back, I have worked up to 10 to 15 miles three or four times a week, with an occasional 20+ mile day, but if I take off more than a couple weeks, I’m back to anything over 4 miles makes me sore. It is just a matter of finding your pace, and doing as much as is fun, the rest will come.

    I ride an Evil Insurgent. Another good all around for the money is the Giant Trance.

    in reply to: Should I wear a helmet for biking? #506757

    I think we have a consensus.

    I always wear a helmet, and if I am on an intermediate or advanced trail it is a full face helmet. Actually I have a Bell Super 2R with removable chin bar.

    in reply to: Trying to narrow down first FS bike… #504991

    What is wrong with SRAM, or are you just trying to avoid buying from the only major american bicycle parts company?

    in reply to: Newb here with so many questions #501764

    My opinion, the bang for the buck on a do everything bike is Giant Trance. But that being said, there are tons of good bikes all over the spectrum. The best way to find one it to test ride a bunch and see what feels best to you.

    in reply to: Tire pressures for trails #425128

    Depends on tire  brand, width and your weight, also terrain and your personal preference can affect what you run. I weigh right at 200 lbs, and run 2.30 Maxxis Minions 22 to 25 PSI rear, a couple pounds less in the front.

    Technically you don’t really need 200+mm rotors on the back. My Evil had 180 front and rear with no adapter on the rear, so I added adapters to both ends for 200m rotors. I have SRAM brakes.

    Seeing you said 203mm I assume you have Shimano brakes and this should work on the fork.

    If you have Avid/SRAM brakes you can only go 200mm and I believe it would be a 20mm post mount for the fork and a 40mm post mount for the rear. Not sure if it is the same for Shimano brakes.

    If you have an adapter on the rear for the 180mm is probably a 20mm and could be moved to the front for the larger front roter.

    in reply to: Suspension Tuning Help for a Heavy Rider #328246

    Unless you are bottoming hard, or you are not riding the hard as you plan, the shock sounds like it is about right. You should be using all of the travel on the hardest parts of the trails you normally ride.

    I am not that up on your fork, but in general I find my bikes feel best with 20% sag on the fork and 30% on the shock. If you are running more than 30% and still only using 75% of the travel, I would guess you have more spacers than you need. But again, I have never had a bike with that fork.

    in reply to: Reader Bike Checks #324803

    2018 Evil Insurgent. Bought it in pieces and built it myself.

    in reply to: New to everything and looking for a mtn bike #324656

    Tire size is totally a matter of preference. That being said a some 29in bikes feel bigger and don’t fit shorter people as well, but certainly not all are that way.  I’m 5’9″ and prefer 27.5, my wife is 5’1″ and prefers 29..  Without test riding a couple of bikes it is near impossible to tell what fits you and what you would prefer..   The best bet without demoing bikes would be a 27.5 from one of the bigger brands.

    As far as price there are relatively decent starter bikes in the $350 to $550 range but none that I know of in that range are great for upgrading down the road.  For hardtails the price where they get to be good quality and better for upgrading is from $1000 to $1500. If you opt for full suspension, the same quality is in the $2000 to $2500 range.  I personally, in the cheaper to mid range bikes, like the brands of Giant, Santa Cruz, and Salsa. But there are dozens of very good brands and bikes.

    And of course, for either style, you can find top of the line bikes with cutting edge technology for over $10,000.

    in reply to: 6'3"185, Beginner, $500 budget #318660

    Thanks, not sure why it disappeared from me.

    in reply to: 6'3"185, Beginner, $500 budget #318628

    Well I had a long post trying to help, but the system deleted it. Not typing again.

    Bike Nerd is mostly right, but tire size and frame geometry is a matter of personal preference and indended use, not necessarily superiority. This is a decent cheap hardtail, my son has one he uses for mostly pavement and easy trails.

    in reply to: Enduro Bike help needed #318031

    A lot of travel?  I don’t consider a bike an enduro unless it has between 140mm and 160mm of travel.

    in reply to: MTB handlebar height #315660

    I’m 63 and both my bikes the bars are about an inch and a half above the seat when dropper is up.

    But to start with it is totally personal preference. The concept is for going down steep hills higher is usually better. The caveat is that they still need to be low enough so that you are not stopped from leaning forward far enough to clear steep uphills.

    Personally I would like to run my bars even higher, but where they are at times doing quick sharp ups, I touch the bars with my body leaning forward. But I figure they are about right as I usually only realize that I had hit the bars when I notice I have knocked my odometer of its mount again.


Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 635 total)