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Didn’t look like anyone mentioned Apex Park (up Chimney Gulch, down Enchanted Forest!) in Golden, that’s one of my favorites 😃
imathlete.com seems to be the most popular in my neck of the woods. Always been quite happy with it, although I’ve only used active.com and bikereg.com a handful of times.
If you’re in Las Vegas you should check out some the of Blue Diamond area trails. A little more XC-oriented the Demo forest or Downieville but worth the stop. Cool shop there, and you can ride the trail network right from the parking lot."d_cushman" wrote
Sorry, not true. 9 speed chains are narrower, and you need narrower chainrings. I don’t know what a "b32" BB is….where are you reading b32? The S600 utilizes two types of BBs, so make sure you get the right crankset for the right BB: square spindle ([url:1ocri9ar]http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Square-Bottom-Bracket-68x118mm/dp/B005DTIDDY/[/url:1ocri9ar]) or Power Spline ([url:1ocri9ar]http://www.amazon.com/Truvativ-Power-Spline-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B003WOQENI[/url:1ocri9ar]) spindle.
Then, like you said, new FD, a RD that can do 9 speed, shifters for 9 speed, and a 9 speed cassette. This could be a serious overhaul….
Yeah you’re right, touche. I was thinking this was a 1×9, so no front rings/ramps to worry about.
Go the hardware store and ask for rubber mastic or insulated electrical tape, that’s the ticket.
Used the POC knees before and they do fit like a glove, even though they’ll break the bank.
Highly recommend the 661 Evo line, incredibly light and comfy, and you can pick them up for a reasonable price on sale. Not sure if they have that for shin/forearm though, these are hard to come by in a "softshell".
Yeah it should be just as simple as swapping out the cassette/derailleur 😃
You betcha. Just pop the stem out of the rim and you’re good to go.
Not sure I follow; why do you need a new crankset for a 9 speed cassette? Are you going to a 1×9?
Don’t know how precisely you’ve located the sound, but pedals could be the culprit as well.
Have you looked into the Crank Bros Kronolog? Great dropper post, external routing, competitive price. And one 5’10" rider to another, I use every bit of the 125 mm of travel.
Everyone’s technique advice is spot on, but I’m not sure I agree about the bike. IMHO, learning on BMX would be a great way to improve your all-around bike handling skill, particurly if you have access to a pump track or something equivalent to practice on. It’s no coincidence that a lot of top riders started out racing BMX as kids.
Obviously you’ll want to practice all this on your MTB as well, but if you’ve got some cash burning a hole in your pocket I’d do it.
A Park/Urban/DJ tire might be good fit here (fast on hardpack/pavement, hard compound, cheap). I’d check out soemthing like a Maxxis Holy Roller. Should be able to find ’em for less than $25 a pop.
Gotta go with Fruita on this one (if you include the whole Grand Junciton area), it has more progressive, bike-specific trails than Moab (PBR at 18 mile road is the latest example of this). I love the classics in Moab as much as the next guy, I think Fruita’s got it as far awesomeness per mile.
Pretty sure I cracked a rib a couple days ago, so I feel you pain. Feels fine as long as I don’t need to breathe. Best thing for it was a bit of retail therapy, got to replace the handlebar that I bent between my ribs and the ground.September 20, 2012 at 9:39 am in reply to: Help understanding the "U-Turn" adjustment on my fork #112762
Yeah, that’s definitely not working. Try this (disclaimer – small loose parts): Take out the screw on the adjustment knob and it should lift off, revealing a bearing assembly with a number of ball bearings sitting on it. Based on what you’ve described, I’m suspicious that the plastic piece holding these bearings will be broken somehow, resulting in out-of-place or missing bearings.
I’m not actually a RockShox expert, I just play one on TV. This just sounds exactly like what happened to the Pike on my old trail bike. If this is what’s wrong, it’s a pretty cheap fix, but you probably need to get it looked at either way.
The permanent solution is to ditch RockShox and get a Maverick fork while you still can 😃
If there’s a nut, I’m assuming these are presta? Either way there are a few things to consider:
– Personally, I toss the nut. IMHO it’s more apt to cause damage at the base of the valve than prevent it. If you need it to get the pump on the valve, get tubes with longer stems.
– Don’t worry about the tire, that’s not your problem if its failing there.
– Examine the stem hole in the rim. You could a nasty edge or burr that’s cutting it.
– Last but not least, try a different brand of tube. Every one is a bit different, and some perfectly respectable manufactures make flimsy, sh*tty tubes.
Hmm. In that case, Is it related to the gear your in? And can you get the noise by just spinning the cranks (not riding the bike)?
Huh, first time I’ve heard of Ghost…
Is the frequency of the click related to your (a) pedal cadence, (b) speed only, (c) none of the above, no rhythm?
Based on that, I’d guess:
a) Probably a front derailleur adjustment thing, it’s just the chain hitting the derailleur. Could be a stiff link in the chain. Could also be a BB problem, but let’s hope not.
b) Narrows it down to your rear wheel or hub.
c) Could be something loose and wiggly in the linkage
Yeah, what he said. It sounds like you’re making your ulnar nerve unhappy.