TK34


TK34Trailblazer

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  • in reply to: Gloves without annoying seams #291288

    I’m a big fan of Fox Ranger gloves. Never noticed any seam irritation, they’re economical, and have held up really well for me including occasionally throwing them in the washing machine.

  • in reply to: Is my bike wear and tear normal? #289298

    Aaron – welcome, and you’ve got a fine bike. I like to say that the “best” bike is the one that gets you on the trails. Ride the crap out of it!

    As the other guys are saying, a new bike will stretch the cables a bit, and of course you need to always keep up on the cleaning and lube (mostly chain). Check with where you got the bike – many places offer a few tune-up within the first year.

    With regard to the creaking near the bottom-bracket, certainly occasional creaks squeaks are normal. If it really is the bottom-bracket, that is not normal for a new bike. But I’ve also found that often the noises aren’t actually coming from where I first think. First place I always go is degrease and lube the chain. Second, check and tighten the crank arms and you might even try removing them, clean, grease, and tighten. The other places to check are the stem/headset and seat-post/seat. I know you might hear the noise elsewhere, but I’ve been fooled before. Good luck!

  • in reply to: Winter MTB Vacay #289293

    Coming from the Upper Midwest, my go-to Winter destination is Arizona. I schedule the flight for Phoenix, and then preference is to drive to Sedona. But sometimes the weather in Sedona isn’t great, I’ll head south to Tucson. Trails in Tucson aren’t quite as good as Sedona, but still solid when the weather in Sedona doesn’t behave.

  • in reply to: Help me choose a bike? #271545

    I can’t tell you what to buy, because ultimately there isn’t one perfect bike for everyone. But I will add that I am a big advocate of the dropper post and 1X drivetrain. Strongly recommend you look at these two key features, either factory or factored in as upgrades. And don’t worry about trying to find the “perfect” bike – make a good choice, ride the crap out of it, and don’t look back! Good luck!

  • in reply to: Lies we tell ourselves #271253

    I’m going to flip this a positive direction: “I don’t have the skills for that drop/rock garden/gap.” Until I get the balls to try it:-)

  • in reply to: Dropper post on All Mountain bikes? #269922

    I’m a big believer in droppers for all types, especially for All Mountain (if what you’re referring to is mid-level suspension travel that will be going both up and down hills). You might convince me I don’t need a dropper for cross-country, but I’ll take one on every other type.

  • in reply to: New Rider #269695

    I second Plusbike. For that budget, I would suggest one of the plus sized tire hardtails that he recommends. A full suspension for less than $1500 will be hard to find, and the suspension won’t be very nimble anyway. Get a quality hardtail with a dropper post (for lowering the seat on command), and that is a great setup to get started. In fact, I’ll predict that if you go that route and really get into it to buy yourself a higher end full suspension later on down the road, I bet you’ll still find yourself riding the hardtail too. Good luck!

  • in reply to: Tubeless rims problem #269694

    My two cents that Plusbike and Rmap bring up a worthwhile point that everyone shouldn’t just rush to tubeless because that’s the cool thing. I’ve got two full squish bikes, one tubeless and one tubes. My typical riding is not thorny or sharp rocks, so tubeless doesn’t have much benefit and frankly more upkeep than with tubes, including upgrading the tire because it kept burping at my local bike park.  Periodically refreshing the juice is not a big deal, but still a small hassle 2 or 3 times per season. On the tubed bike, I still ride about the same 28psi, and I’ve pinched one tube in the last two years.

    I’m not hating on tubeless – it has benefit for some, but not everyone.

  • in reply to: New member #269544

    First, I’ll fully support the notion that if an eBike gets you outside and riding on any kind of trail that can support it, DO IT!  But I think the debate continues on trails that are susceptible to more wear and tear from either increased traffic and/or speeds. For example, this year I’ve had the pleasure to ride both both Soquel Demo Flow trail near Santa Cruz and Half Nelson near Squamish. Both require you to earn your elevation with significant climbs, and I have to believe these kinds of trails get less traffic because of that barrier to entry. If eBikes are allowed on that kind of uphill climb, I wonder the effect on the downhill? Does is turn into some of the runs at Whistler when they get “washboardy and rutty” from the traffic?

    To me, that’s the debate on eBikes. I’ve got zero issue if it gets you moving, particularly if you need the assist and you’re riding paved paths and fire access road. More power to you – some day I might join you!  But I am worried about impact on singletrack trail systems.

  • in reply to: Can the chain get wet without having to re-lube it? #268635

    It depends on the type of lube. For an oil-based “wet” lube, I’ve found I can go much longer between re-lubing including when it gets wet. For that reason I use “wet” on my road bike and only need to clean it a few times per season. But I don’t use it on my two mountain bikes because of course it picks up more dirt and therefore takes more effort to clean. So on my mountain bikes I use a wax-based “dry” lube because it cleans much easier. The downside, to your question, is that I re-apply every 4-6 rides and after every ride it gets wet. If I don’t, I can definitely notice more noise and slower shifting.

    If someone else has a better routine, I’m all ears;-)

  • in reply to: Entry level MTB upgrades #268525

    Like everyone says, don’t overd0 the upgrades – just get riding. I agree with others that I would hold off on expensive upgrades like a fork or 1X gearing. But I’ll chip in a few thoughts to think about when you’re riding: 1) for true off-road trails, I’m a big proponent of a dropper post – there are a few mechanical models (KS, for example at $100 or less). It will help you build confidence on downhills and drops. 2) With all respect to some of my brethren, unless you are riding trails with sharp rocks and/or thorns, I would not be in a hurry to go tubeless. I ride both, and I don’t think the cost and upkeep is worth it UNLESS you’re riding rocks and thorns. 3) Another idea is a good set of flat pedals with pins. I prefer alloy but Race Face Chester composite goes for less than $50 on Amazon.

    Good luck. Ride the heck out of it!

  • in reply to: colorado trails #268034

    Colorado is so wide-open with possibilities, its hard to single out one particular place. Crested Butte is on everyone’s list, somewhat calendar dependent due to elevation. Grand Junction/Fruita area is drier, lower elevation and also near Moab. Then there are Breckenridge, Durango, Eagle, etc., etc.

    Here’s a good article to get you started: https://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-trails/top-5-mountain-bike-destinations-in-colorado/

     

  • in reply to: MTB in Oregon #266517

    I haven’t been yet, but I’ve got Bend high on my list.

  • in reply to: Looking to buy 1st mountain bike #265267

    I think you’re on the right path – a quality hardtail is a great place to start. Marlin could be a very good fit if budget is a major concern, but if you’re willing to spend a little more, the Roscoe 7 could pay off in the long run. 1) hard tail with plus tires (2.8″) is a great combination – the plus tires will gobble up the smaller roots and rocks you’re likely starting on. And even if you do a serious upgrade to full suspension later, there’s a good chance you’d keep riding the hardtail+. 2) I’m a big fan of dropper post and 1X drivetrain – Roscoe 7 has both.

    Marlin may be a very good fit, but just throwing this out there if you’re willing to stretch. Make the choice, ride it hard, and never look back – the trail is in front of you!

  • in reply to: Hi, new member in Florida #265097

    I fully respect your effort to save some money, but check on the 1X gear setup and dropper post – can’t recommend them enough. As for the 2.8″ tires, I certainly don’t know S.Florida but where they will come in handy is roots and smaller rocks.  In my opinion the rolling resistance between 2.2″ and 2.8″ is barely noticeable. So with a hardtail I think the 2.8″ is a great combination. I would push you to a Roscoe or Fuse, but main concern is get you riding.

    Here’s another thought – if you really start to get into off-road, there is a good chance you’ll be looking at a serious upgrade in 3-4 years and go full suspension. But even if you go that route, you will still find a quality hardtail with 2.8″ quite useful. I have two full suspension bikes and already thinking about adding a hardtail. Good luck!

  • in reply to: Hi, new member in Florida #265093

    First, welcome! Strongly recommend you not worry about finding the “perfect” bike – make a good choice and get riding! Second, you’re thinking makes a lot of sense for a hard tail with plus tires (2.8″) – its a good combination to get started off-road. I’ve never ridden the Marlin 7 so I’m not entirely sure about the following advice, but I like the Roscoe (and Specialized Fuse) because it/they offer two key components I highly recommend. I am a big fan of 1X gear system (no front derailleur) and seat dropper post. Both Trek Roscoe and Specialized Fuse should have them, and I don’t think Marlin does.

    Good luck, make a good choice, and ride the crap out of that thing!

  • in reply to: BIG BOX against Established Brand #264950

    My two cents that I think the answer depends on how you’re really going to use the bike. I personally wouldn’t go cheap big-box, but if you’re an occasional rider staying on bike paths or gravel that is mostly smooth, then cheap big-box may suffice (if that’s the case, I would question why even going with a “mountain” bike, but to each their own). But if you are planning to get into true off-road trails anything more than beginner, I would strongly recommend a more established brand. I personally wouldn’t risk taking a cheap big-box on a fast, gnarly downhill – the quality of alloy used in the frames and the wheel construction alone give me reason to pucker.

  • in reply to: Looking at entry level full suspension #264853

    My advice depends on your experience level. If you’re just starting out in the sport and not sure how much you’ll get into it yet, I’d push you towards a quality hardtail and possibly plus (2.8″) tires. Trek Roscoe and Specialized Fuse have a real good set of components (including 1x drivetrain and dropper post). There’s a good chance you’ll go one of two routes: 1) off-road won’t really stick for you and you’ll regret spending too much money up front; or hopefully 2) like many of us, you’ll get into it so much that 2-3 years down the road you’ll be looking for a serious upgrade and you’ll have a better idea what you want.

    Now with that said, if you’re still thinking full squish, I agree its pretty tough below $1,500 and even sub $2K is tough to find recommended options like 1x drivetrain and dropper. But again, if you really start to get into riding, there’s still a good chance you’ll be looking for serious upgrade in 2-3 years and now you’ve got an entry bike collecting dust. But if you go with a hardtail now, chances are you’d use that more even after buying a more serious full squish later on down the road.

    Strongly recommend you demo or rent a few before diving in. Good luck!

  • in reply to: Winter MTB Vacay #289295

    Garducio – temperature in Moab late November is borderline, depending on what you like. Average highs are high 40’s F (high single digit C). But temps could be in the 50’s or 30’s F too. Precipitation is usually minimal, but you never know. If you do go, you should definitely look into the trails around Fruita and Grand Junction, Colorado. Both have quality trails and less than 2 hour drive. If you’re willing to go farther, look into Hurricane, Utah. About 5 hour drive. Good luck!

  • in reply to: GPS vs Cycle Computer: Distance Accuracy #268584

    Thanks Jeff. I actually found and read this article before my post, but your follow-on statement about your subsequent test on a “dense and curvy” trail really speaks to my question, so thanks! I totally agree it will depend on any particular trail, as opposed to a road or bike path that is wide open with relative “straightness.” Thanks for confirming! Still curious about what kinds of ranges other people are seeing on their trails?

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 61 total)