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I say go for it! I upgraded my inexpensive fat bike to 1X and it was well worth it. 12 speed will not fit the hub, nor will sram 11 speed, but shimano 11 speed will fit. For an affordable wide range cassette get a sunrace 11-46. If you want to go 11-50 you will also need the wolf tooth goat link to allow the shimano derailleur to work. Just about any 11 speed chain will work. Any brand 1X crank/chainring will be fine too. Or you could look at one of the other drivetrain companies like Box. They seem cool but I have no experience with them. Sounds like you are probably going to have a shop do the install so just make sure to check compatibility of everything with them when ordering your parts. Good luck!
Where you live makes all the difference between how good of an idea it is to ride in the rain: for the trails, and for your bike and the two categories don’t always line up.
Sorry to hear that. I would not trust a gravity brand full suspension frame or the shock and fork specced on it. Although their rigid bike is fine for what rigid single speed bikes should be doing. For the best deal possible on a trustworthy full suspension rig id look for used demo bikes from a legit shop unless you are saavy enough to buy used privately.
Most likely you use those cogs the most and have worn down the sides of the teeth to create bigger gaps which don’t lock in well with the spacing on the new chain. Most likely you need a new cassette but occasionally I have been able to endure this for a few rides until everything syncs up again. Although this works best when the skipping gear is not used as often and risks you may wear your chain quickly in which case you may need to replace that along with the cassette.
I wear out side knobs as fast or faster than center knobs on my proper singletrack bike so no go on that. but sure, I have had the same tires on my vintage rigid bike for over 10 years of occasional use (tires are 10+ yrs, frame is almost 20) and they are only getting faster for what I use it for.
I used to switch between the 2 shock mount positions on my Mega Trail to adjust travel and HTA. But then I invested in an air shock with shorter stroke for days when I want to drop weight and travel so now I just about always use my coil shock in the 165 setting and swap out the shock for XCish days. Although I am still playing with both mounting positions with the air shock, dialing in which travel setting is best for different trails.
I have an older version of the shop level park ts and say it’s well worth the money. I would argue that a nice one that dishes and trues both sides all at the same time is so much easier to use you will be inclined to use it more often for maintenance and take better care of your wheels. For me, the cheap one makes the process tedius and annoying and a nice one makes for a relaxing, meditative task. But either could eventually achieve the same result. Your call.
Lots of practice on drops you are comfortable with or mostly comfortable with and slowly step it up.
If $2100 is double your budget and you want full suspension you should look for a used bike. I don’t know of any full suspension worth buying new for $1K but you could get a decent hard tail for that much.
Anything on the front range from canyon city to fort Collins will probably be good to go unless the occasional storm rolls through.
+1 as long as you feel comfortable enough in assessing the state of wear, biggest factor: frame, then suspension, then wheels and drivetrain. Or find someone who can help you out to make sure you don’t buy a beat up bike disguised with a good cleaning. Be careful, but definitely a great option.
I’ve had longevity issues (lack thereof) with NX and GX circa 2018-2019. Derailleurs kept breaking on me with NO impacts. Switched back to Shimano and no problems since.
I have a different perspective with bottoming on every ride. I prefer to have suspension dialed so I rarely fully bottom out with a clunk. Took me a long time to learn using full travel every ride isn’t necessarily a good indicator of proper suspension setup. Some trails just don’t require all of your travel and that’s okay. Using more travel than you need just makes you slower. It’s all about feel and making small adjustments on one factor at a time. When working on a tune and I know I’m close I’ll go 2 clicks in a direction at a time to really feel the difference then adjust accordingly. After 2 years of tinkering with suspension settings on a new (was new) bike I finally felt like I could go to any trailhead and know how to tweak it for that ride.
Addition: there is a difference between bottoming out and using full travel. Bottom outs are harsh clunks that should be avoided if possible. Tokens will help make the compression more progressive (due to a smaller air chamber) which leads to less bottom outs. It doesn’t really effect the mid or top stroke of the travel. for full travel, I find some rides I only use half of my travel and some rides I use it all and the tuning i do beforehand plays a big role in that. (I ride a 170 mm Ribbon).
Instead of trying to upgrade axles (not possible in rear, would require a new fork in front) and headset etc… I’d just save for a sweet new bike with exactly what you want. IMO a better investment in the long run.
Maxxis EXO casing works well for my Enduro/XC style with occasional full on DHing. I have found 2.4(ish) to be my sweet spot for about a decade (or more).
I enjoyed a 2.6 in front with 2.5 in the rear (DHF & Aggressor) which I tried about 2 years ago. But my speeds climbing and descending definitely increased when I went back to a 2.35 high roller II and minion SS. Then went to 2.35 ardent races and they are even faster in most situations but they just don’t corner as well when shredding hard.
Kneepads have saved me or at least reduced injury before sliding out of place in a crash many times. Cracked 2 helmets in the past 23 seasons of riding. Those would have been bad head injuries. Just last weekend finally made use of my detachable full face in a crash and probably prevented a few stitches on the chin or lost teeth.
Not enough information to come to any conclusions. But… What kind of maintenance was done on the wheel over the 6 months he rode it? It is owner responsibility to inspect a bike and components for damage and necessary repairs/adjustments before every ride. A shop recommendation before purchase doesn’t guarantee a part won’t catastrophically fail if it isn’t properly maintained for 6 months. The lack of information regarding these issues seems to me to indicate that proper maintenance was not done. had it been, there probably would be documentation of it in the story. Combine that with the hard riding of a winning racer and I’m not surprised that a failure occurred. I wish the rider a speedy recovery regardless, but I am not in support of the lawsuit.
RJust picked up a single speed 27.5 “Gravity” brand from BD. Well packaged, reasonably pre-assembled/ adjusted (some required), and super solid quality on everything, especially for the cost. Geometry is old school for sure but weight isn’t bad at all.I purchased to be a vacation bike used about a week per year to stay sane when visiting the in-laws and am very happy with it. Note, I went full rigid as I know I would smash a cheap fork. Front wheel mounts with 15mm nut/bolt BMX style to match the rear wheel. Super solid touch!
Weak brakes? I don’t ride this SS nearly as fast as my regular rigs so they are plenty adequate.
Went SS to cut down on cheap parts that could break.
Did 2 rides on gravel back roads and 2 on trail. All good no complaints! Feel free to hit me up with more specific questions if you have em. Although I can’t do any measurements until next summer since the bike is about 5 states away.
Last note, shipping communication was weird. I never got an email confirmation of the purchase but the bike showed up in about 4 days.
To follow up, I have to admit an old GX derailleur on a 2011 Giant lasted for many years, but the new sram stuff lasted for a few months at best. Only reason why I have run sram is that it came stock on my last two bikes. I am old school into Shimano since the mid 90s and never liked grip shift back in the day. But as I mentioned in previous post, recent sram derailleurs have broken on me without a crash or impact. All Shimano all the way again for me!
In my experience NX will just break again anyway and not worth putting any money into. I’d have sent you my old NX cage but I threw out the whole derailuer after the tension spring for the pulley cage randomly blew out. Upgraded to GX, broke a tooth on a pulley wheel within a month. Got fed up with sram breaking and went back to Shimano. No problems since.
RJust picked up a single speed 27.5 “Gravity” brand from BD. Well packaged, reasonably pre-assembled/ adjusted (some required), and super solid quality on everything, especially for the cost. Geometry is old school for sure but weight isn’t bad at all.