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  • in reply to: Technique or skills video on navigating wet slippery trails? #290997

    This one came to mind:

  • It depends mainly on where you live and ride. During the summer, I might only wash my bike once or twice mainly because I ride in dry, dusty conditions. I do wipe-down the shock, fork, and seatpost stanchions after each ride along with frequent cleaning of the drivetrain. I agree with what Rmap01 quoted about not wanting to unnecessarily expose the bearings suspension pivots to water.

    When I lived in a much wetter environment, my bike was subjected to weekly full-teardown cleanings and lubes.

  • in reply to: Mixed standard fork and frame #290055

    I’d suggest (since this is an initial build) that you try to find a boost fork, unless you found an incredible deal on your fork. Its likely paying the difference in price will save you a lot of headaches down the road if you need to replace wheels.  Keep in mind, decent non-boost wheels will only get tougher to find and there’s a decent chance you might end-up buying two forks over the long run.

    Full disclosure; I have a boost frame/non-boost fork and am constantly on the lookout for good deals on boost forks for if/when I want/need new wheels…

  • in reply to: Your MTB plan? #289473

    Continue to have fun riding and not “have a plan.”
    While that may sound snarky, allow me to provide some backstory. I started XC racing at 14 years old and became a pretty strong contender and most races in the JrEx class in the area. My military service took me to Utah where I resumed XC racing and added road training/racing to my resume. In a given week, in addition to working full-time, I typically spent 35-40 hrs on a bike which didn’t allow time for much else. In 2000 and 2001 I tried to freshen things-up by trying my hand at DH racing as well and while showing promise, I just couldn’t afford hardware to really be competitive. In the spring of  2002, I just couldn’t find any motivation or desire to ride a bike anymore. I had spent 9 years living on a bike and structuring my life to revolve around it without allowing any real fun. Every ride was a targeted training event, every meal was fuel and it just sucked all the fun out of riding.
    Fast-forward 12 years and I started to feel something missing. I felt an inexplicable urge to dust-off my old XC bike (now a relic) and get back on a bike. In the past 4 years, I’ve bought 3 bikes (HT, FS Trail, and fattie) and ride when, where, and how I feel like with a strict “no racing” policy. I guess the closest thing I have to a “plan” is to slowly integrate my 2-year old son into riding and to continue just riding for fun…

  • in reply to: winter trail riding #289225

    I personally look forward to winter riding but I also have a fatbike so its just a different flavor of riding for me. I have an ARSUXEO winter cycling jacket (Amazon) that works pretty well with a base layer or two and I typically do 3/4 length shorts with 4ucycling (again, Amazon) pants. For my feet, I just wear wool socks with mid-height winter boots and trail running gaiters. For my hands, I wear normal full-finger gloves with bar mitts; they look stupid but they work, I really can’t recommend them enough if you regularly ride in the winter. Add a head/neck gaiter and I’ve been good down to -10­­°F.

  • in reply to: Is my bike wear and tear normal? #289216

    Jeff hit it on the head. You seem to have yourself a solid first mountain bike and (I’m betting) you are experiencing break-in related adjustment needs. I’d recommend subscribing to the Park Tool YouTube channel, while they do (naturally) push their tools they also have very informative “How-To” videos that will greatly increase your knowledge of how a bike works and save you a ton of money over time.

  • in reply to: Breaking in…. #271783

    I could type it all out, but Seth did such a good job in a series of videos.
    After you get the basics, Phil Kmetz also has an excellent series of videos on how do build slightly more advanced skills. (or search “Skills with Phill, beginner”)
    First off, follow the advice in the episode about picking a beginner bike. You should be able to find a great lightly used beginner bike for around $500. I’d suggest starting on a hardtail (contrary to what others might suggest) for price, simplicity, and skill building. Don’t be afraid to learn bike maintenance as well, it can make the sport so much more affordable and get you out of a trailside bind WHEN (not if) something goes wrong. Don’t be too intimidated if you aren’t mechanically inclined, bikes are actually really simple machnines and there are a ton of really good “how-to” resources on YouTube. Park Tools has a really good YouTube page ( with excellent instructions that cover just about all aspects of bike maintenance (yeah, they push Park Tools but they are still really good).
    Once you begin to build some skills (or even come to the realization that this sport is for you), you can start demo-ing bikes or dabbling in the FS world to see if that is a route you’d want to go before making the investment or even if you want to.

  • in reply to: front shock pressure thoughts #270200

    Diawson hit the nail on the head. Treat the factory specs as a baseline and tweak from there. On my hardtail, I’ve Found I like about 8% less than the recommended sag with no tokens (initially stuff with linear travel) because I like a really positive feel on that bike. On my FS trail bike, I use the recommended sag with two tokens for more progression. For my damping, I use the method in the attached video (sorry, I know you said no vids but I didn’t feel like typing it all). I’ve fine-tuned them a click or so either way, but it got me really close.

  • in reply to: Dropper post on All Mountain bikes? #269923

    Currently I only have a dropper on my trail bike (YT Jeffsy) but I intend to add one to my fatbike (Fuji Wendigo) before winter. I’m also sort of forced to add one to my hardtail (Charge Cooker 3) to accomodate my son’s Shotgun Kid’s Seat. While I’m on the subject; the Jeffsy has an E13 TRS, I’ll almost definitely go with a PNW Cascade on the fattie and a PNW Pine for the hardtail. Its also highly likely that all of the posts will use Wolftooth levers.

  • in reply to: "Stay Light on Your Bike" … What Does That Mean? #268720

    I’ve always interpreted “riding light” as staying loose on the bike, absorbing shocks with your body instead of the suspension, and always trying to unweight the bike as much as possible on obstacles. Basically how you’d ride if your tires were a bit too soft and you were trying to avoid pinch flatting back in the pre-tubeless days…

  • in reply to: Entry level MTB upgrades #268523

    I like the suggestion of customizing the parts you make contact with first. It’s a great, inexpensive way to make your bike feel “yours”. After that, tires. The stock tires typically suck compared to aftermarket (even the same brand and model, the OEM tires are typically made of harder compounds). Finally, I totally agree on doing a tubeless conversion. It’s the cheapest way to take about a pound of rotating mass off your bike and your grip will improve dramatically.

  • in reply to: I Do not Race! #267748

    I raced from my teens into my 20’s. The constant worrying about speed, structured training instead of riding for fun, and the general misery you endure from riding “on the rivet” totally burned me out and made me take a decade away from riding. I’ve been back at it for about 5 years and I’ve sworn to BEVER race again. I use Strava but only to keep a log of rides and not chasing PRs or KOMs.

    I think you are on the right track to make mountain biking a fun lifelong activity.

  • in reply to: Bring Back 90's color to bicycle frames #267513

    Bring back the Kleins!!!


  • in reply to: What MTB trend do you want reversed? #289883

    Iowasx4mtb gets it! The people out killing it on old-school gear are, and have always been, cooler than people struggling on top-end stuff.

  • in reply to: Is my bike wear and tear normal? #289314

    From what I could tell by pictures, it looks like you have a threaded cartridge BB but thats just a guess. Before you tear into it though, remove your pedals and clean/grease the threads in both the spindles and crank arms. Also, while we’re troubleshooting creaks, remove your seat and to clean and apply a thin film of grease to the seat rails where they are clamped by the seatpost and to your seat clamp parts. Be sure to also lightly grease your seatpost inside your frame. You could also develop a creak where your chainring bolts to the crankarm. With all of these we’re just talking a thin film of grease, pretty much whats left after you wipe it off with your fingers, any more will just attract dirt and cause problems.

  • in reply to: What MTB trend do you want reversed? #289244

    I’ll add to “over-manicured trails”. It drives me nuts when people with 160+mm travel bikes whine about rough, rocky trails. Its what your damn bike was made for!!!

  • in reply to: Lies we tell ourselves #271314

    So does everyone who isn’t Phil Kmetz…

  • in reply to: Lies we tell ourselves #271260

    Revengel: “Just Manual through that mud. I’ll be much easier! (fail so miserably, Swamp Thing asks me for my number ‘cus he thought he saw me on Tinder)”

    That made me laugh way too hard, bravo!

  • in reply to: Bring Back 90's color to bicycle frames #267529

    I’ll agree with you on their fragile nature. Also weren’t they before somebody realized replaceable derailleur hangers were a really good idea? Also, when will they realize that proprietary integrated systems (like bars/stems/forks) aren’t going to work? It seems like somebody decides to dust-off this idea every decade or so…

  • in reply to: Biker sues Specialized, LBS over cracked rim injury #267511

    A much better way of stating the point I was trying to make…

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 91 total)