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Oops, My bad. Don’t know what I was thinking. After seeing the schematics I forgot the RS1 was air assist (It’s been so long since I’ve seen an RS1). Most likely the fork seals are bad but I would still replace the fork. Just make sure if you buy used you get a shock with the correct head tube length for your ride. You can always cut the head tube down, but ya can’t strech it 😆 😆 😆. As far as repairing your fork goes these guys are the pros on vintage forks. Here’s a link.
http://www.hippiesuspension.com/
Once again, hope this helps. 😃 😃 😃. Till next time be cool. Peace out!
Welcome aboard TragedysMantra…………
Well, from your pics I do believe your right about your shock being a RS1. The first thing you have to consider is that these shocks were made from the late 80’s into the early 90’s and are severely outdated. Parts are expensive and hard to find. these shocks do not operate on air and are not oil filled/dampened. They are also completely non adjustable and in my opinion (unless being used for a vintage build up) useless. Chances are the main springs inside the stanchions (shock bodies) have either been completely removed in order to make the bike rigid or severely damaged. In either case I would have to assume for the cost of repair, it would be cheaper to buy a new or used shock through ebay or some other online store. A good replacement for the RS1 would be the J1 or J2, DART 1,2 or 3, or DUKE Race which can all be picked up rather cheap on ebay. Your best bet before making any serious decisions would be to consult your LBS first. Other than that if the bike still functions fine you definitely got a killer deal, even if you do have to replace the fork. Hope this helps a little. Once again welcome aboard, good luck, and enjoy the ride 😄
Welcome aboard 😃 . The more the merrier.
Chumba lock ons. Used em before. Super bad a**, cheap, very sticky, and good for smaller hands too 😃. Here’s a link 😉
"trek7k" wroteGood tips. I should mention that the bike and components are brand new (January) so there really hasn’t been a lot of time for things to get gunked up yet. Still, I have been riding in wet conditions on forest roads lately so ya never know.
You never know. It could just be a manufacturing defect as well.
I would try a through cleaning by soaking the derailleur in solvent (kerosene, degreaser, etc..) and giving the whole thing a thorough scrub down, rinse in a mild detergent (soapy water) followed by clean water, and then blow dry it with an air compressor. When that’s done give it a little dry silicone lube.Make sure you get all the dirt and grit out of the return spring and chain tensioner spring housings. If that doesn’t work the return spring is probably loosing its temper and getting weak in which case it’s time for a new derailleur. But definitely check the cable too as well 😄
"slap8up" wroteThe Manitou Splice and Minute are both great forks for a mildly aggressive rider. Both can be picked up pretty cheap on ebay 😃 .
Almost forgot. If you go for the Manitou splice, get the ones with air assist and a lockout. Also like mongoose said, the Nixons a great shock too. Ive personally seen his son put a pair through the "torture test" and there still kick’n like a chicken. 😄
The Manitou Splice and Minute are both great forks for a mildly agressive rider. Both can be picked up pretty cheap on ebay 😃 .
"NismoFreak69" wrotewell i just got some odessy twisted pcs pedals and that took away the creeking so good deal whats your opinions on thes pedals?
Never used em before but I’ve been considering buying a set. Let me know how they work out for ya. After you’ve given them a "battle test" post a review for us.
"JayTee" wroteAsfyxiate, I’d go with the LizardSkins chainstay jumbo size for your bike. Got one on mine and love it. Besides, they’re only like $7 bucks…how much money can you really save??
7 bucks is 7 bucks…. I’m poor. Mostly because of my addiction to MTBing 😛.
Hello brother, welcome aboard singletracks. Always a pleasure to have new members aboard. As far as an answer to your pedal question goes Drive Technologies, Azonic, and Odyssey all make some good mid line platform pedals. Your best bet is to go with a pedal that offers replaceable pins and sealed bearings. As far as clipless goes you’ll have to wait for a response form another member on that one as I only run platform pedals on my rigs 😃 . Hope that helps you somewhat 😄 .
No clue about the lizard skins thing, but have you considered the ol’ inner tube trick (it’s free if you have an old inner tube). Simply cut about a 2 foot length of tube, slice it down the middle, spiral wrap it (like wrapping a road bike handlebar) around your chainstay, cut off the excess, and secure it with some electrical tape (three or four wraps should suffice). It’s free, It’s functional, it almost eliminates noise from "chain slap", and when done right it looks good too. Hope this info helps out a little 😉 .
"Andrew_Gilbert" wroteSince i just got my Jamis and have not been on a bike in years i’m working on staying up on the bike and off the ground its amazing back in my youngster yeras i could whip a bike all over the trails now i’m all shaky like a 90 yr old without his walker. they say you never forget so i’m guessing it will come back to me after i ride the bike a few times and get use to it.
So true 😆 . Besides working on the same things as Andrew here, I’m trying to re-master the tail whip and big drops on a MTB. I used to be real good at the tail whip on a 20", but since my recent comeback into mountain biking I seem to have lost my "edge" 😳
"trek7k" wroteI still have fond memories of my rigid Bridgestone MB-5. It was a chromolly frame but I just remember it riding really light and fast.
But yeah, my favorite bike is whatever bike I’m riding at the moment (currently a Redline d660 29er).
OMG!! I forgot about the die hard Brigestones. And I have to agree with the "my favorite bike is whatever I’m riding at the moment" statement. That one pretty much sums it all up 😄 .
"steve32300" wrotefull rigidNow I’m seriously looking at building a rigid bike for the trails,been meaning to since last summer,but with the recession.
Yeah. I’m seriously considering making my next purchase a full rigid again but I having a hard time deciding what I want. I’m thinking about buying used and I’m trying to keep the price around $250. I’ve got 3 FS bikes already (for the technical stuff) and all I’ll be doing with the rigid will be light to moderate XC. Any ideas???? 😃
"steve32300" wroteWhat a buzz kill dog crap on the trail is,it’s just not the same as wild animal crap,ya know???
One thing I used to hate when I used to ride dirt bikes was hitting a freshly s*it pile of horse crap on a trail at about 55 mph. There’s nothing quite like the smell of digested hay and grass on a hot exhaust.(and for all you guys who hate dirt bikers just to let you know, no I didn’t ride my dirt bike on MTB trails. That’s like s*itting on your dining room table right before you eat 😆 )
Something else I forgot to mention that really boils my blood is when your favorite trail or track gets shut down on account of local idiots that think just because they got a bike for x-mas they now posses the downhill skills of Gee Atherton coupled with the freestyle vert/dirt jumping skills of Lance McDermott 😈 . On they’re first or second ride they take the tallest drop or the biggest jump they can find (on they’re brand new Roadmaster Mt.Fury 😆 ), break a bone or rupture a disk (by taking the jump or drop in a fashion that leaves you thinking WTF!!!!), and then sue the city or landowner for their own act of complete ignorance for the laws of physics, motion, and gravity 😏 .
The SRAM X-7 and X-9 derailleurs are both excellent choices. Personally I would run with the X-9. Here are a couple things to remember when selecting a rear derailleur.
"slap8up" wroteLong-cage derailleurs have more distance between the pulleys than medium-cage and short cage deraileurs, allowing them to take up more chain slack. If you only have one or two chainrings, you can probably use the medium-cage, but if you have three chainrings and the usual wide-range cassette, then long-cage will be more suitable. The longer cage is slightly heavier and rides a little closer to the ground, reducing obstacle clearance a little bit. RapidRise derailleurs are sprung so that they "home" on (return to) the largest cog on the cassette, not the smallest. I think the theory behind RapidRise was that you could force-feed upshifts to smaller cogs instead of relying on your derailleur’s parallelogram spring to upshift when you let out a click’s worth of cable at the shift lever. RapidRise or non-RapidRise is your personal preference, just make sure you have shifters compatible with a rapid rise derailleur (STI style). Furthermore, the manufacturer publishes a "Total Capacity" for a derailleur in the specs which can be found in the owners manual or most likely, via the internet . The capacity is calculated by subtracting the smallest chain ring from the largest plus the difference between the smallest cog on the cassette from the largest. On a standard 22/32/44T crankset with an 11/34T cassette The calculation is as follows:
(44-22) + (34-11) = 45
So with this combination you require a 45T capacity derailleur. Most medium cage derailleurs have 33T capacity. If you rings and cassette work out to more than 33 you need a long cage. Hope this helps you out somewhat 😄 .
here are a couple links to jensonusa for derailleurs as well. Hopefully this info will do you some justice 😃
Just great… Someone else for Goose to talk that weird french gibberish to. LOL 😃 . Just kidding. It’s a pleasure to have ya aboard nickrm. If thres anything we can help you with feel free to drop a line 😄 .
"Mongoose" wrote[quote="rallyvette":2ns1a9kk]Anyone have a silver bullet for leg cramps?
I am in the best cycling condition of my life (winning sport class races) and riding 2-3 times a week but no matter what I do if I am riding hard I start getting cramps around 2 hours in to a race pace ride. I drink tons, I have tried sport legs, eating bannas, stretching and nothing seems to help.Well, first of all, defining a cramp is simple enough: It’s nothing more than the short, involuntary contraction of a muscle. One of your muscles literally decides to flex, and to briefly stay that way, without your permission. Certain drugs, such as diuretics (water pills) for the heart and for high blood pressure, have also been cited as a cause of leg cramps
Low levels of certain minerals known as electrolytes—magnesium, potassium, calcium and sodium—have long been linked to leg cramps. You also may be in short supply of vitamin E. It has been said by sports therapist & nutritionist that using a vitamin & mineral therapy will help tremendously with warding off these painful cramps.
These dietary tips can help you keep magnesium and vitamin E, the nutrients that help ward off leg cramps, where you need them in your body:
Cut the cocktails. Even a single drink containing alcohol may decrease the supply of magnesium in your body.
Trim the fat. Dietary fat makes magnesium harder to absorb, increasing the chances that it will be wasted.
Cap your sweet tooth. Eating sugary foods forces your body to use magnesium just to metabolize the sweet stuff.
Can the cola. Soft drinks contain phosphates, which experts say also deplete your body of magnesium and calcium.
Doctors recommend these nutrients to help end leg cramps.
Nutrient Daily Amount
Calcium: 800-1,200 milligrams
Magnesium: 800-1,200 milligrams, taken as 2 or 3 divided doses
Vitamin E: 400 international units
I hope that this helps, as this worked for me when i was getting a lot of leg cramps even though I am in good physical shape. Good luck brother![/quote:2ns1a9kk]
Damn Goose. Why didn’t you go into sports medicine when you gave up being a paramedic??? 😃
