[Foothill]

I built a rigid singlespeed specifically for two trails in my area. One has been around for over 20 years that I have hundreds of laps on. The other is relatively new but is machine built, really smooth hardpack, with good flow.

The old trail is mostly flat, tight and twisty, rooty, oldschool handcut singletrack. My 140mm trail bike was a bit of a hand full in the tight sections. There are a lot of low speed 180deg flat turns. The trail bike just doesn’t have that sharp low speed handling. And the weight of the bike was taxing after numerous accelerations out of those flat tight turns. On the rigid singlespeed I can really whip the bike through the turns and carry more speed with less work. And the lack of suspension forces me to pick better lines through all the exposed roots on this well worn trail.
<p style=”text-align: left;”>The newer trail is just flat out boring on my full suspension trail bike and hardtail trail bike (29er, 130mm fork). It is basically a 2.5mi pumptrack through the woods with three short climbs. There is no challenge to going fast on this trail with 1×11 gears, wide grippy tires, and bump (what little bumps this trail has) absorbing suspension. The rigid singlespeed forces me to maintain momentum into the climbing sections. Flow through the fast sections where im spun out. The skinny, fast rolling tires and lack of suspension keeps me on my toes in the turns searching for the lines with the most grip.</p>
<p style=”text-align: left;”>There is a bike suitable for every type of trail, but not all trails are suitable for just one bike.</p>

[Foothill]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>I use tie downs to secure my bike. The ones I use have a “soft hook” like these http://www.mooseracing.com/products/?productId=166634</p>
I like that style because I can avoid placing a metal hook over my carbon handlebars. Even scratching aluminum handlebars is not a good idea.

[Foothill]

Shimano makes a 9spd cassette with a 12-36 range. Its is the CS-HG400. You will loose lose some top end range but gain on the low end.

It is a heavy cassette, but it shifts well and is durable. I used one for a season on a 29er with a 32t and 30t chainring, depending on the trail.

I would recommend a new chain when you do the conversion. You could even use a 10 speed chain. It will shift fine and stay on the narrow wide ring better since it is narrower. Chain length is key since there are no 9spd derailluers with a clutch. Basically you want the chain as short as possible to keep enough tension on the derailluer cage spring in the smaller cogs, without ripping the derailluer apart if you bottom out in the large cog.

[Foothill]

I have a 120mm fork on my 2015 Rockhopper. It is a Rockshox XC32. Heavy, but a pound lighter than the Suntour pogo stick that was stock.

I rode it at 100mm for a while then when the time came for its first service, I removed the travel spacer on the air spring shaft to increase it to 120mm. I weigh 220lbs and have had no handling or frame issue after nearly two years. Although it depends on how you ride. I have the bike set up singlespeed and only use it on tame trails for fitness, so little to no jumping or high speed rough sections.

One issue you may need to consider when shopping for a fork for your bike is the headtube. I think the Rockhopper Comp came with a tapered headtube, but you need to make sure. And even though it may be tapered, those Suntour forks had 1 1/8″ steerer tube. So you may have to purchase and install a new headset. At the minimum a new lower cup to accomodate a tapered steerer.

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