March 2, 2019 at 10:33 #257982
So what does your bike weigh? Not to brag or be any better than another, but to learn from one another tricks to cutting unneeded weight from our rigs. Maybe we can share: the make & model, year, full suspension vs hardtail, wheel size (diameter), “type” of bike as you see it (e.g. xc, trail, enduro, fat), weight, anything that may especially be contributing to the weight (good or bad) and then any helpful comments. For example, I’m riding (still):
Ibis Mojo HD, 2012, enduro bike, full suspension, 26″, 31.1lb.
Adding to the weight negatively: 3x drivetrain (at least it’s the XTR set =) ), 160 fox front fork, and a dropper post.
Subtracting from the weight substantially: full carbon, carbon bars, 26″ tires, 160mm rotors, titanium pedals (DMR Vault Mg Ti Superlights).
The Superlights were one of my best upgrades to reduce weight. They have a large platform, awesome grips, and only weigh 290g for the pair. I got them on a great sale; they are terribly expensive otherwise. But they are not for heavy riders. Max recommended riding weight is like 185lb.
March 2, 2019 at 11:34 #257984
The weight of my bike is 9 kg. And i thing,that its good. Not so big and not so little)
March 4, 2019 at 08:49 #258023
9 kg? Wow. Less than 20 lbs?
March 2, 2019 at 15:29 #257989
When I bought my Trek Full Stache, it came with heavy 1250gm 29×3.0 Enduro tires and I switched to lighter 1000gm 29×2.8 Trail tires. I also traded the dropper post for a solid post, put on a shorter stem, and a smaller chainring. I estimate that I reduced the overall bike weight by about 1000gm (2+ pounds). My bike now weighs ~32 pounds.
March 2, 2019 at 16:37 #257990
I built my FS 26″ trail bike. Weighs 29 pounds with 6061 frame, dropper post and the pedals. Most of the weight reduction focus was on my front air suspension, rear air shock and XT drive train. I try and shave grams where I can without sacrificing durability.
March 4, 2019 at 09:06 #258024
My Whyte T-130 comes in at a tad over 31 lbs. I’ve never been much of a bike weight watcher. Interestingly, my T-130 feels and rides lighter than my older lighter bikes.
March 8, 2019 at 21:10 #258462
31lbs with Schwalbe Super Gravity tires and FTD inserts. I’ve got one of those Chinese carbon frames (dengfu fm288), 26″ carbon Nextie wheels, DVO Diamond, XO cranks, Zee derailleur with a Oneup Rad cage and a bunch of ti hardware. I could save over half a pound by trading my KS Eten for a lighter post but it cost me $100 and is still going just fine after 5 years. Definitely not a flyweight, but absolutely dependable for the abuse I have put it through over the years.
March 8, 2019 at 22:10 #258463
Just the other (rainy) night I replaced my rotor bolts with Ti bolts. <sarcasm>Shaved off 1,000th of an ounce, and man NOW I can shred like crazy!! </sarcasm>
Truthfully, my bike weighs less when I’m not on it. Thankfully, that doesn’t happen often.
March 9, 2019 at 06:32 #258464
1,000th of a ounce, now you’re cooking. 🙂
Friend of mine once asked how he could easily trim a couple hundred grams off his bike. I told him to relieve himself…
March 9, 2019 at 18:20 #258482
I honestly don’t know how much my bikes weigh. To me, it comes down to how fast/nimble the bike feels. For my Kona, when I switched from stock wheels to the Arch MK3s I doubt I saved much weight but the bike sure felt “lighter” and faster and my ride times seem to bear that out. By the same token, I never felt the added weight when I installed a dropper even though I know it was heavier than the stock post. Yet the dropper significantly added to the quality of my rides.
For all those that are hyper-focused on shaving a few grams here and there, wouldn’t it be a lost more cost-effective to lose a couple of pounds off their mid-section???
So that brings me to a related question: does anyone know what the impact differential is between shaving 100 grams off the frame/components of a bike vs the wheels/tires? What’s implied in the question is whether there is a relative difference between rotational weight vs. overall load.
March 10, 2019 at 09:59 #258485
Mock me all you want guys, I had my reasons and weight was definitely not the first two of the three reasons. What’s really the big deal anyways?
March 11, 2019 at 10:50 #258539
March 11, 2019 at 16:00 #258562
Hardtail 2005 Specialized HardRock Comp- 25lbs
* Specialized Adrenaline 26×2.25
* RaceFace Ride XC 720 mm bar
* 2005 Fox F100 air fork ( by far the biggest weight savings and bang for the buck)
* XTR 9 speed cassette… while it lasted. (this was surprisingly a big weight factor)
* Heavy ass pedals
* WTB Lazer disc xc wheels
* My fat ass +200lbs.
I wouldn’t base any purchases off of weight savings alone unless I was a serious contender in the race scene. That being said, some things really do add up and can make the difference of you cleaning that climb or pushing your bike up it. I think that tires and wheels are the best spots to save weight if you have the opportunity.
March 13, 2019 at 09:42 #258695
2015 Giant Talon 29er – 26lb 4oz
Carbon Lite Renthal bars, 55mm Apex stem, DT swiss X430 XC rim, DT 340 hubs, 2.3 Schwalbe addix Racing Ralph (R) Nobby Nic (F), 1×11 NX with Race Face Aeffect cranks, Saint BB, Tektro brakes, Factory transfer dropper post, Factory F29 100mm fork, Volt pro saddle, Chester platform pedals.
March 13, 2019 at 10:43 #258698
My bike weighs considerably more at the end of my ride than it does when I start out!
March 13, 2019 at 15:01 #258723
I try to hit the bathroom before I ride. It usually takes off a 1 lb or 2 of the overall weight.
April 6, 2019 at 04:53 #259964
33 to 39# depending uponwhich Wheelset/Tires I utilize
(622×77 or 584×99 or 559×123)
[aeka; 29erPlus or 27.5erFat or 26BigFat, ALL having NONE of the listed Diameters Mentioned, as 26×4.8 *IS* (truly 559x123mm) and *Measures*; ~31.6″OutsideDiameter Tires on ~22.0″BeadSeatDiameter Rims… ~30.6″OD.Tires on ~23.0″BSD.Rims = 584×99… ~30.5″OD.Tires on ~24.5″BSD.Rims = 622×77 aeka 29erPlus 3″Tires…
on my TREK Farley EX8 Full-Suspension or Surly IceCreamTruck FatTire MountainBikes…
Even (up to +55#) MORE When BikePacking…
My SoulCycles Dillinger rigid 29er SingleSpeed weighs under 25#… but is only faster on SMOOTH Trails (which I seldom seek, nor readily would find, in NewEngland or wherever I will ride)…
FUN has little to do with Mass or MoneySpent (when done properly or with the right company)…
I understand that *light* ‘MIGHT’ Be ‘Faster’… especially if it doesn’t *Break*…
Just RIDE… Have FUN… (spend/waste money as/if you must…)
April 8, 2019 at 16:11 #260091
I’m more concerned about what I weigh than what the bike weighs.
Anyway, my bike changes weight. After grinding up a climb, it sheds about 10 pounds when I point it downhill. True story.
April 11, 2019 at 10:15 #260230
Farley7 29.3 w/27.5 jacks on. Cannondale Flash al1 lefty-23.8.
April 16, 2019 at 10:50 #260544
Stay away from marginal gains, or vertical changes (IE, more expensive/exotic materials) and try to make lateral moves.
I have an 21″ trek superfly and I think its a little over 20 lb. If your frame is not a lightweight model, or if you ride an XL, its hard to save weight by swapping components. Carbon bars and seatposts are a big NO in my book because they don’t save that much weight, and carbon bars break easily in a crash. Carbon posts don’t break often but when they do they tend to end up inside you. Professional road riders rarely ride carbon bars, because they are expected to get back on their bike immediately after crashing, and road bikes need to meet a minimum weight anyway. Carbon wheels are great. Rotational inertia is a thing – lightweight wheels are great in road racing because it allows you to accelerate with less effort – in mountain biking that’s less important but it’s still a thing. Light carbon wheels do tend to be stronger than light aluminum wheels, especially with the trend to wide rims.
I don’t think tires are a good place to save weight. Lightweight pedals are great, but stick to steel spindles, ti is strong but I’ve seen a lot more broken ti spindles than steel. Better to use a lightweight platform, or an XC style clipless pedal with quality stiff shoes, than to use chunky enduro style shoes and clipless pedals with platforms.
I think 1X is a good way to save weight – there’s a marginal gain from ditching the components but in spring XC races and in cyclocross, a 1X setup collects less mud, which is a major savings in weight during an event. By the same token 1X is about a million times easier to clean, and because its generally cleaner all the time it lasts longer and its a cost savings. Foam grips are an OK weight savings for XC but you need lock-ons for anything spicier.
Ditch the backpack/camelbak. Carrying water, food, and tools on your back is dumb. Keep the weight low, in bottle cages, keep your spare tube and tools in a seatpack or even better, above the bottom bracket. Tie your pump to your downtube (where it can’t hurt you). Put gels/snacks in your jersey pockets. I like to stash gels/blocks under my leg grippers for races, its easier and safer than reaching back. Another trick is to lick clif blocks and stick them to your (clean) top tube. A camelbak sometimes is a necessity for a hot, technical race where you need to drink more than you practically could with bottles, but if you use it put ONLY water in it and distribute the rest of your essentials elsewhere. The only time I may carry a backpack is when I need to carry backup cold weather gear, or I’m packing a picnic on a chill ride, but a frame bag is way better for that anyway. If you don’t like riding in lycra kit, and can’t imagine riding without a backpack, try a hip pack instead.
Upgrading components is something I do as parts wear out. My SLX shifter failed after 2 years and I replaced it with an XTR part – not to save weight but the feel and functionality was way better (3 clicks down, 2 clicks up). Sometimes an “upgrade” can be a savings, when I needed to replace my drivetrain it was cheaper to order the parts for a 1X setup than to replace everything for a double.
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