Upgrades to improve bike fit

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    • #232506

      I recently posted about 2016 Ibis Mojo HD3 sz Large being a bit big for me. I’m 5’9” and right on the cusp for Ibis bikes. You guys gave me some excellent advice on playing with my current setup rather than buying a new bike. I’m curious as to what some upgrades might be to improve my current ride. 35mm stem, suspension settings etc.

      I’m also considering getting the SRAM GX groupset to upgrade my current SRAM NX drivetrain. Basically I’m trying to make my bike as “trail” friendly as possible, given it’s more of an All-Mountain/slacker bike. The bike is definitely overkill for what I typically ride, as the Mojo 3 would probably be the better fit. Just curious as to what some options may be before I sell my bike and get a “trail” bike.

      Thank you! You all are great!



    • #232507

      Sliding the seat forward on the rails and these bars along with the short stem should help. http://www.jensonusa.com/Truvativ-Hussefelt-Riserbar/

      They are a little narrower, 700mm vs the stock 740mm and with a 40mm rise vs stock 20mm rise

    • #232508

      A bar that narrow will most def NOT help things.  You are assuming he has narrow shoulders because he’s 5’9″??

      I have the same bike although I’m a bit taller.  I do run my saddle forward though, primarily to artificially steepen the seat tube angle to make steep climbing easier.

      If you’re going to do anything with the drivetrain, maybe consider changing to Eagle?  I’m personally happy with 11 speed, but some people like the extra range.

      Can’t really answer your question any further without a reminder of what’s on it now.

      • #232545

        If you go shorter stem, you have to go wider bars to compensate.  The bonus is the handling is significantly improved.  Personally, I would go in the range of 35-50mm stem and somewhere around 785-800mm bars.  Deity bars have a very nice backsweep to put you in a more natural position.   I know you are 5’9″, but one of the best riders I know is also 5’9″ and rides a 35mm stem with 800mm bars.  (http://www.dirtsmartmtb.com)   If you are hesitant, a shorter stem and sliding the seat forward will be quick fixes.

        As far as the bike being “too much”, that’s actually a good thing.  If you have a bike that is “just enough”, as soon as your skills get better or you get on a more advanced trail, you will hit the limitations of your bike real quick.  You want to grow into the capabilities of your bike, not have to keep upgrading bikes to fit your capabilities.

      • #232600

        Currently my bars are 780 with a 50mm stem. Going to switch to a 35mm for sure. I have broad shoulders, so bar width has never been too much of an issue. It’s more of my shorter legs I think.

    • #232606

      So Ben, when you say want to make the bike more trail-like, what are the issues you are dealing with besides you thinking that it is too much bike?  For example, are you having trouble climbing steep techy climbs?  Is it too slow?  Not playful enough? Other things?  The HD3 really is a playful bike with some very good trail-like behavior for an Enduro bike, so I’m surprised you are struggling with it a bit. And I agree with the others — shorter stem and moving the seat forward — could put you in a better position on the bike.  I don’t agree with Idahoian.  You don’t “have” to go with wider bars if you shorten the stem.  That is only true if you want to maintain your current position on the bike.  Changing the stem length can radically change the behavior and feel of a bike (in a good way or bad way).  Until this year, the HDs have always run a bit small, so I think you can get the large to fit you.  I ride a large HD, and it is too small for me.  I am 5’11-1/2″.  Many riders go a size up on HDs.

      • #232607

        I guess what I mean by “trail” is better climbing ability. The typical trails I ride here in Minnesota have short ups with short downs. I really noticed the struggle when I went out to Colorado and had to deal with longer climbs. I know a lot of this comes down to practice, strength, and mental ability. I just want to get this fit dialed in, being fairly new to the sport, this comes a bit difficult.

    • #232608

      To make the bike more trail-like, maybe you want to lighten it up a bit and speed it up a bit:

      1.)  lighter high quality tires are probably the first place to consider if you are not riding trails with sharp rocks — decreases rotational weight, reduces resistance, not costly.

      2.)  new lightweight rims/wheels, maybe carbon — again reduces rotational weight but is expensive.

      3.)  go with lightweight pedals and lightweight carbon bars.  You can oftentimes lose a half pound or so with these upgrades.

      4.)  a shorter travel fork in front can reduce weight and make a bike handle short really steep ups better.  If you think that you will sometimes be riding bigger mountain conditions, then you could go with the Talus fork and ride the bike in the short travel mode on your home trails and then open it up for the bigger conditions.  This might give you the performance you need now with some flexibility.  However, you wouldn’t save weight with the Talus from the standard Fox 36 Float that is usually spec’ed with the HD3.

      The HD3 is a really nice bike — quite playful and trail-like but can handle big mountain conditions.  I hope you don’t have to get rid of it.

      • #232610

        What are your thoughts on upgrading the drivetrain? The current SRAM NX on the bike is something I’ve considered upgrading. You can get the GX Eagle fairly cheap nowadays, and it’s a 1×12

    • #232609

      When you say you are having problems climbing, is the front end wandering on you or is the rear losing traction?  Or are you just getting tired on the climbs?  Or is it something else?

      • #232614

        Sometimes the front wanders a bit. But mostly it’s that I find myself wishing I had an easier gear. So therefore it is probably strength/stamina related.

    • #232613

      What is your current drivetrain?  And we do you think a new dt will help you on your climbs?  Did you see my questions about climbs? Any thoughts?

    • #232615

      Oh I just reread and saw you have the NX on your bike.  Sorry about that.  So are you feeling that you need that extra gear to make really tough climbs easier?  Or are you thinking something else about the dt?  And again, what issues are you specifically having with the climbs?


    • #232616

      We are just missing each other in internet space. =)


    • #232617

      Well then, the extra gear could be worth it to you.  I added an easier granny gear on a bike a couple of years ago (not on a 1x system) and wow did it ever help me.  Yes, I too needed/need to get stronger, but the better granny gear was a glorious change.  =)  Go for the Eagle if you don’t mind spending the money.  Or check into to adding a Wolftooth or similar granny gear to your 1×11.  I hear good things about that Wolftooth type granny gear.

      Also if the front end is wandering just a bit, you might consider swapping out your front fork for a Talus fork (2 step).  I use the shorter position on my Talus fork on most steep climbs on my HD.  It really helps the front end stay planted.  If you haven’t already, you should try/test moving your seat forward, especially since the bike feels a bit big to you.  A half inch or so forward with the seat can make a really big difference on calming down the front end.  I suggest doing that first before going out and buying a new fork … … of course.

      • #232618

        I appreciate your help! I will definitely try some of those recommendations. It’s winter here, so I don’t ride the HD3 right now. Just trying to get it ready for spring.

    • #232619

      Yes, I’m doing a little on my old HD to get ready for warmer weather too.  Cheers.  Ride on.

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