-
Posts
-
-
So I am new to the sport and currently ride a Trek 4300, I got the bike free and in decent. So anyways I am putting a Rock Shox dart 3 on the front, and replaced the grips and such, so my total money invested in this bike is only $150. So now I have been riding all summer and am getting OK at this whole thing…. I go riding about twice a week. So my question now is should I get disc brakes? The current lever brakes work just fine, just don’t perform great on these dusty trails. So would disc brakes be worth the investment on this bike considering the other stock parts on the bike are rather marginal?
-
You would first have to make sure that your bike has disc compatible hubs and fork and seat stay because without that, it wont be possible at all. I would ride your bike till you are either out riding your bike or dont think your bike is safe anymore and then upgrade the whole bike.
-
"TMCCORMICK" wrote
So I am new to the sport and currently ride a Trek 4300, I got the bike free and in decent. So anyways I am putting a Rock Shox dart 3 on the front, and replaced the grips and such, so my total money invested in this bike is only $150. So now I have been riding all summer and am getting OK at this whole thing…. I go riding about twice a week. So my question now is should I get disc brakes? The current lever brakes work just fine, just don’t perform great on these dusty trails. So would disc brakes be worth the investment on this bike considering the other stock parts on the bike are rather marginal?
You said it was when you ride the dusty trails. Disc brakes do good in mud, creek crossings, etc. If you are needing more stopping power, and more reliable brakes then yes. If not, then no. Like mentioned above, if your current hubs aren’t already disc compatible (your frame and fork should already be). If not, then you will spending money on upgrading parts so that you can upgrade your brakes (if they are the stock hubs then you need to upgrade them to accept a disc). Usually you can find a good manual disc brake kit for a not so bad price, but you have to your shopping. If you have already have equipment that would accept disc brakes then you should. Also lever brakes can only offer so much in regards to power and perfomance. Disc brakes would allow you to push it even farther in what the type of riding you do and skill level.
Hope this helped a little… 😀
-
If you are concerned simply from the monetary angle of things, I just upgraded to mechanical disc brakes on one of my rides and the grand total after all was said and done was just under $500.
I tried to stay mid-range on the prices of things (for the most part), and some trail and error caused some extra expenses, but here is my rough breakdown if you want it:
2007 Avid BB7 Mechanical x 2 – $120
SRAM Flak Jacket cables x 2 – $60
Mavic Crossride wheelset – $225
Brake Mount Adapter – 40
Assorted Cable mounts – $20I kept my existing XT brake levers. I did the job myself, not tough, but had to buy the lockring cassete remover, housing and cable cutters, and chain whip (they will run you anywhere from $40-$70 or so total depending on the design and brand of tools).
The cables I bought were to keep the cables internally housed from lever to caliper. I really like riding in the cold of winter – no crowds and messy to frozen conditions – so switching to disc and keeping the cables shielded from the elements were highest on the list. I ended up using most of the second cable set purchased (a $30 pair is meant to set-up both brakes). I chalk that up to a piss poor Sette/Torx brand cable and housing cutters (buy Park tools), my inexperience, and a poor design in regard to the part of the cable system designed to use your existing cable stops – the part where your cables are likely bare and exposed now under or on top of your top tube. The brake cable kit includes some adapters and red/pink tubing to internally house the usually bare parts of the cable between the cable stops. I didn’t like how it looked, nor the design of it. I scrapped that after I initially installed it (thus the second set of cables) and just ran cable along the frame the whole way for the rear brake. Much better looking, and easier to install.
The bike is a Fisher Sugar 2 FS, and the mounts on the rear are not directly compatible with the mounts of the brakes themselves. I chose to ebay it for the adapter that then allowed me to mount the brakes. You’ll likely save $40 there by not needing an adapter. You can still find older, new BB7’s (arguably the best mechanicals out there – I have a set on my hardtail 29er, which fueled choosing them for this project). I think I have seen them for under $50 each, and even at $40 or slightly below for older models. You can also spend $10 for just normal cable and housing, and save around $100 on a wheelset (trying to research and pick out a good wheelset that won’t cost you $400-800 dollars starts to suck quickly. If I would’ve spent more it would have been in this area, but I ended up with an ok wheelset for the price). A realistic grand total might be $250 or so for lower end with still new parts (with a cheap wheelset being the biggest place to save, but also the place to lose the most quality).
Except for one tool, I made my purchases entirely online. I swear, the LBS’s here just don’t get it when a customer walks in the door. It is like they don’t want to help you, nor stay in business so I oblige and take my money to PricePoint, JensonUSA, etc. Most shops will likely install these for free (or for a small charge) if you buy your stuff there, but I am trying to at least seem like I know how to work on my bike, even if it is something as simple as mechanical brakes. If I hear another half interested bike shop employee tell me that ‘we don’t carry that, but we can order anything’ while playing with their cellphone and not making eye contact I may never buy something from an LBS again.
-
I don’t have much to add other than say that what castnpedal describes is almost exactly the same as my own experience. I’ve got close to 8,000 miles on that setup and have been very satisfied with the results. If you are even moderately mechanically inclined then you should have no problem doing it yourself.
-
http://www.bayviewcycle.com/NewFiles/bi … _4300.html
This is my first google search at this bike I dont know much about trek but what it did tell me that buying this bike brand new is 639 with disc breaks and 509 for the whole bike without….so to me in my head it just doesnt make sense to put out that kind of money for disc brakes on a bike with marginal parts on it.
Also I have heard so many different times where people have put disc break adapters on there mtb that wasnt disc break compatible only to have it break because the bike wasnt made for that
What you should do..
http://www.bayviewcycle.com/NewFiles/bi … 6500D.html
Thats if your stuck on treck basically every fairly large brand, has a thousand dollar range that basically has around the same parts weather it be lx or xt derailers, hayes hydrolic breaks, rox shocks tora or Manitou Slate Comp. whatever, sell your bike or try for a trade in, if you can….and put the money into a new bike that will get you the component upgrade your craving.
Bayviewcycle.com just came up first when i typed in trek 4300 no idea who they are where they are…just an example.But again only my opinion.
-
Thanks for all the input guys. I think what I’m going to do is keep my current brakes. Financially I would be better off buying a new bike. I think I am going to ride this for another year or so and build up my skills and then buy a better bike with better components.
-
"TMCCORMICK" wrote
Thanks for all the input guys. I think what I’m going to do is keep my current brakes. Financially I would be better off buying a new bike. I think I am going to ride this for another year or so and build up my skills and then buy a better bike with better components.
Good choice. I think that in your case, its not worth the hassel, nor the money. Happy trails. Wow, that’s sounds kinda gay.
-
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.