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Well after reading all the comments on tubeless,ive decided to give it a try.Will pick up my Stans kit in the morning.I hope it works like the videos ive wathed.
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The first tire/rim mounting might take a bit, but the second one will go much more quickly after you get the technique down.
Coupla tips.
Use plenty of soapy water when seating the rim strip into the rim. It will make your life much easier in getting the strip uniformly stretched/centered.
Remove the valve core and inflate with an air compressor if possible. Much easier than trying to use the floor pump.
Be patient and do the soapy sidewall/shake the wheel/lay the wheel on its side thing several times.
Good luck! I love Stan’s.
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Yeh,I watched the video and changed over my front for thursdays ride(thought if i had to put a tube in it would be quick and easy)and it felt great @ 27psi.Did the rear yesterday,but havent be able to ride (the weather sucks).It was pretty easy. 😛
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First ride yesterday going tubeless felt good,but kinda squishy in the rear.Some sealer was coming out around the bead on hard turns.Rear tire was set @ 27psi.Anyone else have this problem,thinkn bout going to 30psi and see what happens. 😕
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Try 30 psi. Out of curiosity, what tire/rim combo?
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"8valvegrowl" wrote
Try 30 psi. Out of curiosity, what tire/rim combo?
Really? I run 27 with tubes…isn’t the whole point of tubeless to go even lower? I weigh 200 lbs with gear, by the way.
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Right, but if he’s running a tire with weak bead or sidewall, you will need to run more pressure no matter what.
For example, here are my current Stan’s setup:
Maxxis Ardent 2.4 on Forte Loco rims – 21psi rear, 23psi front (with tubes I ran 24psi rear, 27psi front)
WTB MutanoRaptor 2.4 on Forte Xenduro rims – 25psi rear, 27 psi front
The Mutano has a weaker bead/sidewall and the Xenduro is a narrower rim, hence, somewhat higher pressures. Most guys running Mutano’s with tubes around here are around 30psi.
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So if going tubeless results in higher pressure, I say…why bother (on that wheel tire setup)
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How do you figure? Last time I checked I can run 3-5 psi LOWER tubeless with the Mutano’s than my buddies with tubes. Plus, a glorious lack of flats all season long.
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"maddslacker" wrote
[quote="8valvegrowl":372gkywb]Try 30 psi. Out of curiosity, what tire/rim combo?
Really? I run 27 with tubes…isn’t the whole point of tubeless to go even lower? I weigh 200 lbs with gear, by the way.[/quote:372gkywb]
Yes, but you use those Velociraptor dinosaur things! Dude, get a real XC tire and then run tubed and tubeless and see the difference. -
"dozzerboy" wrote
Yes, but you use those Velociraptor dinosaur things! Dude, get a real XC tire and then
run tubed and tubeless and see the difference.Did you know that singletracks has a blog too? 😉
http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-ge … re-review/I ran them at 25psi on Slickrock Trail, and 27 on the rockier trails….zero flats…
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Sounds like some tires are better than others for the conversion kit tubeless.So what tirs are the best for use with the stans tubeless conversion kit?
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Maxxis and Kenda tend to have stout sidewalls and beads by all reports.
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Lower pressure=more rolling resistance? Just asking. 😄 Later,
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"fat_billy" wrote
Lower pressure=more rolling resistance? Just asking. 😄 Later,
To the OP: You using old tires? Might be time for a new set, with fresh unstretched beads.
Continentals and WTB’s work well w/stans conversion kits in my experience.
I just set up my first ghetto conversion, using a WTB LaserDisc rim, Gorilla tape, a valve cut out of an old tube, and a Specialized 2bliss (aka tubeless ready) tire. Got it mounted with a floor pump. First ride tomorrow…results to follow 😃
EDIT: Hey 8valve, why are you running more air in the front tire?
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There is no increase in rolling resistance. The biggest difference in lowering pressures is increased grip and the fact that the tire conforms to things on the trail with more suppleness which makes for a smoother, faster rides overall.
My bike dropped a pound of unsprung, rotating mass by going tubeless. The bike accelerates faster, handles more nimbly, and is easier to get over obstacles.
No way am I ever going back to tubes.
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Maddslacker, don’t knock it ’till you try it!
OP: Also, try not to use tire levers when mounting the tire. It can damage the bead.
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"dozzerboy" wrote
Maddslacker, don’t knock it ’till you try it!
What on earth are you talking about? I have decent XC tires, and I am converting them to tubeless next paycheck .. I just didn’t want to do it the day before heading to Moab last week.
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"dozzerboy" wrote
OP: Also, try not to use tire levers when mounting the tire. It can damage the bead.
Not if you’re careful.
Either way, starting near the valve stem, gently squeeze the beads together with your thumb and fingers so that the tire drops into the deepest part of the rim. Work your way up to the ‘top’ of the tire/wheel without losing what you already gained. This will get you the little bit of slack that you need for the last bit of bead to pop over the rim, usually by hand.
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Dgaddis, I run more up front on most trails I ride on, but sometimes I run equal or lower pressure up front, depends on the situation.
For most riding, it just feels more stable to me with my stance on the bike. Plus, my fork is pretty plush long travel (150mm) versus the rear travel (135mm), the front fork is also more linear, the rear shock is currently set more progressive. I find that the front tracks terrain well. I play with settings all the time to tailor it for my ride that day.
Another reason to run a little less in the rear is I prefer the feeling of a progressive oversteer situation, which a lower pressure allows. Makes for smooth drifting.
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Makes sense. I ride a hardtail, so I use more in the rear, more weight being carried there, no suspension to help out. I use the same air pressure regardless of where I ride. 22psi out back, 20psi up front, all day everyday. On a 29er, used more when I had my 26" bike.
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"maddslacker" wrote
[quote="dozzerboy":113i213i]Maddslacker, don’t knock it ’till you try it!
What on earth are you talking about? I have decent XC tires, and I am converting them to tubeless next paycheck .. I just didn’t want to do it the day before heading to Moab last week.[/quote:113i213i]
I was talking about going tubeless. Why are you talking like you know what it is like to run tubeless when you run tubes? Why not do it before moab? The ride would have been even better. -
It would have been completed the day before, and I don’t like to make major changes to my bike that close to a major ride or trip.
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Yeah. That would have been a little close to departure day. Just a little bit though.
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"steve32300" wrote
Sounds like some tires are better than others for the conversion kit tubeless.So what tirs are the best for use with the stans tubeless conversion kit?
Im running a Specialized Captain 2.2 on a Sun 1-xc rim.Called Stans yesterday and they suggested running rim strip type instead of just tape to get the tire to seat and stay seated.Hope to have it for the weekend.I think I’ll try 30 psi for todays ride though.
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"98special" wrote
[quote="steve32300":9g3cp74d]Sounds like some tires are better than others for the conversion kit tubeless.So what tirs are the best for use with the stans tubeless conversion kit?
Im running a Specialized Captain 2.2 on a Sun 1-xc rim.Called Stans yesterday and they suggested running rim strip type instead of just tape to get the tire to seat and stay seated.Hope to have it for the weekend.I think I’ll try 30 psi for todays ride though.[/quote:9g3cp74d]
More pressure wont solve the problem, but the rim strip will. I didn’t realize you were only using the tape.
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"8valvegrowl" wrote
There is no increase in rolling resistance. The biggest difference in lowering pressures is increased grip and the fact that the tire conforms to things on the trail with more suppleness which makes for a smoother, faster rides overall.
My bike dropped a pound of unsprung, rotating mass by going tubeless. The bike accelerates faster, handles more nimbly, and is easier to get over obstacles.
No way am I ever going back to tubes.
Those are heavy tubes you were running!
I’m interested in going tubeless once I have a nice set of tubeless ready wheels, but it’s not worth it for me at this point. I have cheap wheels, so upgrading those is a bigger performance priority for me than tubeless. I run low pressures already, if I ran any lower I would be hitting my rim constantly, so there’s no traction advantage. I’m a big guy guy on a hardtail, but I never get flats – really, I bring CO2 and tubes but I end up giving them to other riders who have flats. I can change a dozen tubes in the time that it would take me to set my wheels up for tubeless, so there’s no time savings. I use cheap tubes and don’t flat them, so there’s no dollar savings. And I’m not interested in frigging around with goo!
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Two downhill tubes (approx 425 g per tube) = 850 grams
Stan’s rim strips (80g per strip)
50g of sealant~1.4lbs of mass difference.
Downhill tubes were the only way I could run the pressures I liked with no flats.
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So yes 😛
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Yep, verrry heavy. It felt like it took forever to accelerate. It meant that you tried to keep your forward momentum at all times, though 😀
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If you screw up a tubeless you need a tube to get home. What does that mean? Just asking. 😄 Later,
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I can tell ya the feel is way better,more grip in the turns.I dont know if it feels any lighter on accelleration,only short rides so far but should on all day rides.I still have extra weight around my waist I could stand to loose. 😆
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"fat_billy" wrote
If you screw up a tubeless you need a tube to get home. What does that mean? Just asking. 😄 Later,
Same as if you screwed up a tube and needed to replace it, 😄 .hahahah,Not neccessarily deffending yet,just bought a stans conversion kit but havent installled quite yet.I carry a extra tube,pump,patch and sidewall patch kit anyway so if I gotta put a tube in my tire because of a cut sidewall then I’m just that farther ahead of running out of patches or tubes,makes more sense on longer rides I guess,but still leaves me lessl lilkely to run out of tire to ride on….
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