Technique/Tips/Skills for Aspiring Freeriders

Forums Mountain Bike Forum Technique/Tips/Skills for Aspiring Freeriders

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    • #100600

      [i:105ne6sj]To better understand freeriding, freeriding is a state of mind… a passion for discovering one’s limits, and then pushing those limits to take you to new heights (literally!). Freeriding can free you, at least for a while, from whatever balls you up during the day.[/i:105ne6sj]

      FREERIDING

      In general, there is no concrete definition for freeriding besides what is mentioned
      above (shortened to “FR”); it can be pretty much anything you want it to be. But it is
      generally accepted that freeriding includes foreboding terrain that may or may not have
      been spiced up with man-made stunts or features. These can include ladder bridges, teeter-totters, jumps, and drops (also known as “hucks”), but also might simply be downed trees
      or natural faces.

      In short, freeriding is mountain biking at the fringe or sometimes on
      the edge of insanity, and as such, it demands cutting-edge equipment and
      skills.

      GEARING UP

      Most FR bikes boast 5” to 7” of suspension travel, powerful disc brakes,
      and hugely fat (as wide as 2.6” tires) tires with monstrous,
      dirt-munching knobs. A handful of die hard’s swing their legs over
      hartail (also known “HT”) frames equipped with long travel suspension
      forks, but most rely on the increased margin of error, control, and
      comfort afforded by a rear shock. There are literally dozens of FR
      bikes on the market; choosing the right one for you is simply a matter
      of riding, riding, and some more riding. Most bike shops (well, the
      smart ones anyway) are not going to let you take a new FR bike on a test
      spin over terrain it’s designed for…..there is simply too great of risk
      of damage. Some bike shops do rent FR bikes, and if you hook up with a
      group of local riders, there should be plenty of opinionated advice.

      Another option is to modify your existing bike. Even if you have an old
      cross country (also known as “XC”) HT, you can realize dramatic changes
      in its handling over gnarly terrain simply by swapping out some key
      components:

      HANDLEBAR

      If your bike is currently equipped with flat handlebar (also known as
      “bar”), pull it off, and replace it with a riser bar that has at least
      1” of upward sweep. This will effectively reduce the height difference
      between your saddle and your bar, making it much easier to get your butt
      behind the seat on hyper steep descents. It will also give you more
      leverage on the front end in tight, technical terrain. Oh, and it might
      just eliminate that nagging soreness in the lower back like the XC
      riders commonly get.

      Another thing to consider when replacing your old handlebar is the
      width, because the width does affect your ride considerable. For
      freeriding or DH purposes, a wider 26” to 27” width bar works great and
      offers more stability and control, but not so much for XC riding. These
      wider bars slow down the input from hitting rocks, ruts, and roots at
      speed, but also for hard hits from jumps and drops as well. The wide
      bar seems to soften the hits because, while it is not something you
      would classify as flexy, the wider bar offers more give with the riders
      weight farther away from the handlebar. The biggest downfall to wider
      bars is that you scrape your hands on every bush, tree or rock face that
      may line a tight section of trail. As per climbing, usually a rider
      feels like they magically gain two horsepower when grabbing those wider
      bars and while powering up a climb out of the saddle.

      STEM

      Your choice of stem on a mountain bike determines you’re riding
      position, and that in turn has a big effect on the bike’s handling. If
      your bike is equipped with a long stem (90mm or more), pull it off and
      replace it with a shorter stem. FR, DH, DJ’s and 4X riders use short
      stems (80mm or less) to quicken steering, and to shorten the distance
      between saddle and handlebar, making it easier to get off the back of
      the bike. This makes them great for snap direction changes or
      controlling a sliding front wheel mid-race, but it can make the bike
      more of a hyperactive handful at high speed. Cross-country (also known
      as “XC”) racers tend to use longer stems (around 120mm) to increase the
      stretch in their position. Long stems also stabilize the steering of a
      bike, making it less keen to turn suddenly on tight singletrack but less
      nervous at high speed. It is recommended that you use a four-bolt stem
      though, but this is a controversial thing, as Easton makes some
      exceptional two-bolt stems.

      TIRES

      Outfit your ride with the fattest set of tires (usually between 2.35” to
      3” wide tires) that will fit, while still leaving enough space for mud
      clearance. On older XC bikes, you might not be able to go much wider
      than your current rubber. If you can fit 2.1” to 2.3” wide tires, do
      it. You’ll be amazed at the increase in traction, bump absorption, and
      overall stability and control with the fatter tires.

      BRAKE

      Many older frames are devoid of rear disc mounts. The secret is, that’s
      okay. That’s because almost all modern suspension forks are disc
      compatible, and since 80% of your braking power originates at the front
      brake, you can still realize huge benefits by replacing your front rim
      brake with a disc. Hydraulic (also known as “fluid”) models are best,
      but they are also the most expensive. If you’re just getting started
      and don’t want to spend a ton of money, mount on an inexpensive
      cable-actuated disc. You’ll still be blown away by the increase in
      braking power and modulation.

      FORK

      If your suspension fork has less than 4” of travel and you’re not
      racing, then now’s the time to upgrade. A good 4” to 5” travel fork
      will dramatically change the way you ride. Don’t go more than 5” of
      travel, though, unless your bike is designed for it. That’s because
      while the fork is built for big hits, your frame might not be. With the
      extra travel, you might be goaded into writing checks your frame cannot
      cash. So, the end results?? You’ll end up writing a real check…..for a
      new frame. Also, the tall legs of a long travel-travel fork will raise
      the front end of your bike, which reduces the head angle and makes the
      steering less responsive. To a point, this is good thing (especially on
      fast DH runs), but you don’t want to take it too far, or you’ll end up
      with slow, floppy steering that will make your bike hard to manage in
      technical terrain. In two words…..Not good!

      PEDALS

      If you’ve been riding with clipless pedals, consider swapping them for
      old-school, large-platform flat pedals without the toe clips. Sure,
      you’ll lose some pedaling power, but you’ll also gain the ability to
      instantly dab a foot on the ground should your freeriding antics go
      awry. Simply knowing you have this option will lend more confidence to
      your riding.

      CHAINRING (chainwheel)/CHAIN GUIDE/BASH GUARD SET-UP

      Most FR bikes incorporate some kind of single chainring with a
      chainguide and bashguard set-up even though some also incorporate a two
      chainring with a bashguard and quite possibly a chain tension set-up.
      For a single chainring set up, you could use either a 32T, 34T, or a 36T
      chainring for freeriding purposes, the 34T and 36T being the most
      popular of the three. Along with one of these chainrings, you will need
      to use a chainguide to keep enough tension and also keep your chain
      inline with your chainring. A chainguide eliminates the chain from
      jumping off and from chain slap. You will need to install a bashguard
      to protect your chainring as well. Now, for a two chainring set-up,
      either a 32T, 34T, or 36T chainring for the larger chainring and either a
      22T, 24T, or a 26T smaller chainring combination works great. You will
      also need to install a bashguard for this set-up as well, so you will
      have solid chainring protection.

      There you have it…..Your budget FR machine. Of course, there’s only so
      much you can do slapping parts on a bike that simply was not designed
      for the rigors of freeriding in the first place. It’s a bit like
      putting race fuel in a moped. But you might be surprised by just how
      much difference it makes (the bike tweaks, not the race fuel)….it’s
      certainly enough to let you know what all the hype is all about. And
      given that good FR bikes start out at almost two grand, it’s downright
      fiscally responsible!

      Hold on. Think about it for a moment…..What’s the most important part
      of any ride?? Hint…..It’s not on your bike. That’s right, were talking
      about you, about your flesh, bones, blood, and the grey matter. Of
      course, you already wear a helmet (well, I hope so anyways) every time
      you hop on you bike, but freeriding demands something more
      than an ultra-light XC helmet and a pair of spandex shorts, which offer
      a descent level of protection for buff singletrack but simply aren’t
      going to cut it when you are nosing your front wheel off a 10-foot
      cliff.

      Here’s what you will need:
      Full-face helmet
      Motocross-style chest and back protector
      Elbow/forearm pads
      Knee/shin pads
      Goggles
      Full-finger gloves

      TECHNIQUE & TIPS FOR ASPIRING FREERIDERS

      Now that you’re geared up, its time to have some serious fun and throw
      yourself off the nearest cliff, right?? Uh, sure! Just be certain your
      health insurance is paid up. It also might be a good idea to park a
      few paramedics at the bottom of the cliff. You know, for safety’s sake.
      Actually there’s a better idea…..Below is five great tips for
      achieving freeriding greatness or at least competence.

      1) HOW TO SURVIVE DROPS (HUCKS)

      Whether you’re dropping (also known as “hucking”) off a 6” curb or a 6’
      rock, the technique is the same. In fact, I encourage new freeriders to
      think of all drops as simply a big curb. The technique for riding
      drops is pretty simple. The problem is that people get freaked out by
      the height. So the best thing to do is to just think you are riding off
      a curb. Keep your speed steady, lean back, and let gravity do its
      thing. You don’t want to pull up on the bar too much, instead just lean
      back enough that your arms are nearly straight, but be sure to keep
      some bend in your elbows to help absorb landing shock. The other key is
      to land on the rear wheel first. “The flatter the landing, the sooner
      your rear wheel should touch down. If it’s a steep DH landing, your
      rear wheel should land just a moment before your front wheel.” Remember,
      have your shoulders squared off with the landing as you are getting ready
      land.

      2) HOW TO CATCH BIG AIR

      The allure of jumping is universal and timeless, and that’s why you
      should add this skill to your freeriding repertoire/game. Jumping is
      more complicated than dropping (even though people do think otherwise),
      simply because you have the uphill transition of the jump to consider.
      Many new riders on long-travel suspension bikes get themselves in
      trouble by approaching with too much speed, getting nervous, and then
      slamming on the brakes just as they reach the jump. This causes their
      suspension to compress and then release as they leave the ground,
      turning their bike into a big spring and tossing them high into the air.
      The end results can be carnage!! Instead, start on small jumps that
      don’t cause undue emotional distress. Start slow enough that you won’t
      feel nervous. Approach the jump with your arms loose and you eyes
      looking over the stem. As you leave the ground, gently pull the bike up
      toward your body and keep your eyes on your landing. Try to keep your
      weight centered over the bike. As with drops, you want your rear wheel
      to touch down first. If you don’t believe this, try landing on your
      front wheel. On second thought, lets not! As mentioned in the drops,
      always have your shoulders squared off with the landing when landing.

      3) HOW TO RIDE LADDER BRIDGES

      OK, this is not my strongest skill when it comes to skinnies, but I do
      love ladder bridges, so I borrowed this from freeriding great Richie
      Schly. Schley, who lives in Whistler, BC, and runs FR camps for all
      ages, is one of the original freeriders. Even as younger riders emerge,
      Schley remains relevant and often shows up the youngsters at
      competitions and exhibitions around the world. He is, in short, the
      Michael Jordan of mountain biking.

      Nothing says “freerider” louder and clearer than the ladder bridge. In
      the forest of British Columbia, some ladder bridges run for hundreds of
      feet, twisting and turning and even incorporating other stunts, such as
      drops and teeter-totters. Still, for the most part, ladder bridges
      demand more courage than skill. Think about it…..If someone asked you
      to ride on flat ground within two lines a foot apart, you’d have no
      trouble. Heck, you might even throw in a wheelie or two. But when
      those lines are elevated 10’ above the ground, it’s a whole new
      ballgame. It’s all about conquering the fear and not looking over the
      edge. Schley recommends starting on flat ground, either riding along
      the painted stripe at the edge of the road or along the yellow painted
      portion of the curb. “The key to learning ladder bridges is to ride the
      low stuff as if it were high and the high stuff as if it were low.”
      says Schley. In other words, when you’re on the ground (or close to
      it), try to pretend you’re 10 feet in the air and imagine that wavering
      from your chosen path will have serious repercussions. To keep from
      wavering, “always look at where you want to go, not where you don’t want
      to go,” says Schley. Try to block everything from your mind and vision
      but the terrain that’s immediately in front of your front wheel. As
      you work your way onto higher bridges, maintain the same focus and
      remember that the actual riding doesn’t demand great skill. The only
      real skill is to fool yourself into believing you’re on the ground. If
      you can do that, you’ll soon be a ladder bridge master.

      4) HOW TO RIDE STEEP SLOPES

      Like ladder bridges, steep slopes, whether they’re made of rock or dirt,
      typically bark worse than they bite. In other words, they just aren’t
      that difficult once you get your head around them. The trick is to drop
      in slowly, keeping your pedals level, maneuvering your butt well behind
      the saddle (Warning: You may get a bit of butt burn on the rear tire.
      Consider it a rite of passage), and feathering the brakes. If the
      transition out of the steep face is gradual, you can carry some speed,
      but if it ends abruptly, you need to proceed very slowly, or you’ll do a
      nosedive when your front end hits the compression. Proper braking
      technique is absolutely critical on steeps. Too many riders shy away
      from the front brake, afraid that it will send them hurtling over the
      handlebar. That will not happen, so long as you apply it slowly and do
      not do a “panic grab” on the brake lever. In fact, in many cases, it’s
      the rear brake you should be cautious with because of its tendency to
      lock the rear wheel, which can send you into an out-of-control skid.
      Again, your best and safest bet is to practice on shorter, less-steep
      slopes, getting a feel for the body position and braking technique.

      5) HOW TO FLY (RAIL) THROUGH CORNERS AT WARP SPEED

      Watching a top FR flow through a corner is like watching poetry in
      motion. It seems as if they hardly touch the brakes, and while most of
      us have to sprint like a bloodhound to regain the speed we lost. They
      rocket out of the turn. How do they do it?? It’s all about body
      language. First, you’ve got to look ahead. “The slower and sharper
      the corner, the more important it is to lead with your head.” Stick it
      out in front of your body a bit and keep your eyes locked on the exit of
      the corner. Everything your body and bike do will follow what you do
      with your head. Another critical piece of instructions…..keep your
      pedals level. This is harder than it sounds, as most riders tend to
      drop the outside pedal in fast corners. Keeping your pedals leveled at
      three and nine o’clock, respectively, provide better traction and
      improve reaction time. “When all your weight is on your outside pedal,
      it’s almost impossible to keep your body in line with your lean angle.”
      Although it feels more stable at first, you’re actually putting
      yourself at greater risk of losing traction and sliding your tires. If
      you keep your pedals level, your weight will automatically be centered
      over your bike side-to-side, and you’ll have much more traction and
      control. Plus, you’ll be able to pick up speed much more quickly coming
      out of the corner.

      There you have it. The basics of freeriding, but please understand that
      freeriding demands more than solid technique. Read on and for some
      great off-the-bike tips and you might find a surprise or two:

      Get Tough:

      “You are going to feel like everyone on the mountain is better and
      cooler than you. Heck, some of them might even tell you they are. Do
      not let them get you down, just concentrate on your own game and pretty
      soon you’ll be doing the same stuff as they are.”

      Gear Up:

      “If you do not pad up and protect yourself, you won’t get far. Unless
      it’s by ambulance.”

      Have Faith in your Equipment:

      “If you have a sick bike with 6 to 8 inches of travel, you should be
      able to land almost anything. Do not blame your equipment; instead,
      spend your energy working on your skills.”

      Embrace the Shuttle:

      “If you shuttle, you’ll get way more descending and your skills will
      soar. Do not stop riding uphill, though…..You’ll get to chubby to put
      your armor on.”

      Take a Riding Clinic:

      “Do you really think you know everything?? Of course not, so take a
      riding clinic and your skills will progress immensely.”

      Ride with people who are better than you:

      “It’s the best way to learn, but make sure to be the best on the ride
      sometimes, because you will need the confidence boost.”

      Don’t die wondering (this one is my favorite):

      “If you do not take chances, you will not know the outcome.”

    • #100601

      Thx soo much grat tips and what you should have, iv been on the web for hr trying to find info like thos, I have 1 queston tho, been riding for years now I hit big jumps and drops and want to start doing tricks. What tricks and how is a good way to learning tricks and practice. Thx

    • #100602
      "Ha_ha_693" wrote

      Thx soo much grat tips and what you should have, iv been on the web for hr trying to find info like thos, I have 1 queston tho, been riding for years now I hit big jumps and drops and want to start doing tricks. What tricks and how is a good way to learning tricks and practice. Thx

      Are you around other riders that throw in tricks or at least near a place where they do this? Like a bike park or a place where there is DJ’s.

      This is the best place to learn how to start throwing tricks in with your jumping or hucking. Start hanging with freeriders and watch and ask questions. The majority of freeriders are more than happy to welcome you in and show you some things, but you have to want to commit and go for it.

      For beginners, turning the bars RT or LT while in air is a start. A table-top or some form of tail whip is always good as well. Start learning hip jumps if you haven’t yet, they are fun and give you the feel of whipping. I do not know all the names to these tricks they do these days, but the main thing is to get with riders that do this and watch & learn from them, and then get out there and just do it. Practice is what makes you good bro!! Get over any fear and just let it ride….LOL. Good music helps as well, kinda gives ya a rhythm to work off in a manner of speech.

      Good luck bro and the best riding!!

      On-On!

    • #100603

      Thx bro, im from a lil place called tasmania off aus near new zeland. We have nice bush seance and sweet spots to build spots (wich are privet). A few tracks of our biggest mountian wich was built by pros but is more for ppl to feel for freeride then going beond your limets. As for riders Im I bit of a loan rider lol but I am trying to find more ppl that ride like me or better for that reason, my idear is to go to the community center and put up a flyer or program to help build a sweet as freeride trail, allways wanted to build one and it will b a gr8 thing for riders like myself to get together and have fun, most ppl down hear would have trails on there land tucked away just for them and ther m8s so I think but building one hope other ppl uncover what tracks there have, as for tricks iv just been watching youtube and dvds, thinking for finding a fome pit or building one to try out tricks lol. As you can c I think about freeriding 24/7 if I could. O and I was thinking of starting off with 360 spins ferst.
      Thx for evey think bro.
      On on what ever it means, bak to you bro.
      Ride hard or ride home 😆

    • #100604

      Hahahahaha….On-On just kinda means….."Let the ride ride, or other words….continue…."

      360 bar spins or bike spins bro? I can do the 360 bar spins on my little DJ, but not on my FR bikes (cable issues for that), but a 360 bike spin? Back in my day I was doing that on my BMX, but at 43 these days, I got to step down from some of that stuff, though not saying I couldn’t do it anymore, just would feel odd on my big steed. Being I am not getting any younger in physical age (got a heart of a 20 year old), I stick to the regular tricks but keep them mild, as I do not bounce back from injuries like I used to….LOL.

      Anyways, welcome to the forums bro, and glad to meet a rider from down under. Yeah man, I know what ya mean as per a loan rider, as I fit into that category. I get a lot of younger riders flocking around me though trying to learn something and a little old school stuff as well….LOL. It’s cool with me though.

      Anyways, yeah man, try to get with other riders like you, and learn from them, being young or old.

      On-On! 😄

    • #100605

      On-on bro and my that hart of yours ON-ON as well hahah, im only 23 and just got back into mtb due to money lol, but now bak on hit the big air and starting to get that feeling where you say, fuck this I want to do a 360 bike spin. I do keep thinking about doing back filps as I can do with out a bike, but I think its better to start lil like; the 360 bike spin, tailwipes and other lil tricks befor the big flip lol.

      Ill find riders soon as I will b building a track that will take sum time, only becouse of builing sweet big wooden jumps, dirt jumps, man made dorps, ladders the lot love to have sumthink that will push me to my limets to the piont I will camp the night just to hit the track asap lol love it.

      Im getting a helmet camra soon and ill get sumone tacking pics as well, and I will be posting them on hear, facebook and youtube, if I get lots of likes ill make a site of me and other riders that would like to post what thay do.

      bro you would have sum mad old school tricks up your sleave when you was a bit younger. Thx for your advice bro and yea as much as tassie h8s the manland (aus) but as soon as sumone arsk wher you from, you just say aussie m8 coz not alot of ppl know this beuitfully iland we have for MTB riding any style, better then the manland and the same as newzeland.

      On-on-bro on-on for life in your case lol

    • #100606

      That was the best instructions i have ever read.
      I used to ride on my property in Virginia when i was younger and i never knew the terminology or the diferent bikes available.
      I just biked through the woods, but now im definatly wanting to get back into it thanks to you bansai. awesome stuff!

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