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Anyone have this problem of the tire leaking from the carcass of the tire along the sides?
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Well i tried to add some tire slime to try and stop the tire leaking and still no good…..
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If by 2bliss, you mean tubeless then maybe. I had a problem similiar to this. However my rims and tires are not tubeless. Somehow, whether it was by scraping something like a root or the rim somehow dug into it, my tire developed a bulge. Which quickly progressed to the tire starting to unravel basically. It was right around the bead of the tire so I figured that the rim somehow started grabbing at it. I swapped the tire out for a stronger one, double layered kevlar, and then some other type of thick rubber layer over that. I also filed the rim just a hair to. I felt around it, and I came across a part of that actually cut my fingers. I figured that that wasen’t good, so I smoothed it out. No problems with it since then, that was about a month and half ago.
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Spaz, thanks for translation.
First off its not uncommon that tubless leak air, especially if the bike sits for a week or so at a time. The next question is what is your tubeless set up: UST, Stan’s or "Ghetto". There are a lot of things in your set up that can cause tubeless tires to leak. I’ve used green slime in the past and found it to be a bit over rated. Stan’s works very well as rim sealer, then super soapy water and finally green slime.
Regardless, soak the outside of your tire with really soapy water, to i.d. the leak. You should the soap get really bubbly near the leak. Then rotate tire so that your sealant is on top of the leak. Eventually it should seal, unless there is a problem with the tire or the rim.
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OK i said the carcass of the tire so basically everywhere along the sides not the bead….I have MAVIC SLR rims so they are UST…Anyhow the tire goes down 40 psi in about 24 hours….I have had many other UST tires and none did that..The actual tire is porous. I am wondering is it a bad set of tires or what..
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That’s the sidewall. Clean the slime out and try Stan’s. If Stan’s won’t fix it, then the tire is trashed.
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Yes! I have the same problem. The tire leaks THROUGH the sidewall-not at the rim. And it is the Specialized Captain Control. I bought two, one leaks and the other does not. It appears to be leaking through very tiny holes in the sidewall. Must be a manufacturing defect. The tire is new and has never been used. The Stans sealant is having a hard time keeping it sealed. I think I wll return the defective one tomorrow.
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I created an account here just to tell the OP "you’re not alone". My S-Works FasTrak LK’s are doing the same thing. I’m going to talk to the Specialized rep.
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I’m not 100% on this, so someone correct me if I’m wrong:
I don’t think 2bliss tires are UST. UST tires require no sealant. 2bliss means the bead is strong enough for the tire to be used tubeless, but the tire will need sealant. This is done to avoid adding extra rubber to the carcass (more rubber = more weight). Several companies take this approach, it makes the tire safe to use tubeless without adding much weight or spending money to get UST certified.
Leaking thru the sidewall is normal for non-ust tires. My Kenda Small Block 8’s were pretty bad about it, they even had some small pin holes in the side. Took them a while (several weeks) to seal completely. Stans should fix the problem.
Good article: http://twentynineinches.com/2010/01/26/ … editorial/
Doesn’t just apply to 29ers
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After much arguement with my local Specialized rep.. These are 2bliss… Not tubeless…It really is word play. The tires have the UST beads but REQUIRE sealant in them to make them hold air. Once you put 2.5oz of Stan’s you should be fine.. Now why go this way has to do more with less rolling resistance and better cornering rather than weight.
Cheers
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That’s what I thought, but wasn’t positive. Thanks for the info.
I think it’s a good way to do it honestly. Because really, who’s going to use any tubeless set up without sealant? Too much risk of a puncture IMO. Might as well make them lighter and faster.
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I haven’t rode tubeless yet and it seems as if I always hear so many problems with tubeless. Last weekend at the trailhead, a guy couldn’t ride due to problems with his tubeless tires. All his buddies rode off into woods as he sat back and watched. So my question is why go tubeless? Is the performance of a tubeless set really that much better? I mean, you avoid pinch flats, but still can still get flats right? Sealant is added weight? Seems like tubeless are more maintenance and set-up a bit of a pain and fixing flats are obviously a pain also. So do you see that much of a performance difference with tubeless?
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"joetutt" wrote
I haven’t rode tubeless yet and it seems as if I always hear so many problems with tubeless. Last weekend at the trailhead, a guy couldn’t ride due to problems with his tubeless tires. All his buddies rode off into woods as he sat back and watched. So my question is why go tubeless? Is the performance of a tubeless set really that much better? I mean, you avoid pinch flats, but still can still get flats right? Sealant is added weight? Seems like tubeless are more maintenance and set-up a bit of a pain and fixing flats are obviously a pain also. So do you see that much of a performance difference with tubeless?
It is 100% worth it. The benefits are lower rolling resistance, and low pressure capability. No flats is an added bonus. Weight isn’t an issue to worry about, it’s a wash. You lose a tube, but you add sealant and possibly a rim strip, so, it could go either way.
The lower rolling resistance comes from a reduction of friction. Without a tube, the tire is free to deflect and conform to the trail. A tube adds resistance to that.
The main advantage is the ability to use low tire pressure. You don’t realize how good this is until you try it. Before I converted to tubeless on my 26" bike I ran about 40psi in the tires. Went tubeless, and slowly started reducing pressure. At lower pressures the tire conforms to the ground better, which gives you a smoother ride and more traction, and less rolling resistance – win win win!
On my 26" wheeled bike I eventually settled on about 25psi front and rear, using 2.35" Kenda Small Block 8 tires.
On my new 29er, I can go even lower, since the contact patch is a little larger and the tire diameter is bigger. I’m using 18psi in the front (2.4" Continental Mountain King tire) and 21psi in the rear (2.1" Small block 8’s). Since my 29er is rigid, using really low tire pressure makes a huge difference in comfort and control, since my tires aren’t bouncing around as much.
The disadvantage, is it can be a pain to set up, especially if you convert non-tubeless rims/tires, which is what I did on my 26" bike. On my 29er however, I used Stans rims which are made to be used tubeless, and it was super easy. I can inflate a tire with a floor pump, whereas I needed a compressor on my converted wheels.
Also, in the two years I’ve been using tubeless, I’ve only had one flat. And that was because the sealant had dried up (it’d been in the tire for 7 or 8 months).
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Hey dgaddis thanks for the detailed response. I think I’m gonna have to really start thinking about trying tubeless in the future. Although some may have luck with converting rims, I would not want the hassles of converting, so when the time comes I’ll look at rims that are made for tubeless. Thanks again!
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