Some input would be nice

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    • #82428

      Hello all
      I am building a ’08 Kona Dawg Deluxe, I thought I would post a few of the parts I am planning on using and see what you guys think,

      Fork ’10 Fox TALAS 150 with Chris King Head set
      for the brakes I like Avid’s I was going to go with Juicy 7’s but the Elixir CR’s might be a good install.

      For the wheels I thought about building some with either King hubs or Hope Pro11 with either Stan’s Flow or Mavic 823 or 818’s.
      I could also go with FSA 15MM OR XC 150

      I want to go with Sram x9 or maybe x0 for the shifters and derailleurs and rear cassette.

      For the crank set I thought of going with Race Face Evolve or Deus.

      For the seat post either Race Face or Easton same with the bars and neck.

      Thanks for the input

    • #82429

      Sounds like it will be a pretty sick All Mountain ride when you get done. The Talas is seriously nice and super versatile. If you haven’t already picked out the wheels, go with the Hope Pro 2s and Stans rims.

      The Pro 2s are fully convertible to other axle systems UNLIKE the Chris Kings and you won’t have to sell your first born child to be able to afford them. 😀 The engagement isn’t quite as immediate as the CKs but the versatility more than makes up for it.

      As for rims, I think you meant 819s (don’t think there is such a rim as the 818), 823s and Flows. The 823s are boat anchors and unless you intend to mainly do DH or you are just [i:99l9ojdt]incredibly[/i:99l9ojdt] rough on your rims, I wouldn’t go that route.

      The Flows are intended to be Stan’s version of a DH rim as well. They’re a lot lighter than the 823s (470g vs 657g). At 470g, I wouldn’t call them boat anchors, but unless you plan on doing a LOT of hard downhill or freeride, you’d probably be better served with Stans Arch rims instead. They are more comparable to the 819s and are designed for aggressive trail/enduro use with a bit of small jumping and drops. At 420g per rim, the uphill sections of the trails won’t seem as draining and your legs will have a lot more juice left in them for the downhill parts. I have ridden setups with both the 819s and the Arch rims and the 819s have a TINY bit more lateral flex but the lower rim profile and weight reduction makes up for it in my mind (475g vs 420g).

      The only other thing I might suggest for your build up would be a nice adjustable seat dropper like the ones Crank Brothers and Gravity dropper makes. If I had an extra $200-300 it would definitely be included on my AM rig.

      Either way, sounds like you will have one hell of a ride when you are all done.

    • #82430
      I am building a ’08 Kona Dawg Deluxe, I thought I would post a few of the parts I am planning on using and see what you guys think,

      Fork ’10 Fox TALAS 150

      Your in luck dude,I have the 2008 Fox talas RLC on my bike and we can trade so that the year of your frame and your Talas fork will match……………Well,,,,,arent you gonna say anything???????hahahaahahaha.

      That is a really nice fork,it has 10mm more travel than mine,it has the fit damper system which mine does not,and the 15mm quick release which mine does not.I stll like my fork though,I got all the other adjustments you’ll have with this fork,it’s just that the new fox stuff is getting pretty darn nice.
      But I WOULD go with the Elixir over the 7’s.I have the 7’s and there nice and all,but like the fox fork thing,the Elixir have the tapper bore technology which I would have to believe is a pretty cool deal.Other than that,I could only suggest going with easton monkey lite bars maby,I’ve heard they are some really nice bars.Anyways,sounds like your having fun building a bike up,I’m building up a rigid bike and so far have a wheel set(s) already in place,and bought the magura brake set cujo had for sale here on singletracks.Keep us updated on your Kona bike build,there was someone just the other day asking why there arent any Kona peeps here on singletracks.

    • #82431

      GoldenGoose,
      Thank you for the input the Flows were a bike shops suggestion I don’t do any DH yet heck I still have a long ways to when it comes to skills yet, But I felt a AM bike fits me.

      Back to the Wheels a build with Stan’s Arch’s and Hopes is not that pricey, That just maybe the route I go. now to make sure I get the right size hub 100mm or 110mm for the front and 130mm or 135mm for the rear

      One thing I forgot was what Rotor size 160mm front and rear or bigger?

      A seat dropper is a good idea,

      Hey Steve, I was going to trade you my old forks off my Trek but I guess you didn’t get my email… 😀 Bob’s Bicycles has a pretty good deal on those 2010’s Fox forks
      I agree the Avid Elixir look to be the way to go, I rode a bike with Hayes and didn’t like them as well as the Avid’s

    • #82432

      As far as the front hub goes, just get something that holds the 15mm thru axle your fork comes with and you will be fine. The 15mm Thru axle is actually 100mm in length. The great part about the Hope Pro 2 front hub is that it converts to ALL the axle lengths and sizes with the various adapters. It can fit a 9mm wide quick release with 100mm length, a 15mm wide axle with 100mm, and a 20mm wide axle with 110mm. Justs depends on the adapter you get.

      I would bet $$ that your rear is a 135mm length hub. Almost all mountain bikes run this size other than a few older ones that have 130mm and newer downhill bikes that have 150mm.

      If you are going to set the bike up for All Mountain riding, go with a 185mm(7") front rotor or larger. You can get away with a 160mm in the rear but you might want a little more there as well. Lots of people run a 8"(~200mm) rotor up front and a 6"(~160mm) in the rear for trail and A.M. riding.

      As a side note…if you haven’t already purchased the ’10 Talas, make sure you get one with the proper steering tube size for your frame. The ’10 Talas has the two versions: one has the normal 1 1/8" steering tube and one has a tapered tube that is 1 1/2" at the base tapering to 1 1/8" at the top.

    • #82433
      Hey Steve, I was going to trade you my old forks off my Trek but I guess you didn’t get my email…

      hahahahahaahha,is bob’s bicycles online??Might take a look at the 2010 Talas.

      If you are going to set the bike up for All Mountain riding, go with a 185mm(7") front rotor or larger. You can get away with a 160mm in the rear but you might want a little more there as well. Lots of people run a 8"(~200mm) rotor up front and a 6"(~160mm) in the rear for trail and A.M. riding

      I have the 203mm rotor up front and the 185mm in the rear and would recommend the bigger rotors,works pretty good for control.

    • #82434

      Yeah Bob’s is online at [url:2l39vfj4]http://bobs-bicycles.com/[/url:2l39vfj4]

      I called Wheel World (where I got the frame) about the head set size just to make sure, And I have the Kona catalog with some specs but they leave a lot out.

      Thanks a whole bunch on the hub sizing and rotors. 😃

      The guys I work with think I’m nuts for spending this much on a bike that is not a Harley 😆
      Last night I priced out a set of wheels with King hubs the rear was at 600 and fronts at 350 😮
      With GoldenGoose’s input I was around 550 for the set using Hopes
      I will be getting the head set and hubs in blue to go along with Silver and black I would like to get the BB in blue as well black rims and spokes.

      Thanks guys for the help now if I can get this done before the snow flies

    • #82435
      rear was at 600

      The CK hub and whell build I had set up to buy was at $700,but I ended up with the DT Swiss 340 hub for $500.

      The guys I work with think I’m nuts for spending this much on a bike that is not a Harley

      Oh man,my boss always tells everyone I have more into my mtn bike than he does on his enduro motorcycle,hahahaaha,but then when I ridie my bike to work he always makes sure he show’s EVERYONE how my seat dropper seat post works,he’s like a little kid with that thing.hahahaahaha.

    • #82436

      Try these guys…

      [url:77wubc5g]http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx?CategoryID=752[/url:77wubc5g]

      You can make custom wheels with almost any part you can think of and it’s cheaper than buying the parts and making them yourself…trust me. 😉 (not nearly as fun though 😼 )

    • #82437

      I didn’t read everything sorry kinda tired I was out for 5 hours on the trails checking out 3 sets of tires..But did any of you guys consider the Havoc wheelset from Easton.. They already come with both the 20mm through axle as well as the QR9 adapters and these wheels are super smooth and tough. I was all over the place hitting rock gardens and drops and the such without even a hint of problems. Yesterday I was at Blue Mountain doing DH runs with the same wheels.. Yes I was using my all mountain on a DH run…It was ummm fun.

      Anyhow if you check out I think its Jenson / Wheelworld / or Pricepoint that have them on sale this month so they are really worth the money now.

    • #82438

      I might have over looked them if I didn’t see 15mm QR in the add, The Fox forks use the 15mm.

      How did the tire test go?

    • #82439

      The tires worked great I have to say both ITS (Intense tires) and WTB make some nice tires.

      The Havoc wheelset is also 15mm compatable…However that you need to purchase the adapter that is sold seperately.

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