Singletracks Mountain Bike News, Reviews, MTB Trails and Community › Protected: Forums › Mountain Bike Forum › shifting tips
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July 29, 2009 at 09:58 #81695
Sorry in advance if this question sounds a little elementary
I have been riding BMX bikes in the dirt for a long time and recently decided to take up XC MTB. I can get through the gears and all that but if anyone has any tips or do’s and don’ts they would be willing to share I’d appreciate it. I figured after knocking my chain off a couple times that there are some definite fundamentals that I should know.
Thanks
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July 29, 2009 at 11:49 #81696
when you say shift lightly, do you mean just pedal with less pressure?
I only shift one gear at a time, but is it possible to shift multiple steps at a time?The hardest for me is going from the middle to the largest sprocket on the front b/c I typically have to dowshift the rear at the same time.
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July 29, 2009 at 13:19 #81697
I wanted to be sure I understand you correctly so I put this diagram together.
Is this correct? It seems backwards to me.
Also I drew it up with an 8 speed cassette -
July 29, 2009 at 14:15 #81698
Alright I edited my original post. Please double check me.
Feel free to use as you wish. I’m not concerned about the credit. If it helps somebody else out all the better 😃
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July 29, 2009 at 15:32 #81699
Maybe I’m nit-picking, but, sometimes you really still have to worry about chainline cross issues with the outer rear cogs even if you are in the middle cog upfront. Frequently, if you are in 1, 2, 8, or 9 in the rear you will still get some chain rub against the front derailleur. It becomes more apparent with frames with shorter chainstays as the angle the chain has to move back and forth becomes larger.
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July 29, 2009 at 15:36 #81700
GG sometimes that is due to a miss alligned front derailleur or sometimes the front derailleur stop is incorrectly set. Both those issues are about 95% of the problems…
Chilly great stuff there with the drawings
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July 29, 2009 at 17:41 #81701"element22" wrote
GG sometimes that is due to a miss alligned front derailleur or sometimes the front derailleur stop is incorrectly set. Both those issues are about 95% of the problems…
Chilly great stuff there with the drawings
I think I have the freak bike!! I’ve had success getting the middle cog up front to shift through all the rear gears on some bikes but I have never gotten it working on my Liquid. For some reason, the best I can ever get is the middle 7 gears without rub. I’ve spent countless hours trying to get it right but 1 and 9 always have some sort of rub when I’m in the middle up front, no matter what. I measured the chain stays in relation to some of the other bikes I’ve had my hands on and it was a bit shorter so I always assumed that might be part of the problem. (But you probably know what they say about the word "assume". It makes an A$$ out of U and ME.) The good thing is, I can basically get the equivalent gear development by using different gear combinations in the front and rear so I’m not missing out on much. The "pro" mechanic I used to go to for my major issues took a try at it and said not to worry about it either since it shifts through everything else so smoothly and quietly. Leave it up to me to go out and fall in love with a bike that turns out to have such an odd quirk.
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July 29, 2009 at 17:57 #81702
GG actually I am on the way out right now but when I get back tonight I will type out the procedure that I use to set the front derailleur..
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July 29, 2009 at 19:31 #81703"element22" wrote
GG actually I am on the way out right now but when I get back tonight I will type out the procedure that I use to set the front derailleur..
Let me know if you have something different. I would appreciate it! I pretty much try to go by what I’ve read on Parktool.com, Sheldon Browns site, and my bike repair books.
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July 29, 2009 at 22:59 #81704
OK to start release the cable from the front derailleur.
Then looking top down the derailleur cage should do two things.
1. It should run parallel with the chainrings.
2. It should be set so that there is 1mm between the cage and the chainLooking from the side.
1. shift it into 2nd ring and look at the space between the cage and the large chainring. It must be between 1 and 3mm spacing
Now before attaching the cable turn the adjuster all the way in then turn it out three turns..Attach the cable and lube all the pivot points on the derailleur..
Now once the cable is attached, turn the crank and try to shift into 2nd ring. Once it shifts now you can fine tune it so that when you shift in the middle gears ( if you have 9 at back I am talking about the middle seven) the cages don’t touch.
Try that then let me know
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July 30, 2009 at 14:42 #81705
I’ve got those middle seven right now. I can’t ever get the 1st and 9th gears in the rear when I’m in the middle. Suggestions on those?
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July 30, 2009 at 19:06 #81706
In the middle to be honest …Don’t touch it.
When your in the middle ring those are the only you should be in otherwise you are just causing the chain to defect too much..
If you refer back to a previous post that Chilly posted with the pics. that pretty much nailed which gears you should be using
The small ring should use the last 7 gears on the cassette
The middle should use the middle 7 gears on the cassette
The top should use the first 7 gears on the cassette
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