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Can someone please explain (in simple terms) the difference in ring sets? One bike has a 44/32/22 and the other has a 40/30/22. I understand it is a tooth count, but what is the difference as far as performance? Thanks
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Hello there!
The smaller the count on the front rings, the slower the speed and easier the pedaling. The difference between the two sets you listed is that the 22/30/40 is a tighter group and will result in a slower max top speed and a slower and easier to pedal middle ring.
Here’s what you really need to know, however. Triple cranksets (those with three rings) have fallen out of fashion for the very simple reason that there’s a huge amount of overlap and redundancy in gearing and a select few need a 44 tooth ring in the woods. Most people never use the top ring and it gets used only as a bash guard. The ring you really want to pay attention to is the middle ring, since that’s where you’ll spend most your time. A 32 ring will give you a bit more top end and would be the one I suggest for greater range. Since the low is a 22, I’d love to see a 34-36 middle and just swap the top ring out to a bash guard.
Most people have moved to a 2x crankset and even 1x. I would personally only suggest a 3x setup for someone who would also be using the bike for something else like commuting or getting around on campus(very quickly).
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Since the low is a 22, I’d love to see a 34-36 middle and just swap the top ring out to a bash guard.
What Schwim said! (If I even quoted it?)
My Stumpy FSR came with a 36/22 and a built-in bash guard. I loved that setup! It had enough top end so I could get up and move when on rail trails or *shudder* pavement and the 22 was super low so I could crawl up damn near anything!
When bouncing between the two rings, there were quite a few makeup shifts, but once I got the hang of it it was no problem.
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Great answer schwim!
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Yep, schwim gave a great/simple explanation of something that can seem complicated.
Erlstn – From your post it sounds like you may be considering a couple bikes with different 3-ring setups. If you buy one of them, and after you gain some experience & confidence on the bike, pay close attention to which ring you use the most. I switched to a 1X set-up (32 works for me & the trails I ride) this past year b/c I was on the middle ring about 80% of the time. By removing the shifter, front derailleur & 2 rings I reduced some weight, greatly simplified my shifting, eliminated some parts that I never have to worry about servicing or replacing & cleaned up the look of my bars & bike. It also forced me to get stronger b/c I could no longer take the easy route & drop down to the 22 ring. You’ll be amazed to find how quickly you progress when the crutch isn’t there. The only (minimal) downside so far has been when I’m on a road en route to a trail and run out of gears. If I was racing and really needed to be able to crank at times I’d probably run a second ring. Just something to think about…not saying this is THE way for everyone or in all circumstances.
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http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/
Try this online calculator. You can enter the gears you have currently, and then compare the ratios for those gears to other other options. It really boils down to figuring out what range you really need. What is the fastest you are really going to pedal (Coasting downhill does not count), that will determine what you need on one end of the range, and what gearing do you need to climb the steepest parts of the the places you ride. With the larger cassettes, 9, 10 and now 11 speeds, and wider ranges going up to 40, 42, 45 teeth, many riders are finding they can get all the range they need with only 1 chain ring up front. For some though that won’t give them enough range in their gearing.
I am very happy with a single chain ring up front and no front derailleur to deal with.
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