-
Posts
-
-
About to switch from 3×10 sram to X0 2×10 on a 26er…anybody switch recently and have any thoughts…I’m not a Pro or anything but a pretty serious rider so I am hoping it wont be too dramatic of a switch.
-
Hi Martino
If your going true 2X10 that being the proper crank setup and not the 3×10 minus a ring….
Your going to need a new crank and front derailleur and front shifter….In the parts manual from Sram those are different part numbers.
So for XO you will need:
Shifter pod LHS 2X10
XO 2X10 Crank….Ratios 26-39 or 28-42…(( i use the 26-39 on my trail bike))
Xo 2X10 Front Derailleur (specify clamp) (hi,low, top or bottom pull) -
I made the switch recently, though I went the other direction (from 1×9 to 2×10).
But based on my earlier experience going from 3×9 to 1×9, I can tell you it will take some getting used to. Obviously you won’t have as many easy gears to rely on for steep climbs and at first you may find yourself walking stuff you used to be able to grind. Just be patient – after a few months you’ll be riding the same stuff as before but you’ll be riding it faster!
At the other end of the spectrum, the big gears should be pretty comparable to your 3×10 set-up, though you may see a *slight* drop at the high end. Most of us don’t stay in those gears for long anyway – if you notice at all it will be on flat, paved rides.
I’ve never ridden single speed but I imagine it’s kinda the same initial adjustment. At the end of the day it’ll make you a stronger rider (and bonus: your bike will be slightly lighter!).
-
[quote="trek7k"]I made the switch recently, though I went the other direction (from 1×9 to 2×10)……quote]
If you dont’ mind me asking Trek7k, but why did you go from a 1×9 to a 2×10?
To Martino0626, I had a 3×9 on my Jamis and I felt like I never used anything but the 2nd chain ring. So when I bought my Niner Air9 I had a 1×9 put on it and I love it. It took some getting used to but overall I am very pleased. However, the other day I was at Patapsco Valley and I was wishing I had a 3×9 because some of those hills kicked my butt.
John
-
I do miss my 1×9 set up in some ways but the SRAM 2×10 drivetrain is pretty sweet. Those extra gears (on the high end) definitely come in handy on rides where I’m connecting singletrack sections on the pavement or forest roads. And in the mountains I have to admit I do make use of the lower gears too.
Maybe one day I’ll compromise and go 1×10. 😀
-
I’m actually planning on dropping my big chain ring in favor of a bashguard for this next season. I know it’s not a true 2×9 set up per se, but I so seldom use the big ring out here in the mountains that I’m pretty sure I won’t miss it.
-
"maddslacker" wrote
I’m actually planning on dropping my big chain ring in favor of a bashguard for this next season. I know it’s not a true 2×9 set up per se, but I so seldom use the big ring out here in the mountains that I’m pretty sure I won’t miss it.
I have been thinking the same think for some time now, but I havn’t acted on it…let me know how it works out.
Sidenote…I am glad this post has started…I just built up me bike with old components that I have and I am upgading as the money comes availiable, I was thinking going Sram 2X10.
-
Well….Here in the south there are no mountains and the hills that are here dont require a small ring just momentum. And thanks element I realize that I need the 2×10 XO package which I will pick up at my LBS. Too bad that the XO package is $1500 that alot of cheese but should be worth it.
-
Hi Martino
Your welcome…If you have any further questions don’t hesitate to ask or PM me…Just remember to follow all the literature or check Sram online for details on installation.
-
"element22" wrote
Hi Martino
Your welcome…If you have any further questions don’t hesitate to ask or PM me…Just remember to follow all the literature or check Sram online for details on installation.
Thanks again I will… my LBS will definitely install this stuff I learned the hard way about not going thru the LBS on big purchases and installs…My first bike was bought off the internet.
-
Glad to see this discussion thread since this is what I am looking into for the next bike.
I am currently riding a 3×8 Giant Yukon disc ’09.
So far I have found it adequate for my riding, but tuning the FD is a major headache!
I have yet to succeed in eliminating the chain rubbing the FD cage at any gear ratio!Will a 2×10 logically eliminate tuning problems since there is one less ring?
I belong to the "simple is better" side & would stick to hardtails, mechanical disc & lesser gears if it can achieve the same outcome with lesser headaches! Afterall, I’d rather spend 2 hrs riding than 2 hrs trying to get the rubbing chain off the FD.I am eyeing the 2011 Jamis Durango 3 that is running SRAM X7 3×10; hope to snag a bargain later in the year; or would it be better to run this in 2×10?
-
Agreed, I’d much rather spend time riding than tuning and derailleurs are my least favorite bike part (maybe I should go single speed!).
After riding 2×10 for the past several months I haven’t had issues with FD chain rub except at my largest cassette ring (and only on the big crank ring). With a little tuning I think I could eliminate it altogether but somehow I usually end up making things worse when I try to do it myself. 😀
-
Wow, my front derailleur is the one thing that hasn’t ever given me any grief.
The XTR rear one though…what a pain. (bent hanger, worn cassette, wrong length cable) After all those tweaks, it finally does work correctly, although the XT on my hardtail is ironically crisper shifting and never needs adjustment…go figure.
-
A lot of it has to do with the chainline….Some are better than others. With most FD’s though it is a matter of proper set up and know which gear combinations you can use and which you cannot (not suppose to). In a 3 ring set up it is important to set the limit screws correctly… The middle ring is adjusted solely on cable tension.
The best method to adjust the FD is to have the lower limit set properly so that when you drop into that ring it drops quickly and has about 0.5-1mm spacing from the chain and the cage of the FD (when in the biggest rear cog). Do this adjustment with the cable off.. Then set the upper ring the same way with the limit screw…..
Before attaching the cable, turn in the tension adjuster on the shifting pod all the way in and then 2 1.5 turns out. Then attach the cable but don’t pull it tight when tightening it down.At this point you can start adjusting tension…Usually do it with a quarter turn on the adjuster at a time in or out depending where it is rubbing…..have the bike in the air and crank while shifting into the middle ring…If it takes to long or not shifting turn out the tensioner quarter turn at a time…If it goes into the middle but then the inner cage is rubbing then there is too much tension (turn the adjuster in)…
This should get you going well.
With a 2X system its a matter of just setting the limits properly.
-
That’s (one of the reasons) why I like GripShift (RIP!!!!) – it lets you trim the FD.
Long live gripshift!!!!!!!!! Bring it back SRAM!!!
-
"dgaddis" wrote
That’s (one of the reasons) why I like GripShift (RIP!!!!) – it lets you trim the FD.
Long live gripshift!!!!!!!!! Bring it back SRAM!!!
And trigger shifters don’t allow this?
-
"maddslacker" wrote
[quote="dgaddis":zojcork6]That’s (one of the reasons) why I like GripShift (RIP!!!!) – it lets you trim the FD.
Long live gripshift!!!!!!!!! Bring it back SRAM!!!
And trigger shifters don’t allow this?[/quote:zojcork6]
Not the ones I’ve used. With a gripshift front shifter (for a 3x system) instead of there being 3 indexed points (one for each chainring) there’s something like 9 (not sure of the exact #, been a while since I used it). So when you’re in the middle ring you can use 3 of those positions to mico adjust the FD depending on which part of the cassette you’re using. It also means the system doesn’t need a 100% perfect set up/tune. It works kinda like a friction shifter with ‘soft’ indexes if you will. I know of a few folks using an old 9spd gripshifter on a new 2×10 systems even.
Are there any triggers that will let you micro adjust like that?
-
twist shifters are still around but in 9spd.. Not 10…
-
My front trigger shifter has a barrel adjuster for fine tuning, just like the rear.
-
"maddslacker" wrote
My front trigger shifter has a barrel adjuster for fine tuning, just like the rear.
Right, but you can’t easily adjust the barrel adjuster on the fly, without stopping. You gotta loosen the lock nut, adjust the tension where you want, then tighten the lock nut back up. Plus, messing with the barrel adjuster may effect shifting one direction or the other.
But with gripshift you’ve got several ‘positions’ for each chainring, and you select those positions with the shifter, not the barrel adjuster. So you can do it on the fly, even when out of the saddle and hammering, and still be able to shift to the next ring without any issues.
-
I don’t know if this is legit or not but I can "nudge" the FD on my trigger shifter by pushing forward a bit without "clicking." This is esp. true on my road bike.
-
That works on mine too, for the front, not so much on the rear.
-
"trek7k" wrote
I don’t know if this is legit or not but I can "nudge" the FD on my trigger shifter by pushing forward a bit without "clicking." This is esp. true on my road bike.
yeah ive done that a few times on mine
-
"dgaddis" wrote
[quote="maddslacker":3uf99gej]My front trigger shifter has a barrel adjuster for fine tuning, just like the rear.
Right, but you can’t easily adjust the barrel adjuster on the fly, without stopping. You gotta loosen the lock nut, adjust the tension where you want, then tighten the lock nut back up. Plus, messing with the barrel adjuster may effect shifting one direction or the other.
But with gripshift you’ve got several ‘positions’ for each chainring, and you select those positions with the shifter, not the barrel adjuster. So you can do it on the fly, even when out of the saddle and hammering, and still be able to shift to the next ring without any issues.[/quote:3uf99gej]
I can… And I have never seen a "lock ring" on shifters. The barrel adjuster has "clicks." -
Yeah, my barrel adjusters don’t have lockrings either, but the have distinctive clicks at about 1/4 turn.
-
Talking about Shifting stuff…The bikes design has to play a role. I had a Haro Xeon with this really complicated rear suspension set up and it constantly had shifting issues especially the FD but I switched to a Titus FSR design and I havent had the shifting tuned in over 6 months and its still as crisp and dialed-in as one off the show room floor.
-
"element22" wrote
A lot of it has to do with the chainline….Some are better than others. With most FD’s though it is a matter of proper set up and know which gear combinations you can use and which you cannot (not suppose to). In a 3 ring set up it is important to set the limit screws correctly… The middle ring is adjusted solely on cable tension.
The best method to adjust the FD is to have the lower limit set properly so that when you drop into that ring it drops quickly and has about 0.5-1mm spacing from the chain and the cage of the FD (when in the biggest rear cog). Do this adjustment with the cable off.. Then set the upper ring the same way with the limit screw…..
Before attaching the cable, turn in the tension adjuster on the shifting pod all the way in and then 2 1.5 turns out. Then attach the cable but don’t pull it tight when tightening it down.At this point you can start adjusting tension…Usually do it with a quarter turn on the adjuster at a time in or out depending where it is rubbing…..have the bike in the air and crank while shifting into the middle ring…If it takes to long or not shifting turn out the tensioner quarter turn at a time…If it goes into the middle but then the inner cage is rubbing then there is too much tension (turn the adjuster in)…
This should get you going well.
With a 2X system its a matter of just setting the limits properly.
Thanks for the detailed explanation.
I had pretty much done all these from instructions culled from the videos I found online.
After various attempts, I found that the position of the FD on the seat tube determined the success of the tuning. Anyone has any suggestions in determining the precise placement? i.e. in moving the FD up & down the tube, how do you determined the best position? Placed too low & you risk hitting the big ring; too high & you can’t shift higher gears etc.
Thanks in advance. Happy riding. -
Check Sram service page and look for the document…Frame Fit specifications it has the exact placement there for you…Or remember that you need a gap of 2-3mm from the top edge of the chainring to the bottom edge of the FD`s outside plate.
-
"trek7k" wrote
I don’t know if this is legit or not but I can "nudge" the FD on my trigger shifter by pushing forward a bit without "clicking." This is esp. true on my road bike.
Yeah me too. A little push and I can usually get the chain to go if its not cooperating.
-
Okay, I got the Sram XO 2×10 and the upgrade cut any entire pound off my bike and I have ridden one trail on it for a brief moment and it wasnt that big change…the shifting is crisp and FD is perfect no rub and NO WAITING for the shift to happen which is the biggest selling point. I love it…I envision every MTB coming off the showroom floor with 2×10 drivetrains. The only disadvantage I can see is since the big ring on 2×10 is smaller than the typical 3 ring setup on long flat runs you wont get the same top speed. I will sacrifice a little top speed for the 10spd setup
-
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.