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i have been looking at a trek 4300 priced at $550, then there is a trek 4500 disc for $750. would this be a good buy? what would you recomend for someone new to mountain biking.
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If I were you, I would look at the equivalent gary fisher bike. The GF Marlin is a better buy for the money. The main differences are the G2 geometry and great looks of the marlin. http://www.fisherbikes.com
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Need a little more info…
Can you link the specs for both?
I can’t find the 4500 in a disc version listed on the Trek website, only the 4300 disc.
Given a choice between 4300 in the disc and nondisc versions I would grudgingly pay the extra money for the disc if I had the money. The disc brakes should provide a noticeable difference in stopping power and the disc specific hubs that you will get with the wheels will allow for future brake upgrades. Then again, the bug may hit you and you might want to buy an entirely new bike in a year or two.
Does the 4300 have an option to come with disc ready hubs with the normal v-brakes or just normal hubs with v brakes?
If disc hubs with v brakes were an option I’d probably go that route until I figured out if I really liked riding the bike. If I found out I really liked riding, I could upgrade to disc brakes later since I already had the right hubs. You can probably buy nicer disc brakes later on for close to the same amount of money you would save up front. The difference in stopping power, while noticable, won’t be so huge that you will not enjoy riding [i:1rnwoynt]because[/i:1rnwoynt] of the brakes. A friend of mine went this route with his 6500 and was pretty happy that he waited. Now he [i:1rnwoynt]knows[/i:1rnwoynt] that he likes riding a lot and he also got some WAY nicer brakes than the stock brakes he would have gotten.
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Welcome to Singletracks, Marine181!
I agree with Flamdrag8; if you can afford it, starting with a Gary Fisher is a good step.
Bear in mind that it’s always more expensive (often a LOT more) to upgrade an entry-level (or low-grade) bike than it is to buy one already fitted with good components.
Upgrading a base-model hardtail with a mid-range drivetrain, brakes, and wheels will be at least $350-$500. And that’s not including cockpit components, tires, pedals, and a better fork. All that stuff can easily cost another $500, give or take $100.Meanwhile, many of the quality MTB manufacturers make bikes already set up with mid/high-end components for half (or less!) of what it’d cost the customer to buy upgrade parts at retail prices. Good examples are the Gary Fisher Tassajara or Diamondback Sortie-3.
Or instead of buying a brand-new bike, try looking for used ones. There are those of us who are really serious about mountainbiking that trade in our rides every year for the newest models. LBSs’ will often have trade-in bikes that are a year or two old, and can be priced at up to 1/2 off what they sold for new. Components from a couple years ago are just as good as what’s out now, and in some cases this year’s mid-range parts are last year’s top-end parts (the ’08 SRAM X-9 derailleur is basically ’07’s XO!).
I’ve seen bikes that sold for $3000 in ’06 being listed for $1200 this year, and there’s nothing wrong with them.Good luck!
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I agree with the Gary Fisher recommendation. I was in your position not too long ago and I went with the GF Marlin and absolutely love it. I also recommend AGAINST the Marlin Disc. The discs it comes with are mechanical, rather than hydraulic…so in my opinion, you’re better off going with the v-brakes (which are really good quality on the marlin) & saving to get a good set of hydraulic discs later on. Also, the Marlin comes with disc-ready hubs, so the upgrade should be much easier. Hope this helps. Good luck.
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Aside from the Avid BB7s, mechanical disc-brakes are pretty much ineffective. Those from Shimano are marginally ok, but the Hayes & Tektro are bad with Tektro’s being the worst.
Avid’s BB7 mech brakes are actually better than many of the cheapie hydraulic brakes. But with older model hydro brakes becoming so cheap, it’s really pointless to stick with V-brakes or mech disc brakes. For example, the Magura Julie is one of the best base-model hydraulic brakes on the market, and they’re selling for $70 each ($140 together) on CBO. In fact, the Julies would be at home on any high-end XC bike for their light weight & stopping power.
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"Bombardier" wrote
Aside from the Avid BB7s, mechanical disc-brakes are pretty much ineffective. Those from Shimano are marginally ok, but the Hayes & Tektro are bad with Tektro’s being the worst.
Avid’s BB7 mech brakes are actually better than many of the cheapie hydraulic brakes. But with older model hydro brakes becoming so cheap, it’s really pointless to stick with V-brakes or mech disc brakes. For example, the Magura Julie is one of the best base-model hydraulic brakes on the market, and they’re selling for $70 each ($140 together) on CBO. In fact, the Julies would be at home on any high-end XC bike for their light weight & stopping power.
I got to disagree with you a little bit on something. The Hayes Mechanical brakes have worked great for me, and I prefer there Hayes Strokers over Juicy.
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i really like my gary fisher hi fi+, which was more than you’re talking about spending, but an overall endorsement of Fisher in general. but if you could stretch the $ a little further, you might want to consider one of these used bikes. by all accounts, these are great bikes. i actually just rented one in boulder last week and it was very good.
http://www.westernspirit.com/used-speci … bikes.html -
I would try out as many bikes possible in your price range from more than one LBS. I bought my first bike in 16 years this past spring. My budget, under $600. I went with a Giant Yukon. I felt the most comfortable on it. Most of the bikes in that price have similiar componets. I would personally look for one with disc brakes and a known shock.
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Once I heard your topic, I was like, "finally someone with a topic similar to mine". I just bought my first real mountain bike three months ago. I purchased a Specialized HRXC (Cross country), with full discs. It’s hella fun hittin’ some trails. I also, just recently purchased some bar ends which really helped with my last trail at Folsom. Good luck and hope to hear back.
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"fattyclark" wrote
I got to disagree with you a little bit on something. The Hayes Mechanical brakes have worked great for me, and I prefer there Hayes Strokers over Juicy.
I’m going off the four bikes I’ve tested with Hayes mech brakes; they were not up to task, but were definitely better than the Tektros.
I’ve not tried the Strokers yet, but I wouldn’t doubt they’re more effective than Avid’s Juicy 5 & 7’s….. never had a good experience until after adjusting the snot out of them.
"jbronko1" wrotei really like my gary fisher hi fi+, which was more than you’re talking about spending, but an overall endorsement of Fisher in general. but if you could stretch the $ a little further, you might want to consider one of these used bikes. by all accounts, these are great bikes.
You’re quite right about the Hi-Fi. I’m not a big fan of the redesigned frame and haven’t ridden one yet, but I love the prior Hi-Fi’s. The Fisher G2 geometry is no marketing ploy; it really does make a huge improvement in the bike’s handling over their older Genesis geometry.
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