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So I get half way through my usual ride out at Flat Rock and as soon as I get done with a really awesome downhill section I notice that my left pedal is about to fall out but it won’t. The only thing that I figure is that there was one good size hop down the whole thing and that was just about it, the rest of it is relatively smooth and consistent in this portion of the trail. So the next day I tried taking it out to really see what’s going on with it and that thing just spins. It won’t go back in and won’t come out. Also, it wobbles with the touch of the finger. So, have now come to the conclusion that the crank arm is stripped; out. My pedals are Wellgo platforms, don’t know the exact ones, and my present crank arms are FSA Alpha Drive. The arms are what was on there from the factory, and I think that they are made of aluminum, yuck.
I have decided to just get some new cranks arms but my question is which crank arms would be compatible with the my current BB and spindle. I don;t know what you call it but its the type spindle that looks like a hex bolt on ends and going all the way through.
Any help or advice is much appreciated. Thanks.
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Yeah, but I was trying to find some cranks arms that would help prevent this from happening again. I know that I didn’t cross thread them when I put them together. Nor did strip it by tightening it to much. The only thing that I could think of was that when I came down really hard that it may of put so much stress on the threads that it made the pedal shank move some odd way ripping the threads out. I mean, inside there it is completely smooth. Its as if there were never any threads there and somebody stuck a grinding wheel in there and polished it smooth. I think that I need some stronger, and different material crank arms. Any recommendations that would comply with the setup that I have. I am sorry, but when it comes to matching a crank arm to another I have a hard time knowing whats right and good at the same time.
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I’m still not sure what is broken here. Many crank arms actually have two pieces. The crank arm and a grommet like deal that sits in the crank arm and has threads. Some of those grommets are pressed into place and others are screwed. I am not sure which way FSA does theirs or if your alpha drive crankset has the grommet. That grommet coming loose, however, is not unheard of. If that grommet has has been pressed into place and worked loose, then it should go back to FSA as a manufacturers defect. It’s not supposed to happen. This is a defect, so if they won’t fix it and you went out and bought the same type of crank arm to replace it would probably never happen again.
From what you have described is sounds like you have standard ISIS bottom bracket. So buy crank arms to fit that. Although, if you buy a crank set with outboard bearings, the bearings normally come with the crank set. As ‘goose said aluminum is pretty much the standard in the MTB world. Aluminum cranks work on my DH/FR hardtail (FSA’s actually), so unless you are riding a lot Urban Assault or need to shed some serious weight to get on the podium come race day, the aluminum is the only cost conscious way to go.
As far as why they broke you would have to be more detailed as to a "really awsome downhill" and "one good sized hop." Because, I would expect to break an XC crank set with my definitions of those terms and I make a concerted and, all but always, successful effort to never go higher than I am tall. Also, defining those terms might help point you to a crank set more fit to your riding.
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The hex bolt you mentioned makes me think you have a square taper bottom bracket. Normally they have a hex bolt that you have to pull out and then you use your crank puller to get the arm totally off. The ISIS brackets that I have come in contact with didn’t have a hex bolt but had a round crank arm fixing bolt.
You could pretty much put any square taper crank arm from FSA on that setup. If it is an ISIS, you would subsequently need an ISIS arm for it to fit. You can probably look up your bike by year/make/model and figure out what’s onboard before you tear it apart. If it’s older, try bikepedia.com. You could probably find a cheap replacement on ebay once you know the model.
Without seeing a picture of the pedal and crank arm it’s hard to guess what caused it to strip.
Good luck getting her back riding.
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Thanks for all the help. To elaborate on the grommet piece… I think that it may be one that has them pressed. They didn’t work themselves loose thay are stripped clean of the threads inside that the pedal normally uses to screw in. I checked ebay yesterday and couldn’t find anything worth looking into. However I did manage to find one place online that sells a full line of FSA cranks parts. They the exact crank arms that I have but for this year instead of 07. I’m sorry that I didn’t explain the spindle type. I don’t know what exactly you call it, but it a an allen wrench type head and the entire piece goes through the BB to meet and screw into another female piece like it inside the BB, as if that didn’t confuse anybody. That’s the best tht I can explain it. I don’t think that the grommet can be replaced, so that means getting a new crank arm. If what you said about aluminum is right, which I am pretty sure that it is, then that’s what I’m going to do.
Thanks again guys
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Since you have to use an allen wrench rather than a regular socket wrench to get it out, it’s probably an ISIS bottom bracket rather than a square taper. Find yourself some ISIS cranks and go to town. Your parts should look something like this if so…
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Thanks man. That’s exactly it. I don’t know why I didn’t thin of going to FSA’s website first, stupid on my part. Thanks, this outlines exactly what I needed.
Thanks all of ya.
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One more thing that I want to ask. I found some RaceFace X-Type Deus Crankset (its the 07′ version). Can any you let know some feedback on this product. I know that Raceface puts out some good stuff but I would really like hear from somebody that has some experience and familiarity with them.
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Thanks. I think that I might stay away from those. Since that didn’t sound like what I wanted (all the reviews) could you tell me about the Raceface Evolve XC X-Type Crankset if there any difference. Here’s where I found it…
http://jensonusa.com/store/product/CR30 … et+08.aspx -
Thanks again. This all has been most helpful. I think that I have some decision making to do. I think that I might end up sticking with FSA after all. Just have to figure which one I need. It seems that everywhere I look, you just can’t get the crank arms themselves hardly. Everything always comes as a set. All I really need is the crank arm, but anyway…….
Thanks.
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Okay, I finally found the crankset that I want but I have forgotten what length crank arms I have. I looked at the specs for my bike but it doesn’t say. I also looked at what that line of crankset that previously had came in but, it came in either a 170mm or a 175mm. How can I tell which ones I have??? I am almost done ordering this thing but its the last time I’ll ask about it.
Thanks.
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not trying to be a jerk here, but did you try measuring?
EDIT: in case you threw away the originals, 175mm is pretty much the standard size.
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The size is quite often stamped on the crank arm. I just checked my FSAs and M170 is stamped right near the pedal insert. I have 4 different brands of cranks floating around my place and they are all mark somewhere with a number like 165, 170, or 175.
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"Jeremy_Green" wrote
not trying to be a jerk here, but did you try measuring?
EDIT: in case you threw away the originals, 175mm is pretty much the standard size.
Well, this might sound a little dumb, but…
I didn’t know if they are measured from end to end or from hole to hole. To be honest, in case you haven’t noticed I am not not very knowledgeable when it comes to cranks. I just learn as I go along. I apologize for any discrepancies.
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"cjm" wrote
The size is quite often stamped on the crank arm. I just checked my FSAs and M170 is stamped right near the pedal insert. I have 4 different brands of cranks floating around my place and they are all mark somewhere with a number like 165, 170, or 175.
Yeah, I’ll be sure to look for that. I didn’t notice anything before, but I will take a look again.
Ya’ll have been the greatest of help.
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They should measured from the axis of the bottom bracket to the axis of the pedal spindle. If you have the non-drive side crank arm, measure from the center of the "bolt hole" for the bottom bracket to the center of whole for the pedal insert.
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Okay I went with the Race Race Evolve DH X-TYPE crank set. I read about what you had said Mongoose and it seemed to mainly applied to the XC version rather than the DH one. At least that’s what I came to find. I also found out that it depends on how these BB’s are installed (not to say that it was something that you may have done with yours when installed). I think that this is the one that you called a great crank set in your book. It seems to be a good bang for the buck type to. Tell me, is it ironic to be using a AM/DH crank set for aggressive XC? Especially when I am 280 LBS. I mean when one comes off a jump or drop, doesn’t that like double or triple your weight? For me that’s more than a quarter ton!!!
For that I should be allowed to test new products for different manufactures, would anybody else agree?!?
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I’ll agree with that,,I’ll bet you were waiting for my reply huh?!hahahahaah
Especially when I am 280 LBS.What rear hub do you run with your bike spaz???I’m curious because I went through 5 stock pawl body’s before I upgraded to a ratchet style rear drive shell.
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In regards to the hubs I use exactly that style as well. I wish that I could tell you a brand name but don’t know what they are. I do know that what ever they are, they freakin awesome. Solid and true. They came with the bike and the specs just say "alloy disc – 32H" and that’s it. The rim came came pre-assembled and they are WTB SX-24.
I really hate to burst your bubble, but I really have already heard and read everything to convince me to get this crank set. But any input couldn’t hurt.
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Well about Race Face i have been using them for years and they work great. Now as to which one consider how your riding….I use the Deus on my XC 4" bike and the Atlas on my Trail bike.
The Deus is for XC riding its really light and you can place a bash guard for Trail riding but thats about it.
The Atlas is for Trail – All mountain riding a bit heavier but can take a hit great if your are going off the occasional drop 6 – 8′ i think it would be fine
The Diabolis is for Freeriding and DH. These are super tough and have a beefier BB.. Nuff said on these
There is also the Evolve which is a cheaper version and they come in XC and DH version.
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