-
Posts
-
-
Is this because of my weight being too far forward or too far back? could it be my fingers resting on the brake levers or using too much brake?
-
Pretty sure this happens to everybody. Get some fat Oury or ODI Rogue grips and some thick padded gloves and it helps a little.
-
"Hold on loosely! But don’t let goooooo,
if you cling to tightly,
you’re gonna, you’re gonna, lose controoollllllll!"
–38 SpecialI bet you’re simply hanging on to tight, try loosening your grip. Adjust your brakes so you can pull them with only one finger, that leaves the rest of your fingers on the bars wrapped around the grip, it’s easier to keep a loose hold that way.
-
"dgaddis" wrote
"Hold on loosely! But don’t let goooooo,
if you cling to tightly,
you’re gonna, you’re gonna, lose controoollllllll!"
–38 SpecialI bet you’re simply hanging on to tight, try loosening your grip. Adjust your brakes so you can pull them with only one finger, that leaves the rest of your fingers on the bars wrapped around the grip, it’s easier to keep a loose hold that way.
I used this song to explain the concept to a new rider just the other week!
-
I never hold on real tight i usually keep a loose grip like you say. just not sure why they get cramped. I have a felt q520 hardtail…do you get the same problems on a downhill bike?
-
"lovemountainbiking12" wrote
I never hold on real tight i usually keep a loose grip like you say. just not sure why they get cramped. I have a felt q520 hardtail…do you get the same problems on a downhill bike?
Just stay relaxed man, but of course riding a HT is no party anyways. It will always be a bit rougher on a HT in regards to hand cramps than a full squishy. A full squishy is a lot more smoother and much more forgiving if set-up properly. I normally never have to choose a line to ride, just bomb the hell out of it… 😄 😆 However, with a HT, most of the time you will have to choose a good line. I have been DH/FR shredding for years, and I even get stiff and cramping hands from time to time (but rare), but mainly on the big hit drops/jumps and super gnarly rock or root gardens. I fly with ODI Lock-On Rogue grips and they are awesome and help a lot. I highly recommend them by far, but if you have smaller hands, then they may not be your thing. Keep one finger on the rear brake lever at all times at least, and DO NOT white knuckle your grips like so many riders do… 😆 I also recommend keeping one finger on your front brake as well for front feathering while shredding DH or roller coaster type rides.
A trick over the years of shredding DH/FR and just plain out riding that I have learned, adapted and then overcame the scenario of hand cramps…..While riding, periodically just wiggle your fingers around while lightly gripping the grips. This keeps good blood circulation, and lets you know if you are white knuckling (gripping to hard or firmly), which is never really needed (gripping to hard or firmly that is…LOL). Learn your proper weight and body positioning/distribution in the cockpit of the bike while riding descents and ascents. Adjust your bike for proper fit for the riding you are doing, as this helps with what I just mentioned about weight and body positioning/distribution.
I have taught many riders the trip of a light grip which in the long run is more grippy and firmer than firmly gripping or over gripping (white knuckling). I can firm my grip or grip my grips hard (white knuckling) and have someone easily pull my hand off the grip, but when I grip them lightly and relaxed, they have a much harder time pulling my hands off the grips. Sounds strange, but it is very true. I have amazed seasoned riders with this old school trick, and you will never get cramped hands but very very rarely.
Anyways, good luck and I hope this helps a bit. Ride on!
-
Good advice so far. I would also recommend looking at the angle of your arms, wrists, hands, and finger(s) on brake levers when descending. It should be as straight as possible. Odd angles at the wrist/hand can cause fatigue.
-
"fleetwood" wrote
Good advice so far. I would also recommend looking at the angle of your arms, wrists, hands, and finger(s) on brake levers when descending. It should be as straight as possible. Odd angles at the wrist/hand can cause fatigue.
Excellent point. You should be able to get a finger on the brake lever without adjusting your wrist/hand angle. You shouldn’t have to move your hand at all to get a finger on the brake, just the finger should move.
-
Excellent points you two, and not sure why i did not mention that. Mind was elsewhere I guess… 😆
One other thing is to not keep your arms stiff (or straight) while riding in general, but especially when aggressive riding. Keep a least a little bend in the elbows, as this will give you more strength, better grip, and much less pain in general from hands to shoulders, shoulders to ribs, and neck to head. When you are stiff, especially in the arms, hands, hips and legs, you have no real comfortable control of the bike and it can get away from you much easier. With full squishes you need to learn the technique of loading and unloading your suspension (front and back) through many various types of terrain and disciplines of riding.
The key is to stay relaxed while riding so you will have much fun shredding instead of it feeling like a unneeded or painful workout…. 😄 This will keep you more focused on fun and give you more flexibility on the bike. Also, make sure you have the right size frame for your weight and height, your saddle and saddle post adjusted to the proper riding, and the stem height, angle and length set for you.
Again…..Have fun, as this is what it is all about…. 😄
-
great feedback guys….i think my position and seat is too high for when i come to a downhill section…since i don’t have a downhill bike i keep my seat high for the most power on climbs. ive heard of people putting their butt aft of the seat…seems like this would be a difficult riding position with no front grip and would suck if you slipped on the pedals
-
"lovemountainbiking12" wrote
great feedback guys….i think my position and seat is too high for when i come to a downhill section…since i don’t have a downhill bike i keep my seat high for the most power on climbs. ive heard of people putting their butt aft of the seat…seems like this would be a difficult riding position with no front grip and would suck if you slipped on the pedals
Get a dropper post: http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-ge … st-review/
-
Get a dropper post: http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-ge … st-review/[/quote]
can’t afoord a seat that costs half of what i paid for the bike lol
-
"lovemountainbiking12" wrote
Get a dropper post: http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-ge … st-review/
can’t afoord a seat that costs half of what i paid for the bike lol[/quote]
If you have a quick release seatpost collar, try manually dropping your seat for long, extended descents.
-
An issue that no one has addressed- how long have you been mtn biking this year & in general? It takes hand muscles to squeeze your brakes and they fatigue just like any other muscle after long, repeated use. So you have to build up & strengthen those muscles much the same as your quads & calves. If you just haven’t been doing a lot of serious downhilling your hands are likely just need to get in better shape. More biking will help that and/or one of those hand squeezer strengthening deals will help.
The other obvious question is what condition are your brake pads in? Are they working properly & not too worn? Once they wear down to a certain point you start to lose braking power plus you have to pull the lever closer to the grip for full force. So a new set of pads might be the ticket too.
Best of luck!
Chendo -
This is a problem that occurs regularly in off road motorcycle riders as well. Check the position of your wrists on the handlebars. If the bar is across the lower part of your hand with your wrists fully back, you are likely putting some pressure on your Carpal tunnel and what is known as the Palmar aponeurosis. Shift your hand forward a bit in rotation and your thumb will be more responsible for staying on the bar (wrist neutral). If your breaks are placed too far back for you to do this then adjust them a little to take this pressure off. As mentioned earlier padded gloves help as well. If there is numbness and tingling or pins and needles type feelings or it occurs at other times you may have more involved neural compression that may require treatment to relieve. Yes I am a medical professional and know just a little about these things. Good luck
-
i dunno. i get cramps/aches on extended shuttle runs.
anyway, lots of good advice. just don’t over think the loose hands part. hit a rut, rock garden or baby head and it can take your wheel out. keep it firm when the trail gets bumpy. but if you feel like your squeezing for dear life, well then you’re probably challenging yourself. cool. next time on the same run you’ll be a little more relaxed. one thing about the loose hands i think is that it will be an extension of the rest of your body. if you body is stiff (natural fear reflex) you won’t fare as well as if you’re loose and relaxed. the more you do a run, the more relaxed you’ll get and you’re skill level will increase.
brakes was a good point too. the faster and steeper you go you’ll feel more confident with some good brakes. although, the current brakes are all pretty darn good.
keep challenging yourself.
-
i have to use an alan wrench to raise or lower the seat…can;t believe thats the way it is when everything else is quick disconnect maybe they figured it would be more secure as for how long ive been mountain biking i just started this year and ride more than some people that have been doin it for years…i ride about 3 or 4 times a week i do not have a bike computer but im guessing ive rode over 300 miles this year. i asked a guy this question when i first started and he said i was just getting used to it.
-
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.