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Should I update my V-Brakes to Disc Brakes? If so, What would you suggest I get? For less than $100.
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The stopping power of disk brakes compared to cantilever brakes is night and day. I seriously doubt you will be able to do it for under $100 unless you find somebody practically giving away a used set on ebay or craigs list though. Check out http://www.pricepoint.com. They have some really good prices on some nice sets. Going to be over what you want to spend but should give you a good idea of what is out there for the money.
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Thanks guys. I really appreciate the help.
Happy Riding! 😎
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Jenson has them on sale right now for $45.99, which includes the rotor, caliper and pads.
So $91.98 for front and rear, plus a few bucks for new cables and maybe a mount adapter. With any luck, you can use your existing levers.
My old hard tail has v-brakes, and they work great: no complaints. My new full suspension bike has disc and the difference is amazing.
To be fair, mine are hydraulic, but you can’t knock the BB7’s, they are definitely top of the line for mech disc. I was all set to buy BB7’s myself when I built my bike, but I snagged a set of Formula Oro K24’s with rotors for a price I couldn’t pass up at the time.
Just please stay away from Hayes HFX-9’s if you go shopping around. 😉
(Or if you do buy the Hayes, get them with a bleed kit and learn how to do it on the trail) -
I have used Hayes brakes for many years. Having HFX-9’s Mags you name it…Presently using Stroker Ace’s and Stroker Grams / Trails, I find no problems. But with everything around, you need to maintain them. Cleaning and removing the pads on occasion, pumping up the brakes, then retracting all the way back it will eleviate most issues of soft or hanging up brakes. This goes with any brake.
Lately I have scene many super deals on Juicy’s, Strokers, and even some Formulas.
Cheers
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Haye’s makes a lot of decent brakes, I just think that the HFX-9 xc was not one of them.
They’re fine if you don’t hang your bike vertically or updside down, or use them a lot 😆
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I am not sure of that last comment of using them alot..However, I do agree on the hanging the bike upside down..But that may be the case with a few brakes on the market as well. Sometimes an air bubble can migrate it’s way into the brake line given enough time.
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"element22" wrote
I am not sure of that last comment of using them alot..However, I do agree on the hanging the bike upside down..But that may be the case with a few brakes on the market as well. Sometimes an air bubble can migrate it’s way into the brake line given enough time.
Let me be more specific:
One friend had them on a Santa Cruz Ultralight. After a rebuild and numerous bleeds they were still barely good for one weekend in Moab, and were fading by the end of Porcupine rim. **He has since replaced them, but not sure what he got.Another friend used them on a Yeti 575 for racing and he had to bleed them between races. **He has Avids now and loves them
To be fair, there may have been a really narrow part of the production run that was bad, but for me, I have a very low annoyance threshold and I witnessed enough first hand issues to be very wary.
As for storage, I hang my bike by the front wheel, so it’s vertical, with the front up. This has caused zero issues with my hydraulics.
Back to the original post, grab the BB7’s for you described requirements, and you will be immune to any hydraulics issues
😉
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The external adjuster knob is what really makes these a good setup.
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What I personally like is that you can independantly adjust either pad.
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Exactly.
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You can grab the Avid BB7’s on Jenson USA for $100.93 shipped, thats what i paid and i got the 185mm rotors!
is there anything BAD about me going up in size for the rotors?
oh and stay as far as possible away from promax mechnical disc brakes, thats what i am getting rid of…and boy do the suck the big one….
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Don’t forget to factor in the cost of new wheels, hubs, spokes, cassette and tires. Discs don’t run on the same type of rim.
Not all discs come with rotors. There are many specilaty rotors, light and artistic. -
"abegold" wrote
Don’t forget to factor in the cost of new wheels, hubs, spokes, cassette and tires. Discs don’t run on the same type of rim.
Not all discs come with rotors. There are many specilaty rotors, light and artistic.Even if he did need a new wheelset to get rotor mounts, why would that necessitate new tires and a cassette?
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"maddslacker" wrote
[quote="abegold":245lb751]Don’t forget to factor in the cost of new wheels, hubs, spokes, cassette and tires. Discs don’t run on the same type of rim.
Not all discs come with rotors. There are many specilaty rotors, light and artistic.Even if he did need a new wheelset to get rotor mounts, why would that necessitate new tires and a cassette?[/quote:245lb751]
yeh. certain wheels are only disc or only rim brake compatible. you wouldn’t necessarily need new spokes, and you should definitely be able to keep the same cassette and tires.
However, don’t forget that most forks are rim brake or disc brake specific!!!! There are definitely quite a few forks that have mounting options for both, but be sure to check if yours does! My fork, for instance, is only set up for disc brakes.
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