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So I finish my KHS XCT555 build, and take the bike out for its paces today. Rides like a champ until about 10 minutes into the ride, the left crankarm falls off. I reattach it, taking care to torque it down properly. About 10 minutes later, same thing. This goes on about 5 more times; I manage to limp it back to my truck and come home.
It’s a Shimano Deore crankset, and when I pull it apart, I see the splines on the left crankarm are stripped and flattened out. The right through-arm looks like it’s ok.
Now I gotta buy a new setup. Not happy. WTH did I do wrong?? I thought I installed the thing properly, but I guess I messed up. It almost seems like the right crankarm isn’t long enough- and the left arm was not able to suck up all the way like it should, hence the damage to the splines about 3/4 or the way through. Are there different lengths? I thought my Trek had the same BB width as this KHS.. I have no way to measure it. I note some of the replacement cranksets mention 170mm or 175mm…which one should I be using?
I must sound like an idiot, but this is all new to me, and this was my first build-it’s definitely a good learning experience.
Any recommendations for a replacement crank? I am on a budget, and can’t afford any more than $100. I see a Race Face Ride XC on Pricepoint for $90. Comes with the BB also, and is listed as 175mm. HEEEELP! 😮 -
I don’t know much about the RF ride xc, but i have the RF evolve DH and i have not had any problems with it. btw, the RF ride xc is $70 from jensonusa.com
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The 170 and 175 are the lengths of the crank arms. I would stick with the length you have if you have no issues with your pedal strokes. Google up crank length and you will find it is often just a user preference with some thinking it is a vital, crucial detail and others not noticing any differences. I just checked two of my mountain bikes I have in the house now, and the road bike, and they are all 175. I am 6’4", and some think taller means longer cranks. I am in the boat of not having a preference. It seems like larger bikes come with 175’s, though my sample size of three bikes is hardly statistically sound. Look at the inside of your cranks, near the bolt hole for the pedals, I bet you will see a 175 or 170 stamped in the crank arm.
There are two different BB widths, but I do not think the cranks are specific to either, they should fit no matter what the BB size. It would be the crankbolt lengths, not the cranks themselves, that would be the culprit if anything is specific to either BB size.
When you say splines on the left crankarm are stripped, are you talking about the bolt and its threads that goes through the crank into the BB, or the threads in the BB itself? If it is just the bolt, then that is a cheap fix. Bolts are sold separately. If it the threads within the BB, then you would likely need a new BB as well.
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Thanks for the help guys. The bolts are okay- it’s the inside area of the crank that appears worn and stripped.
I just am clueless as to what I did wrong- I made sure the BB (which is relatively new, BTW) was set properly, the right crank went in without a hitch, and then I bolted up the left arm- I am thinking I didn’t sink the arm in enough, but there was no play in the crank after I did this and tested it.
I am going to get a new BB to be safe, and I think I’m gonna go with the Race Face on Jenson.
I’ll try to post pics later… -
Hi Rich.
Please before you go and install the next crank.. Measure the BB shell on the frame…ON a bike like that you will expect to see either 68mm width or 73mm..Which ever it may be follow the instructions on the Race Face installation sheet as to where to add the spacers. If that is done it should not be a problem.
Race Face is a good choice.
Cheers
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I bet that’s what my problem was with this crank. The BB shell on the KHS may be a tad wider than the Trek’s.. Its almost like there wasn’t enough for the crank arm to grab onto when I put it on- and that’s why it was coming off so easy. I ordered the new crank- it should be here in a couple days. Hopefully I can ride this weekend without a hitch. Thanks for the replies, guys!
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So remember to set the spacers correctly when installing the new crank, and all would be good..
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"rich67" wrote
I bet that’s what my problem was with this crank. The BB shell on the KHS may be a tad wider than the Trek’s.. Its almost like there wasn’t enough for the crank arm to grab onto when I put it on- and that’s why it was coming off so easy. I ordered the new crank- it should be here in a couple days. Hopefully I can ride this weekend without a hitch. Thanks for the replies, guys!
what kind of crank did you end up getting…same shimano one??
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Nope, I went with a Race Face Ride XC-
Just an update for you guys- I totally fudged up on the BB size and install- I ended up having spacers on both sides of the BB cups, when the BB for the KHS was larger already than on the Trek….DOOOOHHH!
So, tonight I removed the spacer on the non-driveline side, and bolted up the left crank, and what do you know- it looks solid.
I am going to test ride it again tomorrow, and if it works well, I may send the Race Face back- after all the Deore is less than 3 months old.
But thanks for pointing me in the right direction-live and learn I guess- I though all BB’s on modern bikes were the same size. Yeah, I’m a moron. 😏 -
There are 4 sizes that I know off…
68/73mm (most XC – Light FR)
83mm (Most FR – DH)
100mm some DH -
Yep, the Fuel was a 68 and the KHS is a 73….
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