Converting to 1×10….

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    • #182646

      So after doing research, reading testimonials and working through the clutter of the world wide web I have finally assembled all my parts and pieces to change my bike over from 3×9 to 1×10. This will be Zeds 3rd drive train change… From 3×8 to 3×9 to now 1×10. The reason for this, is I have pretty much gotten to the point where I no longer peddle in anything by my middle chain ring. So in effort to lose a little weight, have less clutter and to minimize all the working parts I no longer use I have made the change.

      Gear

      This is everything I have assembled for the change over.  In this picture….

      Raceface Evolve NW 30t Crank

      42t Wolf Tooth

      10spd XT rear cog

      Sram X9 10spd shifter

      Sram X9 10spd rear derailleur (short cage) – I have read where riders have made this work, I may have needed a med. cage, if so I will have to send the one I have back and make the switch, but I went short cage to keep the chain as tight as possible and to help prevent chain slap.

      KMC 10 spd chain

      Aest Mechanical Brake levers

      New shifter/brake cables and brake pads as well… not that the brake pads have anything to do with the rest… but just part of maintenance while I am it.

      I’ll document how this works out for me and any pitfalls and blunders I happen across.

      If this is an old hat for you, I am all eyes and ears for what things I may need to be on the look out for. If this something you are interested in doing to your own ride… well then you will get to learn on my dime. 🙂

       

    • #182682

      Just converted my 3×9 2000 GT XCR LE to 1X11 XT and Race Face drive train.  I”l never go back to a front derailleur.  With the RF cinch setup I can swap out front rings (spider-less) in 5 minutes for the upcoming ride if needed.

      Less clutter

      Less weight

      No more worries about front derailleur shifting

       

    • #182698

      Riding buddy of mine built a 1×10 by 2.. meaning he built a 2×10 with one front ring for flatter riding and one for hilly riding, and never put a front derailleur on the bike. He switches by hand before the day’s ride if and when needed.

      • #182765

        That’s how mine is set up.  I live in FL which doesn’t require more than 3 or 4 gears (often only requires a single gear), but I can manually change when i travel to the Carolinas

    • #182709

      That is an interesting way of going about it..

      I ran into one snafu last night… My bottom bracket is listed as 68mm. I put a 68 mm shimano deore hollowtech on it 3 years ago, but it also required installing all 3 rubber bushings. So I ordered a 68/73 race face. Last night even after all 3 rubber bushings I still had a little slop in the crank. Not much, but just a little wiggle. It was just about as tight as I could get it… so I took it back apart and took one of the bushings from my other crank and added it to the non-chain side of the crank. It tightened it up and everything looks like it is going to line-up OK. I will know when I slap the chain on it.

      It is going to be tight with the short cage and 42 tooth.. not much room for play there, but it looks like it is going to clear…

    • #182784

      Mlombar,, have you ridden Graham  swamp trail. More elevation change there than most other places in Fl. I see you only show hanna on your trail list.  Also have you ever been over to Alafia State Park,  great riding over there.

      • #182841

        Alvin, no I haven’t I’ll have to check those out.  I’ve only been riding for a little over a month, the bike I bought used was already set up as a 1×10 and it’s been great for hanna.  Thanks for the recommendations, I’m excited to hit some new spots!  Heading up to White Water Center in CHA next weekend (I’ve ridden there once before with my brother-in-law) and I’m interested in seeing how the set up works with the elevation there.

    • #182809

      Well… everything has installed and fit like I think it should, except for one thing. The cage of my rear derailleur rubs the 42 tooth ring and even gets hung up on it when it is on the 36. It maybe I made a mistake in the purchase of derailleur. The cage on it covers both sides of the pulley, the 9spd Shimano Deore I just took off has a cage that covers the outer wheel of the of the pulley’s but the backside is open at the top. If the Sram was made the same way I don’t think I would have an issue.  May need to look into changing out derailleurs…

      Thoughts….

       

    • #182821

      Sounds like you need to adjust the B-tension screw. Winding that in will increase the distance between the top pulley and the cassette.

    • #182842

      Thanks Aaron, usually once I get all my components on the bike i will take it to a bike shop and let them fine tune it. I spent part of the afternoon watching vid and printing out derailleur adjustment directions from Srams site… I’ll give it another go.

    • #182850

      mlombar, if you haven’t already check out sorbajax on facebook. Also you might be interested, Champion Cycles  on beach does a superbowl sunday ride at Santos.

    • #182967

      After adjusting and readjusting… taking the wolf tooth off and then putting it back on I was still stumped as to why I wasn’t getting the clearance all the others said they were getting with the same setup. So I stood back about 4 to 5 feet and looked right down the drive train and noticed the derailleur was just slightly askew. I couldn’t see it when I was right on top of it. Then the bulb went off in the ole rattle trap. The rear derailleur hanger was slightly bent. I had laid the back down pretty hard back before Christmas and slammed it on that side. The bike worked fine after getting my butt off the ground, so I didn’t stop to question the hanger or anything else but what little pride I had left. But when making this change the tolerances become much less. Without a tool to true a derailleur hanger I wrapped a rag around it and tightened a pipe wrench on it. Tweaked it just a hair and placed the derailleur back on the hanger. A few adjustments and it shifts smooth and has proper spacing. Now the hanger is probably compromised and I will need to order another one…. but I finally have a 1×10 with a 42t wolf tooth and a functional sram short cage rear derailleur.

    • #182970

      Nice work! When you order a new derailleur hanger, go ahead and get two. Put the extra one in your hydration pack just in case you break your hanger out on the trail.

    • #183236

      Got it out this past weekend and put it through the paces. I loved how it rode and shifted. It rides so much quieter as I have now eliminated nearly all chain slap. The NW chain ring up front seems to have taken out some of the slop and tighten the action as well.  The range appears to be more than enough for the way I ride. The 42 tooth ring seems to be enough of a climbing gear. I could have probably gone 32 on the NW Raceface but the 30 pedals just fine. I think I am going to enjoy this switch over.

      Zeds Dead 1x10

      Close-up 1x10

    • #183815

      I’m getting everything ready to go from 3×9 to a 1×11 on my Trek XCaliber.  Using Shimano 42-11 cassette with XT derailer and shifter, and going to use the absolute black oval 32t chainring up front.  It will be my first major upgrade on my bike (not counting pedals).  But after 2 seasons on it stock, I rarely use the granny gear either, and I just think the 1x setups look sooooo much better.  I’ve been wanting to try one of those oval chainrings for a while now, so just seems like a good time to do it, as I probably have another month before the weather gets to where I can ride more regularly.

    • #183914

      I tell ya what, I have loved this conversion. My bike has seen plenty of transformations over the years… I thought the biggest jump was from rim brakes to disc. But this move has been the biggest since. The SRAM shifters are very crisp and precise. I was running Shimano Deore’s prior. The shorter chain has made for a quieter ride. The 42 tooth Wolf Tooth doesn’t get used every time out, but it does the job when needed. You will like the switch over. Let me know what you think of the oval chain ring.

    • #184004

      Before I bought my Pivot Mach 6 I had a Knolly Chilcotin, I upgraded it to a 1×10 with an ethrirteen 42t expander and an ethirteen 30t chainring. Best upgrade besides buying a bike with 1×11 drivetrain.

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